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GUIDE 



V ALES $ MONMOUTHSHIRE 

CONTAINING 

i OBSERVATIONS ON THE MODE OF TRAVELLING, 

^lans of Farious '©ours, 



SKETCHES OF THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, NOTICES 
OF HISTORICAL EVENTS, 

A DESCRIPTION OF EVERY REMARKABLE PLACE, 



A MINUTE ACCOUNT OF THE WYE: 

THE WHOLE FORMING 

COMPREHENSIVE VIEW OF THE PICTURESQUE BEAUTY AND THE 
FINE REMAINS OF ANTIQUITY IN THAT INTERESTING 
PORTION OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE. 

ILLUSTRATED WITH 

A MAP OF WALES, AND VIEWS OF THE MEXAI AND 
CONWAY- JCPJDGES. ■■ . •• , . 



LONDON: , >,.-.,- '. , 
PRINTED FOR SAMUEL LEIGH, 18, STRAND. 



M.DCCC.XXXI. 
PRICE NINE SHILLINGS. 



5661 



'02, 



LONDON: 
J. JIOYES, took's court, chancery lake. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



To descant on the peculiar charms of Wales would be super- 
fluous, since they have been long and universally acknow- 
ledged. The Principality has frequently been called Switzer- 
land in miniature, as it bears a very strong resemblance to that 
romantic country, in the beauty of its fertile vales, and the rude 
character of its lofty mountains, wild rocks, rapid torrents, and 
numerous cascades. To the lover of the picturesque it is an 
exhaustless store of pleasure ; nor is it without interest to the 
antiquary, who at every step may recognise, in the decaying 
ruins of ecclesiastical and castellated architecture, the traces of 
former grandeur. Both portions of the Principality are inte- 
resting; but North Wales is particularly distinguished for the 
grandeur of its mountain scenery, and South Wales for its 
ruined castles and busy manufactories. The vales of each are 
not exceeded in beauty by those of any country in the world. 

Many tours through Wales have been published from time 
to time, but their descriptions have generally been confined to 
some one particular route, the precise line of which the traveller 
was obliged to follow, or find himself destitute of information. 
This inconvenience has been obviated in the present volume, 
which is so arranged as to guide the tourist whatever direction 
he may wish to pursue. Some persons, however, who are about 
to visit Wales for the first time, will be anxious to know which 
routes^are the most interesting ; and, for their assistance, Plans 
of several Tours are introduced, and the most remarkable ob- 
jects pointed out. The traveller who follows the routes laid 
down in Tours I. and IV. will obtain a good idea of the pro- 
minent features of the country. By adopting this method, 
unnecessary repetitions and perplexing references have been 
avoided ; and the Editor trusts that he has combined advantages 
not to be found in preceding works. 

In describing the various places, the Editor has aimed at 
brevity, and has endeavoured to shun the high-flown encomiums 



IV 



which so frequently raise expectations never to be gratified. 
The beauty of scenery can only be adequately appreciated by 
the eye. The principal object has been to point out what is 
worthy of notice, leaving the spectator to form his own opinion 
of it. Tales of legendary lore or poetic fiction have almost 
invariably been excluded, as they would have added consider- 
ably to the size, without increasing the utility, of the volume. 
Many descriptive passages have been introduced from preceding 
writers, and these are generally acknowledged ; though the 
Editor, during a recent tour through the Principality, found it 
necessary to make considerable alteration, in order to adapt 
them to present circumstances. 

At all the chief Inns throughout Wales the Tourist will 
find English spoken ; but if he propose to deviate from the 
high roads, and to explore the recesses of the mountains, it is 
probable that he will occasionally experience some difficulty in 
making himself understood. In this emergency he will find a 
little work, lately published by Mr. Roberts, under the title of 
the " Welsh Interpreter," a valuable companion. It contains 
familiar phrases in English and Welsh, with the mode of 
pronunciation. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

Mode of Travelling 1 

Inns 4 

Expense of Living 5 

Stage Coaches 5 

Steam Boats 6 

Remarks on Wales and the Welsh 6 

History 9 

General Description 12 

Coracles 13 

Salmon Spearing 14 

Marriages, &c 14 

Funerals 1 G 

Planting Graves 17 

All Saints' Eve 17 

Welsh Games 18 

Seven Wonders of Wales 19 

Jumpers 19 

Glossary 21 

TOURS IN WALES. 

I. Plan of a Tour in North Wales 22 

II. Another Plan of a Tour in North Wales 28 

III. Tour in North Wales from Liverpool 29 



VI CONTENTS. 

Page 

IV. Plan of a Tour in South Wales 31 

V. Another Plan of a Tour in South Wales 37 

VI. Another Plan of a Tour in South Wales 38 

VII. Another Plan of a Tour in South Wales 39 

VIII. Plan of a Tour in South and North Wales 39 

%* The Roads which are coloured on the Map are those pointed out in the 
preceding Tours. 

Topographical Description 41 

Description of the Wye 334 

Index = 347 



GUIDE 



WALES 



MONMOUTHSHIRE. 



MODE OF TRAVELLING. 

The roads of Wales have been so much improved within a 
few years, that in the greater part of the Principality the 
tourist may freely indulge his own inclination as to the mode 
in which he will pursue his journey, whether in a carriage, on 
horseback, or on foot. The great roads from Shrewsbury and 
Chester to Holyhead are certainly equal, if not superior, to any 
in England, and afford fine specimens of the combination of 
the beauties of nature with the works of art. The lines of 
road from Bristol to Milford, and from Gloucester to Caer- 
marthen, are also excellent. 

" To be able," say the Committee of the House of Com- 
mons, " to travel a distance of eighty-three miles, namely, 
from the bridge at Chirk to Holyhead, through the most 
mountainous district of the United Kingdom, along a road 
not made as roads usually are, but actually built over all varieties 
of rugged surface, uniform in shape, perfect as to its smoothness 
and solidity, free from a single inconvenient inclination, and, in 
its progress, passing over the great chasm of the Menai Strait, 



I MODE OF TRAVELLING. 

is to do that which cannot be done even in those countries 
where the most profuse expenditure on roads has been directed 
by the greatest talents and enterprise." 

Post-chaises and horses may be obtained at all the principal 
towns, and at most of them cars, capable of conveying three or 
four persons, are kept. The price of posting is much the same 
as in England, a chaise and pair being usually charged Is. 6d. 
per mile, and a car and horse Is. per mile. The innkeepers, 
as in other parts of the kingdom, always charge any fraction 
of a mile as a whole mile ; and the post-boys expect about 3d. 
a mile. 

Those who are fond of riding on horseback may make the 
Tour of Wales very pleasantly in this manner, and avoid the 
delays and fatigues incident to other plans of journeying. 
Their best mode will be to proceed to Wales by the regular 
stages, and then buy a Welsh pony, which may be purchased 
at about six guineas and upwards. The surefootedness and cau- 
tion exhibited by little Welsh ponies can scarcely be imagined, 
except by those who have witnessed them mounting acclivities 
and descending steeps, amidst fragments of rocks and other 
obstructions that appeared to render the mountain paths im- 
passable. A pair of saddle-bags will contain the tourist's tra- 
velling apparatus. Those who journey on horseback must be 
cautious in passing fords after heavy rains, as the stream fre- 
quently swells suddenly to a great height, and renders the 
attempt very dangerous. 

Many persons recommend walking ; but this method can 
only be pursued with pleasure by male parties, who have health 
and strength, who are accustomed to the exercise, and who have 
an unlimited command of time. It certainly is the only mode in 
which every object can be visited, and a thorough acquaintance 
with the country obtained. " Apologies for walking," says the 
Rev. Mr. Freeman, in his " Sketches in Wales," " are not now 
needed. Reasoning people are agreed that there is neither 
disgrace nor impropriety in using one's limbs. I have wan- 
dered a good deal in my life, and have travelled in various 
ways, but I certainly prefer walking when in an interesting 



MODE OF TRAVELLING. 3 

country. A man may well be excused if he hurries over a 
district which he already sufficiently knows, or whose features 
are disagreeable; but the only way he has to make himself 
well acquainted with a country, is by passing through it lei- 
surely and on foot. I want no more proof of this than I have 
had. I have often travelled in Wales, and elsewhere, with all 
the supposed convenience (but real cares and encumbrances) 
of horses, carriages, and baggage; and I have uniformly found, 
that my quantity of information was exactly in an inverse ratio 
to the pretence and rapidity of my progress." 

The pedestrian should provide himself with strong, pliant, 
and easy shoes, with short light gaiters, to keep out the dust. 
These are much better adapted for continued walking than 
boots or thin shoes. Blisters may be avoided by wearing fine 
soft flannel, or woollen socks, next to the skin, and by washing 
the feet previous to going to bed. 

A change of linen, and the few articles necessary to per- 
sonal comfort, may be stowed in a knapsack, or case, made of 
brown dressed calf-skin, such as is used by saddlers, about 
twelve inches long and seven wide, lined with canvass, and 
having a flap and button. This should be made to fit between 
the shoulders, and attached to them by leather or list braces : 
or these articles may be put into a neat leathern bag, and car- 
ried in the same way as a shooting-bag, suspended under the 
left arm by a strap, crossing the right shoulder. If two 
persons travel together, they will find it a good plan to have 
the case, or bag, made large enough for the articles of both, 
and to carry it alternately. Some pedestrian tourists have 
worn strong shooting jackets, with double pockets, for con- 
taining their luggage ; but they have generally found this ar- 
rangement not so pleasant as the preceding. 

If the pedestrian proposes to keep on the high roads, where 
stages travel, he may pack his luggage in a trunk, or travelling- 
bag, and send it from place to place by the coach : though the 
advice once given by an old to a young traveller, " Never lose 
sight of your luggage," is not altogether unworthy of notice. 

Those persons who intend walking through Wales should 



4 INNS. 

arrange their tour so as to finish each day's excursion in some 
town, where they will generally be able to obtain good accom- 
modation. The villages are seldom comfortable resting-places. 
If they propose to visit the various waterfalls and ascend 
mountains, they must recollect that the way is generally 
rugged and wet, and provide themselves with strong shoes. 
In the arduous ascents of Plinlimmon, Cader Idris, Snowdon, 
and other lofty mountains, some refreshment should be taken. 
The guides generally recommend spirits to be carried up, as an 
antidote against the effects of a raw and chilly atmosphere ; 
but the use of these is rather dangerous, a very small quantity 
of them in these ethereal regions being sufficient to intoxicate. 
A bottle of milk and water, with a very small portion of 
brandy in it, will be found much more refreshing and agreeable 
than undiluted spirits. A pocket compass will be necessary, 
if the tourist intend traversing the mountains and penetrating 
the recesses of the country without a guide. 

INNS. 

The inns are generally clean and comfortable, and some of 
them, such as the Penrhyn Arms, at Bangor, and the inn at 
Capel Curig, splendid. In most of the principal inns 
throughout Wales, harpers sit in the hall, and play a variety 
of national airs, for the entertainment of the visiters. Many of 
them also act as guides to the vicinity, 

The waiters are usually females ; " a circumstance," says 
Mr. Warner, " which immediately puts the traveller in a good 
humour with all that he meets with at a Welsh inn. Exclusive 
of the pleasure one naturally feels from the presence of female 
beauty, there is also a minute attention and kindness in the 
manners of women, which give weight to the most trivial 
offices they perform for one, and add the force of an obligation 
even to a common act of servitude.' 7 

Wales has been famous from time immemorial for the ex- 
cellence of its ale, here called cwrw. It is made from barley, 
but the grain is dried in a peculiar way, which gives it rather 
a smoky taste, and renders it glutinous, heady, and soporific. 



EXPENSE OF LIVING. — STAGE COACHES. 



EXPENSE OF LIVING. 

The expense of living in Wales is moderate ; and families 
wishing for retirement would find this portion of the kingdom 
a desirable residence. The following statement of the price of 
provisions in Pembrokeshire was recently given in a respect- 
able periodical work : — 

Prime beef, mutton (perhaps the finest in the world), veal, 
from 4c?. to 6c?. per lb.; live pork, 2c?. per lb. ; fowls, Is. 8d. 
per pair; turkey, 4s.; goose, 2s. 6d.; eggs, twenty-four for Is.; 
butter, lOd. per lb.; flour, 3\d. per lb.; codfish, 2s. 6d. each; 
fresh salmon, 4c?. per lb.; oysters, 10c?. per 100; soles, 
whitings, lobsters, &c. in proportion; grocery, at the London 
prices. 

Draught ale, Is. per gallon; Dublin porter, for bottling, at 
3\d. per bottle ; Irish malt whisky, 22 overproof, duty in- 
cluded, 14s. per gallon; wine, about the same price as in 
England, but may be imported direct to the spot in vessels 
belonging to the port of Milford, consequently the gain is in 
quality. 

Oak, fir, and other wood, in choppings, clumps, &c. sold 
at the Royal Dock Yard, Pembroke, once a month; coals, 
1/. 4s. per chaldron. Rent, remarkably cheap: genteel re- 
sidences may be had in Milford, at from 14/. to 20/. per 
annum, containing dining, drawing, and breakfast- rooms, 
seven or eight bed-rooms, garden, kitchen, and stabling. The 
poor-rates are very low. There are several schools in the 
neighbourhood : good music master, at 3s. per lesson ; 
dancing master, 2s. per lesson. The climate, about 20° milder 
than in any part of England. 

STAGE COACHES. 

The Principality is not so well furnished with these useful 
vehicles as other parts of the kingdom; and the traveller who 
wishes to pursue his journey by their means must frequently 
lose time in waiting for the period of their departure, as on 
many roads they only go once or twice a week. Of course, 



6 STEAM-BOATS. REMARKS ON WALES. 

they travel more frequently during the summer than the 
winter. 

On the great Irish road, however, from Shrewsbury to 
Holyhead, there are stages several times in the day, passing 
through Llangollen, Corwen, and Bangor ; and there are also 
two stages daily from Chester to Holyhead, passing through 
Holywell, Abergeley, Conway, and Bangor. 

From Bristol, likewise, there is a coach daily to Milford, 
passing through CaerdifF, Swansea, Caermarthen, and Haver- 
fordwest ; and another daily from Gloucester to Caermarthen, 
passing through Ross, Monmouth, Abergavenny, Brecon, Llan- 
dovery, and Llandilo Vawr. 

On most of the other roads throughout Wales, the stages 
travel less frequently. 

STEAM-BOATS. 

The facilities afforded for the conveyance of passengers, by 
the employment of steam-vessels, has tended greatly to in- 
crease the number of travellers into Wales during the last few 
years. In the summer, there is one daily from Liverpool to 
Bangor, which at once introduces the tourist into the midst of 
the beautiful scenery of North Wales ; and there are steam- 
vessels also from Bristol to Chepstow daily, to Newport daily, 
to Swansea two or three times a week, and to Tenby once a 
week. (See the descriptions of these places in the succeeding 
part of the work.) 

REMARKS ON WALES* 

" I never entered Wales in my life without a feeling of 
reverence for the soil on which I trod, or rather, should I say, 
for that ancient race, and those heroic deeds, which have con- 
secrated their soil in my imagination. Not only is it the 
majesty of nature in this country, whose charm is spread 
around one ; but it is man, the spirit of freedom, the struggle 
for country, for home, which warms, which animates the heart, 

* From Rev. G. J. Freeman's « Sketches in Wales." 



REMARKS ON WALES. 7 

and excites the most thrilling sensations. If we admire the 
heroism of the Grecian commonwealth in defending their 
independence against the despot of Persia, or other tyrants, 
we may gather matter for the like wonder, for similar enthu- 
siasm, nearer home, in the history of the ancient Britons, 
whose claim to renown is founded on grounds that are 
equally indisputable. They contended for their own insti- 
tutions for nine hundred years; and the remembrance of this 
struggle for liberty is dearly cherished among all their ranks to 
the present hour. Well may they cherish it! It is unex- 
ampled in the history of any people ! Nor is this the boast of 
a nation altogether rude and barbarous. The Welch were 
never so. There is reason to believe that the Britons flou- 
rished as a nation before the Romans visited the island. The 
records of their early times are at least as remarkable and as 
mysterious, though not so costly, as those which distinguish 
Egypt. And however abject their condition might be during 
the times of Roman or of Saxon, of Danish or of Norman 
aggression, yet their national character always was respect- 
able; and they continue to the present hour conspicuous for 
their honesty, their courtesy, their hospitality, their devotion, 
and their general freedom from crime. 

" The Welch, united as they have been by adversity, con- 
tinue to be faithful and attached to each other in an eminent 
degree. This does not hinder their shewing rare and un- 
sought-for kindness to strangers. Whatever may have been 
reported of them by superficial observers, I am confident that 
they are violent only to the violent, but gentle and obliging to 
persons of moderation and good sense, and will perform la- 
borious services for trifling reward. They are, indeed, capable 
of the most generous actions ; and sometimes discover a trust 
and candour bordering on rashness and credulity. I do not 
say this without experience, having thrown myself among the 
people at various times, and seen them in their natural state. 
Their virtues, however, are seldom to be found on the great 
Irish roads, or at the watering places, where they have ac- 
quired mercenary ideas from the English, and have been 



8 REMARKS ON WALES. 

taught to make a harvest of their summer company. Though 
living under the government of the English, they are very 
cautious in admitting English habits, and exceedingly shy of 
all that comes from their conquerors. This is the consequence 
of their national prejudice, which, indeed, is not to be won- 
dered at. English settlers ofcen meet with great obstacles and 
vexations among them; but this is no more than what fre- 
quently happens in England itself, where provincial jealousies 
are often to be met with; but they make every distinction 
between a settler and a visiter: the latter will, at any rate, 
experience the most hospitable attention, unless he forfeit his 
claim to it by affecting to despise their poverty, or depreciate 
their reputation. 

" North Wales is the most truly Welch. This was the 
superior country formerly. South Wales and Powys, the 
intermediate state, were tributary to it. To an English eye, 
South Wales is the most eligible and improvable country; and 
here, accordingly, English arts have made the most progress. 
Pembrokeshire has been called ' Little England beyond 
Wales.' The inhabitants of that country are descendants of a 
colony of Flemings, driven by inundation from their own soil, 
in the times of Henry the First. The Welch regard them as an 
inferior race. The commerce of South Wales is by far the most 
considerable : it has fertile vales, numerous towns and villages, 
collieries and iron factories of the most extensive description, 
and seats of rich gentlemen, either indigenous or alien, and is 
altogether the most Anglicised country. The Welch, in their 
true and original character, are now only to be found in the 
retreats of their highest mountains, where many little societies 
live, and have lived for centuries, in total seclusion from the 
bustle, and in almost total ignorance of the arts of mankind, 
and in the silent and undisturbed enjoyment of their beloved 
prejudices and their old national habits. 

" The Welch are not a tall race, but they are generally of a 
robust form, and of a healthy constitution. They have usually 
an open and rounded countenance, with dark gray eyes, and 
sometimes light hair. I cannot agree in the eulogy which 



HISTORY. 9 

some writers have bestowed on the beauty of the females. A 
very fine and sensible countenance, lighted up by sparkling 
dark eyes, may sometimes be seen, with great cleanliness of 
complexion ; but I think the masse of Welch women are 
plain : their forms are by no means advantageously displayed : 
they are concealed by an uncouth dress, which has endured 
among them for ages, namely, the bed-gown with sleeves, the 
broad handkerchief over the shoulders, the mob cap and 
handkerchief round the head, or the round beaver hat alone. 
This last, with the natural hair in ringlets, is exceedingly 
becoming. The men's dress is not singular, except that by 
some their own country flannels are worn. They live very 
abstemiously : potatoes and sour milk, bacon and oat por- 
ridge, a dark heavy bread or cake, with various admixtures of 
vegetable and farinaceous substances, compose the usual food 
of the people. They seldom drink malt liquor, except at 
weddings, funerals, and fairs; on all which occasions they 
are inclined to excess. In South Wales, cider is a common 
beverage ; but in the fields, during harvest, they prefer drinking 
sour milk, or butter-milk, to any thing. Provisions are, for 
the most part, much cheaper than in England, except in the 
neighbourhood of places of public resort, such as Aberystwith, 
or in those parts of the country which feel the influence of the 
great towns of Liverpool and Bristol." 

HISTORY* 

" The first certain accounts that we collect of the history 
of W, a les are on the invasion of the Romans, when it appears 
to have been divided into three principalities ; the Silures, 
the Ordovices, and the Dimitae. The Silures possessed all 
that tract of country bounded by the Severn, the Tame, and 
the Towey ; which, comprehending the counties of Mon- 
mouth, Glamorgan, Brecknock, Radnor, Hereford, and part of 
Gloucester, Worcester, and Caermarthenshires, comprised the 
greater part of South Wales. The Dimitae inhabited that part 

* From Mr. Barber's Tour. 
B 2 



10 HISTORY. 

of South Wales westward of the Towey; and the Ordovices, 
North Wales, including Anglesea. 

' The Romans having subdued Britannia Prima, i. e. the 
southern part of England, advanced to the conquest of Wales, 
by them denominated Britannia Secunda : in this, however, 
they met with an unlooked-for opposition ; the inhabitants 
were vigorous and brave; and the country, wildly piled to- 
gether with mountains, forests, and morasses, presented an 
aggregation of difficulties that would have discouraged a 
people less ardent in their enterprises ; nor did they succeed, 
until after a long warfare and a severe loss. The Silures and 
Dimitas fell under the yoke in the reign of Vespasian, when 
they were vanquished by Julius Frontinus. The Ordovices 
were not finally subdued until the time of his successor, 
Agricola, who, according to Tacitus, exterminated the whole 
nation. 

" The Romans retained possession of this country until 
a.d. 408, when they withdrew their legions, and the most 
warlike of the British youth, for the defence of their central 
dominions. The inroads of the Scots and Picts, which im- 
mediately followed, do not appear to have materially affected 
the Welsh ; nor did the Saxons, though at constant war with 
them for several centuries, acquire any settled dominion in the 
country : yet they more than once partially overran Wales, 
obliging it to pay tribute; and in the reign of Edward the 
Confessor, Harold, at the head of a great army, entering 
Wales, defeated Prince Griffith, sovereign of North Wales, 
and, establishing himself in Gwent* (Monmouthshire), began 
a palace at Portswit, which was, however, destroyed by Griffith 
before its completion. 

" From the departure of the Romans, in 408, to the inroads 
of the Anglo-Norman chieftains in the eleventh and twelfth 
centuries, Wales was divided into numerous petty sovereignties 
or lordships, of varying name and extent, but tributary to an 



* The Saxons at this period are supposed to have occupied Monmouth, 
Chepstow, Caerwent, and Caerleon. 



HISTORY. 11 

imperial prince; though sometimes that dignity was split into 
two or three branches. These chiefs were usually at war with 
each other, or with their princes, who seldom obtained tribute 
when their means of enforcing it was questionable. 

" The Anglo-Norman dominion in Wales was brought 
about in a manner wholly different from former conquests. 
William the First and his successors, finding sufficient em- 
ployment in securing their English possessions, invited their 
chiefs, holding lands in the neighbourhood of Wales, to make 
incursions against the Welsh lords, upon their separate in- 
terests. The Norman leaders thereupon, by creating feuds 
among the native powers, siding with one or the other party, 
and breaking with them on convenient opportunities, contrived 
to fix themselves in various parts of Wales; whence their 
conquests extending, by degrees overspread the greater part 
of the country. The lands thus obtained became the property 
of the conquerors, who, under the title of lords marchers, were 
allowed to exercise an uncontrolled jurisdiction within their 
demesnes : but power acquired on such principles could only 
be retained by force ; every petty despot secured himself in a 
fortress, and hence arose the extraordinary number of castles 
with which Wales is crowded, amounting, according to a 
native author,* to 143. The Welsh princes still held a con- 
siderable tract of country, frequently overthrew the intruders, 
and even carried their arms into England ; but in the defeat of 
the brave Llewelyn, by Edward the First, Wales lost every 
remnant of its independence, and became definitively united 
to the crown of England. 

" In the reign of Henry the Eighth, Wales was divided 
into twelve shires, and Monmouthshire was included among 
the English counties ; the feudal despotism of the lords 
marchers was then abolished ; and Wales, participating in the 
equal shelter of English jurisprudence, has proved itself as 
zealous in defending the common interests of the -empire, as 
it was formerly conspicuous in struggling for its particular 
freedom." 

* Mr. Pennant. 



12 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

Wales is bounded on the north and west by the Irish Sea ; 
on the east by Cheshire, Shropshire, Herefordshire, and Mon- 
mouthshire ; on the south by the Bristol Channel. Its length, 
from north to south, is about 150 miles, and its breadth varies 
from 40 to 80 miles, comprehending an area of 4,752,000 
acres. Of these, 890,570 acres are cultivated lands and 
gardens; 2,226,430, meadows and pasturages ; 530,000, lands 
susceptible of cultivation; and 1,105,000, uncultivated lands, 
incapable of cultivation. The population amounts to about 
750,000. 

Wales is divided into North and South, containing twelve 
counties. North Wales contains the counties of Anglesea, 
Caernarvon, Denbigh, Flint, Merioneth, and Montgomery ; 
and South Wales, the counties of Brecknock, Caermarthen, 
Cardigan, Glamorgan, Pembroke, and Radnor. 

The agricultural produce of Wales consists chiefly of cattle, 
which are generally small ; sheep, famous for the flavour of* 
the meat; and butter. Goats were formerly very numerous, 
but are now only to be met with in North Wales; and even 
there are rapidly disappearing, because, though not without 
use to the poor, they are destructive to plantations and agri- 
culture. Those which do exist are private property; none, as 
in former times, running entirely wild. The rivers abound 
with salmon, trout, &c, and afford abundant amusement to 
the angler. 

The chief mineral productions are lead, copper, iron, and 
slates. The manufactures are principally confined to flannels, 
stocks, and gloves. There are also extensive iron, tin, and 
copper works in South Wales. 

The principal rivers are the Dee, the Wye, the Usk, the 
Conwy, the Clwyd, the Teivy, the Dovey, the Towey, the 
Neath, and the Taff. South Wales is also intersected by the 
Aberdare, Brecon, Swansea, and Neath canals ; and a part of 
North Wales by the Montgomery and Ellesmere canals. 

The cottages, in most parts of the Principality, are white- 



CORACLES. 13 

washed, which gives them a very cleanly appearance. The 
process is repeated every year, if not oftener ; and so partial is 
the Welshman to white lime, that no portion within reach, 
outside of the house, escapes his brush ; the pigstye, the 
palings, and sometimes the roof, all undergo the same opera- 
tion. The interior of the cottages does not, however, always 
exhibit a corresponding cleanliness. This custom is particu- 
larly observable in Glamorganshire. 

The sledge is the common farming carriage in Wales. This 
is a most simple contrivance, consisting of two rude poles, 
between which the horse is placed ; their ends trail on the 
ground, towards which extremity there are two or three cross 
bars, and from these rise a few upright sticks, completing 
the carriage. This vehicle is used for the conveyance of hay, 
straw, corn, &c. 

CORACLES. 

The fishermen of the Teivy and of many other rivers in 
South Wales make use of a singular kind of boats, called 
coracles, from the coria, or skins, with which they were 
originally covered. These vessels are constructed of willow 
twigs, in the manner of basket-work, and covered with a raw 
hide or coarse canvass, with a thick coating of pitch, to prevent 
leakage. They are generally about five feet and a half long, and 
four broad : in shape they resemble the section of a walnut shell, 
one end being rounded at the corners, and the other nearly 
pointed. They are intended to carry only one man, for whom 
there is a seat just above the centre, towards the broad end, and 
are made sufficiently light to be carried on the owner's back 
when he is going to or returning from his daily employment, or 
when he comes to rocky descents or falls in the river on which 
he is fishing. The dexterity with which the fisherman manages 
this apparently awkward vessel, and contrives to keep his just 
balance, is truly astonishing. The instrument with -which he 
makes his way is a paddle, one end of which rests upon his 
shoulder, and the other is employed by his right hand in 
making a stroke alternately on each side. The left hand 



14 SALMON SPEARING. MARRIAGES, &C. 

conducts the net, and the line attached to it is held between 
the teeth. Two coracles usually go together, in order to assist 
each other in fishing. When not employed in fishing, they are 
placed at the doors of the fishermen's houses, and there is 
scarcely a cottage on the banks of the Teivy which is not 
furnished with one. 

These vessels are now only applied to the purpose of 
fishing; but they were used by the ancient Britons as the 
means of intercourse between the opposite banks of rivers : and 
Pliny, in his account of Britain, speaks of a six days' naviga- 
tion in the open sea with these coracles. Caesar also made 
use of them in his Spanish expedition against Pompey, and 
ascribes their origin to the Britons. 

SALMON SPEARING* 

" The custom of killing salmon by spearing in this country 
is as curious as that of fishing in coracles. When the fish come 
up the river to spawn, they are watched by the country people, 
as they turn up the sand and gravel in the shallow places with 
their snouts. When they are thus known to have taken their 
station in any particular part, the fishermen come with torches 
in the night to the water's edge. The light at once allures the 
salmon to the surface, and directs the aim of the spearer. 
This is, however, a practice which very much injures the 
fishery, and gives little to the fisherman besides the sport ; for 
the fish are lean and of little value at the time of spawning. 
It is very entertaining to a stranger to accompany one of these 
nocturnal parties; the effect of the torch light on scenes so well 
disposed to favour imagination, is interesting ; the whisper of 
expectance and the shout of success sound with increased 
impressions, as they interrupt the accustomed silence of the 
night." 

MARRIAGES, &c. 

The manners and customs which prevail in some parts of 

* From Dr. Malkin's " South Wales." 



MARRIAGES, &C. 15 

North Wales, where the primitive simplicity of the Welsh 
character still exists, are peculiar. When a matrimonial con- 
tract has been entered into, the parents and friends of each 
party are apprised of it, and an invitation is given to the 
wedding, where, at the appointed day, every guest who dines 
drops his shilling, besides paying for what he drinks. The 
company very often amounts to two or three hundred, and 
sometimes more. This donation is intended to assist the 
young couple in purchasing the few and necessary articles 
with which to begin the world. When the woman is con- 
fined, the neighbours meet at the baptism, without any invita- 
tion, and present their free-will offerings, — usually a shilling 
to the woman herself, sixpence to the nurse, and sixpence to 
the cook, more or less, according to the ability and generosity 
of the giver. 

The custom of bundling, or courting in bed, for which the 
Welsh have frequently been bantered, is only known in the 
most retired parts of North Wales ; and, even there, is not prac- 
tised in the manner which the terms suggest to the minds of 
those who have had the happiness of living surrounded by all 
the comforts and conveniencies of a more civilised state. It 
has arisen from the lowly circumstances in which the peasants 
live, and is totally dissociated in their minds from any idea of 
impropriety. In those thinly inhabited districts, the peasant 
has often to walk several miles after the labour of the day 
to visit his mistress ; the night is far advanced before tht 
lovers grow tired of each other's company ; the bedding of 
a Welsh hut presents but little alarm of ceremony ; and from 
sitting, or perhaps lying, on the hearth, they have only to shift 
their quarters to a heap of straw, or fern, covered with two or 
three blankets, where they chat till the morning dawns. This 
courtship often lasts for years, ere the swain can prevail upon 
the damsel to accept his hand ; and during this period, the 
virtue of the parties is equally secure as in those more polished 
societies where the preliminaries to the matrimonial state are 
conducted with greater ceremony, but perhaps less sincerity. 



16 FUNERALS. 



FUNERALS* 



" When the parish-bell announces the death of a person, it 
is immediately inquired upon what day the funeral is to be ; 
and on the night preceding that day, all the neighbours 
assemble at the house where the corpse is, which they call 
Ty Corph, i. e. ' the corpse's house.' The coffin, with the 
remains of the deceased, is then placed on the stools, in an 
open part of the house, covered with black cloth ; or, if the 
deceased was unmarried, with a clean white sheet, with three 
candles burning on it. Every person on entering the house 
falls devoutly on his knees before the corpse, and repeats to 
himself the Lord's prayer, or any other prayer that he chooses. 
Afterwards, if he is a smoker, a pipe and tobacco are offered 
to him. This meeting is called Gwylnos, and in some places 
Pydreua. The first word means Vigil ; the other is, no doubt, 
a corrupt word from Paderau, or Padereuau, that is, Paters, or 
Paternosters. When the assembly is full, the parish-clerk 
reads the common service appointed for the burial of the 
dead ; at the conclusion of which, psalms, hymns, and other 
godly songs, are sung ; and since methodism is become so 
universal, some one stands up and delivers an oration on the 
melancholy subject, and then the company drop away by 
degrees. On the following day the interment takes place, 
between two and four o'clock in the afternoon, when all the 
neighbours assemble again. It is not uncommon to see on 
such occasions an assembly of three or four hundred people, or 
even more. These persons are all treated with warm spiced 
ale, cakes, pipes, and tobacco ; and a dinner is given to all 
those that come from far : I mean, that such an entertainment 
is given at the funerals of respectable farmers. They then 
proceed to the church ; and at the end of that part of the 
burial service which is usually read in the church, before the 
corpse is taken from the church, every one of the congregation 

* From Mr. William-'s " Observations on Snowdonia.' 



FUNERALS. 17 

presents the officiating minister with a piece of money ; the 
deceased's next relations usually drop a shilling each, others 
sixpence, and the poorer sort a penny a-piece, laying it on the 
altar. This is called offering, and the sum amounts sometimes 
to eight, ten, or more pounds at a burial. The parish-clerk 
has also his offering at the grave, which amounts commonly to 
about one-fourth of what the clergyman receives. After the 
burial is over, the company retire to the public-house, where 
every one spends his sixpence for ale ; then all ceremonies are 
over." 

PLANTING GRAVES. 

The custom of planting evergreens over the graves of de- 
parted friends, and adorning them at certain seasons of the 
year with flowers, is very prevalent throughout Wales. Shak- 
speare refers to it with exquisite beauty in Cymbeline : 

" With fairest flowers, 
Whilst summer lasts, and I live here, Fidele, 
I'll sweeten thy sad grave : thou shalt not lack 
The flower that's like thy face, pale primrose ; nor 
The azured harebell, like thy veins ; no, nor 
The leaf of eglantine, whom, not to slander, 
Out-sweeten'd not thy breath." 

The flowers are usually placed over the graves at Easter 
and Whitsuntide, and always by the nearest relatives and 
friends. The custom is of great antiquity, having been prac- 
tised by the Greeks and Romans. 

In Glamorganshire, the bed on which the corpse lies is 
usually strewed with flowers ; and this custom is also alluded 
to by the Bard of Avon : 

" White his shroud as the mountain snow, 
Larded all with sweet flowers ; 
Which be-wept to the grave did go, 
With true-love showers." 



ALL SAINTS' EVE. 

| A custom prevails in Wales at this period, the origin of 

i which is not clearly known. Some have attributed it to the 



18 WELSH GAMES. 

Druids, and suppose that it was instituted as an offering of 
thanksgiving for the fruits of the harvest. As soon as it 
becomes dark, bonfires are kindled, around which the peasants 
dance, hand in hand. The evening is concluded with a variety 
of rustic games and libations of cwrw. 

WELSH GAMES * 

In former times there were " twenty-four Welsh or British 
games, of which there were ten Gurolgampau, or manly games ; 
viz. — 1. to lift up great weights; 2. running; 3. leaping; 4. 
swimming; 5. wrestling; 6. riding. These six were styled 
Tadogion; viz. — pertaining to fathers, or grown up persons, 
and required only bodily strength and activity ; this last, Mar- 
chogaeth, is supposed to have included charioteering, or the 
skilful driving and management of different kinds of carriages. 
The other four were, 1. archery ; 2. playing with the sword and 
buckler; 3. playing with the Cledda deuddwrn, or two-handed 
sword; 4. Chwarau ffoun ddwybig, or playing with the two- 
end staff or spear. Next to these were the ten Mabolgampau, 
or those more peculiarly adapted to young men; viz. — 1. 
coursing; 2. fishing; 3. fowling. The remaining seven were 
of the domestic kind; 1. Barddoniaeth, or poetical compo- 
sition ; 2. Clrwareu'r Delyn, or playing upon the harp; 3. 
reading Welsh ; 4. singing with the harp ; 5. singing between 
three or four, most probably in alternate stanzas, or Pennillion ; 
6. drawing or painting, particularly coats of arms; 7. heraldry. 
After these were four Gogampiau, or minor games: viz. — 1. 
Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of draughts ; 
2. Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably backgammon, as this word 
is supposed to be derived from the Welsh language; viz. Back, 
little, and Cammawn, or Gammon, battle; and Tawl-Bwrdd 
means the toss on the table ; 3. Chwarau Ffristeal, or the game 
of the dice-box : in what manner it was played is not known 
at present; 4. Cyweiriaw Telyn, or the tuning of the harp." 

* From Mr. Williams's " Observations on Snowdonia." 



SEVEN WONDERS OF WALES. JUMPERS- 



SEVEN WONDERS OF WALES. 

This appellation was formerly given to the mountain of 
Snowdon, St. Winifred's Well, Overton Churchyard, Gres- 
ford Bells, Llangollen Bridge, Pistyll Rhaiadyr, and Wrexham. 
If, however, a selection were now to be made of the seven 
wonders of Wales, some of these must yield the palm to the 
Menai and Conway bridges, and the aqueducts of Llangollen 
and Ceiriog, over the grandeur of which the works of nature 
alone can claim the pre-eminence. 

JUMPERS. 

It is probable that the traveller, in his progress through 
Wales, will meet with some of this singular class. The custom 
of jumping, during the performance of public worship, ori- 
ginated in the western part of Wales, about the year 1760, 
amongst the followers of Harris, Rowland, and others. It was 
soon after defended by Mr. W. Williams ; and in the course of 
a few years, became very prevalent amongst the Whitfield 
methodists. The custom, however, is by no means universal, 
and is only practised on particular occasions. Some of its 
adherents attempt to justify it by the example of David, who 
danced before the Ark, and of the lame man, restored by our 
Saviour at the gate of the Temple, who leaped for joy. The 
jumping usually commences at the conclusion of the service, 
and is accompanied by loud groans and violent gesticulations, 
which are frequently continued till the parties sink down com- 
pletely exhausted. 



GLOSSARY; 



EXPLANATION OF WELSH WORDS WHICH FREQUENTLY 
OCCUR IN THE NAMES OF PLACES. 



Aber, the fall of one water into 
another, a confluence. 

Al, power, most, very. 

Allty a cliff, the side of a hill. 

Ar, upon, bordering upon. 

Avon or Afon, a river. 

Bach, little, small. 

Bedd, a grave or sepulchre. 

Bettws, a station between hill 
and vale. 

Blaen, a point or end. 

Bod, a residence. 

Braich, a branch, an arm. 

Bryn, a hill, a mount. 

Bwlch, a gap, defile, or pass. 

Bychan, little, small. 

Cader, a hill-fortress, a chair. 

Cae, an enclosure, a hedge. 

Caer, a city, a fort, a defensive 
wall. 

Capel, a chapel. 

Cam, a heap. 

Carnedd, a heap of stones. 

Carreg or Car eg, a stone. 

Castell, a castle, a fortress. 

Cefn, a ridge, the upper side. 

Clavodd, a dike, ditch, or trench. 



Clogwyn, a precipice. 

Coed, a wood. 

Cors, a bog or fen. 

Craig, a rock or crag. 

Cwm, a valley, dale, or glen. 

Dinas or Ddinas, a fort or forti- 
fied place. 

Dol, a meadow or dale in the 
bend of the river. 

Drws, a doorway, a pass. 

Du, black. 

Dyffryn, a valley. 

Eglwys, a church. 

Ffynnon, a well, a spring. 

Gaer, See Caer. 

Garth, a hill bending round. 

Glan, a brink or shore. 

Glds, bluish or grayish green. 

Glyn, a glen, or valley through 
which a river runs. 

Gwyn, white, fair. 

Gwys, a summons. 

Hafod or Havod, a summer re- 
sidence. 

Llan, a church, a smooth area, 
an enclosure. 

Llyn, a lake or pool. 



GLOSSARY. 



21 



Maen, a stone. 
Maes, a plain, an open field. 
Mawr, great, large. 
Melin, a mill. 

Moel, a smooth conical hill. 
Morfa or Morva, a sea marsh. 
Mynyd, a mountain. 
Nant, a ravine, a brook. 
Newydd, new. 
Pen, a head, chief, or end. 
Pentref, a village, a hamlet. 
Pistyll, a spout, a cataract. 
P/as, a hall or palace. 
Pont, a bridge. 

Porth, a ferry, a port, a gate- 
way, 
Pvoll, a pit. 



Rhaiadyr, a cataract. 

HAos, a moist plain or meadow. 

Rhyd, a ford. 

Sam, a causeway. 

Ta/, the front or head . 

Tan, under. 

Traeth, a sand. 

Tre or Tref, a house, a town. 

Tri, three. 

TW, a tower. 

Ty, a house. 

I 7 , the, on the, of. 

Ym, my. 

Yn, in, at, into. 

Ynys, an island. 

Ystrad, a vale, a dale. 



TOURS IN WALES. 



I. PLAN OF A TOUR IN NORTH WALES, 

Embracing the most interesting Objects in that part of the 
Principality. 
Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

Shrewsbury. Quarry Walk. Churches. Castle. Town 
Hall. Grammar School. Excursion to 
Hawkstone. Excursion to the Wrekin. 

1 8 Oswestry . . . Between Shrewsbury and Oswestry, see 
on the left the Breiddon Hills, and 
Lord Rodney's Pillar. Enter North 
Wales at Chirk. 

5f Chirk Chirk Castle. Aqueduct over the Ceiriog. 

4^ Ruabon Monuments in the church. Wynn Stay 

and Park. Offa's Dyke. 

6 Llangollen. Between Ruabon and Llangollen, the Pont 
Cysylltau Aqueduct. Descend the de- 
clivity at either end of it, and pass 
beneath the arches. Beautiful Vale. 
Bridge. View of the Dee from the 
churchyard. Triangular Monument in 
churchyard. Plas Newydd. Excur- 
sion to Castle Dinas Bran. Valle 
Crucis Abbey, and Eliseg's Pillar. 

The road then proceeds along the 

beautiful valley of the Dee to Corwen. 

10 Corwen .... Pillar in churchyard. Excursion to Caer 

Drewyn. Excursion to the Berwyn 

Mountains. 

5\ Pont y Glyn . Romantic Scenery and Cataract. 



Cerig y Druidion. 



TOUR IN NORTH WALES. 23 

Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

3 Cernioge Inn. Beyond this inn, within a mile from Bet- 
tws, Waterloo Bridge. 

9 \ Bettws y Coed. Two miles beyond, on the right, Rhaiadyr 
Wennol. 

5 Capel Curig . Two Lakes, and view of Snowdon. Ex- 
cursion to the summit of Moel Siabod. 
Four miles beyond, pass Llyn Ogwen, 
and enter Nant Frangon, or the Vale 
of Beavers. Falls of Benglog. 

7 J Tyn y Maes. A mile further, Slate Quarries, and Ogwen 
Bank. Pass Llandegai Chureh and 
Penrhyn Castle. 

7 Bangor Cathedral. Pretty views from the adja- 
cent hills. Slate Works at Port Pen- 
rhyn. Penrhyn Castle. 

Excursion to Beaumaris, either direct 
by the ferry, or round by the Menai 
Bridge. At Beaumaris, Castle and 
Baron Hill. 

Excursion to Holyhead, Amlwch, 
and Parys Mountain. At Holyhead, 
see Pier, Head Promontory, Caverns 
in the Rocks, and Rope Bridge to the 
South Stack. 

Excursion to Plas Newydd. Crom- 
lechs in the Park. 

b\ Aber Excursion to Rhaiadyr Mawr. 

3 Penmaen Mawr. Fine road belting this mountain. 

65 Conway Ancient Walls. Castle. Suspension 

Bridge and Embankment. Epitaph in 
church. Curious old House. 

Excursion to Llandudno and Great 
Orme's Head. 

From Conway proceed up the Vale 
of the Conwy to Llanrwst, visiting 
Rhaiadyr Porth Llwyd and Rhaiadyr 



24 



TOUR IN NORTH WALES. 



Miles. 

12 Llanrwst... 
3 Bettws y Coed. 



22£ Bangor. 
9 Caernarvon. 



12 Beddgelart. 



1£ Pont Aber- 

GLASLYN. 

7\ Tan y Bwlch. 



Most remarkable objects. 
Dolgarrog, situated to the right of the 
high road. This is a beautiful ride. 

Sculptures and Brasses in the Church. 
Bridge. 

Thence return to Bangor by Capel Curig, 
and Nant Frangon : or, if on foot, pro- 
ceed from Capel Curig, through the 
Pass of Llanberis, to Caernarvon. 

Castle, with Room in which Edward II. 
was born. Town Walls. View from 
Tuthill Rock. News Room and Baths. 
Excursion to the Vale and Lakes 
of Llanberis, Dolbadern Castle, and 
Waterfall of Caunant Mawr. A car- 
riage may proceed as far as Dolba- 
dern; but the Pass of Llanberis, be- 
yond it, is only accessible on a pony, 
or walking. 

About 6 miles from Caernarvon, on 
the road towards Beddgelart, pass Nant 
Mill, and, a mile further, reach Llyn 
C welly n. Thence ascend Snowdon, a 
guide to which maybe procured at the 
house on the side of this lake. 

Two miles further, pass Llyn y 
Gader and the rock called Pitt's 
Head. 

Beautiful situation. Excursion jip the 
charming valley of Nant Gwynned, or 
Nant Wynan. 

The Mountain Pass, between Beddgelart 
and this bridge, is one of the finest 
scenes in Wales. 

Excursion to Maentwrog and Rhaiadyr 
Du. 



TOUR IN NORTH WALES. 25 

Miles* Most remarkable objects. 

2| Festiniog ... Charming situation. Excursion to the 
Falls of the Cynfael, and Pistyll y 
Cwra. 

Return by Maentwrog and Tan y 
Bwlch, in the way to Tremadoc. 
9j Tremadoc . . . Pretty situation. Extraordinary Em- 
bankment. Excursion to Criccieth 
and Pwllheli. 

Proceed along the top of the Em- 
bankment, and cross the sands to 
Harlech. This should never be at- 
tempted without the Guide. 

10 Harlech Castle. 

10 Barmouth. . . Singular situation of many of the houses 
on the side of the rock. Fine sands. 

Proceed up the Maw in a boat, or 
along the road on the banks of the 
river to Dolgelley, either mode afford- 
ing fine views. 
10 Dolgelley... County Hall. Fine view from the 
Bridge. 

Excursion to Rhaiadyr Du at Dol-y- 
Melynllyn, Rhaiadyr y Mawddach 
and Pistyll y Cayne. 

Excursion to Dinas Mowddu, Mall- 
wyd, and the Fall of the Dovey. 

Ascend Cader Idris, and return to 
Dolgelley, or descend on the oppo- 
site side of the mountain to Llyn 
Talyllyn. 

From Dolgelley proceed towards 
Machynlleth, winding round the foot 
of Cader Idris, and passing by Llyn 
Teigraieny n, Llyn Talyllyn, and through 
the valley of the Dyflas, in which are 
several small cascades. 



26 TOUR IN NORTH WALES. 

Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

16i Machynlleth. Remains of Owen Glyndwr's Parliament 
House. 

Thence proceed along the valley of 
the Dyfi, or Dovey, and enter South 
Wales, near Garreg, from which Aber- 
dovey is seen on the opposite side of 
the river; and pass through Talybont 
to Aberystwith * 
18 Aberystwith. Ruins of Castle, and fine view from 
them. Marine Parade. Lead Mines 
in the vicinity. Excursion to Llan- 
badern. Ascend Pendinas Hill. 
11£ Devil's Bridge. Romantic appearance of the Bridge. 
Falls of the Mynach. Fall of the 
Rheidol. Fine view from the windows 
of the Hafod Arms. Singular species 
of Ants in the neighbouring woods. 

Excursion to the Parson's Bridge 
and Pont Herwid. 

Excursion to Hafod and Strata 
Florida Abbey, or to each separately. 

Excursion to the summit of Plin- 
limmon. 

On the road from Devil's Bridge to 
Llanidloes, re-enter North Wales at 
Steddva Gerrig, and proceed down 
the valley of the Wye, passing by 
Llangerrig. 
18 J Llanidloes. . Excursion to the Sources of the Severn 
and the Wye, on Plinlimmon. 

The road from this place to New- 
town runs parallel with the Severn 
the whole of the way. 
13 Newtown.. . . Altar-piece and Screen in church. 



* Although Aberystwith and the Devil's Bridge are situated in South Wales ; 
they may be most conveniently visited in the North Wales Tour. 



/ 



TOUR IN NORTH WALES. 



Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

9 Montgomery. Fine view from Town Hill. 
8 Welsh Pool. Curious Chalice in church. Powis 

Castle, and fine views from it. 
9J Llan y My- Extensive Lime Works. Fine view from 

nach. the top of the hill. 

10 Llanrhaiadyr. Excursion to Pistyll Rhaiadyr. 
13 Oswestry. 
18 Shrewsbury. 

Or, 

Dolgelley.. As before. 
9i Dinas Mowddu. 
2 Mallwyd... . Large Yew Trees in churchyard. Fall 

of the Dovey at Pont Fallwyd. 
2 Din as Mowddu. About halfway between this place and 
Bala, pass the defile called Bwlch y 
Groes ; and a little beyond it, to the 
left of the road, the Cascade of the 
Twrch. 

17 Bala Lake abounding with fish. 

16 Llanrhaiadyr. Thence to Shrewsbury, as before. 



14* 



Or, 
Devil's Bridge. As before. 
Cwm Ystwith. Lead Mines. 



Rhaiadyr. 



10 Penybont.. 



9 New Radnor. 
6| Kington. 
14 Leominster. . 

12 Bromyard. 
13| Worcester... 



Pretty view of the Wye. Excursion 
to Cwm Elian. Excursion to Abbey 
Cwm Hir. 

Excursion to Llandrindod Wells. Be- 
yond Penybont, pass by Llandegley, 
in the way to New Radnor. 

Excursion to Water Break its Neck. 



Altar-piece in Church. 
Figure on Almshouse. 

Cathedral. China Works. 



Butter Cross. 



2o TOUR IN NORTH WALES. 

II. ANOTHER PLAN OF A TOUR IN NORTH WALES 



Miles. 


Most remarkable objects 


Shrewsbury. 


See Tour I. 


18 Oswestry. . . 


See Tour I. 


5£ Chirk 


See Tour I , 


7 Llangollen. 


See Tour I. 


6 Ruabon 


See Tour I. 


5 \ Wrexham. . . 


Fine Church. Monuments 



by Rou- 
Pictures in the church. 
Beyond Wrexham, pass Gresford and 
Eaton Hall. 

\\\ Chester Cathedral. New Bridge. Shire Hall 

in the Castle. Town Walls. Curious 
construction of the Streets. Ancient 
Houses. Excursion to Eaton Hall. 

7 Hawarden. 
5 Northop. 

6J Holywell... St. Winifred's Well. Excursions to 

Basingwerk Abbey and Mostyn Hall. 
10 St. Asaph Cathedral. Fine view of the Vale of 

Clwyd from its tower. Tomb of Dr. 

Barrow. 
5% Denbigh. . . . Ruins of the Castle. Fine view of the 

Vale of Clwyd. 

8 Ruthin Remains of the Castle and Bowling- 

green. Beautiful prospect of the Vale - 
of Clwyd. Thence return to St. Asaph. 

13£ St. Asaph Beyond this place pass Kinmel. 

7 Abergeley . . Cave Hill and Cavern. 

11| Conway See Tour I. 

12 Llanrwst See Tour I. 

3 Bettws y Coed. See Tour I. 
5 Capel Curig. See Tour I. 
7\ Tyn y Maes. See Tour I. 

7 Bangor -.. See Tour I. Excursion to Aber, Rhai 

adyr Mawr, and Penmaen Mawr. 



TOUR IN NORTH WALES. 29 

From Bangor proceed to other 
parts of North Wales, as in the First 
Tour. 

Of course, the plan of these Tours may be reversed ; but 
the tourist is recommended to follow the route indicated, as it 
exhibits the scenery in the most favourable manner. The 
views at the beginnings of these Tours are comparatively on 
a small scale, and would consequently be seen to considerable 
disadvantage if the traveller had previously witnessed the 
sublime grandeur of Snowdon and Cader Idris. 

It is probable, however, that many travellers will avail 
themselves of the steam-packet, which goes daily, during the 
summer, from Liverpool to Beaumaris and Bangor. Six hours 
will place them in the midst of the finest marine scenery of 
North Wales ; and in six days they may visit the romantic 
beauties of Snowdonia's mountains, lake's, and glens. The 
following plan of a Tour will assist them in visiting the most 
remarkable objects. 

III. TOUR IN NORTH WALES FROM LIVERPOOL. 

Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

Liverpool. . . Pass the Estuary of the Dee, Great 
Orme's Head, Priestholme Island, and 
land at Beaumaris. 
60 Beaumaris.. Castle. Baron Hill. Excursion to Plas 
Newydd. 

Thence proceed across the Menai 
Bridge, or cross the ferry to Bangor. 

6| Bangor Cathedral. Pretty views from adjacent 

hills. Slate Works at Port Penrhyn. 
Penrhyn Castle. 

Thence proceed to Aber, Penmaen 
Mawr, Conway, Llanrwst, and Bettws 
y Coed, as in the First Tour. 



30 TOUR IN NORTH WALES. 

Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

29 J BettwsyCoed. A mile distant, Waterloo Bridge. Two 
miles beyond, on the right, Rhaiadyr 
Wennol. 
5 Capel Curig. Return to Bangor, as in First Tour. 

14J Bangor Thence to Caernarvon, by land or water, 

as the tide may serve. 
9 Caernarvon. See First Tour. 

12 Beddgelart . See First Tour. Visit Pont Aberglaslyn. 
From Beddgelart proceed up the Val- 
ley of Gwynned to Capel Curig. 

12 Capel Curig. Return to Bangor, through Nant Frangon, 
as before. 

14j Bangor Return to Liverpool by the steam-packet. 

Or, 
If the tourist prefers going by land to Liverpool, he may 
take the following route : 

Bangor Thence to Llangollen, reversing the route 

in the First Tour. 
51 \ Llangollen . Thence to Chester, as in Second Tour. 
23 Chester. 
17 \ Liverpool. 

Or, 

Bangor Thence to Chester, reversing the route in 

the Second Tour, and passing through 
Conway, St. Asaph, and Denbigh. 
108 Chester. 
17J Liverpool. 

Or, 

The traveller may visit the other parts of North Wales, by 
extending his journey from Beddgelart, as pointed out in 
Tour I. and terminating it at Shrewsbury or Worcester. 



TOUR IN SOUTH WALES. 31 



IV. PLAN OF A TOUR IN SOUTH WALES, 

Pointing out the most interesting Objects in that part of the 
Principality. 

Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

Bristol Cathedral. St. Mary Redcliffe. Com- 
mercial Rooms. City Library. Park 
Street Institution. Excursion to Clifton 
and St. Vincent's Rocks. Excursion to 
the Cottages at Henbury. Excursion 
to Leigh Court. 

34£ Gloucester . Cathedral. Mineral Spring. View from 
Vineyard Hill. 

16J Ross Church and Monuments. View from the 

Prospect Ground. House of the Man 
of Ross. 

Thence descend the Wye in a boat, 
passing by Wilton Castle, Goodrich 
Court and Castle, Lidbrook and Cold- 
well Rocks. Land at Symond's Yat 
to enjoy the view from the top of it, 
and then proceed by the boat, passing 
by the site of the New Weir, which 
has been removed, and the Great and 
Little Doward, to Monmouth. Or, if 
the tourist objects to a water ex- 
cursion, he may proceed across Wilton 
Bridge to Monmouth. The distance 
by water is 20 miles ; by land, 10J. 

10J Monmouth . . Remains of the Castle, the birth-place of 
Henry the Fifth. Priory House, with 
Library of Geoffrey of Monmouth. 
Pretty Walks in the vicinity. Ex- 
cursion to the Kymin Hill, fine view. 
Excursion to the Buckstone, fine view. 
Excursion to Troy House. 



32 



TOUR IN SOUTH WALES. 



Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

8 Ragland,... Ruins of the Castle. 

6 Usk Fine view from the Bridge. Pretty Walk 

to the Ruins of the Castle. Curious 
Inscription in the church. Ancient 
Camps in the vicinity. 
8 Newport. . . . Remains of the Castle. Prospect from 
the Churchyard. 

Thence pass by Tredegar Park to 
Caerdiff. 
11£ Caerdiff . . . Castle, Keep, Walks, Dungeon in which 
Robert, Duke of Normandy, was con- 
fined. Quay and Iron Wharfs. 
2 \ Llandaff . . . Cathedral. 

Thence pass by the Melin Gruffyth 
Iron and Tin Works, and cross the 
river Taff to Caerphilly. 

6 Caerphilly . Magnificent Ruins of the Castle. Lean- 

ing Tower. 

Then return to the river, and, pass- 
ing by TafFs Well, proceed up the 
interesting valley of the Taff to Pont y 
Pridd. The hills on each side rise to 
a considerable height, whilst, along the 
bottom of the vale, the river forms a 
roaring cataract. The Caerdiff canal 
is parallel with it, and, in some parts, 
there are two roads, and two rail 
roads, presenting a singular scene. If 
the tourist do not wish to see Pont y 
Pridd, he may proceed by the direct 
road to Merthyr Tydvil. 

7 Pont y Pridd. Remarkable Bridge, commanding a fine 

view. Two W r aterfalls in the vici- 
nity. Excursion up the Valley of the 
Rontha. 
Thence pass by Quaker's Yard and 



TOUR IN SOUTH WALES. 



33 



12 Merthyr 

Tydvil. 

13 Glyn Neath 



Pont Neath 
Vaughan. 



Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

the Plymouth Iron Works, still pur- 
suing the Valley of the Taffto Merthyr 
Tydvil. 
Cyfarthfa Iron Works, which are the most 

extensive. Pendarron Iron Works. 
The inn here is called the Lamb and 
Flag, the only name by which the 
place is known in this part of the 
country. 
Excursion to the Waterfalls of the Hepste, 
Mellte, and Purthen. The tourist may 
make this excursion, however, from 
Glyn Neath, as the inn there is a 
better resting place than that at Pont 
Neath Vaughan. 

Thence descend the beautiful Vale 
of Neath, in which are several gen- 
tlemen's seats. See, on the left, but 
on the other side of the river, Me- 
lincourt Waterfall. Leave, on the right, 
the Cascade of Aberdylais, and pass 
by Cadoxton to Neath. The road from 
Pont Neath Vaughan to Neath has 
been very much improved within a 
few years. 

12 Neath ...... Ruins of the Castle. Ruins of the Abbey. 

Copper Works and Iron Founderies. 
Excursion to Gnoll Castle and Melin- 
court Waterfall. Excursion to Aber- 
dylais Cascade. Excursion to Briton 
Ferry. Excursion to Margam Park. 

Proceed to Swansea, leaving Mor- 
ristown on the right. 
Remains of the Castle. Modern Town 
Hall. Potteries. Harbour and Piers. 
Burrows Promenade. Sands. Copper 
c 2 



8^ Swansea .... 



34 



TOUR IN SOUTH WALES. 



Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

Works in the vicinity. Excursion into 
Gower. 
9 Pont ar Dulas. 
17\ Caermarthen. Guildhall, with Portrait of Sir T. Picton. 
Picton's Monument. Parade. Ex- 
cursion to Abergwilly Palace and 
Merlin's Hill. 
9 \ St. Clear's. . Pass by Tavernspite to Cold Blow. 
11 Cold Blow. 

1\ Tenby Ruins of Castle, and fine view from 

them. Romantic character of the 
Rocks. Excellent Sands. Remains of 
the Town Walls. Church and Monu- 
ments. Singular Arch in the church- 
yard. St. Catherine's Rock. Excur- 
sion to Caldy and St. Margaret's 
Islands. Excursion to Penally, Giltar 
Point, and Manorbeer Castle. 

Thence proceed to Pembroke, leaving 
Manorbeer Castle to the left, and pass- 
ing by Lamphey. 

Ruins of the Castle. Dock Yard in the 
vicinity. Excursion to Carew. Ex- 
cursion to Stackpool Court, and round 
the coast to St. Gowan's Chapel, Bo- 
sherton Meer, the Stacks, and Lenny 
Head. Aquatic Excursion to Milford 
Haven. 

Church, containing Vase, and part of the 
Mast of l'Orient. 

Remains of the Castle. Parade. Ex- 
cursion to Picton Castle. 

Cathedral ; Shrine of St. David ; nume- 
rous Monuments ; Tomb of Giraldus 
Cambrensis; Tomb of Edmund Tudor. 
Ruins of the Episcopal Palace. 



10 Pembroke... 



7 Milford. 



1\ Haverford- 
west. 

154 St. David's, 



TOUR IN SOUTH WALES, 



35 



Miles. 

16 Fishguard . 



7 Newport. 
10* Cardigan . . 



Most remarkable objects. 
Echo near the Church. In the vicinity, 
the Rock upon which the French 
landed in 1797. This may be taken 
in the way from St. David's. 



Remains of the Castle. Excursion to 
the Ruins of St. Dogmael's Abbey. 

Thence proceed in a boat up the 
Teivy to Kilgerran, as the banks of 
the river are remarkably picturesque. 
The time of starting must, of course, 
be regulated by the tide. 

Remains of the Castle. Tin-plate Manu- 
factory in the vicinity. 

Ruins of the Castle, commanding a fine 
view. 

Thence proceed, parallel with the 
Teivy, to Lampeter. 

St. David's College. 

Thence continue the tour up the Vale of 
the Towey, on each side of which there 
is a road to Llandilo Vawr. Pass 
by Middleton Hall, Dryslyn Castle, 
Grongar Hill, Golden Grove, and Dy- 
nevor Castle. 
14| Llandilo Vawr. Excursion to Dynevor Castle in Newton 
Park. Excursion to Carreg Cennen 
Castle, and Glenheir Waterfall. 

Thence there are two roads to Llan- 
dovery, one on each side of the Towey. 
That through Llangadock is only 
passable in fine weather. 

Beyond this place the road passes 
through the romantic pass of Cwm 
Dwr. 



3 KlLGERRAN . . 

8 Newcastle in 
Emlyn. 



20 Lampeter.... 
23J Caermarthen 



14i Llandovery. 



9 Trecastle. 



36 



TOUR IN SOUTH WALES. 



Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

11 Brecon Remains of the Castle. Two public walks 

along the Usk and the Honddu. Birth- 
place of Mrs. Sid dons. Church of St. 
John. College. 

The whole of the road between this 
place and Caermarthen has been very- 
much improved within a few years, so 
that not a single hill now impedes the 
progress of the traveller. 

From Brecon to Abergavenny the 
road proceeds down the Valley of the 
Usk. About 11 miles beyond Brecon 
it passes the ruins of Tretower Castle. 

13| Crickhowell. Remains of Castle. Pretty scenery in 
the vicinity. About 2\ miles beyond 
this place pass the County Stone, which 
designates the boundary of Wales. 
6| Abergavenny. Ruins of the Castle. View from the 
Terrace. View through Tudor's Gate. 
Ascend the Sugar Loaf Mountain. 
Ascend Skyrrid Mawr. Excursion to 
Llanthony Abbey. 

16| Monmouth . . Thence proceed by the New Road along 
the banks of the Wye to Chepstow, 
passing Redbrook, Llandogo Tintern, 
Tintern Abbey, and Moss Cottage. 
Ascend WindclifT, and, if it be Tuesday 
or Friday, see the grounds of Pierce- 
field. 

15£ Chepstow Ruins of Castle. Prison of the Regi- 
cide Marten. Church; Monument of 
second Earl of Worcester ; Tombstone 
of Marten, with singular Inscription. 
Iron Bridge. Ebbing and Flowing 
Well. 
Bristol From Chepstow to this place by steam- 



TOUR IN SOUTH WALES. 37 

Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

packet, or proceed to Beachley, and 
cross the Severn at the Aust Passage. 

Or, 

If the tourist be riding on horseback, or walking, he 

may make the following deviation from the preceding route : — 

Swansea .... As before. 

6 Llotjghor.. .. Vestiges of the Castle. Views from the 

church. Then ford the river Lloughor, 

or cross it in the ferry-boat, according 

to the state of the tide. 

5 Llanelly Fine view from Pembree Hill between 

this place and Kidwelly. 
9 Kidwelly.... Ruins of the Castle. Church Spire. 
Then proceed to Llanstephan, and 
ford the river Towey, or cross it in 
a boat, according to the tide. 

6 Llanstephan. Ruins of the Castle. Thence cross the 

river Tave, just on this side of Llaug- 
harne. 
5 Llaugharne. Cloak and Mantle in the Church. Shells 
found on the Sands. Green Bridge 
may be visited in the way to Tenby. 
16 Tenby Thence proceed as before. 

V. ANOTHER PLAN OF A TOUR IN SOUTH 
WALES. 

Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

Bristol See Tour IV. 

34£ Gloucester.. See Tour IV. 

16^ Ross See Tour IV. 

10£ Monmouth . . See Tour IV. Thence by the New Road 
along the banks of the Wye to Chep- 
stow. See Tour IV. 

15| Chepstow See Tour IV. 



38 TOUR IN SOUTH WALES. 

Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

5| Caerwent . .. Traces of the Roman Fortifications. 
9 Caerleon.... Traces of the Roman Fortifications, and 
of an Amphitheatre called Arthur's 
Round Table. 
3 Newport .... Thence proceed to Brecon, as in Tour IV. 

3O02 Brecon As before. 

11 Glasbury Beyond this place pass Maeslough. 

4 J Hay Chalice in the church. View from the 

churchyard. Excursion to Clifford 
Castle. Excursion to Clyro Forest. 
19 Hereford... Cathedral. Castle Green. Nelson's 
Column. Shire Hall. 

Or, 
Brecon As before, either in Tour IV. or V. 

11 Geasbury As before. 

4£ Hay As before. 

12£ Kington. 

14 Leominster.. Altar-piece in the church. Butter Cross. 
Figure on Almshouse. 

12 Bromyard. 

13| Worcester. . Cathedral. China Works. 

VI. ANOTHER PLAN OF A TOUR IN SOUTH 
WALES. 

Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

Lampeter As in Tour IV. 

17 LlandiloVawr. See Tour IV. 

14 J Llandovery. See Tour IV. 

22^ Builth Remains of the Castle. Park Wells. 

7 Llandrindod. Wells. 

3 Penybont Thence to Worcester, as in Tour I. 

55J Worcester. 



TOUR IN SOUTH AND NORTH WALES. 39 

VII. ANOTHER PLAN OF A TOUR IN SOUTH 
WALES. 

Miles. Most remarkable objects. 

Caerdiff As in Tour IV. Excursion to Llandaff 

and Caerphilly. 
12£ Cowbridge. 

8 Bridgend.. .. Excursion to Ogmore Castle. 
7 Pyle Inn. 

If Margam. . . . Remains of the Abbey. Ancient Crosses. 
Park, Conservatory, and Orangery. 

1 1 Neath See Tour IV. 

11 Glyn Neath. Excursion to Pont Neath Vaughan, and 
the Waterfalls of the Purthen, Hepste, 
and Mellte. Then return to Neath. 

11 Neath Thence proceed, as in Tour IV. 

The preceding Tours in South Wales may of course be 
considerably shortened, if the traveller go direct from Bristol 
to Newport, Swansea, or Tenby, by the steam-packet. In this 
case, however, many interesting objects will be lost. 

Some persons may wish to unite the two portions of the 
Principality in the same tour, and content themselves with 
viewing the most prominent features of each. South Wales 
ought then to be visited first, as the scenery is on a smaller 
scale than that of North Wales. The following route may 
be pursued. It is unnecessary again to notice the excur- 
sions and the most remarkable objects, as they have been 
pointed out in the preceding Tours. 

VIII. PLAN OF A TOUR IN SOUTH AND NORTH 
WALES. 

Miles. Miles. 

Bristol. 13f Brecon. 

15^ Chepstow. 16| Builth. 

12 Ragland. 7 Llandrindod. 

9 Abergavenny. 3 Penybont. 
6£ Crickhowel. 13 Rhaiadyr. 



40 



TOUR IN SOUTH AND NORTH WALES. 



Miles. 

14 i Cwm Ystwith. 

3 Hafod. 

4 Devil's Bridge. 
11 J Aberystwith. 
18 Machynlleth. 

Ascend Plinlrmmon. 
16i Dolgelley. 

Ascend Cader Idris. 
10 Barmouth. 
10 Harlech. 
10 Tremadoc. 

9£ Festiniog. 

2f Tan y Bwlch. 

7\ Pont Aberglaslyn. 

1± Beddgelart. 

Ascend Snowdon. 
12 Caernarvon. 

7 Dolbadern. Return to 

7 Caernarvon. 

6J Menai Bridge. 

2i Bangor. 

5i Aber. 

3 Penmaen Mawr. 

6| Conway. 
14^ Bangor. 



Miles. 

7 Tyn y Maes. 
7\ Capel Curig. 

5 Bettws y Coed. 
9 \ Cernioge Inn. 

3 Cerig y Druidion. 
4| Pont y Glyn. 
5i Corwen. 
1 Llangollen . 

6 Ruabon. 
4i Chirk. 

5 1 Oswestry. 
1 3 Llanrhaiadyr. 
10 Llan y Mynach. 

9i Welsh Pool. 

8 Montgomery. 

9 Bishop's Castle. 
12£ Knighton. 

7 Presteign. 
6£ Kington. 

20£ Hereford. 

14^ Ross. 

20 Monmouth, by water. 

\5\ Chepstow, by new road 

15 h Bristol. 



TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION, 

ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED. 



ABER, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Bangor 5£ Llanfair Vechan 2 

Beaumaris, across the sands 5J Menai Bridge • • • 71 

Conway 9J Penmaen Mawr 3 

Llandegai 3J PortPenrhyn 3| 

Is a pretty little vill age, situated at the mouth of a small 
stream which here flows across the Lavan Sands into the Irish 
Sea. It is sometimes called Abergwyngregin, from the num- 
ber of cockles found on the coast. 

Near the bridge is the Mwd, an artificial mount, on which 
once stood the palace of Llewelyn ap Gryffydd, Prince of 
Wales. Vestiges of the moat, and of the cut from the river 
which supplied it, are still visible. 

Aber is sometimes frequented in summer for sea-bathing, 
the sandy coast being favourable for that purpose. This is the 
last of the ferries over the Menai Strait to Anglesea. At low 
water, the walk from the village across the Lavan Sands, to the 
ferry, is about four miles. The stranger must not venture 
without a guide, as the sands frequently shift, and render the 
passage dangerous. In foggy weather, the bell of Aber Church, 
which was presented by Lord Bulkeley, in 1817, is constantly 
rung, with a view to direct those persons whose business com- 
pels them to adventure. Since the erection of the Menai 
bridge, however, this ferry is seldom used. 

Inn. The Bull's Head, where cars and post-horses may be 
obtained. This is a good station from which to ascend Pen- 
maen Mawr. 



42 ABER. 



RHAIADYR MAWR OR GWYN. 

A romantic glen, about two miles in length, leads from Aber 
to Rhaiadyr Mawiyor the Great Cataract, sometimes called 
Rhaiadyr Gwyn. The upper part of this waterfall runs through 
a narrow and crooked channel, and the lower portion is some- 
times broken into several divisions by the rugged face of the 
impending cliff. The total height of the fall is upwards of 
eighty feet. In wet weather, the lower- part forms one unbroken 
sheet. 

CAR GWILLIM DU. 



cave, in which William de Breos was interred. This potent 
baron was taken prisoner by Llewelyn ap Gryffyd, at the siege 
of Montgomery, in the reign of Henry III. During his cap- 
tivity at Aber, he not only gained the friendship of his con- 
queror, but the affections of his wife, with whom he carried on 
an intrigue. This did not come to the knowledge of Llewelyn 
till after the baron had obtained his ransom. He then solicited 
the favour of a visit ; and having once more got De Breos in I 
his power, gratified his revenge by hanging him on a hill oppo- 
site his palace, and shewing him in this situation to his wife, 
cruelly asking her what she would give for a sight of her lover. 
Tradition has preserved the memory of this event, in a distich 
which has been thus translated : — 

" Lorely princess," said Llewelyn, 
"What will you give to see your Willim ?" 

" Wales, and England, and Llewelyn, 
I'd give them all to see my Willim." 

ABERAERON, or ABERYRON, 

IN CARDIGANSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberystwith 16 Lampeter, or Llanbedr 15 

Cardigan 23 

Is a neat little village situated in a vale at the mouth of the 



AEERDARE — ABERDOVEY — ABERERAW. 43 

river Aeron or Yron, over which is a bridge. It has a tolerable 



inn. 

A pleasant excursion may be made up the Vale of Aeron, 
for seven or eight miles, and a fine view of it obtained from 
Tri-crug-hill, so called from the three tumuli on its summit. 

ABERDARE, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Glyn Neath 8 Pont y Pridd 9 

Merthyr Tydvil 6 

Is a populous village situated on the river Cynon, and noted 
for its iron works. Four miles to the north is the Hirwaen 
Furnace. A canal leads from this place to the Cardiff Canal. 

ABERDOVEY, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberystwith, across the sands 11 Towyn 4 

Machynlleth 10 

Or Aberdyvi, is a small sea-port, situated, as its name im- 
ports, at the mouth of the Dovey or Dyvi. It stands on the north 
bank of this river, at the foot of some romantic rocks, and is 
chiefly inhabited by fishermen. A number of vessels are em- 
ployed in the import of shop goods from Bristol and Liverpool, 
and the export of the productions of the Vale of Dovey. There 
is a ferry over the river, and the sands may be crossed at low 
water. 

ABERFRAW, 

IN ANGLESEA, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 
Monalnn 8 Newborough 7 

Is a small village at the mouth of the Fraw. It is only 
remarkable as having been the residence of the princes of North 
Wales from the time of Roderic Mawr in 843, to the death of 
Llewelyn the Great in 1282. 



44 
ABERGAVENNY, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Brecon, by Crickhowell • • • • 20 London 147 

Chepstow, by Ragland 21 . Monmouth * 16£ 

Crickhowell 6£ Pontypool 10| 

Hereford 24 Ragland 9 

Llanthony Abbey 10 Usk 11 

Is an ancient but handsome and well-built town, -with about 
4000 inhabitants. It is situated at the junction of the rivulet 
Gavenny with the Usk, and at the foot of the Deny, one of the 
hills supporting the Sugar Loaf Mountain. 

At the south end of the town are the picturesque ruins of 
the Castle, which was originally built in the reign of William I. 
The gate-house is still standing, and the form of two courts may 
yet be traced amid the ruins. The castle-terrace commands a 
delightful view of the Vale of Usk. 

The town was formerly fortified, but of its four gates, only 
that called Tudor 's Gate remains. The landscape, as seen 
through this arch, is particularly beautiful. 

The Church of St. Mary was once attached to a priory. It 
is a large Gothic structure, which appears to have been origin- 
ally built in the form of a cross, but has undergone so many 
alterations that little of its original features remains. It con- 
tains several monuments of the Herbert and other families. 
The Priory-house is now let out in lodgings. 

Abergavenny has a Free School, founded by Henry VEIL, 
several Meeting-houses, and a Roman Catholic Chapel. The 
inns are, the Greyhound, the Angel, and the Golden Lion. 

SUGAR LOAF MOUNTAIN. 

This elevated point rises 1852 feet above the level of the 
sea, and is visible from Bitcomb Hill, near Longleat in Wilt- 
shire, and from the Stiper Stones in Shropshire. The ascent 
is by no means difficult, as a light carriage might be driven to 
within 100 paces of the summit. The view from this point is 



ABERGAVENNY. 45 

extensive and diversified. To the west stretches the beautiful 
Vale of the Usk, winding amid the recesses of mountains, and 
extending to the south into the fertile plain terminated by the 
Clytha Hill. Above it towers the magnificent Blorenge, and 
in the midst rises the Little Skyrrid. To the north extends a 
circular range of mountains, from the extremity of the Black 
Mountains above Llanthony to the Table Rock near Crick- 
howell. To the east the eye looks down on the broken crags of 
the Great Skyrrid, which starts up in the midst of a rich and 
cultivated region. Beyond, the Malvern Hills, the Graig, the 
Garway, and the eminences above Monmouth, bound the hori- 
zon. To the south appear the Severn, and the hills of Somer- 
setshire and Gloucestershire. 

Tourists who wish to visit the Sugar Loaf should commence 
by ascending the Deny, about a mile along the Hereford road, 
and should descend the side of the Rolben. The whole excur- 
sion may be accomplished in four hours. 

SKYRRID MAWR, OR ST. MICHAEl/s MOUNT. 

This eminence, which rises 1498 feet above the level of the 
sea, is situated between Abergavenny and Llanvihangel; though 
the summit is less elevated than that of the Sugar Loaf, yet its 
insulated situation, abrupt declivity, and craggy fissures, pro- 
duce an effect more sublime and striking than the smooth and 
undulating surface of the Sugar Loaf and Derry. At the sum- 
mit is a small circular cavity, formed near the verge of the 
precipice, supposed to have been the site of a Roman Catholic 
chapel dedicated to St. Michael. The ascent may be com- 
menced from a farm-house called Landewi Skyrrid, on the road 
to Ross. 

LITTLE SKYRRID. 

This is a beautiful swelling hill, rising to the height of 765 
feet. The summit presents a prospect more delightful, 
though not so extensive as those from the Sugar Loaf and 
Great Skyrrid. 



46 . ABERGELEY. 



BLAENAVON IRON WORKS 

Are frequently visited from Abergavenny. They are about six 
miles distant. Several hundred workmen are employed there, 
and the iron is conveyed to the neighbouring canal by a 
railway. 

THE BLORENGE MOUNTAIN, 

To the west of Abergavenny, rises 1720 feet in height, and 
forms the north-east boundary of the valley called Avon Llwyd. 
The sides are covered with woods and fields, and the summit 
with short herbage. The highest part is only accessible on one 
side, but the ascent affords fine views. 

WHITE CASTLE, OR CASTLE GWYN. 

The ruins of this building are situated about half way 
between Abergavenny and Monmouth. They are of irregular 
form, flanked by several circular towers, one of which is sixty 
feet high. The castle is supposed to have been erected by the 
Normans. 

ABERGELEY, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Conway 11J Llandulas 2i 

Denbigh, by St. Asaph 12J Rhuddlan 5 

Diserth 8 St.Asaph-.- 7 

Holywell 17 

Or Abergeleu, is situated on the edge of Rhuddlan Marsh, 
and is resorted to during the summer, the sands being firm, ex- 
tensive, and well adapted for bathing, and the surrounding 
country abounding with pleasing scenery. The distance, how- 
ever, to the water's edge is at least half a mile. The town 
consists principally of one street, and contains about 2000 
inhabitants. Inns. — The Bee, and the Union Hotel. 

About a mile distant is an immense calcareous rock, called 
Cefn Ogo, or Cave Hill, in which is a large cavern. The mouth 



ABERYSTWITH. 47 

resembles the arched entrance to a cathedral, and the interior 
is divided by a wall of rock into two apartments. 

Cave Hill commands an extensive and varied prospect. To 
the east is an uninterrupted view of St. Asaph, the Vale of 
Clywd, and the mountains of Flintshire, together with a con- 
siderable portion of Cheshire and Lancashire, and the town of 
Liverpool. To the north the Isle of Man is seen in the hori- 
zon, and to the west appears that of Anglesea. The mountains 
of Caernarvonshire close the view towards the south. 

From the neighbouring mountains large quantities of lime 
are sent to Liverpool and other parts of England. 

About a mile from Abergeley, on the right of the road 
towards Conway, is Gwrch,a. modern-built house in the castel- 
lated style. 

ABERYSTWITH, 

IN CARDIGANSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberaeron • • • * 16 London, by Ross 210 

Devil's Bridge ll| London, by Worcester 208 

Hafod 15i MachynUeth 18 

Lampeter 27* Plinlimmon 16 

Lampeter, by Aberaeron 29 Rhaiadyr, by Devil's Bridge 291 

Llanbadam Vawr 1£ Towyn, across the Dovey • • 15 

Llanidloes, by Devil's Bridge. 30 Tregaron 18 

Llanidloes, by New Road, about 28 



This fashionable watering-place and market-town is plea- 
santly situated near the centre of Cardigan Bay, at the 
mouths of the rivers Ystwith and Rheidol. Over the latter 
is a long stone bridge of five arches. The town is well laid 
out, and is the most populous in the county, the inhabitants 
exceeding 4000. Within a few years, it has experienced 
great improvement ; the houses have multiplied rapidly, the 
roads have been much improved, and pleasant walks have 
been formed in the environs. 

The Marine Parade is an elegant crescent, formed since 
1819, and situated on the margin of the sea. Each extremity 
is bounded by heights : at the north end is Craiglais, or 



48 ABERYSTWITH. 

Constitution Hill, and at the south the castle ruins, both of 
which possess excellent walks. The Marine Terrace, which 
forms the east side of the parade, consists of handsome and 
commodious houses, most of which are let for lodgings during 
the summer. They command an excellent view of the sea 
and of the beach, from which pleasure boats are constantly 
starting. 

The Custom House stands on the south-west part of the 
terrace, at the corner of Pier Street: it was erected in 1773. 
At the south end of the terrace is a gateway, forming the 
entrance to the Castle House, a singular-looking building, 
erected by Mr. Uvedale Price as a summer residence : it is 
in the Gothic castellated style, consisting of three octagonal 
towers, and is now occupied as a lodging-house, belonging 
to the Belle Vue Hotel. 

Beyond it are the Ruins of the Castle, situated on a lofty 
rock projecting into the sea. Several of the dilapidated 
towers and a considerable portion of the walls still remain. 
This castle was founded by Gilbert de Strongbow, in the reign 
of Henry I., and rebuilt by Edward I. in 1277. It was 
considered a fortress of great strength, and was once the 
residence of Cadwalader. During the reign of Charles I. it 
was used as a mint, and after his death was held for some 
time by the royal troops. Cromwell, however, battered it 
from the neighbouring height, called Pendinas Hill, and 
effected its demolition. The ruins are interspersed with 
walks, which form an excellent promenade and command 
fine views, including the whole of Cardigan Bay, which is 
bounded on the north by Caernarvonshire and on the south 
by Pembrokeshire. From this spot also the Welsh mountains 
are seen to great advantage, Cader Idris, and, in clear wea- 
ther, Snowdon, being distinctly visible. It has even been 
asserted, that Wexford, in Ireland, which is situated exactly 
opposite to Aberystwith, has been discovered in the disc of 
the setting sun. 

The Church, dedicated to St. Michael, is separated from 
the castle ruins by a stone wall. It was built in 1786. A 



ABERYSTWITH. 49 

new church, however, was commenced in 1830, contiguous to 
the old one, and is to be completed in two years. 

The Assembly Rooms stand on an elevated spot, sepa- 
rated merely from the castle ruins by the churchyard. They 
were built in 1820, from designs by Mr. Repton, and comprise 
a ball and promenade room, which is used as a reading-room, 
a card-room, and a billiard-room. The season commences 
in July, and ends in October. 

The Market Place was erected in 1824. The market is 
held on Mondays and Saturdays, and is well supplied. Fresh 
butter is sold here eighteen ounces in the pound, but every 
other article sixteen ounces. 

Aberystwith also contains a Town Hall, situated in the 
principal street ; a Theatre ; two Dispensaries ; a National 
School, founded in 1819; a Grammar School; and several 
Meeting Houses. The Baptist Meeting House is in Baker 
Street, the Wesleyan in Queen Street, the Galvinistic Method- 
ist in Mill Street, and the Independent in Penmaes Glas. 

The Harbour has been much improved within a few years, 
by joining the mouths of the rivers Ystwith and Rheidol, and 
thus deepening the channel. The vessels employed vary from 
18 to upwards of 200 tons. A considerable trade is carried on 
in the exportation of lead and silver ore, calamine, black lead, 
wheat, barley, oats, oak bark, timber, and slates ; and in the 
importation of porter, wines, spirituous liquors, grocery, salt, 
coals, hemp, pitch, tar, ironmongery, hides, and linen. The 
herring fishery flourished here formerly, and that fish, as well 
as cod, is caught at present. 

The Bathing is well conducted, and there are bathing- 
machines on the same plan as those at the English watering- 
places. The beach being of pebbles, the water is always clear. 

The Marine Baths, at the north end of the Marine Parade, 
stand on a rock projecting into the sea. In addition to cold 
baths, they comprise a cold plunging-bath, a shower-bath, a 
vapour-bath, bed-rooms for invalids, &c. There is also a 
warm-bath house near the centre of the Terrace. 

Aberystwith likewise possesses a Chalybeate Spring. It is 

D 



50 ABERYSTWITH. 

situated a few hundred yards east of the town, upon a co 
mon, close to the river, almost at the commencement of 
pleasant walk leading by Plas Crug to Llanbadarn. It 
accidentally discovered about 1779, and resembles in its 
qualities the waters of Tunbridge. It is simply chalybeate, 
neither acidulous nor saline to the taste, except when it has 
been mixed with the sea water after high tides, nor is there any 
sulphur in it. The usual time recommended for taking the 
water is eight o'clock in the morning, and again between 
breakfast and dinner, gradually increasing the dose according 
to age and habit. No person should, however, commence a 
course of medicinal water without consulting a physician. 

Races are held annually, about August, in a field near 
Goggerddan, three miles from the town. They usually last 
two days. 

The beach near Aberystwith abounds with valuable 
pebbles, amongst which are found cornelians, agates, pudding 
stones, crystals, jaspers, moccos, trapstones, &c. These are 
cut, polished, and sold by the lapidaries in the town. 

To the votaries of Angling, Aberystwith holds out many 
temptations. In the immediate vicinity are the Ystwith and 
the Rheidol : the trout here are small, and not very numerous; 
but the autumnal fishing for salmon and sewin is excellent. 
There is also good lake fishing within a day's excursion, that 
is, between ten and fifteen miles off. The river Lery, about 
six miles to the north, and the river Teivy, eighteen miles 
to the east of Aberystwith, likewise afford good sport. 

In the vicinity of Aberystwith are several lead mines, the 
ore of which is so rich in silver that the district has been; 
called the Welsh Potosi. About three miles to the east is 
Esgairvraith copper mine, and four miles south is Coginan 
lead mine ; but the mines more immediately in the vici- 
nity of Aberystwith are Cluernog and Cwmswmlog. From 
the latter, Sir Hugh Myddleton obtained the property that 
enabled him to conduct the new river from Hertfordshire to 
London. 

Inns. The Belle Vue Hotel, an excellent house, situated 



ABERYSTWITH. 51 

on the Marine Parade ; the Talbot ; and the Goggerddan 
Arms. During the summer, there are coaches two or three 
times a-week to Shrewsbury and Worcester. 

WALKS IN THE VICINITY. 

First. Pass the Marine Baths, ascend the high mount 
called Craiglais, or Echo Rock, close to which is Bryndioddau, 
or the Criminal's Mount, so named from having been the place 
j of execution. Descend to the village in the vale of Clarach, so 
j called from the river which here enters the sea. Return to 
■j Aberystwith by another path over Craiglais ; or proceed up 
the vale, cross the bridge, and turn up the Machynlleth road, 
which leads directly back to the town. Or return from the 
vale of Clarach, along the beach : this, however, must depend 
upon the state of the tide, as there have been instances of 
persons being isolated amid the hollows of the shore, and 
obliged to climb the dangerous and rugged cliffs, or to wait 
till the ebb. In one part of the rock is an immense den, 
called Eglwys Matthew, or Matthew's Church, from an ec- 
centric beggar who pretended to preach here. 

Second. Pass the Chalybeate Spring, situated in a plea- 
sant walk along the side of the Rheidol. At the end of this 
walk is Plus Crug, the remains of an ancient fortification, 
where Griffith ap Rhys encamped when he landed from Ire- 
land, in the reign of Henry I. It was afterwards occupied 
by Owen Glyndwr; and it was here that the French pleni- 
potentiaries were entertained by him, and a treaty ratified, 
in 1405, between France and Wales. Proceed to Llanba- 
dern, which is described in another part of the work. Return 
the same way, or cross the bridge over the Rheidol, and take 
the road along the other side of the river to Aberystwith. 

Third. Go down Bridge Street, cross the bridge, enter 
Tre'vechan, and, turning on the right by the side of the har- 
bour, the walk leads past the storehouses to the junction of 
the Rheidol and the Ystwith. This walk runs round the 
j base of Pendinas, and along the side of the Ystwith, to the 
i village of Rhyd y Velin, or Ford of the Mill. Return by 



52 ABERYSTWITH. 

the turnpike road to Aberystwith, or ascend Pendinas Hill, 
the summit of which commands fine views, particularly of the 
courses of the two rivers Rheidol and Ystwith. A fortress 
was built on the summit of Pendinas by Rhys ap Griffith in 
1117; and here Cromwell erected a battery to bombard 
Aberystwith Castle. The entrenchment which he made was | 
not filled up till about 1828. Yr Alltwen, on the opposite 
side of the river, is a noble rival to Pendinas, in height and 
beauty. 

RIDES OR DRIVES. 

First Road, towards the North. — Penglais, \\ mile from 
A, is a handsome mansion, standing on an eminence. Cwm 
Cynvelin, 2 miles, overlooking the Vale of Clarach. Gog- 
gerddan, pronounced Gogerthan, 3 miles, the seat of the Pryse 
family, and noted as the birth-place of Rhydderch ab Ievan 
Llwyd, a celebrated Welsh poet. Thence proceed to the coast, 
to Borth Sands, 6 miles. These extend from the village of 
Borth to the river Dovey, a distance of 3 miles. Return to 
Aberystwith. 

Second Road. — Pass by the Vicarage Home, half a mile 
from A. Llanbadern, 1\. Vronvraith, 3 miles, the seat of 
the Bonsall family. Glanrheidol, another mansion, 6 miles, on 
the banks of the Rheidol. 

Third Road. — Pass by Crugiau, 1£ mile from A. Aber- j 
llolwyn, another seat, 3 miles. Morva, 4 miles, the ancient 
seat of the Hughes family. Abermayde, 5 miles. Castle Hill, 
on the banks of the Ystwith, 6 miles. Llidiadau, 7 miles. 
Crosswood, 8 miles, the seat of the Earl of Lisburne, situated 
on the Ystwith, and surrounded by a park. The Welsh name 
is Trawscoed. Return by Nanteos, which is 3 miles from 
Aberystwith. 

THE VALE OF RHEIDOL 

Extends from Aberystwith towards the west, and affords a 
delightful excursion to the pedestrian. " It is a very grand 
and extensive scene," says Mr. Gilpin ; " continuing not less 



AMLWCH. 53 

! 

| than 10 miles, among rocks, hanging woods, and varied ground, 
i which, in some parts, become mountainous; while the river is 
''■ every where a beautiful object, and twice or three times, in its 
I passage through the vale, is interrupted in its course, and formed 
I into a cascade." 
! 

taliesin's grave, 

J About 8 miles from Aberystwith, on the right of the road to 
Machynlleth, is situated on PemSarn Ddu, between the rivers 
Ceulan and Clettwr. It consists of a large heap of earth, 
surrounded by two circles of stones, in the centre of which 
is the bed or tomb. Taliesin was a celebrated bard, who 
flourished 1300 years ago, and is said by some to have been 
buried here. Dr. Meyrick, however, entertains a different 
opinion. 



From Aberystwith, also, excursions may be made to Hafod, 
the Devil's Bridge, and Strata Florida Abbey. See Index. 



AMLWCH, 

IN ANGLESEA, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Mites. 

Beaumaris. 23 Llanerchymedd 7 

Holyhead 20 Llangefni 15£ 

Llanelian 1£ Menai Bridge 24J 

Is an irregular and dirty-looking town, with about 5000 in- 
habitants. In 1765 it was only a village, consisting of a 
dozen houses, but has rapidly increased, in consequence of 
its vicinity to the celebrated copper mines of Parys Mountain. 
The port from which the ore is conveyed to Liverpool, 
Swansea, and other places, is capable of containing about 
30 vessels. The entrance to it is formed by a chasm, cut 
through the rocks. Inn, Ty Mawr. 

At Camlyn Bay, 8 miles west from Amlwch, are quarries 
of marble. 



54 AMLWCH. 



PARYS MOUNTAIN. 

This celebrated mountain is about 2 miles from Amlwch. 
It possesses the largest copper mines in the world. They are 
supposed to have been known to the Romans, from the 
vestiges of their operations, and some ancient stone utensils, 
found on the spot. From the time of the Romans till 1764, 
they appear to have been quite neglected. Some copper was 
then discovered accidentally, and various experiments were 
made in search of the ore, without success, for many months. 
The proprietors were about to abandon the undertaking, when 
their agent made a final attempt in another part of the moun- 
tain, and discovered, within two yards of the surface, the 
vein of almost pure copper, which has been worked to the 
present day. This occurred March 2, 1768 ; a day which has 
ever since been observed as a festival by the miners. 

In order to see the mines to advantage, the stranger should 
go to the bottom, and be attended by a guide, without whom 
there would be considerable danger. The appearance from 
the top of the mountain has been thus described by Mr. 
Bingley :— 

" Having ascended to the top of the celebrated Parys 
Mountain, I stood upon the verge of a vast and tremendous 
chasm. I stepped upon one of the stages suspended over 
the edge of the steep, and the prospect was dreadful. The 
number of caverns, at different heights along the sides; the 
broken and irregular masses of rock, which every where pre- 
sented themselves; the multitudes of men at work in different 
parts, and apparently in the most perilous situations; the 
motions of the windlasses, and the raising and lowering of 
the buckets, to draw out the ore and the rubbish ; the noise 
of picking the ore from the rock, and of hammering the 
wadding, when it was about to be blasted ; with, at intervals, 
the roar of the blasts in distant parts of the mine, altogether 
excited the most sublime ideas, intermixed with sensations 
of terror. Leaving this situation, and following the road 
which leads into the mine, my astonishment was again ex- 



AUST PASSAGE INN. 55 

cited the moment I entered. The shagged arches and over- 
hanging rocks, which seemed to threaten annihilation to any- 
one daring enough to approach them, when superadded to 
the sulphureous smell arising from the kilns in which the 
ore is roasted, made it seem to me like the vestibule to 
Tartarus, described by Virgil. To look up from this situation 
and observe the people upon the stages, 150 feet above one's 
head ; to see the immense number of ropes and buckets, most 
of them in motion ; and to reflect, that a single stone casually 
thrown from above, or falling from a bucket, might in a 
moment destroy a fellow-creature, a man must have a strong 
mind not to feel impressed with many unpleasant sensations. 
The sides of this dreadful hollow are mostly perpendicular. 
Along the edges are the stages, with the whimsies by which 
the buckets are lowered, and from which the men descend 
to their stations upon the sides. Here suspended, the work- 
man picks, with an iron instrument, a place for a footing, 
whence he cuts out the ore, and tumbles it to the bottom, 
where it rests with a thundering crash. After working the 
place into a cavern, he removes to a new station." 

The Parys Mountain contains two mines ; the Mona y which 
is the property of the Marquess of Anglesea; and the Parys, 
which is held in shares. 

AUST PASSAGE INN, 

IN GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Beachley, across the Severn 1£ Chepstowr 4 J 

Bristol 11| 

The ferry at this spot has been materially improved within 
a few years. New piers have been erected and a steam-packet 
established, so that travellers may cross the Severn at any time 
of the tide. The ferry is separated from the inns on both 
sides, and is under the management of a superintendent. 



56 BALA. 

BALA, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Cerig y Druidion, on foot . 9£ Llanrhaiadyr yn Mochnant 16 

Corwen 11J London, by Llangynnog • • 194 

Corwen, by Llandrillo 13J London, by Llangollen 207 

Dinas Mowddu 17 Maentwrog 22 

Dolgelley 17 Mallwyd 19 

Festiniog 19J PontyGlyn 7 

Llanfyllin 20 TanyBwlchlnn 22£ 

Llangynnog 11 

Bala is a neat, clean, and populous town, consisting of one 
principal street, with others crossing it at right angles. It 
contains about 2,500 inhabitants. This place is famous for 
the sale of woollens, stockings, gloves, and Welsh wigs. It is 
the residence of many genteel families, and the rendezvous of 
gentlemen who visit the neighbouring hills for the purpose of 
grouse shooting. 

On the south-east side of the town is an artificial mount, 
probably of Roman construction, called Tommen y Bala, which, 
in fine weather, is generally covered with knitters, who sit 
there to enjoy, the benefit of fresh air. There are two inns, the 
Bull's Head, and the White Lion. 

BALA LAKE^ PIMBLE MEER, OR LLYN TEGID. 

A quarter of a mile south of the town, is the largest lake in 
Wales, being four miles long, and, in some parts, more than 
half a mile broad. It is about 140 feet in depth, and is well 
stocked with fish, particularly perch, pike, roach, trout, eels, 
and shoals of that alpine fish, called gwyniad, from the white- 
ness of its scales. 

The shores are mountainous, but present no very striking 
scenery. Standing at the end nearest to Bala, the eye com- 
mands a view of both banks of the lake : the tops of the 
Arennigs are seen over one side, and the grand cliffy summit 
of Arran-Ben-Llyn over the other. In front, Cader Idris 
appears at a distance of twenty-two miles. The lake some- 



BANGOR. 57 

times overflows, and causes great devastation; but this only 
happens when the wind rushes from the mountain at the upper 
end. In stormy weather, when swollen by torrents, the water 
is driven to the height of seven or eight feet, covering the Vale 
of Edeirion, and threatening Bala with destruction. The river 
Dee rises from under Arran Ben Llyn, the high mountain to 
the west, and flowing through the lake, leaves it at the north- 
east extremity. 

The lake and fishery formerly belonged to Basingwerk 
Abbey, but are at present the property of Sir W, W. Wynne, 
without whose permission no person is allowed to use nets. 
Angling, however, is freely permitted, and the lake is much 
resorted to for this purpose. 

CASCADE OF THE TWRCH. 

This waterfall is situated between six and seven miles from 
Bala, on the right of the road to Dinas Mowddu. The bed of 
the torrent is filled with enormous masses of rock, piled one 
above another, and deeply worn by the constant action of the 
water, which boils and foams between them. A quarter of a 
mile above the fall is a craggy, perpendicular cliff, from which 
it is probable these rocks were detached. 

A little farther from Bala, the road to Dinas Mowddu 
proceeds across the Berwyn Mountains by the defile of Bwlch 
y Groes, or the Pass of the Cross, so named from a crucifix 
which formerly stood on its summit. 

BANGOR, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aber 5J London, by Chester 251 

Beaumaris, by the Ferry • • 3 Menai Bridge • • 2£ 

Beaumaris, by Menai Bridge 6£ Mona Inn 12 

Caernarvon 9 Penmaen Mawr : 8| 

CapelCurig 14| Plas Newydd '■ 5 

Conway 14J Port Penrhyn Ij 

Holyhead 24 Tyn y Maes 7 



London, by Shrewsbury • . 237 



D 2 



58 



BANGOR. 



Bangor is said to have derived its name from Bon chor, 
the beautiful choir. It is a small but neatly built city, with 
about 4,000 inhabitants ; and is much frequented in summer 
for sea-bathing. The erection of the Menai Bridge, in its 
vicinity, has also attracted many visiters, anxious to see one of 
the finest works of human skill. 

This place was formerly called Bangor Mawr, or Great 
Bangor, to distinguish it from Bangor Iscoed, in Flintshire. 
It is delightfully situated between two low ridges of slate rock, 
at the mouth of the Menai Strait, of the opposite shore of 
which it commands a fine view. From the beach may be seen 
the towers of Beaumaris Castle, with Baron Hill, the mansion 
of Lord Bulkeley, behind them. Puffin Island and the pro- 
montory of Orme's Head are seen to guard the entrance to the 
harbour, while the vast Penmaen Mawr, rising to the east, and 
numerous villages, lie stretched along the shore. 

The Cathedral is the principal structure of the place, but its 
situation below the level of the street gives it a very humble 
appearance. It is of Gothic architecture, and is dedicated to 
St. Deiniol, by whom the original building was founded, in 
525. The church was burnt down by Owen Glendower, 
in the reign of Henry IV., and remained in ruins for 
upwards of ninety years. The choir was then rebuilt by 
Bishop Dean, or Denni, in the reign of Henry VII.; and 
the tower and nave were added by Bishop Skeffington, in 
1532, as appears by an inscription over the west door. The 
choir was elegantly fitted up by Bishop Warren, during the 
last century, and adorned with a good organ, the gift of 
Dr. Lloyd. 

Here are the monuments of Bishops Glynn, Morgan, Ro- 
binson, Vaughan, and Rowlands ; and another, with a cross 
rleuri, in the south transept, attributed to Owen Glendower; 
but as he was buried at Monington, in Herefordshire, where 
he died, Mr. Pennant ascribes it to Owen Gwynedd, the prince 
of North Wales. 

Bangor is the oldest see in Wales, having been founded in 
516. It derived its principal revenues and immunities from 



BANGOR. 



59 



Anian, who was bishop in the reign of Edward I., and 
had the honour of baptising the young prince, born at Caer- 
narvon, who was afterwards Edward II. The city is governed 
by the bishop, whose steward holds the courts. 

The Free School was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey 
Glynn, on the site of a house of Black Friars. It has long 
enjoyed reputation as a training seminary for Oxford and 
Trinity College, Dublin. 

The environs are well cultivated and picturesque, and are 
interspersed with seats, amongst which is that of the bishop, 
near the cathedral. 

On a rocky eminence, about a quarter of a mile from 
Bangor, formerly stood a castle; no remains, however, of 
which exist. It was built by Hugh, Earl of Chester, in the 
reign of William Rufus. 

Bangor has a market on Friday. The principal inns are 
the Penrhyn Arms Hotel and the Albion. The Penrhyn Arms 
Hotel, situated about a mile from the town, is a noble 
mansion, erected for the accommodation of travellers, by 
G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. The windows at the back, and the 
pleasure-grounds, command a beautiful view of the town and 
bay of Beaumaris, the shores of Anglesea, Puffin Island, 
Ormes' Head, Penrhyn Castle, and Penrhyn Harbour. About 
100 beds are made up in this immense establishment. 

Coaches leave Bangor every day for Chester and Liverpool, 
passing through Conway, Abergeley, and Holywell ; for Holy- 
head, crossing the Menai Bridge; for Pwlheli, passing through 
Caernarvon ; and for Shrewsbury, passing by Capel Cerrig, 
Corwen, Llangollen, Chirk, and Oswestry. 

During the summer, a steam -packet goes daily, from 
Bangor {o Liverpool, calling for passengers at Garth Point 
and Beaumaris. 

Post-chaises and horses may be obtained at the inns, and 
cars may be hired at several places in the town. Boats also 
are let out for aquatic excursions. 

From Bangor, excursions may be made to Conway, Caer- 
narvon , Beaumaris, Aber, Port Penrhyn, Menai Bridge, Plas 



60 BANGOR-ISCOED. 

Newydd, Priestholme, or Puffin Island, Penrhyn Castle, the 
Llandegai Slate Quarries, and Snowdon, for which places 
see Index. 



BANGOR-ISCOED, 

IN FLINTSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Ellesmere 8 Ruabon 7 

Holt 7 Whitchurch 10J 

Overton 3 Wrexham 4| 

Is situated in a detached part of the county, on the banks 
of the Dee, over which is a stone bridge of five arches. A 
beautiful view, including the river, the church tower, and the 
bridge, is obtained from a spot about a hundred yards below 
the latter. 

Bangor Iscoed is chiefly celebrated as having been the site 
of a monastery, founded, it is supposed, by Lucius, son of 
Coel, the first Christian king in Britain, about the year 180. \ 
It is also said to have been a Roman station, called Bovium, 
or Bonium ; but no trace, either of monastery or Roman build- 
ing, is now visible. Inn, the George and Dragon. 

BARDSEY ISLAND, 

Called in Welsh, Ynys Enlli, the Island in the Current, is 
situated about two miles from the south-west point of Caer- 
narvonshire. It is two miles long and one broad, and contains f 
about 370 acres of land, of which a third portion is occupied 
by a mountain, affording sustenance only for sheep and rabbits. 
On the south-east side, which is the only one accessible, is a 
small harbour, capable of admitting vessels of thirty or forty 
tons. The inhabitants, about eighty in number, are chiefly 
employed in fishing, and, during the spring, in obtaining the 
eggs of various sea-fowl which frequent the rocks. Very- 
large but delicate oysters are obtained from the beds in the 
vicinity. 

The Light -house, erected about 1823 by the Trinity Society, 



BARMOUTH, OR ABERMAW. 61 

has a stately appearance. It is a square building, of Anglesea 
limestone, ninety-six feet in height, and is furnished with three 
tiers of lights, the lowest of which revolves. In fine weather 
this house commands a view of the whole of the South Welsh 
coast, as far as St. David's Head, which is upwards of sixty 
miles distant. 

This island was formerly noted for an Abbey, founded in 
516. To this spot Dubricius, after resigning the see of St. 
David's, retired, and died in 522. No vestiges of the abbey 
now exist. During the struggles between the English and the 
Welsh, Bardsey was styled by the poets the sanctuary of the 
saints, of whom they asserted twenty thousand were buried 
here. Dr. Fuller, on this, quaintly observes, "It would be 
more facile to find graves for as many saints, than saints for so 
many graves." The island now belongs to Lord Newborough, 
who paid it his first visit in 1825. 

The nearest town from which Bardsey Island can be visited 
is Pwllheli, about twenty-four miles distant. Visiters may, 
however, come here from the village of Aberdaron, which is 
only eight miles. 

BARMOUTH, or ABERMAW, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Dolgelley = 10 London < 219 

Harlech 10 Towyn 11 

This town is situated at the mouth of the river Maw, where 
the tide, at high water, forms a bay about a mile in breadth. 
The houses are built along the bottom and on the side of a 
steep hill, which is said to be a miniature resemblance of the 
rock of Gibraltar, or that of St. Kitt's in the West Indies. 
Many of them are arranged in tiers, one above another, so that 
the floors of one row are level with the chimneys of that in 
front, and are approached by flights of steps cut out of the rock. 
The sand-banks formed by the tides, immediately before the 



62 BEACHLEY. 

town, protect it from the inundations of the sea. The popula- 
tion amounts to 2000. 

A Chapel of Ease was erected here in 1830, in which service 
is performed in English as well as Welsh. There are also 
Meeting-houses. 

Barmouth is the only port in Merionethshire, but the 
entrance to it is difficult. An unsuccessful attempt was 
made, some years ago, to render it the depot for the manu- 
factures of North Wales, consisting principally of flannels and 
stockings. 

This town is much frequented as a bathing-place. The 
beach affords a good promenade; and the shore, being level 
for a considerable distance, is well adapted for riding. 

The Cors y Gedol Arms, or Red Lion, is a very good inn, 
and connected with it is a large lodging-house. Several bathing- 
machines are kept here. 

From Barmouth a delightful excursion may be made either 
along the banks of the Maw, or in a boat up the river, for about 
eight miles. The tourist should choose the time of high water, 
when the whole bed of the river being filled, renders the land- 
scapes extremely picturesque. Nothing appears wanting: there 
is every requisite of mountain and vale, wood and water, mea- 
dows and rocks, all arranged in beautiful order. SeeDoLGELLEY. 

About four miles from Barmouth, to the right of the road to 
Harlech, is Cors y Gedol, the baronial residence of the Vaughan 
family, surrounded by a fine wood. 

BEACHLEY, 

IN GLOUCESTERSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles, 

Aust Passage Inn .... lj Chepstow 3 

Bristol 13£ 

Is situated on the banks of the Severn, and is sometimes visited 
as a bathing-place. There is a ferry to the opposite shore. See 
Aust Passage Inn. 



63 
BEAUMARIS, 

IN ANGLESEA, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aber, across the sands • • • • 5^ Conway, by Menai Bridge- • 21 

Amlwch 23 Holyhead 25£ 

Bangor, by the ferry 3 London, by Shrewsbury 243 

Bangor, by Menai Bridge Q\ London, by Chester 258 

Caernarvon 11 Menai Bridge • 4 

Conway, by Aber Ferry • • 14£ Plas Newydd 6J 

Pronounced Bomorris, was originally called Porth Wygyr, 
and afterwards Bonover. It received its present name from 
Edward I., on account of its beautiful marine situation- It is 
the principal town in the island of Anglesea, and occupies a 
delightful position on the northern bank of the Menai Strait, 
where it opens into Beaumaris Bay. The houses are generally 
well built; and one of the streets, terminated by the Castle, is 
handsome. 

Beaumaris, being the county town, is occasionally enlivened 
by much company. During the summer it is visited for sea- 
bathing, for which the strand appears well adapted, the ground 
being firm, and the water very clear. Hot and cold baths were 
erected here in 1825. Between the town and the shore is the 
Green, a spacious and verdant level, forming a charming pro- 
menade, and affording an ever-changing scene, either in the 
passing and repassing of vessels when the tide is in, or in the 
crossing of horses and vehicles over the sands when the water 
has retired. 

The Castle, built by Edward I. in 1295, stands in the 
Bulkeley estate, close to the town, and covers a considerable 
space of ground. Its low situation, however, detracts from its 
importance. In form it approaches an oblong square, sur- 
rounded by massive embattled walls, flanked with circular and 
quadrangular towers. There are two entrances : one on the 
west side, consisting of a large pointed arch between two square 
towers; and the other on the east, towards the sea, bounded by 
two circular bastion towers. On the east side, also, is an 



64 BEAUMARIS. 

advanced work, called the Gunner's Walk, in which the rings 
employed for the mooring of vessels are still visible. In the 
centre of this enclosure stands the principal body of the castle, 
nearly of a square form, having a round tower at each angle, 
and another in the centre of each face. The area is an irregular 
octagon, about 180 feet from east to west, and 168 feet from 
north to south. The walls are ten feet thick. On the north 
side is the hall, seventy feet long and twenty-three broad, with 
five large windows fronting the inner side of the octagon; and 
on the east side are the remains of a chapel, with pointed 
arches and groined roof. A communication was made between 
the various parts of the inner court by a gallery, a considerable 
portion of which still remains. In this gallery are square 
holes, which appear to have had trap-doors leading to dungeons 
beneath. 

The Church is a handsome structure, consisting of a chan- 
cel, a nave, separated from the former by an elegant screen, 
and two aisles. The tower is embattled. In the chancel is a 
monument, said to have been removed from Llanvaes Abbey. 
It bears two recumbent figures of a knight and a lady, but to 
whose memory it was erected is unknown. 

To the left of the altar is a monument of white marble, 
executed by Westmacott, in memory of Lord Eulkeley, who 
died in 1822. On a half-pillar is a bust of his lordship, with 
an inscription. His widow is represented standing at the foot 
of the pillar in a dejected attitude, whilst a figure of Faith leans 
over her, and points at the same time towards her husband and 
heaven. To the right of the altar is a mural tablet, with a 
Latin inscription, in honour of Thomas, the sixth son of Sir 
Julius Csesar, who was Master of the Rolls in the time of 
Henry VIII. 

There is also a mural tablet in memory of David Hughes, 
who founded the free school: it was erected in 1812, at the 
expense of a few persons who had received their education in 
that establishment. 

In the vestry was buried Lady Beatrice Herbert, the 
daughter of the celebrated Lord Herbert of Cherbury. There 



BEAUMARIS* 65 

is also an inscription in honour of the Rev. Gronwy Davies, 
concluding with these quaint lines : — 

" Here lies learning, friendship, love, 
And innocency of the dove ; 
Within this grave, and in the dust, 
His ever-courteous body must 
Until the resurrection lie, 
Then he shall live, and Death shall die." 

The organ, clock, bells, and communion plate, were pre- 
sented to the church by Lord Bulkeley, whose arms adorn the 
front of the gallery. 

Contiguous to the church is the Free School, founded in 
1603, by David Hughes, Esq., who also endowed Alms-houses 
for six poor persons, to whom he granted annuities. His bene- 
volence was imitated by the late Lord Bulkeley, who added 
four to the original number. They are situated about a mile 
from the town, near the entrance to Baron Hill Park. 

The Town-hall, originally erected in 1563, was rebuilt at 
the beginning of the present century. It comprises a prison, 
shambles, and the finest ball-room in Wales. Beaumaris like- 
wise possesses a Custom-house, and a National School erected 
by public subscription, on ground given by the late Lord 
Bulkeley. This nobleman also constructed the beautiful road 
which passes along the shore from Beaumaris to the Menai 
Bridge. It was formed in 1804, at an expense of 3000/. In 
one of the bye streets is a curious old house, now occupied by 
several families. The hall has a rich stuccoed ceiling. 

The markets are held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and 
are well supplied. The population amounts to 2500. 

Inns. The Bull's Head and the Liverpool Arms. 

Beaumaris Bay, in front of the town, forms a well-sheltered 
harbour, affording ample protection to coasters and vessels of 
considerable burden, driven in here during the prevalence of 
northerly winds. When the tide is out, the greater part of the 
bay is left dry, and this is called the Lavan Sands. The word 
Lavan is a corruption of Traeth Talaven, or the fermenting 
heap, alluding to the ebullition of water in the quicksands. 



BEAUMARIS. 



BARON HILL, 



Immediately above the town, was the seat of the late Lord 
Bulkeley, to whom Beaumaris and its vicinity are indebted for 
so many improvements. At his death it descended to his 
nephew, R. B. Williams Bulkeley, Esq. It is delightfully 
situated on the declivity of a richly- wooded hill, having, in 
front, a lawn sloping towards the town and castle. The house 
was built from designs by Mr. Wyatt, and the grounds sur- 
rounding it are richly diversified by nature, and adorned by 
art. The view from this spot is truly enchanting. To the 
north the sea forms a magnificent bay between the coast of 
Lancashire and the Isle of Man, the Menai opening into it 
between Orme's Head and Priestholme. The water in front 
is bounded by an amphitheatre of mountains, forming three 
regular gradations ascending to the summit of the Snowdonian 
range. 

At a short distance north-east of the house is a monumental 
recess, containing an empty stone coffin. From an inscription 
it appears that it originally contained the remains of the Prin- 
cess Joan, daughter of King John, and wife of Llewelyn ap 
Jorwerth ; that she had been interred at Llanvaes Abbey, but 
that the coffin had in later days been removed and used as a 
watering-trough for cattle. The late Lord Bulkeley, to rescue 
it from such degradation, caused it to be placed in his park. 

LLANVAES ABBEY 

Formerly stood near the shore, about a mile to the north of 
Beaumaris. The few vestiges of it that now exist form the 
walls of a barn. This abbey is supposed to have been founded 
by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, about 1237, over the spot where his 
princess was interred. 

PENMON PRIORY. 

The remains of this building, situated about four miles 
north of Beaumaris, consist of the refectory and part of the 



BEDDGELART. 67 

| church. The priory was founded in the sixth century, and re- 
! established about 1220 by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth. 

PENMYNNYDD, 

j About five miles west of Beaumaris, is remarkable as the birth- 
! place of Owen Tudor, a private gentleman, who, having mar- 
ried Catherine, the widow of Henry V., became the ancestor of 
a line of monarchs. 

PRIESTHOLME, YNYS SEIRIOL, OR PUFFIN ISLAND, 

Is situated about five miles north of Beaumaris, and one from 
the shore. It is of an oval shape, one mile in length, and half 
a mile in breadth. Near the centre is an old square tower, 
supposed to have been a religious house connected with Penmon 
Priory. During the summer this island is visited by myriads 
of water-fowl, particularly puffins : these birds appear annually 
in the beginning of April; they lay but one egg, which is 
hatched by the male and female sitting alternately. About the 
middle of August they re-emigrate. During their stay great 
numbers of them are caught and pickled in small casks, which 
form a considerable source of traffic. 

BEDDGELART, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bettws 7 Penmorfa 8 

Caernarvon 12 Pont Aberglaslyn 1J 

Capel Curig 12 Snowdon (summit) 6 

Criccieth 11 Tan y Bwlch Inn 8| 

Llanberis 12 Tremadoc 6 

Maentwrog • 9 

Beddgelart, or Beddgelert, is a village delightfully situated 
in a beautiful tract of meadows, at the junction of three vales, 
near the confluence of the Glas Lyn, or Gwynant, and the Col- 
wyn. It is completely encircled by lofty mountains, above 
which rises the " cloud-capped Snowdon." An inn called the 
Goat or Beddgelart Hotel, standing detached from the village, 



68 BEDDGELART. 

affords excellent accommodation to the tourist. This is a good 
point from which to visit Snowdon, and here guides for that 
purpose may be obtained. 

The Church is small, but it is the loftiest in Snovvdonia. It 
is supposed to have belonged to a priory of Augustines, found- 
ed by Bishop Anian in the thirteenth century ; but antiquaries 
differ as to its origin. Tradition ascribes it to Llewelyn the 
Great, of whom the following story is related : — It is said, that i 
during the hunting season he came to reside at Beddgelart 
with his wife and children, and that one day, the family being 
absent, a wolf entered the house. On returning, his greyhound 
Gelart or Ciliart met him, wagging his tail, but smeared with 
blood. The prince, being alarmed, ran into the nursery, and 
found the cradle overturned and the ground covered with 
blood. Imagining that the greyhound had killed the child, he 
immediately drew his sword and slew him ; but, on turning up 
the cradle, he found under it the child alive and the wolf dead. 
This so affected the prince, that he erected a tomb over the 
grave of his faithful dog, where the parish church was after- 
wards built, and called, from this circumstance, Beddgelart, or 
Gelart's grave. Mr. Spencer's poem on this subject is well 
known. 

From Beddgelart the tourist may visit Pont Arerglaslyn. 

NANT GWYNNED OR NANT WYNAN, 

Running north-east from Beddgelart, is by far the most beau- 
tiful of the vales amidst the mountains surrounding this place. 
It is about six miles long, and affords a great variety of woods, 
lakes, and meadows. On the left, about one mile and a half up 
the valley, stands a lofty rock called Ddinas E?nrys, the fort of 
Ambrosius or of Merlin Emiys, a magician who was sent for to 
this place from Caermarthen, by Vortigern. To this spot, it is 
said, Vortigern retired when he found himself despised by his 
subjects and unable to contend with the treacherous Saxons 
whom he had introduced into his kingdom. 

A little further is a pool called Llyn y Ddinas, bounded by 
naked hills ; and, two miles beyond, is Cwm Llan, a romantic 



BEDDGELART. 69 



j hollow running into the mountains on the left towards 
SSnowdon. 

A short distance further is another pool, called Llyn Gwy- 
\nant ; beyond which the vale changes its name to Cwm Dyli, 
in which is a cataract called Rhaiadyr Cwm Dyli. This fall is 
seldom visited by tourists, though well entitled to attention. It 
consists of five distinct cascades, falling together upwards of 230 
feet : the first, beginning at the bottom, is a rapid rather than a 
fall; the second, just above it, is about twenty feet perpendicu- 
lar; the third is about sixty feet, falling into a basin; the fourth, 
at a short distance from the preceding, is not so high, but is 
i more deeply seated in the side of the hill ; the last, which ap- 
pears the highest fall, is divided into two parallel streams by a 
long rock. About a mile and a half to the west of Cwm Dyli 
is Llyn Llydau, the shores of which are remarkably indented 
and surrounded by prodigious mountains. 

The road from Beddgelart to Capel Curig runs through the 
whole of this vale, which is bounded on the left by the bases of 
Snowdon. 

DRWS Y COED, 

Or the Door of the Wood, is a farm about five miles from 
Beddgelart, romantically situated at a short distance to the left 
of the road towards Caernarvon. The view of Snowdon from 
this spot is said by Mr. Pennant to be better than any other ; 
its remote situation, however, prevents it frOm being much 
visited. Near it are two lakes, Llyn y Dywarchen and Llyniau 
Nantle. On the former, near the shore, is a small floating 
island. Here Edward I. encamped his army when he com- 
pleted the subjugation of Wales. 

LLYN CWELLYN 

Is situated about five miles from Beddgelart, on the left of the 
road towards Caernarvon. It is a small lake formerly called 
Llyn Tarddemi, and is noted for Torgoch or Red Belly, a spe- 
cies of char. At the south end of the lake Castell Cidwm, or 
the Wolf's Castle, a portion of the rugged Mynydd Mawr 



70 BETTWS Y COED. 

forms a striking object. On the other side are the vast grassy 
hills of Moel Eilio. On the right of the road is a small house, 
where guides to Snowdon may be obtained. See Snowdon. 

Two miles nearer to Beddgelart is Llyn y Gader, a lonely 
lake, bounded by finely broken hills. A rock near it, on the 
side of the road, is called Pitt's Head. The profile forms a 
tolerable face, though not a striking likeness of the celebrated 
statesman. 

About a mile beyond Llyn Cwellyn, on the road to Caer- 
narvon, is Nant Mill, with its picturesque cascade and bridge, 
situated in a very pretty valley. This is a favourite subject 
with artists. 

BETTWS Y COED, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

CapelCurig 5 Llanrwst 3 

Cernioge Mawr 9J 

Or the Station in the Wood, is a small village with an inn, 
situated on the Holyhead road, near the junction of the Llugwy 
with the Conwy. In the church is an old monument in memory 
of David, brother of Prince Llewelyn. 

About a mile from this place is the Waterloo Bridge, a 
single arch of iron 105 feet in the span, erected from designs 
by Mr. Telford. On the main rib is an inscription, in raised 
letters, recording that it was built the same year the battle of 
Waterloo was fought. It carries the Holyhead road over the 
river Conwy. 

BISHOP'S CASTLE, 

IN SHROPSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles 

Knighton 12£ Newtown 16 

Ludlow 17 Shrewsbury 21 

Montgomery 9 

Is a small but neat town, on an eminence near the Clun riv€ 



BLACK ROCK INN. — BRECON, OR BRECKNOCK. 71 

It has the ruins of a Castle, in the precincts of which a Bowling- 
green has been formed, and a Town-house. The Church is situ- 
ated just below the town. Inn. — The Castle. 

BLACK ROCK INN, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caerwent 4 Chepstow 5 

Caldecot Castle 2 New Passage Inn 2f 

Is situated on the west shore of the Severn, opposite to New 
Passage Inn. The landing place, at low water, consists of 
slippery rocks covered with various marine plants. 

About half a mile distant is Charstone Rock, an islet in the 
Severn, on which Roman coins have been discovered. 

BRECON, or BRECKNOCK, 

IN BRECKNOCKSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Abergavenny 20 Llandilo Vawr, by Llandovery 34 J 

Builth 16£ Llandovery 20 

Caerdiff, by Merthyr 42£ London, by Monmouth 167 

Cowbridge, by Merthyr • • 42 London, by Hereford 168 

Crickhowell 131 Merthyr Tydvil 18J 

Glasbury 11 Neath, by Pont Neath Vaughan 32 

Glyn Neath 25 Pont Neath Vaughan 20 

Hay 15J Trecastle 11 

Is called by the Welsh Aber Honddu, from its situation at the 
junction of that river with the Usk. It is the chief town of the 
county, and possesses about 4500 inhabitants. It was formerly 
surrounded by a wall, and had four gates, — High Gate, West 
Gate, Water Gate, and East Gate. Besides these, there was 
another in the suburb called Porthene S. Marise. The track of 
the wall is still visible, and small portions of it are yet standing. 
On the outside was a deep ditch or fosse, which was occasion- 
ally filled with water. 



72 BRECON, OR BRECKNOCK. 

Brecon is almost overlooked, on the south-east, by a hill 
called Slwch Tump. To the north is another eminence, called 
Pen y Crug, gradually sloping towards the town, so that a tra- 
veller approaching Brecon from Hay or Builth, sees it below 
him. On the south side is Cantraff, and a woody declivity 
called Clos y Coed. The town consists principally of three 
handsome streets, in the most spacious of which are the County 
Hall and Market Place. The entire length of the town, includ- 
ing the suburb of Llanvaes, is about a mile, and its greatest 
breadth 1200 feet. Its compact form and neatness render it 
superior to most places in Wales. " Few towns," says Sir 
Richard C. Hoare, "surpass Brecknock in picturesque beau- 
ties; the different mills and bridges on the rivers Usk and 
Honddu, the ivy-mantled walls and towers of the old castle, the 
massive embattled turret and gateway of the priory, with its 
luxuriant groves, added to the magnificent range of mountain 
scenery on the south side of the town, form, in many points of 
view, the most beautiful, rich, and varied outline imaginable." 
Mr. Gilpin also says, " I have seen few places where a land- 
scape-painter might get a better collection of ideas." 

On an eminence at the east end of Brecon are some trifling 
remains of the Castle, one of the earliest structures of this de- 
scription in Wales. It was built by Bernard de Newmarch, a 
Norman nobleman, about 1094, and was bounded on two sides 
by the Honddu, which separates it from the town. Its original 
form is still distinctly visible : it was an oblong square, 300 
feet in length, and 240 in breadth. The Keep was called Ely 
Tower, from having been the prison of Morton, bishop of Ely, 
and the supposed scene of his conference with the Duke of 
Buckingham respecting the union of the houses of York and 
Lancaster. Morton had been sent here by order of Richard 
III., and committed to the custody of Henry Stafford, Duke of 
Buckingham, who had some time before secured the crown to 
Richard. The duke, however, being disappointed in his 
expectations of reward from the king, planned, in concert with 
the bishop his prisoner, the union which brought Henry VII. 
to the throne of England. 



BRECON, OR BRECKNOCK. 73 

Of the priory or monastery little remains except an embat- 
I tied wall. It was originally founded for Benedictines, by Ber- 
nard de Newmarch, in the reign of Henry I. The Mansion 
> House, now called the Priory, belongs to the Marquess of 
Camden. 

The Church of St. John the Evangelist, formerly belonging 
to the Prioiy, was either entirely erected or considerably im- 
proved by Bernard de Newmarch. The existence of a Saxon 
font, and of some other relics of a similar character, tends to 
support the latter idea. The Church, when first constructed, 
was most probably exactly cruciform, but has been considerably 
disfigured by guild chapels in the interior, and private oratories 
on the outside. The nave is 137 feet in length, and 29 in 
breadth. The western end is intersected by a transept divided 
into two chapels, called the Chapel of the Men of Battle, and 
the Chapel of the Normans or Red-haired Men. Over the 
intersection of the transept rises the steeple, a massive and 
lofty structure, thirty feet square within the walls, containing 
six bells. The chancel is now divided from the body of the 
church by a gallery, formerly the rood loft. On each side of it 
are three rows of light clustered columns, broken off just above 
the corbels. The tombs in this church are very numerous, but % 
their inscriptions present nothing remarkable. 

The College, once a Dominican Priory, stands at the east 
end of Brecon, and appears as old as the time of Bernard de 
Newmarch, who is said to have been its founder. Part of a 
quadrangular gateway still remains, as well as a cloister, the 
refectory of St. Mary's Chapel, the ancient choir, and the 
burial-place. Henry VIII. converted this priory into a college, 
called the College of Christ Church, Brecknock, and united it 
with that of Abergeley. Attached to this institution is a Free 
Grammar School, from which young men are ordained, without 
the necessity of graduating at either University. 

St. Mary's Church was originally built about the end of the 

twelfth century, but the present edifice does not appear to have 

j been erected till the beginning of the sixteenth century. The 

! E 



74 BRECON, OR BRECKNOCK. 

steeple was constructed in the reign of Henry VIII. It is about 
ninety feet in height, and contains eight bells. 

St. David's Church is a neat edifice situated near the Col- 
lege, on the north side of the Usk. 

Brecon is particularly distinguished by two public walks : 
one lies along the shore of the Usk, and commands a fine view 
to the south of that river; the other, called the Priory Walks, is 
of a more sequestered character, being laid out with great taste 
through the Priory woods, which overhang the Honddu, and 
add greatly to its romantic beauties. 

The Town Hall was erected in 1770. Outside the town is 
the County Jail, built on Mr. Howard's plan. The Arsenal, 
situated in that part of the town called Watton, is a substantial 
brick building, erected by order of the government in 1805. It 
contains an armoury for 15,000 men. 

Mrs. Siddons, the tragic actress, was a native of Brecon. 
She was bom in 1755, at a public-house, called the Shoulder 
of Mutton, situated in the same street as the Arsenal. 

The principal inns are, the Bell, the Castle, the Swan, and 
the Lion. The market days are Wednesdays and Saturdays. 



About two miles north-west of Brecon, was one of the 
earliest stations of the Romans in Britannia Secunda. It is 
situated upon the angle between the rivers Usk and Iskir, 
commanding a view of the former, and is a parallelogram, 624 
feet by 426. Traces of the walls are still visible, though 
overgrown with underwood. Many Roman bricks have been 
discovered within the camp, inscribed Leg. II. Aug. 

Close to this camp, on the side of the road from Brecon, is 
Maen y Morwynion, or Maiden Stone, a rudely-sculptured 
pillar, about six feet in height, on which are represented a 
Roman citizen and his wife. 

LANGORS POOL, OR LLYNSYVADDON, 

About five miles south-east of Brecon, is the largest lake in 



BRIDGEND, OR PEN Y PONT. 75 

Wales, except Bala. It is two miles in length, but varies 
considerably in breadth, and its shores are so irregular that a 
walk along its margin is upwards of six miles. The lake is 
bounded on one side by precipitous mountains, and on the 
other, by pasturage and groves. It contains pike, perch, 
and trout. 

TREVECCA, 

About nine miles east of Brecon, is remarkable from having 
been the residence of Selina, Countess of Huntingdon, who 
formed an establishment here for the education of preachers. 
Here also lived Howel Harris, who was the friend of White- 
field, and first introduced Methodism into Wales. 



BRIDGEND, OR PEN Y PONT, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. , 

Caerdiff 20 Margam 83 

Cowbridge 8 Neath, by Pyle Inn 19| 

Ewenny Priory • ■ • 2 Pyle Inn 7 

Llantrissent 7 

Is a straggling little town, situated on the banks of the 
Ogmore, over which is a stone bridge. It is divided into 
three parts, Old Castle, so called from an ancient fortress 
which stood near the chapel, Bridgend, and New Castle. The 
churchyard commands a fine view of the surrounding country. 
Considerable quantities of flannel and Welsh shawls are made 
here. The market is held on Saturday. 

OGMORE CASTLE, 

About a mile and a half from Bridgend, is situated on the 
east bank of the river Ogmore, and one mile from its. mouth. 
Its ruins are inconsiderable, consisting only of the keep and 
some outer walls. This castle is of great antiquity, being 
mentioned by Caradoc as having existed in the time of Wil- 
liam Rufus. At a short distance south-east of the castle, are 



76 BRISTOL. 

several pits, or shallows, filled with water, which are said to 
have sunk spontaneously. 

COITY, OR COETTY, 

A village two miles north-east of Bridgend, is remarkable for 
the remains of a castle, built by Sir Paganus de Sourberville, 
in 1091. . 

BRISTOL, 

IN SOMERSETSHIRE, 



Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aust Passage Inn 11| Gloucester 34£ 

Beachley iat London 119 

Chepstow, by Aust Passage 16£ New Passage 10J 

Chepstow, by steam-packet, 
about 2 hours. 






Is a good situation from which to commence a Tour of 
Wales, as there are steam-vessels constantly going to Chep- 
stow, Swansea, Newport, and Tenby; and coaches to those 
places, as well as to Brecon, Abergavenny, Hereford, Mon- 
mouth, Llandrindod, &c. 

The principal objects in this city, worthy the attention of 
strangers, are, the Cathedral, containing numerous monuments; 
St. Mary Redcliffe, one of the handsomest parochial churches 
in the kingdom; the Docks and Quay; the Commercial 
Rooms, in Com Street; the City Library; the Literary and 
Philosophical Institution, in Park Street; and the Council 
House, opposite the Exchange. 

The principal inns are, the Bush, the Talbot, the White 
Hart. 

About a mile distant is the romantic village of Clifton, 
situated on a lofty rock, overhanging the Avon, and cele- 
brated for its hot wells. St. Vincent's Rocks, which here 
border the river, have long been renowned for their romantic 
grandeur. 

About five miles from Bristol, on the left of the road to- 
wards Aust Passage, is Henbury, where several pretty cottages, 



BRITTON, OR BRITON FERRY. BUILTH. 77 

from designs by Wyatt, have recently been erected, for the 
reception of persons who have seen better days. 

Another excursion may be made to Leigh Court, three 
miles distant, which contains a fine collection of pictures. 

For a more minute account of Bristol and Clifton, the 
reader may consult " Leigh's Road Book of England and 
Wales." 

BRITTON, OR BRITON FERRY, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Margam • • • • • 7j Swansea, across the sands • • 5 

Neath 2£ 

This village is much visited on account of its delightful 
situation at the mouth of the river Neath, a stream which here 
emerges in a fine sweep between high woody banks, inter- 
spersed with naked cliffs. It is rendered interesting chiefly 
by the plantations of the Earl of Jersey, late Lord Vernon's, 
which are well disposed, and descend to the water's edge. 
The climate in this part of Wales is so mild, that myrtles, 
magnolias, and other tender exotics, grow luxuriantly in the 
open air. 

The churchyard is much admired, and the custom of 
planting evergreens over the graves of departed friends, and 
adorning them with flowers at certain seasons of the year, is 
here attended to with peculiar care. 

Briton Ferry has a good inn, which is much frequented by 
summer parties from Neath and Swansea. 

BUILTH, OR BUALT, 

IN BRECKNOCKSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Brecon 16£ Newtown 29 

Glasbury 11 Penybont ... 10 

Hay 15£ Presteign, by New Radnor 19i 

Llandovery 22£ Radnor (New) 11$ 

Llandrindod 7 Rhaiadyr 14 

Llanwrtyd 14 Tregaron 31J 

London 173 



78 BUILTH, OR BUALT. 

Is a neat market-town, situated on the north-west side of 
the county, on the banks of the river Wye, over which is a 
handsome stone bridge. It consists of two parallel streets, 
which form irregular terraces on the side of a steep declivity. 
The principal of these streets is very near the river, but 
extremely narrow; and the houses are generally mean and 
irregularly built. Notwithstanding these imperfections, Builth 
is much frequented. The salubrity of the air, the beauty of its 
situation upon one of the finest rivers of South Wales, and the 
splendour of the surrounding scenery, have induced many 
families to fix their residence in its vicinity. It is also much 
resorted to on account of the great quantity of game with 
which the neighbouring hills and woods abound, and the 
abundance of trout, grayling, and salmon, with which the 
streams are stocked. 

The Church, with the exception of the steeple, is a modern 
building. It is situated on the western side of the town, and 
is dedicated to St. Mary. There are several Meeting-houses. 

At the east end of the town are the remains of the Castle. 
The site of the keep is about 150 feet in circumference. It 
appears to have been surrounded by a ditch ; and on the south 
side were two trenches. History has not transmitted to us the 
name of its founder, or the time of its erection. It was probably 
erected in the eleventh century by Bernard de Newmarch. 

Builth has a claim to great antiquity, being the same that 
Ptolemy calls the Ballseum Silurum of the Romans. In the 
neighbourhood are several entrenchments, the most remarkable 
of which is on the road towards Brecon. 

The death of Llewelyn ap Gruffyd, which put a period to 
the independency of the Welsh, and to their royal line of 
princes, took place in consequence of the treachery of the 
inhabitants of Builth. The circumstances connected with this 
event, which occurred December 11th, 1282, are only pre- 
served by tradition. Llewelyn had posted his army on a hill 
near Llechryd, a village below Builth, on the south side of the 
Wye. On the north side of the river, two or three miles 
below Builth, the prince had a house, called Aberedw, to 



CADER IDRIS. 79 

which he came to confer with some chieftains of the country. 
Alarmed at the approach of the English troops, he took to 
flight, and caused his horse's shoes to be reversed, to deceive 
his pursuers, as the snow was on the ground; but this cir- 
cumstance was made known to the enemy by the treachery of 
the farrier; and they followed so closely, that Llewelyn had 
but just time to pass the drawbridge at Bualt. In the mean 
time, the English troops, posted at Aberedw, received in- 
formation of a ford lower down, called Cam Twm Bach, 
which they crossed, and came between Llewelyn and his army 
at Llechryd. The Welsh prince now attempted to secrete 
himself, but was soon discovered in a dingle, three miles north 
of Builth, since called Cwm Llewelyn. Having cut off his 
head, they buried his body in a field, called Cafan, two 
miles from Builth, where a farm-house was afterwards erected, 
known by the name of Cevn y Bedd. 

The water-mill at Aberedw is a pleading object for the 
artist. The whole spot is very romantic, and well worth the 
walk, about three miles. 

The population of Builth amounts to upwards of 1000. 
The market day is Monday. Inns, the King's Head and the 
Royal Oak. 

THE PARK WELLS 

Are situated upon the borders of a large forest, about a mile 
and a half north-west of Builth. There are three springs, a 
saline, a sulphureous, and a chalybeate, each particularly strong 
of its kind; and they are furnished with a commodious 
pump-room and other apartments, in one of which the com- 
pany occasionally amuse themselves with dancing. Con- 
tiguous to the pump-room is a small lodging-house. There is 
also a sulphur bath. 

CADER IDRIS, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Dinas Mowddu • • • 7 Machynlleth 17 

Dolgelley 4 Towyn 16 



80 CADER IDRIS. 

Is the parent of the Merionethshire mountains, and rises 
2850 feet above the neighbouring town of Dolgelley. It 
derives its name, according to tradition, from Idris, who is 
said to have been a prince of this district in former times, and 
to have had a fortress here. He is also represented as a great 
poet, astronomer, and philosopher; and it is asserted that the 
summit of Cader Idris was his favourite observatory. 

This mountain commences on the sea shore, close upon the 
north side of the estuary of the small river Disynwy, about a 
mile from Towyn. It proceeds with almost a constant ascent, 
first northwards, for about three miles; then, for ten miles 
further, runs east-north-east, giving out from its summit a 
branch nearly three miles long, in a south-westerly direction, 
parallel to the main ridge. It is very steep and craggy on 
every side ; but the southern descent, especially to the border 
of Talyllyn Lake, is the most precipitous, being nearly per- 
pendicular. Its breadth bears but a small proportion to its 
length ; a line passing along its base and intersecting the 
summit, would scarcely equal four miles and a half; and in 
the other parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever 
exceeds one mile in breadth. 

Cader Idris is the beginning of a chain of primitive 
mountains, extending in a north-north-east direction, and in- 
cluding the Arrans and the Arennigs. It is much loftier and 
more craggy than the slate and secondary mountains which 
surround it. 

Cader Idris is usually ascended from Dolgelley, and we 
shall, therefore, insert Mr. A. Aikin's account of an excursion 
to it from that town. The tourist will find it necessary to have 
a guide. See Dolgelley. The ascent, however, is not so 
difficult as that of Snowdon. 

" The day being promising, we set off after breakfast to 
examine this mountain. A small lake, called Llyn y Gader, 
lies about a mile and a half on the high road to Towyn, which 
having arrived at, we quitted the road and began our ascent. 
In this lake is found the lobelia dortmanna, narthecium ossifra- 
gum, the elegant nymphsea lutea, and aromatic nymphaeaalba. 



CADEIt IDRIS. 81 

" When we had surmounted the exterior ridge, we de 
scended a little to a deep clear lake, which is kept constantly 
full by the numerous tributary torrents which fall down the 
surrounding rocks. Hence we climbed a second and still 
higher chain, up a steep but not difficult track, over numerous 
fragments of rock, detached from the higher parts: we now 
came to a second and more elevated lake, called Llyn y Cae, 
clear as glass, and overlooked by steep cliffs, in such a manner 
as to resemble the crater of a volcano, of which a most accurate 
representation may be seen in Wilson's excellent view of 
Cader Idris. Some travellers have mentioned the finding lava 
and other volcanic productions here ; on a strict examination, 
however, we were unable to discover any thing of the kind, 
nor did the water of the lake appear to differ in any respect 
from the purest rock water, though it was tried repeatedly with 
the most delicate chemical tests. A clear, loud, and distinct 
echo repeats every shout which is made near the lake. Here 
also grows the narthecium ossifragum, and on the surrounding 
rocks, rumex digynus, rhodiola rosea, thalictrum minus, t. al- 
pinum, lycopodium selagonoides, and 1. clavatum. The waters 
of this lake cover an extent of fifty acres, abounding with trout 
and other fish . 

" We now began our last and most difficult ascent up the 
summit of Cader Idris itself. The loose columnar stones lie 
about in all directions, assuming, in many places, so regular 
an appearance, that they might be mistaken for Druidic re- 
mains ; some of them stand erect, like Maen hirion, and one 
is dignified with the title Llech Idris. Nearer the summit, 
numerous masses of irregular figures present themselves. 
Having gained this ascent, a small plain forms the base to two 
eminences or rocky heads, of nearly equal height, one lying 
towards the north, called Tyrrau Mavor; the other, to the 
south, called Pen y Gader. We made choice of the latter, 
which appeared the most elevated, and seated ourselves upon 
its highest pinnacle to rest, after a laborious ascent of three 
hours. We were now above all the eminences within a vast 
expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared away, caught 
e 2 



82 CADER IDRIS. 

some grand views of the surrounding country. The huge 
rocks, which we before looked up to with astonishment, were 
now far below our feet, and many a small lake appeared in the 
valleys between them. To the north, Snowdon and its de- 
pendencies shut up the scene ; on the west, we saw the whole I 
curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance by 
the Caernarvon mountains, and nearer, dashing its white 
breakers against the rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern , 
horizon was bounded by Plinlimmon, the bay of Swansea, the 
channel, peeping through the openings of the Brecon moun- 
tains ; and, on the east, the eye glanced over the Lake of Bala, 
the two Arennig mountains, the two Arrans, and the long 
chain of the Ferwyn mountains, to the Bred din hills on the 
confines of Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, was 
beheld the Wrekin, rising alone from the plain of Salop. 

" Having satisfied our curiosity, and being thoroughly 
chilled by the keen air of these elevated regions, we began to 
descend down the side opposite to that which we had come 
up. The first stage led us to another beautiful mountain lake, 
the cold clear waters of which discharge their superabundance 
in a stream down the side of the mountain. All these lakes 
abound with trout; and in some is found the gwynaid, a fish 
peculiar to rocky alpine lakes. Following the course of the 
stream, we came upon the edge of the craggy cliffs which 
overlook Talyllyn Lake ; a long and difficult descent conducted 
us, at last, to the borders of Talyllyn, where we entered the 
Dolgelly road." 

The following is Mr. Warner's description of the view 
from the summit of this mountain: 

" The afternoon was gloriously fine, and the atmosphere 
perfectly clear, so that the vast unbounded prospect lay be- 
neath us unobscured by cloud, vapour, or any other inter* 
ruption to the astonished and delighted eye, which threw its 
glance over a varied scene, including a circumference of at 
least five hundred miles. To the north-west is seen Ireland, 
like a distant mist upon the ocean ; and a little to the right, 
Snowdon and the other mountains of Caernarvonshire. Fur- 



CADER IDRIS. 83 

ther on, in the same direction, the Isle of Man, the neigh- 
bourhood of Chester, Wrexham, and Salop ; the sharp head of 
the Wrekin, and the undulating summit of the Clee hills. To 
the south we have the country round Clifton, Pembrokeshire? 
St. David's, and Swansea ; and to the westward, a vast 
prospect of the British Channel unfolds itself, which is 
bounded only by the horizon. Exclusive of these distant 
objects, the nearer views are wonderfully striking. Num- 
berless mountains, of different forms, appearances, and ele- 
vation, rise in all directions around us, which, with the various 
harbours, lakes, and rivers, towns, villages, and seats, scattered 
over the extensive prospect, combine to form a scene inex- 
pressibly august, diversified, and impressive." 

The peak of Cader Idris consists of silicious porphyry, 
quartz, and felspar, enclosed in a green paste, with silicious 
schistose porphyry intersected with veins of quartz and argil- 
laceous porphyry in a mass, and a dark grey paste. Besides, 
several rocks contain the component parts of granite and por- 
phyry, with a great proportion of white greasy-looking quartz. 
In several specimens, the felspar being decomposed, has fallen 
out, and given the quartz a porous appearance. 

At the summit of Cader Idris is a small cottage, erected 
by Richard Pugh, the Dolgelley guide, for the accommodation 
of visitors ; it having frequently happened, that persons had 
no sooner attained the top of the mountain than they were 
overtaken by clouds, showers, or a thunder storm, and com- 
pelled to descend without enjoying the prospect. To obviate 
this inconvenience the cottage has been erected, and here a 
large party may take refreshment without being exposed to the 
inclemency of the weather. Here also parties may wait to see 
the sun either rise or set. The key of the cottage can only be 
obtained of Mr. Pugh, or at the Golden Lion, Dolgelley. 

The guide charges 5s. to conduct a party from Dolgelley to 
the summit, and 5s. for each of the ponies employed in the 
ascent. 



84 



CAERDIFF. 



CAERDIFF, 



GLAMORGANSHIRE. 



Distant from Miles. Bistantfrom Miles. 

Caerphilly 7 London, by Oxford 157 

Cowbridge 12J Merthyr Tydvil 24 

Llandaff 2£ Newport 11£ 

Llantrissent, by Llandaff. • 11 PontyPridd 12 

London, by Bristol 159 

Caerdiff, Cardiff, or Caerdyv, the county town, derives its 
name from Caer, a fortress, and from its position at the junc- 
tion of the Great and Little lav, or Taaf, the plural of lav 
being Tyv, which has been corrupted to its present termina- 
tion. It is a neat and well-built town, situated on a low but 
fertile flat near the mouth of the river, over which is a bridge, 
consisting of three large and two smaller arches, erected by 
Mr. Parry, in 1796. One of the streets extends in a southerly 
direction nearly from the Castle to the Quay. On the banks of 
the Canal some portion of the old walls is still visible. 

The level tract between the town and the Severn used 
frequently to be overflowed at spring tides, but is now secured 
by a sea wall, which has converted an extensive piece of salt 
marsh into fresh land. 

The Castle still forms an interesting object, although it has 
lost much of its baronial grandeur by modern alterations : the 
entrance to it is near the centre of the town. About 1091, 
Robert Fitzhamon, a Norman chief, and kinsman of Wil- 
liam I., having conquered Glamorganshire, parcelled it out 
to twelve knights who had accompanied him, as the reward 
of their services ; and reserved to himself the town of 
Caerdiff. In 1110, he built the Castle, where he resided and 
held his courts. In a dungeon of the tower, to the left of the 
entrance, Robert, Duke of Normandy, brother to William 
Rums, is said to have been confined for the long term of 
twenty-six years, after having been deprived of his sight and 
inheritance by his younger brother Henry I. This dungeon is 
a vaulted room about fifteen feet square ; an aperture in the 



CAERDIFF. 85 

top, about eighteen inches long and four or five wide, was the 
only means of admitting air. 

The Keep stands on an artificial mound in the centre of 
a spacious lawn. It is of octagon form, seventy-five feet in 
diameter, and is still very perfect. From this spot, as well 
as from the ramparts, which are now planted with shrubs and 
laid out in walks, there are fine views of the surrounding 
country. 

A part of the Castle was repaired and modernised some 
years ago by the late Marquess of Bute. In this portion are 
numerous portraits of the Windsor family, several of which 
were painted by Kneller, and one by Vandyke. There is also 
a picture representing boys playing at cards, by Holbein. 

In May, 1645, during the civil war, the Castle was occu- 
pied by the troops of Charles I., but it surrendered to the 
parliament forces before August, 1646, having been bombarded 
by Cromwell on three successive days. 

The Church, dedicated to St. John, is of Norman architec- 
ture, with a rich and handsome door at the west end. The 
tower, which is more modern, having been erected in the reign 
of Edward III., and repaired in 1811, is surmounted by four 
Gothic pinnacles. It is much admired, and forms a conspicuous 
feature in the distant views of the town. On the front is a 
statue of Edward III. Within the church is a monument of 
black and white marble, in honour of Sir William and Sir John 
Herbert. 

In this town, Robert, Earl of Gloucester, who died in 1147, 
founded a Priory of White Friars, and another of Black Friars, 
which continued till the dissolution, in 1536. Only the shell 
of the White Friars is now to be seen, and the ruins of the 
Black Friars' house are in the occupation of fishermen. 

The Town Hall is a modern building, in the centre of the 
street leading towards the Quay. Outside the town, on the road 
towards Newport, is the County Gaol, erected in 1830. 

Caerdiff carries on a considerable trade, for which its harbour 
affords great facilities. Vessels of 300 or 400 tons can come 
up to the town. The Caerdiff Canal extends from this town to 



86 CAERDIFF. 

Merthyr Tydvll, whence large quantities of iron and coal are 
brought down to Caerdiff and exported to the English market. 
The head of the canal is 560 feet higher than the tide-lock 
at Caerdiff. 

Three miles below the town is Penarth Harbour, a con- 
venient station for vessels detained in the Bristol Channel by 
westerly winds. It is formed by the junction of the three 
rivers, Taaf, Ely, and Rumney. 

Races are held in October, and generally attract much com- 
pany. Balls are also occasionally given, and are well attended. 
The Inns are numerous, but the principal are the Caerdiff 
Arms and the Angel. The population is about 4000. 

THE MELIN GRUFFYTH IRON AND TIN WORKS 

Are situated on the banks of the Taaf, between three and 
four miles north of Caerdiff. They are amongst the largest 
tin works in the kingdom. 



About six miles west of Caerdiff, to the left of the road 
towards Cowbridge, is remarkable for several Druidical 
remains. 

taff's well 

Is the name given to a spring situated in the middle of 
the river Taaf, or Taff, between Caerdiff and Pont y Pridd. 
It was formerly walled round, so as to keep its water separate 
from that of the river, and was said to be efficacious in curing 
rheumatism. 

FLAT HOLME AND STEEP HOLME. 

From Caerdiff, an aquatic excursion may be made to these 
two islands, which are situated in the Bristol Channel. The 
Flat Holme is about ten miles to the south of Caerdiff, and 
about four miles in circumference. Upon the highest part is 
a lofty lighthouse, and near it a dwelling, the only one on the 
island, for the persons who take charge of it. 

The Steep Holme, which is three miles further to the south, 



CAERGWRLE. 87 

is not so large, but is more conspicuous, as it rises to a great 
height above the water. It is quite barren, and uninhabited. 

THE VALE OF GLAMORGAN, 

Frequently called the Garden of Wales, is a rich and fertile 
district, extending along the coast to the west of CaerdifF. It 
varies in breadth from eight to ten miles, and produces abund- 
ant crops. The climate is mild in the extreme ; myrtles, 
magnolias, and other tender plants, growing in the open air. 

CAERGWRLE, 

IN FLINTSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Chester 12 Mold 6% 

Hawarden 6£ Wrexham 5£ 

Caergwrle was a flourishing town previous to the rise and 
increase of Wrexham, and is remarkable as having been a 
Roman station, probably an outpost to Deva. It was after- 
wards occupied by the Britons, who built a castle on the 
summit of a high rock at a little distance. The ruins of a 
tower and some fragments of the walls still exist. Here Queen 
Eleanor rested on her journey to Caernarvon. 

Caergwrle is situated on the little river Alyn. In the 
vicinity are extensive quarries of limestone, which is burnt 
upon the spot and sent into Cheshire. In the loose earth over 
these quarries are found curious specimens of the fossil called 
entrochi. 

HOPE, OR QUEEN'S HOPE, 

Is a small village one mile from Caergwrle : it has the 
remains of a Castle, at which Eleanor, the wife of Edward I., 
stopped in her way to Caernarvon. The king shortly after 
gave it her, and hence the place was called Queen's Hope. 
There is an old bridge over the Alyn from which a view of the 
village may be obtained. 



88 CAERLEON. 



The seat of the Trevor family, is two miles from Caer- 
gwrle, on the road towards Mold. It was built in 1610, 
and, according to some, from designs by Inigo Jones, 

CAERLEON, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caerwent ■ ■ 9 Pontypool 8 

Newport 3 Usk 7 



of the Usk. Its having been a Roman city will, however, 
render it an object of interest to the antiquary. It was the 
Isca Silurum of Antoninus, where the second Augustan legion 
was for years in garrison ; the capital of fifteen important 
stations, called by Giraldus Urbs Legionum ; the residence of 
the praetor, the depository of the eagle, the seat of the principal 
courts of justice, and the city from which the imperial edicts 
were promulgated. Some historians have called it Isca Colonia, 
others Isca Augusta; and some have derived its present name 
from Lleon, an ancient British king, who is said to have 
founded it. It is also said to have been the residence of 
the renowned King Arthur. Caeiieon was formerly the seat 
of a metropolitan see, till St. David, disliking the bustle of 
a large city, removed it to Mine via, since called Ty Dewi by 
the Welsh, and St. David's by the English. 

But few traces of its former magnificence are visible. The 
Roman fortification was an oblong square, with the corners 
rounded, and unfurnished with towers. Many fragments of the 
walls still exist ; they are about ten feet thick, but no where 
more than fourteen feet high, which is much less than their 
original elevation. The circumference does not much exceed 
a mile; but the foundations, which have occasionally been 
found in the adjacent fields, indicate that the suburbs were 
extensive; tradition, indeed, reports them to have been nine 



CARMARTHEN. 89 

miles. The Castle stood between the walls and the river : 
some vestiges of it appear at the Hanbury Arms Inn. 

At a little distance on the opposite side of the road is an 
artificial mound, about 300 yards in circumference, upon 
which the citadel stood. From this eminence there is a fine 
view of Caerleon and its environs. 

Without the walls are the remains of a Roman amphi- 
theatre, to which the name of Arthur's Round Table has been 
given. It is an oval concavity, 222 feet by 192, and 18 deep, 
in which are ranges of stone seats, though now covered with 
earth and verdure. 

The only public buildings at Caerleon are the Market 
House, supported by four Tuscan pillars, and the Charity 
School. The bridge over the Usk is remarkable for its curious 
construction , 

The Tin Works in the vicinity, with the curious machinery 
-empjpyed there, are well worthy the attention of the stranger. 

st. julian's, 
Situated on the banks of the Usk, about half-way between 
Caerleon and Newport, is remarkable as having been the 
residence of the celebrated Lord Herbert, of Cherbury. Al- 
though the mansion has been considerably reduced, and con- 
verted into a farm-house, there are still indications of its former 
state. The walk to it is pretty. A barn near the house once 
formed part of the Chapel of St. Julian's Abbey. 



IN CAEEMARTHENSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Haverfordwest, by St. London, by Oxford 216 

Clare 32$ Narberth • 22 

Kidwelly 10£ Newcastle in Emlyn 20 

Lampeter 23£ Pembroke • 32J 

Llandilo Vawr 141 Pont ar Dulas • * 17£ 

Llanstephan 7 St. Clare, or St. Clears • • • • 9J 

Llaugharne 12$ Swansea 26£ 

London, by Bristol 231 Tenby 28 

Caermarthen, the county town, is very beautifully situated 



90 CAERMARTHEN. 

on the west bank of the Tywi, or Towey, which, previous to 
its arrival here, is swollen, by its numerous tributary streams, ; 
into a noble river. The ground occupied by the town is in 
some parts of considerable elevation, a circumstance which 
imparts to it a striking appearance, when viewed from a dis- 
tance, and gives it a commanding prospect of the adjacent vale. i 

This town was the Kaervyrdhin of the Britons, and the 
Maridunum of Ptolemy and Antoninus. By the ancient I 
Britons it was considered the capital of all Wales, and was the 
seat of their parliaments, or assemblies of wise men. Here,, 
also, the chancery and exchequer for South Wales were kept, • 
when this territory was formed into a principality by the crown i 
of England. Henry VIII. made it a borough town. ! 

Caermarthen is a corruption of Caer-Merdin, or Merlin's 
Town, so called from the British prophet, Merlin Ambrose,* 
being found there, when searched for by command of Vor- . 
tigern. 

Most of the streets are steep, and irregularly built, and the 
principal thoroughfare in the middle of the town is very narrow. 
There is, however, a large proportion of good houses, many of 
which belong to the neighbouring gentry, who resort here during 
the winter. The town is about three quarters of a mile in length 
and half a mile in width. It was formerly surrounded by a - 
high wall, with fortified gates. The population is about 9000. 

The communication with the country to the eastward is 
formed by a substantial stone bridge of several arches, overi. 
the Towey ; and at the upper end of the town there is a public 
walk, called the Parade, which overlooks a fine reach of the 
river, and commands an extensive view of the vale. 

The Guild, or Town Hall, is situated in the middle of the 
town : it is a handsome structure of freestone, adorned with 
Ionic columns, and is approached by a grand flight of steps, i 
In the County Grand Jury-room is a whole-length portrait of 
Sir Thomas Picton, painted by Sir M. A. Shee. It was 
presented to the county by his brother, the Hev. Edward : 
Picton, in 1829. 

The site of the Castle is partly occupied by the County 



CAERMARTHEN. 91 

Gaol, which was constructed on Mr. Howard's plan. Little 
i is known of the Castle, although it was the residence of the 
i Princes before their removal to Dinevaur. 

The Church, dedicated to St. Peter, is a large plain struc- 
-jture, consisting of two aisles and a chancel, with a lofty square 
.itower at the west end. It contains a fine-toned organ, and 
slseveral monuments : the most remarkable is that of Sir Rhys 
3|ap Thomas and his Lady, on the north side of the chancel, who 
5 were buried in the adjacent priory, where this monument 
^originally stood. Nearly opposite to it is another monument, 
(bearing a grotesque figure, and underneath a singular in- 
i\ scription. 

In the vault of the Scurlock family was buried Sir Richard 
:j Steele, to whose memory a small and simple tablet has been 
,1 erected . The farm which he possessed in consequence of his 
■ marriage into the Scurlock family, and which kept him from 
I want during the latter years of his life, is situated about a mile 
f| from Caermarthen, on the east side of the river, and is called 
. : Ty Gwyn, or the White House. There he wrote his comedy of 
% " The Conscious Lovers." He died at his house in the town, 

which was afterwards the Ivy Bush Inn, but is no longer 



Some remains of the Priory are still visible in Priory 
Street. Though this building is known to have existed before 
1148, neither its founder nor its date is recorded. At the 
other end of the town formerly stood a house of Grey Friars ; 
and behind the Town Hall was a Chapel of St. Mary, not used 
since the Dissolution. 

Caermarthen has several Meeting-houses, a Free Grammar 

School, founded by Dr. Owen, bishop of St. David's, and an 

Academy for the education of Presbyterian ministers. This 

town is said to have been the birth-place of the supposed 

t| magician and prophet Merlin. 

} i At the west end of Caermarthen is a Monument in honour 
X of Sir Thomas Picton, who was killed at Waterloo. The first 
I stone was laid August 16, 1825, and the structure completed in 
J two years. The design was given by Mr. Nash, the ornaments 



92 ABERGWILLY. 

were executed by Mr. Bailey, and the whole erected under the 
superintendence of Mr. Mainwaring, of Caermarthen. The 
monument is of grey stone, and consists of a plain column 
of the Doric order, resting on a square pedestal, and sur- 
mounted by a statue of Sir Thomas Picton. On the east side 
of the pedestal is a basso-relievo of Waterloo, and on the west ) 
side one of the siege of Badajos. The north and south sides" 
bear inscriptions in English and Welsh. At the corners of the 
pedestal are trophies. A staircase ascends to the top of the! 
column. 

Caermarthen has no manufactories of consequence, though 
in its vicinity are some iron and tin works. It has a consider- 
able trade, as the neighbouring country for some distance is 
dependent upon it for all the luxuries and many of the ne- 
cessaries of life. Its commerce is greatly facilitated by the 
river, which conveys vessels of 250 tons up to the Bridge. 

The markets, held on Wednesday and Saturday, are abund- 
antly supplied with meat, poultry, butter, wild fowl, game, and' 
excellent fish. 

The population amounts to more than 9000. There are 
several Inns, the principal of which are the Boar's Head, the 
King's Arms, and the Ivy Bush. 

ABERGWILLY 

Is situated on the banks of the Towey, about two miles from 
Caermarthen. This place is chiefly remarkable as the resi- 
dence of the Bishops of St. David's, whose palace is a spacious' 
building at the east end of the village. This is the only' 
habitable residence of the seven which formerly belonged to 
the bishopric. It was remodelled in 1829-30, from designs by 
Mr. Foster. 

In the parish of Abergwilly, but about a mile and a half 
beyond the village, is Merlin's Hill, near the brow of which is 
an opening n the rock called Merlin's Chuir, said to have 
been the scene of the magician's incantations. 



CAERNARVON, 93 

CAERNARVON, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bangor » 9 London, by Shrewsbury • • 236 

Beaumaris 11 London, by Worcester • • • • 247 

Beddgelart 12 Menai Bridge 6£ 

Capel Curig 16 Newborough • 5 

Cricceath 23| Pont Aberglaslyn 13J 

Dolbadern Castle 7 Pwllheli 22 

Llanberis 9 Tremadoc 18J 

Llanllyfni 8 



The capital of the county, derives its name, Caer-yn-Arfon, 
from caer a fortress, yn in, Arfon the district opposite to Man 
or Anglesea. It is an ancient town, well laid out, and delight- 
fully situated on the Menai Strait, at the mouth of the river 
Seiont. It is built in the form of a square, and enclosed on 
three sides by an embattled stone wall. The inferior streets are 
■at right angles with the principal one, in which stands the old 
Town Hall. 

The chief object of interest is the Castle, built by Edward I., 
the conqueror of Wales. In form it is an oblong irregular 
square, occupying about two acres and a half. Mr. Pennant 
asserts, on the authority of the Sebright MS., that it was built 
in one year. It has suffered considerably at various times, 
having been burnt by the Welsh in 1294, and besieged by the 
parliament forces in 1646. In 1648 General Mytton was 
besieged here by Sir J. Owen. 

The external walls are of white hewn stone, and are nearly 
entire. They are from eight to ten feet in thickness, and have 
within them a narrow, gallery, with numerous oeillets or slips for 
the discharge of arrows on a besieging force. Above the em- 
battled parapet rise, in majestic grandeur, numerous turreted 
but dissimilar towers, of pentagonal, hexagonal, and octagonal 
forms. Upon the south side, next the river Seiont, are three 
hexagonal and octagonal towers, with similar ones on the north. 
Two are more lofty than the rest. The Eagle Tower, so called 
from a figure of that bird carved in stone, is surmounted by 



94 CAERNARVON. 

three elegant turrets. This figure is said to have been brought, 
by Edward's orders, from one of the towers of Segontium. 

The principal entrance is under a massive tower, in front of ( 
which is a mutilated statue of Edward L, holding in his left . 
hand a sword which he draws with his right, or probably isi \ 
sheathing, in allusion to the termination of the Welsh war, and i 
a defaced shield under his feet. The grooves in this gateway i 
indicate that it was defended by four portcullises. The Queen's!: 
Gate (so called from having been the one by which Eleanor theu 
queen of Edward I. entered the castle) is now considerably 
above the level of the ground. Such is the external appearance t 
of the Castle. 

The interior is divided into two parts, forming an outer and 
an inner court, but is not in so perfect a state as the exterior. - 
The state rooms were fitted up with spacious windows and. 
elegant tracery, of which little now remains. They present a 
square front, though they are all of polygonal shape. Round 
the interior of the castle appears to have extended a gallery, a 
considerable portion of which is still standing. At the north- 
east corner is a deep well, now nearly filled up, and contiguous 
to it a round tower formerly used as a dungeon. Near the end' 
of one of the courts is an echo. 

The only remaining staircase is that of the Eagle Tower, 
consisting of 158 steps. From the summit there is an extensive 
view of Anglesea and the surrounding country. Hence are 
seen the three beautiful, and, as they appear from this spot, 
uniform, conical summits of the Heifl ridge in the promontory 
of Llyn. These hills are also called Cam Madryn and Cam I 
Boduon. 

In a room of the Eagle Tower, eleven feet by seven, Ed- 
ward II., the first English Prince of Wales,* was born, April 25, 
1284. A passage only separates this room from another and 



* The origin of the Prince of Wales' crest, with the motto Ich Dien, is gene- 
rally attributed to Edward the Black Prince, who, at the battle of Cressy, killed 
John of Luxemburg, King of Bohemia, and then deplumed his casque of those 
ostrich feathers which, in memory of his victory, have since been represented in 
the arms of the Prince of Wales. The words Ich Dien are said by some to be 



CAERNARVON. 95 

larger apartment, which some have thought more likely to have 
been the scene of the royal accouchement. 

On February 1st, 1828, the Eagle Tower was considerably 
injured by lightning, which cracked the wall for several yards 
pom the top, and displaced large masses of stone. 

Outside of the town is a broad and pleasant Terrace along 
\he shore of the Menai, extending from the Quay to the north 
[end of the town walls. In the evening it is frequented as a 
promenade by all classes of persons, who, while they enjoy the 
Isea-breezes, are amused by viewing the vessels passing along 
\ihe Menai. 

The Church, or rather Chapel, dedicated to St. Mary, has 
been rebuilt by subscription within a few years. Service is 
performed here in English, and at the mother church at Llan- 
heblk, half a mile distant, in Welsh. The latter building con- 
tains a monument of two recumbent figures in white marble. 
This church is dedicated to Publicius, a brother of Helena, 
(whose splendid acts in favour of Christianity are well known. 
There are also two large chapels belonging to the Calvinists 
land Wesleyans, erected in 1829 : the latter was built from 
designs by Mr. Lloyd. 

The County Hall or Court House stands nearly opposite to 
the Castle gates. It is mean-looking without, but the interior 
is neatly fitted up. Near it, in Newgate Street, is the County 
Prison, erected in 1794. The Town Hall is situated over the 
east gateway of the town. On the front of it is an inscription, 
recording the period of its erection. 

The Market House and Shambles are commodious, and 
near the Quay is the Custom House, a mean building, but con- 
veniently situated for the vessels trading in slates, large quan- 
tities of which are obtained from the mountains of Llanberis, 
and exported from Caernarvon to different parts of the empire. 



German, and are translated I serve ; but Mr. Evans derives them from the 
Welsh, although the phrase is obsolete, and renders them Triumphant in death. 
Another opinion is, that the words are a corruption of Eich Byn, the Welsh for 
This is the man, the phrase said to have been used by Edward I. when he shewed 
| the Welsh his new-born son as their prince. 



96 CAERNARVON. 

The Hotel, built some years ago by the Marquess of 
Anglesea, outside the town walls, is a large and elegant stone 
building, affording excellent accommodation. From the top 
of a rock called Tuthill, behind the hotel, a fine view is 
obtained of the town and castle, and, on a clear day, of the 
Isle of Anglesea, with Holyhead and the Parys Mountains. 

The Hot and Cold Sea-water Baths, in Church Street, were 
likewise erected by the Marquess of Anglesea. The establish- 
ment comprises an hotel, a reading-room, and a billiard-room. 

The chief inns, besides the Hotel, are the Goat and the 
Sportsman. The Market is held on Saturday, and is well 
supplied. The population is about 8500. 

No manufactories are established at Caernarvon, but its 
maritime situation enables it to carry on a considerable coasting 
trade. The harbour, although the Aber sandbanks form a dan- 
gerous bar, has been very much improved, within a few years, 
by the construction of piers, &c, so that vessels of considerable 
burden can lie alongside the quay and take in or discharge their 
cargoes in perfect safety. The principal exports are slates and 
copper, and the imports wines, porter, grocery, &c. The Quay, 
which ranges along the side of the Castle, is of considerable 
extent. 

About half a mile south of Caernarvon is the site of the 
ancient town of Segontium, the only Roman station of import- 
ance in this part of Cambria. Many minor forts and posts 
were, however, dependent upon it. It is an oblong square, 
enclosing about seven acres, slightly elevated above the sur-: 
rounding ground. Some fragments of the walls still remain ; 
and a modern row of houses has been erected, to which the 
name of Segontium Terrace has been given. Near the Seiont 
was a strong fort, intended to secure a landing-place at high 
water. Two sides of the walls are nearly entire, and most of 
the stone facing being removed, the Roman method of building 
is apparent. It is evident, from the discoveries made here, that 
this place was connected with Constantine ; and in Welsh it is 
called Caer Custient, or the city of Constantius. A well, by 
the fort, retains the name of Helena, the daughter of Octavius, 






CAERPHILLY. 97 

! Duke of Cornwall, and the wife of Maximus, first cousin of 
i Constantine, who was born at Segontium. This place was for 
j some time the residence of the British princes. Cadwallo, the 
i son of Cadfan, appears to have been the first who fixed the 

court here. 

From Caernarvon Excursions may be made to Plas Newydd, 

•six miles distant, to Bangor, to Menai Bridge, and to the Vale 

and Lakes of Llanberis, to which an excellent road was made 

in 1828. 

Another excursion might be made to Beddgelart and Capel 

Curig, returning through the Vale of Llanberis ; so as to pass 

round Snowdon, and examine the various aspects it presents. 
J The return, however, through the Pass of Llanberis, can only 

be accomplished on a pony, or walking. 

For a water-excursion, a small decked cutter, containing 

two beds and a cabin capable of holding about ten persons, 

tnay be hired for a guinea per day. 

CAERPHILLY, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE. 

Distant fi-om Miles. Distantfrom Miles, 

Caerdiff 7 Newport 12 

Llandaff ,6 Pontypool 11 

Merthyr Tydvil 15$ Pont y Pridd 7 

Caerphilly, or Caerfili, is a straggling town, with about 
2000 inhabitants. It is situated in the centre of a small plain, 
, amidst the hills which run through the centre of the county. 

The Castle, which is the great object of attraction, stands 
on the brink of a small stream running into the Rumney. The 
jidea formed on a first view of this stupendous pile is rather 
(that of a ruined town than a castle : it is by much the largest 
castellated ruin in Britain, and is only inferior in point oj" size 
to Windsor Castle. The high outer rampart, with its massive 
•abutments and frequent towers, still in a great measure entire, 
(conveys at once a clear impression of the great extent of the 
fortress. In entering upon an examination of the ruin, we 

F 



98 CAERPHILLY. 

pass the barbican, and, leaving on the left two dilapidated 
towers which formed the entrance, enter the great area of the 
castle. A range of building beneath the rampart, on the right, 
once formed the barracks of the garrison. 

We then advance to the first court, which appears to have 
comprised the citadel; and thence through a large gateway, 
with several grooves for portcullises, to the principal court, the 
area of which is seventy yards by forty. On the south side is 
that princely apartment, by some considered the hall, and by 
others the chapel ; but, whichever it may have been, vestiges 
of much original beauty appear in the elegant outline of its 
four large windows, the grand proportions of the chimney-piece, 
and the light triplet pillars, with arches, which go round the 
room. The appearance of mortice-holes in the walls for the 
ends of beams, at the height of about the middle of the win- 
dows, led Camden to suppose that the ceiling was projected 
thence, and that an apartment above was lighted by the upper 
portion of the windows: but more probably from those mor-, 
tices a support was derived for a lofty arched roof, or a gallery. 
The external staircase-entrance to the hall spoken of by Cam- 
den, " the roof whereof is vaulted and supported by twenty \ 
arches," is now rendered nearly impassable by rubbish. To 
the west of this apartment are two other rooms, and the remains 
of a drawbridge crossing the moat. South-east of the hall is a 
leaning tower, a bulky fragment of the ruin, between seventy 
and eighty feet in height, and of a prodigious thickness. It.; 
hangs nearly eleven feet and a half out of the perpendicular, 
and is only held together by the strength of its cement. Howl i 
or when this phenomenon happened, no legend informs us, but < 
it has remained in this state for many centuries. As the 
adjoining towers and all the standing parts of the ruins remain 
perpendicular, the cause must have arisen from a local failure 
in the foundation, or from the effects of a mine, probably during 
the long siege which Hugh le Despenser sustained in this castle 
in the time of Edward II. 3 

Near this part of the ruin a place is shewn as the mint, with 
the remains of two furnaces for melting metal. From this 



CAERWENT. 99 

ti chamber a staircase ascends to the corridor, still in good pre- 
I servation, which, lighted by small windows and passing round 
I the principal court, formed a communication with the different 
'apartments. 

The external view of the western entrance of the ruin, with 

I its ponderous circular towers, is remarkably striking, and, with 

'I the remains of its drawbridge and defending outwork, may be 

considered as the most entire part of the ruin. An artificial 

mound some distance off, but within the works of the castle, 

was most likely used for exploratory purposes. 

From the great plan of this castle, and there being no direct 
evidence to the contrary, its foundation has been attributed to 
the Romans; and some ingenious arguments have been ad- 
duced to prove that it was their Bullaum Silurum. But it 
sufficiently appears that no considerable part of the present 
fortress was built by them, as the predatory army of Rhys 
'jTycan took and rased Caerphilly Castle in 1221. The best 
■j supported opinion is that of the Hon. Daines Barrington, who 
attributes the present erection to Edward I. The remains of 
•the castle belong to the Marquis of Bute. 

Upon a mountain near Caerphilly is a monument known by 
the name of Y Maen Mr. It is a quadrangular stone pillar, 
rather inclining, and about eight feet high : close to the base is 
a mound, inclosing the space of six yards, and in the midst a 
square area. On the pillar is an inscription in Welsh, which 
signifies, " Mayest thou awake ;" from which it is inferred 
that it is a funeral monument. 

Caerphilly has two neat Inns, the Boar's Head and the 
Castle, but no means of conveyance can be obtained here. 



CAERWENT, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIKE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

BlackRocklnn 4 Llanfair Iscoed 2 

Caerleon 9 Newport 11 

Caldecot Castle 2 Usk 8£ 

Chepstow 53 

:L.ofC. 



100 CAERWYS, OR CAERGWS. 

This place is now an inconsiderable village, though for- 
merly celebrated, under the auspices of Agricola, for its 
temples, theatres, baths, porticoes, &c. It was the Venta 
Silurum of the Romans, and was garrisoned by the second 
Augustine legion. The form of the ancient city was a parallel- 
ogram, measuring about 1505 feet in length and 1170 in 
breadth, with circular corners. A fosse ran round three of its 
sides. The walls appear to have been from twelve to twenty- 
four feet in height, and from nine to twelve in thickness. 

The Church, with its lofty embattled tower, forms a con- 
spicuous object, when seen from the environs. It consists [ 
of a nave and chancel. The views from the churchyard are 
pleasing. i 

A beautiful tesselated pavement was discovered here in 
1777, but constant depredations have very much injured it.' 
It is situated in an orchard. 

CAERWYS, or CAERGWS, 

IN FLINTSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Denbigh 7i Mold 11 

Holywell 5 St. Asaph 7 

Is a market-town, with about 900 inhabitants. It was 
formerly a place of considerable importance, as the county 
assizes were held there ; and was also noted as the seat of the 
Eisteddfod, a species of British Olympics, or Sessions of Bards 
and Minstrels; a theatre where the British bards poured forth- 
their extemporaneous effusions, or awakened their harps to 
melody in trials of skill, instituted by law, and held here with 
great form and ceremony. The judges in these competitions 
were appointed by a commission from the Prince; and aftei 
the conquest of Wales by Edward I., the Eisteddfod was 
sanctioned as an institution likely to soften the manners of a 
fierce and warlike people. The judges conferred suitable 
rewards upon the competitors, and granted permission to those 
whom they approved, to exercise their talents before the nobilit) 
and gentry of the principality, without which no one was 



CALDECOT CASTLE. 101 

admitted to that distinction. The last meeting held here was 
in 1798, when an attempt was made by the London North 
Wales Society to revive these festivals* 

CALDECOT CASTLE, • 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

BlackRocklnn 2 Chepstow 7 

Caerwent • •••• 2 

The situation of this ruin in an undiversified swampy plain, 
called Caldecot Level, or the Vale of Troggy, is not calculated 
to set off its importance. Viewed from an elevation in the 
approach, the towers and citadel appear sunk, and scarcely 
distinguishable from the curtain wall of the fortification; but on 
a nearer inspection the ruin rises into importance ; and the 
aspect of its chief entrance, a large gothic gateway guarded by 
two massive projecting towers, is truly noble. The light gray 
masonry of this entrance is agreeably relieved by a profusion 
of ivy, overspreading nearly the whole of one tower, and throw- 
ing the broad shadow of its pendant foliage upon part of the 
other. Within the portal the grooves of two portcullises are 
apparent. There are holes also in the arch, probably intended 
for pouring down melted lead upon the besiegers. 

On entering the court, some remains of the baronial hall, 
and the foundations of other buildings, within the area of the 
walls, are apparent. A small artificial mount at the north- 
east angle of the ruin sustains the citadel, a lofty round tower ; 
to which last refuge of the garrison a ready communication 
seems to have been conducted on the walls, from the different 
towers and other parts of the fortress : the whole of which 
is surrounded by a broad and deep moat. 

The early history of this castle is uncertain : some have 
conjectured that part of it was built by Harold ; and indeed a 
round tower on the south-west side of the castle, with a cir- 
cularly arched entrance, has a Saxon character ; but the general 
architecture of the building is Gothic. It appears, from Mr. 



102 CANN OFFICE. — CAPEL CURIG,OR CAPEL CERRIG. 

Coxe's illustration, that Caldecot Castle was the private pro- 
perty of the great Bohun family, possessing the earldom of 
Hereford, who were hereditary constables of England. 

Caldecot Church is an extensive and highly ornamented 
Gothic structure. The windows contain some remains of 
painted glass; and over the south door is a figure of the 
Virgin, to whom the Church was dedicated. 

CANN OFFICE, 

IN MONTGOMERYSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Milea. 

Llanfair 7 Mallwyd 9 

Llanfyllin 11 

Cann Office, or the Inn of Cann, is a solitary inn, which, 
tradition says, derives its name from Cannon's Office ; for, in 
the time of Cromwell, cannon were placed before the house.' 
There are still remaining traces of entrenchments, now planted 
with trees. 

Behind the Inn is a large Barrow, apparently of great anti- 
quity, beneath which it is supposed some chieftain was buried. 1 
Its base is about 200 feet in circumference. 

CAPEL CURIG, or CAPEL CERRIG, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Miles. : 

Bangor 14| Cerig y Druidion 171 

Beddgelart 12 Llanberis 7 

BettwsyCoed -•• 5 Llanrwst, by Bettws y Coed 8 

Caernarvon 16 Menai Bridge 17 

Cernioge Mawr Inn ...... 14J Tyn y Maes 7| 

Pronounced Kappel Kerrig, is a small village, consisting 
of a few cottages, a Chapel, belonging to Llandegai parish, and 
a large commodious Inn. It is delightfully situated at the 
junction of three vallies, affording an infinite variety of pleasing 
landscapes. One of these vallies points to the north-west, and ' 
leads to Llyn Ogwen and Nant Frangon. Another, towards. 



CAPEL CURIG, OR CAPEL CERRIG. 103 

the east, follows the course of the Llugwy to its junction with 
the Conway, near Bettws y Coed. The third conducts to the 
Pass of Llanberis, and is bounded by Snowdon and its subor- 
dinate mountains. No place can be more favourably situated 
for excursions. Wood and water, of which many of the Welsh 
vales are deficient, are here seen in great variety. 

The Inn was erected by the late Lord Penrhyn, from 
designs by Wyatt, and has been much enlarged since. It is 
pleasantly situated on a small eminence, from the end of 
which there is a fine view of two lakes, and up the valley, to 
Snowdon. The base of Moel Siabod is seen on one side, and 
that of the Glyder on the other. 

Detached from the Inn are stables and a cottage, erected 
for the accommodation of the mail and stage coaches, and of 
persons who wish to change horses without going down to the 
inn. 

Very near Capel Curig is a cascade; and about three 
miles distant, on the left of the road towards Bettws, is the 
celebrated cataract of 

RHAIADYR Y WENNOL, OR SPOUT OF THE SWALLOW. 

The scenery around this fall, which is formed by the little 
river Llugwy, is extremely grand, particularly towards the 
upper part. The water is not precipitated in a single sheet 
from the top to the bottom, but is broken into three pretty 
equal steps; and these again are subdivided and broken by the 
jutting crags, which disperse the stream in various directions. 
The river then alters its course, and becomes smooth and 
beautiful, taking its direction between high wooded banks, 
over which are seen the varied tints of oak, birch, and hazel. 
A path leads to the fall from the high road, and a number 
of steps cut in the rock shew that it is much visited. 

LLYN OGWEN, OR OGWEN LAKE, 

May also be visited from Capel Curig, from which it is 
about four miles distant. The Holyhead mail-road passes 
along its south shore. This pool is well stocked with trout 



104 CARDIGAN. 

and several other kinds of fish. To the south of it stands the 
Trifen, or Trivaen, — that is, Three-Headed, — a conical moun- 
tain, of rugged aspect, and apparently isolated, but joining its 
base to the towering ridges of the Glyder, or Ctydder. On the 
summit of the latter is an immense accumulation of stone 
pillars, supposed by some to have been a Druidical temple, 
and by others to have been formed by the effect of rain and 
frost. The ascent of the Glyder is an arduous undertaking, 
even more difficult than that of Snowdon. 

MOEL SIABOD 

Rises immediately to the south of Capel Curig 2878 feet 
above the level of the sea. This mountain is distinguished by 
its size and the elegance of its outline. The end towards 
Bettws y Coed is extremely precipitous and broken. The 
summit is crowned with immense masses of loose rock, and 
commands a fine view of the mountains of Snowdonia, of nine 
different lakes, and of the sea in the distance. 

CARDIGAN, 

IN CARDIGANSHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles* 

Aberaeron 23 Lampeter, by Newcastle • • 30 

Aberystwith, by Aberaeron 39 London • 232 

Fishguard, by Newport 171 Newcastle in Emlyn 10 

Haverfordwest 26 Newport 10J 

Kilgerran 3 

Cardigan, called by the Britons Aberteivi, is situated on the 
north bank of the Teivi, about three miles from its entrance intQ 
the sea. Over the river is an ancient stone bridge of seven 
arches, at the end of which is a chapel, said to be erected 
on the spot where Giraldus preached the Crusade. The town 
is tolerably well built, though some of the streets are steep and 
narrow, and contains about 2500 inhabitants. 

Cardigan is supposed to have derived its name from Care- 
dig, the son of Cynedda Wledig, and the first king of Care- 
digion. It is the county town. 



CARDIGAN. 105 

I 

I Although there are no manufactures, the town carries on a 
| considerable coasting trade, in which nearly 300 vessels of 
,j various burdens, and about 1000 seamen, are employed. The 
J river is navigable up to the quay for vessels of 230 tons. 

The Castle, built by Gilbert de Clare, in the reign of 
j Henry II., was a building of considerable strength. During 
ijthe civil wars, it was garrisoned for the king, and sustained a 
regular siege, but at last surrendered to the Parliament forces, 
under General Langhorne. The remains of the Castle are in- 
considerable ; they are situated on a low cliff near the foot of 
{ the Bridge, and consist chiefly of the wall on the riverside, and 
I* the fragments of two circular bastions. The site of the keep is 
1 now occupied by a modern-built mansion, and its dungeons 
| have been converted into cellars. 

The Church was erected in 1639, but the principal part of 
it was rebuilt in 1703. It is a substantial structure, with a 
tower at the west end. The interior comprises a spacious nave 
and a chancel. The latter is the most ancient and most elegant 
part of the building. It is turreted, and strengthened by 
buttresses with light Gothic ornaments. There are no remark- 
able monuments. 

Near the east end of the Church formerly stood a Priory of 
Black Monks. The site is now occupied by a mansion, which, 
in the reign of Charles I., was the residence of Catherine 
Phillips, the well known Orinda. 

The Town Hall is a handsome edifice, on the north bank of 
the river, built in 1764. At the end of Broad Street is the 
County Gaol, erected from designs by Mr. Nash, in 1793. 
There is also a Free Grammar School, endowed during the 
last century by Lady Letitia Cornwallis. 

The Market-days are Tuesdays and Saturdays. The prin- 
cipal Inns are the Black Lion and the White Hart. 

st. dogmael's abbey, 

About a mile and a half from Cardigan, was founded by 
Martin, of Tours, a Norman chieftain, who came into Wales 
in the time of William the Conqueror. There are but few 
f 2 



106 CAREW CASTLE. 

remains of the building, and these have been converted into 
barns and sheds, and into a chapel for the accommodation of 
the neighbourhood. St. Dogmael's is now a mere fishing 
village. 

PERCELLY, OR PRESELE MOUNTAIN, 

About twelve miles south of Cardigan, to the left of the 
road towards Haverfordwest, is the centre of a long ridge of 
hills running from east to west. It is about seven miles long 
and two broad, and may be seen at a distance of forty miles. 
The view from the summit is extensive, but not picturesque. 

CAREW CASTLE, 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles, 

ColdBlow 8 Pembroke 4| 

Manorbeer 2 Tenby 6£ 

Narberth..-- 10 

Pronounced Carey Castle, was, in ancient times, a resi- 
dence of the Welsh Princes, one of whom, named Rhys ap, 
Theodore, gave it, with some other castles, as a marriage 
portion with his daughter Nesta, to Gerald de Cario, an Anglo- 
Norman chieftain, who was appointed lieutenant of these parts 
by Henry I. One of his ancestors mortgaged the castle to , 
Sir Rhys ab Thomas, by whom, according to Leland, it was 
rebuilt in the reign of Henry VII. It was afterwards forfeited 
to Henry VIII., who granted it to Sir John Perrot, from whom 
it passed into the hands of Sir John Carew. 

The remains of Carew Castle stand upon a gentle swell, ; 
rising above an arm of Milford Haven. The north side ex- 
hibits the mode of building practised in the reign of Henry 
VIII. The windows on this side are square, and of grand 
dimensions, projecting in large bows ; and the interior of this 
part is highly ornamented ; a chimney-piece with Corinthian 
columns appearing amongst the latest decorations of the 
structure. 



CERIG Y DRUIDION. 107 

The great hall, built in the decorated Gothic style, mea- 
suring 102 feet by 20, is much dilapidated, but is still a noble 
relic of antique grandeur. Other parts of the building are 
of more remote date, and most of the walls are remarkably 
thick and of solid masonry. In this castle, it is said, Sir Rhys 
ab Thomas entertained Henry VII., on his way to Bosworth 
Field. 

Over the gateway, on the west side, are the arms of 
England, Duke of Lancaster and Carew ; and contiguous to 
this entrance is a spacious room, eighty feet by thirty. 

The village of Carew is about half a mile distant. On the 
side of the road is an ancient Cross, richly sculptured, and 
about fourteen feet in height. The Church is a large building, 
containing, amongst other monuments, the recumbent figures 



CERIG Y DRUIDION, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bala, on foot 9£ Llanrwst *•••• 13J 

Capel Curig . • • -. 17j PontyGlyn 4$ 

Cernioge Mawr 3 Ruthin 15 

Corwen - 10 

Cerig y Druidion, or the Abode of the Druids, was so 
called from the Druidical remains which formerly stood here. 
It is a neat village, with an Inn, and is situated at the junc- 
tion of several high roads. 

Upon a hill, about a mile to the east of this village, is Pen 
Gwerwyn, the vestige of a castle which once belonged to 
Caractacus. To this place, it is said, he retreated after his 
defeat by the Romans ; but being betrayed into their hands, 
he was thence sent to Rome, where he made the famous 
speech referred to by our historians. 



108 CERNXOGE MAVR/ — CHEPSTOW. 



CERNIOGE MAWR, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles* 

29 Cqrwen 13 

Capel Curig 14£ Llanrwst 10£ 

Cerig y Druidfon 3 Ruthin 18 

Cernioge Mawr, pronounced Kernyoggy Mowr, is a small 
hamlet, with three or four houses and a good Inn, situated on the 
Holyhead mail road. A bog, about a mile from this place to- 
wards Cerig yDruidion, is said to be so exactly situated upon the 
summit of this part of the country, that the water from its east 
end falls into the Dee, and from the west end into the Conway, 



CHEPSTOW, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Abergavenny, by Ragland . 21 Caldecot Castle 7 

. Beachley 3 London -• 128 

Black Rock Inn • 5 Monmouth.. 15| 

Bristol, by Aust Passage • r 16£ Newport 16§ 

Bristol, by steam-packet, Piercefield- 2 

about 2 hours. Ragland- •• 12 

Caerwent 51 Tintern Abbey 5 

The name of this town is supposed to be a corruption of 
Cheapian Stowe, denoting a place of traffic. The town is 
irregularly built, but is most romantically situated on the banks 
of the Wye, about three miles from its entrance into the Bristol 
channel. 

The Castle, which is the principal object of attraction, 
supposed by some antiquaries to have been built by Julius 
Caesar; a layer of Roman bricks having been observed in the 
wall. Others, however, are of opinion that it was erected in 
the eleventh century, by William Fitzosborn, Earl of Hereford, 
to defend the possessions granted to him by William the Con- 
queror, and that the Roman bricks discovered here were 
brought from Caerwent. Roger de Britolio, the son and 



i. 



CHEPSTOW. 109 

successor of Fitzosborn, having taken up arms against his 
sovereign, was deprived of his vast inheritance, and Chepstow 
Castle was transferred to the noble family of Clare, from 
whom it descended to the Plantagenets, Herberts, and So- 
mersets, in the last of which families it is vested. This 
fortress is remarkable in history for the gallant defence that it 
made, with a slender garrison, against a considerable force 
headed by Oliver Cromwell. After a long siege, it was taken 
by assault, and nearly all its defenders were sacrificed. 

The ruins of the Castle are most picturesquely situated on 
the rocks overhanging the Wye, and are covered with ivy. 
One side lies so close to the precipice, that it appears to form 
part of the cliff. The other sides were defended by a moat, 
and consist of massive walls, flanked with lofty towers. The 
area enclosed by the walls is large, and is divided into four 
courts. 

The principal entrance consists of a Norman arch, flanked 
by two circular towers. Through this gate the visitor is ad- 
mitted to the first court, in which are seen the remains of the 
baronial hall, the kitchen, and other apartments. At the 
south-east angle is a large round tower, formerly the citadel, 
and remarkable as having been the prison of Henry Marten, 
the regicide. Here he was confined for twenty years, but not 
with the rigour some have supposed. His family lived with 
him, and he had offices for his servants ; he had free range of 
the castle during the day, and, with a guard, was allowed to 
visit the neighbouring gentry. Mr. Southey's beautiful lines 
must, therefore, be considered more poetical than true : — 

" For thirty years, secluded from mankind, 
Here Marten lingered. Often have these walls 
Echoed his footsteps, as with even tread 
He paced around his prison. Not to him 
Did nature's fair varieties exist ; 
He never saw the sun's delightful beams, 
Save when through yon high bars he poured a, .fc^d 
And broken splendour." 

Marten died by a stroke of apoplexy, in his 78th year ; and 
was buried in the chancel of the church at Chepstow. 



110 CHEPSTOW. 

The second court of the Castle is now laid out as a kitchen 
garden. At the end of it is a gateway leading into the third 
court containing the chapel ; a fine remnant of antiquity, ninety 
feet in length and thirty in breadth. The roof has fallen in, 
but the remaining walls are not less than forty feet high. At 
some distance from the ground is seen a range of niches, said 
to have been filled with statues ; and the mortices of beams 
appear to indicate that a gallery was conducted round the 
chapel. The style of the windows and ornaments is Gothic, 
but the original part of the building is Normau. From the 
chapel, a flight of steps leads to the battlements, shadowed by 
wide branching trees of various descriptions, rising from the 
moat beneath. 

Beyond the moat are seen the low embowered ruins of the 
fourth and last court, which was formerly separated from the 
other part of the building by a drawbridge. 

Returning towards the entrance of the castle, the visitor 
may notice a subterranean chamber excavated in the rock, 
beneath the ruin, and opening to the overhanging brow of the 
cliff. Hence the Wye is seen rolling its swelling tide at an 
immense depth beneath. 

The Church, situated at the extremity of the town below 
the bridge, exhibits a curious specimen of Norman archi- 
tecture, in the massive arches resting on piers within, and the 
richly ornamented mouldings of the west entrance. It ori- 
ginally belonged to the Benedictine Priory of Striguil, but 
was converted, at the reformation, into the parish church of 
Chepstow. On the south side of the chancel, under a ca- 
nopied monument supported by eight Corinthian pillars, are 
whole-length figures of Henry, second Earl of Worcester, and 
his lady, although they were not buried here. Another mo- 
nument, dated 1620, is in memory of Mrs. Clayton and her 
two husbands, both represented kneeling. 

Marten, the regicide, was buried in the chancel, where a 
stone, with an inscription written by himself, was placed over ; 
him. Some years afterward this stone was removed, by order 
of one of the vicars, into the body of the church ; but having 



CHEPSTOW. Ill 

been broken and defaced, a new stone was placed here in 
1812, and the inscription recut, by order of the churchwardens. 
It is as follows: — 

" HERE, 

September the 9, in the year of our Lord 1680, 

Was buried a true Englishman, 

Who in Berkshire was well known 

To love his country's freedom 'bove his own, 

But living immured full twenty year, 

Had time to write, as does appear, 

HIS EPITAPH. 

H ere, or elsewhere, (all's one to you, to me,) 
E arth, air, or water, gripes my ghostly dust ; 
N one knows how soon to be by fire set free. 
R eader, if you an oft- tried rule will trust, 
Y ou will gladly do and suffer what you must. 

M y life was spent in serving you, 

A nd death's my pay (it seems) and welcome too ; 

R evenge destroying but itself, while I 

T o birds of prey leave my old cage and fly. 

E xamples preach to th' eye, care then (mine says) 

N ot how you end, but how you spend your days." 

The Bridge over the Wye, completed in 1816, is an elegant 
structure, consisting of five cast-iron arches, resting on stone 
piers. It is 532 feet in length, and 20 in width. The centre 
arch is 112 feet in span, the two adjoining arches are 70 feet, 
and the two outer arches 54 feet. 

The former bridge was of wood, and was remarkable for its 
construction, though it was not contrived so as to rise with the 
tide, as some persons have erroneously asserted. The tide has 
been said to rise higher at this place than in any other part of 
the world, having, at particular periods, reached seventy feet. 
The highest point to which it has attained, however, for many 
years, is fifty-six feet. This extraordinary swell is caused by 
the rocks of Beachley and Aust, which, projecting into the 
Severn just above the mouth of the Wye, obstruct the direct 
course of the tide, and impel the water with additional force 
up this river. 

In the garden of a house in Bridge Street, is an ebbing 
and flowing well. The water leaves it at high tide, and 



112 CHESTER. 

returns soon after the ebb. The well is thirty-two feet deep, 
and frequently contains fourteen feet of water. 

Chepstow has no manufactures, but carries on a con- 
siderable trade in timber, coals, grindstones, iron, and cider, j. 
Great quantities of salmon are caught in the Wye and the } 
Severn. The population amounts to 3250. 

The principal Inns are the Beaufort Arms, the Three Cranes, , 
and the George. 

Steam- vessels go daily to Bristol during the summer. 

From Chepstow the tourist may visit Piercefield, the Wynd- 
cliff, and Tintern Abbey. See Index. 

CHESTER, 

IN CHESHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Flint 15 London-... 181 2 

Hawarden — 7 Mold 12 

Holt 9 Wrexham llj 

Though this city is not in Wales, its proximity to the 
Principality frequently induces tourists to pay it a visit. It isf I, 
situated on a rocky eminence, half encircled by a sweep of the • 
Dee, and is remarkable for the antiquity and curious con- 
struction of many of the houses. 

The principal objects worthy of notice are, the Cathedral; 
the Castle, containing an armoury and an elegant court of \l 
justice; the town walls, with the tower, from which Charles I. 
beheld the defeat of his army at Rowton Moor; the new 
Bridge over the Dee, 200 feet in the span, being the largest 
stone arch in the world ; and Trinity Church, containing the 
remains of Matthew Henry, the commentator, and of Parnell,. - 
the poet. 

The principal Inns are, the Albion, the Golden Lion, the < 
Pied Bull, the Royal Hotel, the Red Lion, the White Lion, the 
Feathers, the Blossom. 

For a more detailed account, the reader is referred to 
" Leigh's Road Book of England and Wales." 



CHIRK. 113 



EATON HALL, 

The seat of Earl Grosvenor, is delightfully situated in the 
centre of an extensive park, on the banks of the Dee, about 
"(three miles from Chester. It is a noble mansion, rebuilt in 
the Gothic style, from designs by Mr. Porden, in 1813, and 
is fitted up with great splendour. No tourist should omit to 
visit it. See " Leigh's Road Book of England and 
Wales." 

CHIRK, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Ellesmere 7 Oswestry • 5J 

Llangollen 7 Ruabon 4£ 

Is a large and populous village, situated on the river 
jCeiriog, and celebrated for the beautiful scenery by which it is 
•surrounded. The Church contains several monuments of the 
!|Middleton family, but none of them remarkable for their 
(execution : the best is that of Sir Thomas Middleton, a dis- 
tinguished partisan of the parliament during the civil wars. 
1 In the churchyard are several very old yew-trees. 

Half a mile from Chirk, the Ellesmere Canal is carried 
over the river and vale of Ceiriog, by an aqueduct, which, 
though inferior to the Pont-y-Cyssylltau, is still a work of 
i great magnitude. It was erected from designs by Mr. Telford, 
[and consists of ten arches, supported by pyramidal piers of 
| stone, and extending about 600 feet in length. The height of 
j the central arches is about sixty-five feet above the level of 
-the water. 

About two miles from Chirk, on the road towards Ruabon, 

!ps a pleasing view down a woody vale, at the bottom of which 

flows the river Dee; but this landscape is far exceeded in 

jibeauty by another view obtained at New Bridge, which is a 

[little farther on. 

I Inn, the Hand, or Chirk Castle Arms. 



114 CLYNNOG, 



CHIRK CASTLE, 



About a mile from the village, is the seat of the Middleton 
family, in whose possession it has been since the beginning oi 
the seventeenth century. It is a noble mansion, in the cas- 
tellated style, containing some splendid apartments, and a 
picture gallery, 100 feet by 22. Amongst the portraits is one 
of the Countess of Warwick, the wife of Addison. Here also 
is preserved a bed, in which Charles II. slept, as well as a 
beautiful cabinet, which he presented to the family. The hall 
is adorned with ancient armour. The park is extensive, and 
the plantations are well laid out. 

The view from the hill, on which the house stands, extends 
into seventeen counties. Towards England are seen the plain 
and town of Shrewsbury, its towers and spires; the Clee^- 
hills, extending towards the Malvern hills, in Worcestershire ; 
the solitary Wrekin; and the high land bounding the Vale 
Royal of Chester. Towards Wales appear Llangollen V 
Castel Dinas Bran, the boisterous Dee ; the range of mo 
tains dividing the counties of Merioneth and Montgomery; 
Clwyddian hills ; and the Snowdon chain. 



z 



CLYNNOG, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 






Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caernarvon 11 Pwllheli-.. 11 

Llanllyfni 5 

Or Clynnog Vawr, is a small village, situated on the ) 
western coast of the county, and surrounded on three sides by 
mountains, the fourth being open towards the sea. It is re-" 
markable as having been the residence of St. Beuno, who, it is n 
said, raised St. Winifred to life. He settled here in 616, and 
built an abbey and church. Of the former, no remains exist; 
but the latter is the largest ecclesiastical structure in North 
Wales. It contains some monuments, and an oaken box, 
called Beuno's chest, in which it was formerly the practice to 



COLD BLOW. — CONWAY. 115 

jdrop donations for the support of the building. Adjoining 
|the church is the Chapel, now used as a school, in which the 
jsaint was buried ; and about 1 00 yards distant is his Well, 
iwhich was much resorted to after his death for healing the sick 
land curing the rickets in children. The mode of cure was 
dipping the patient in the well at evening, and leaving him 
upon the saint's tomb during the night. 

Clynnog has two comfortable Inns, one of which is called 
the Newborough Arms. 

COLD BLOW, 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

CarewCastle 8 St. Clare 11 

Narberth 2 Tenby 7j 

Pembroke 12 

Consists of only a few houses. It is said to derive its 
name from the coldness of the wind usually felt here. Inn, 
the Windsor Castle. 

CONWAY, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aber 9£ Llandulas 9£ 

Abergeley 11^ Llanrwst 12 

Bangor - 14£ London 236 

Beaumaris, by Aber Ferry . 14£ Menai Bridge 17 

Caernarvon 23J Penmaen Mawr 6£ 

Or Aberconway, is a picturesque town, situated, as the 
latter name imports, near the mouth of the river Conway, at 
the northern extremity of the county. It is nearly of a tri- 
angular shape, and was formerly surrounded by high massive 
walls, one mile and a half in circumference, strengthened at 
intervals by twenty- four circular and semicircular towers, 
great part of which, with the four principal gateways, yet 

i| remain in a tolerable state of preservation. The population 

H amounts to about 1200. 

] 



116 CONWAY. 

The Castle, built by Edward I. in 1284, is a magnificent 
building, standing on the verge of a precipitous rock, washed 
on two sides by an arm of the river. It is in the form of a 
parallelogram. The walls are all embattled, and are ten or 
twelve feet thick. They are flanked by eight vast circular 
embattled towers, each of which had a slender machicolated > 
tower rising from the top. On the side towards the river, one 1 
of the towers has been rent asunder by some of the inhabitants! 
quarrying the foundation for slates : part of it stands erect, and 1 
part hangs in an oblique direction, forming altogether a sin- 
gular ruin. ' 

The interior consists of two courts, bounded by the various ' 
apartments, all of which are in a lamentable state of decay, 
though still bearing strong marks of former magnificence. 
The grand entrance was formed by a drawbridge over a deep 
and wide fosse. On the south side of the court is the grand 
hall, measuring 139 feet by 32, and 30 feet in height. Its 
roof was supported by eight fine Gothic arches, four of which 
are still in good condition ; and it was lighted by nine ' 
windows. At the east end of the hall is the chapel, with a 
large Gothic window. Near the east end of the court the 
visitor passes into another square court, surrounded by gal- 
leries and small rooms. Opposite the entrance are two towers, 
called the King's Tower and the Queen's. In the latter are 
vestiges, of a beautiful chapel. 

The visitor may ascend to the top of the castle by a ladder, 
and walk round the walls, from which there are fine views of 
the river, the Suspension Bridge, Orme's Head, &c. 

The Castle was strongly fortified, during the civil wars, by 
Dr. John Williams, Archbishop of York, but was captured by 
Colonel Mytton, the parliamentary general, November 6, 1646. 
It was subsequently granted to the Lord of Conway, who : 
removed all the timber, lead, iron, and other materials, and 
consigned the edifice to decay and desolation. The vessels in 
which the materials were being conveyed to Ireland was - 
wrecked, and the whole of the property lost. 

Few spots in the kingdom have more frequently called 



CONWAY. 117 

Jfbrth the talent of the artist : it has been made the scene of 
Jdramatic representation in the Castle Spectre, and has often 
'Ibeen the theme of the poet. The best situation for viewing 
jithis interesting ruin is three or four hundred yards higher up 
the river, on the same side. Here the Castle is seen boldly 
projecting in the foreground, while the suspension bridge 
attached to it appears like a drawbridge to the fortress : part 
of the town is visible on the left; and the mouth of the river, 
opening to the sea, forms the distance; the whole making a 
most enchanting view. 

The Church is a very plain structure, containing a few 
,|monuments of the Wynne family. In the nave is a flat stone, 
with this singular inscription : " Here lyeth the body of 
Nicholas Hookes, of Conwy, Gent., who was the 41st child of 
his father, William .Hookes, Esq., by Alice, his wife, and 
father of 27 children; who died March 20, 1637/' The font 
is of black marble, curiously sculptured. 

The College, founded in the reign of Edward I., is now in 
jjrains ; but still exhibits some specimens of curious work- 
manship. It is situated in Castle Street, and is inhabited by a 
few poor families. 

Near the Market-place is another antique house, called 
J Plas Mawr, now occupied by several families. It was built 
by Robert Wynne, in 1585, and is curiously ornamented, 
according to the fantastic taste of that period. On the front 
are the arms of Elizabeth. There was formerly a Greek 
inscription, denoting " Bear, forbear ;" and there were also the 
letters J.H. S. X. P. S., from which it has been inferred that 
the house was erected for a charitable purpose, as these letters 
may mean " Jesus hominum salvator Christiani populi salus." 
In some of the rooms the initials of Queen Elizabeth and 
Robert Wynne are seen on the walls. The ceilings are divided 
into compartments, and ornamented with numerous devices. 

Conway formerly possessed a Cistercian Abbey, founded 
; by Llewelyn ap Jowerth, in 1185. Slight vestiges of it, 
[converted into a stable, called Stoney, were recently to be seen 
iin the street leading to the castle. 



118 CONWAY. 

Outside of the town, beyond the east gate, is an iron 
Suspension Bridge, of peculiar beauty, which has superseded 
the dangerous ferry formerly existing here over the river 
Conway. This elegant structure was designed by Mr. Tel- ' 
ford, and erected under the superintendence of the same: 
parties who executed the Menai Bridge. The first stone was i 
laid April 3, 1822, and in the summer of 1826 the bridge i 
and embankment connected with it were completed. They:! 
were opened to the public June 1st, in that year. 

The Bridge is supported by eight chains, which repose on 
four stone towers, built in the castellated style, so as to- 
harmonise with the ruins of the adjacent castle. The chains' 
are fastened, at one end, into the rock beneath the castle, and • 
at the other, into an insular rock in the bed of the river. The I 
toll-house at the west extremity is built in the form of a tower, 
so that, at a short distance, it appears to be a part of the 
castle, whilst the bridge seems to be the drawbridge of the ; 
fortress. The whole has a very striking aspect. 

The Embankment, by which the bridge is approached from 
the Abergeley road, is a stupendous structure, extending from 
the insular rock to the eastern shore. It is formed of hard 
clay, found in the immediate vicinity, and faced with stone, to 
preserve it from the action of the sea. From this spot there is 
a very pretty view of the bridge, the town, the castle, and the 
banks of the Conway. 

Dimensions of the Bridge. Teet. - 

Width between the centres of the supporting towers 327 

Deflexion of the main chain 22§ 

Height of the under side of the roadway above high water of 

spring tides 15 

Number of chains 8, each link consisting of five bars of iron, 

Si inches wide and 1 inch thick. 

Dimensions of the Emban7onent. 

Length between the island and the east shore 2015 

Breadth at the top 30 

Average height above high water of spring tides 9 

Height above the same tides at the end next the island 13 

Greatest total height or depth of the embankment 54 

Extreme width of the base where the embankment is highest .... 300 

The river Conway has been celebrated, from the earliest 



CONWAY. 119 



icjperiod, for its pearl fishery. Pliny asserts, that Julius Caesar 
^dedicated to Venus Genitrix, in her temple at Rome, a breast- 
ajplate, set with British pearls ; and Suetonius says, that the 
[chief motive assigned by the Romans for the invasion of 
iJBritain, was to obtain possession of the pearl fishery. This 
tpranch of commerce is not, however, held in much estimation 
at the present day, though the species of muscle, called by 
Linnseus the Mya Margaritifera, which produced the pearls, is 
still found in the river. A pearl presented to the queen of 
pharles II. by Sir R. Wynne, was honoured with a place in 
:|the regal crown. 

The port is a dry harbour, frequented by a few coasting 
(vessels; and the river is navigable up to the village ofTrefriw, 
nwhich is about twelve miles from its mouth. A quay extends 
nlong the east side of the town wall. 

The principal Inns are, the Castle, and the Newborough 
Arms, or the Harp. The market is held on Friday. 

From Conway, the tourist may make an excursion up the 

sjyale of Conway to Llanrwst; the scenery on the banks of the 

iver being particularly beautiful. About five miles from 

ijComvay, on the road to Llanrwst, is Caer-Ilhun, formerly a 

oman station. In its vicinity are several handsome seats. 

RHAIADYR PORTH LLWYD. 

This waterfall is situated in the Vale of Conway, seven 
niles from Conway, and about a mile from the bed of the 
iver. It is formed by a small stream which issues from Llyn 
jeirionydd, and makes a perpendicular descent of 180 feet. 
\i the upper part, two streams descend at some distance from 
;ach other, over a wide and rugged rock, indented with deep 
lefts and enormous chasms, and overhung with numerous 
hrubs. About the middle of the fall the streams unite, and 
ush in foam over the rocks below. The rocks on each side of 
he fall are lofty, and the surrounding scenery is picturesque* 

Llyn Geirionydd is about two miles from the Fall. It is 
[elebrated for having had the residence of Taliesin, the prince 
if- British poets, on its banks. 



120 CORWEN. 

I 

RHAIADYR DOLGARROG, 

About eight miles from Conway, and a mile from Rhaiadyi 
Porth Llwyd, is another waterfall, in the Vale of Conway. 1 
is made by the little stream, called the Dolgarrog, which flows 
out of Llyn Cowlid, about three miles distant; but is not sc 
picturesque a fall, nor so lofty, as that just described. 

CORWEN, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bala Hi Llanrwst 23| 

Bala, by Llandrillo 13| London 194 

Cerig y Druidion 10 Pont y Glyn 5£ 

Denbigh 21 Ruthin 13 

Llangollen 10 

Corwen, i. e. the White Choir, is a small but neat marke 
town, situated on a rock at the foot of the Berwyn mountaii 
and on the south bank of the river Dee. It is much resorte 
to by anglers, as the river abounds with trout, grayling, anc 
salmon. The Holyhead rail-road passes through the town. 

The Church is an ancient building, containing an ok 
monument, in memory of Jorwerth Sulien, one of the vicars 
A doorway, now blocked up, is shewn as the one through whicl 
Owen Glyndwr entered to his pew in the chancel. According 
to tradition, the prince threw his dagger with such force tha 
the impression was left half an inch deep in the stone, whicl 
was preserved as a curiosity, and forms part of the doorwaj 
just mentioned. At Rhug, three miles distant, are preservec 
the knife and fork and dagger of this prince ; the whol< 
enclosed in one case. In the churchyard is a stone pillar, oi 
cross, called the Sword of Glyndwr; and near it are Alms 
Houses, founded in 1709, by W. Eyton, Esq., for the widows 
of six clergymen of Merionethshire. 

Upon the other side of the river, about two miles north o 
Corwen, is a British post, called Caer Drewyn, a circle o 
loose stones, about half a mile in circumference, on the sumrni 



CORWEN. 121 

of a steep hill. It is conjectured that Owen Gwyned occu- 
pied this post while Henry II. was encamped on the opposite 
side of the vale ; and it was afterwards a retreat of the cele- 
brated Owen Glyndwr, whose memory is highly revered in 
this neighbourhood, long the scene of his military exploits and 
hospitality. From this post there is a delightful view of the 
vales of Glyndwrdwy and Edeirnion. Caer Drewyn may be 
distinguished from the churchyard. 

Upon the Berwyn mountain, behind the church, is a place 
called Glyndwr's Seat, from which there is a charming pro- 
spect of the vale of Corwen. 

Inn. The Owen Glyndwr. The Market is held on Tuesday 
and Friday. 

THE BERWYN MOUNTAINS 

Are seen to the south of Corwen. This range of mountains 
rises near Chirk, in Denbighshire, and extends along the south- 
east side of Merionethshire. It is about sixteen miles in length. 
Cader Ferwyn and Cader Fronwyn are the most elevated 
points, the former rising 2107 feet, and the latter 2563 feet 
above the level of the sea. 

RHAIADYR CYNWYD 

Is situated three miles from Corwen, and half a mile to the 
left of the village of Cynwyd, which is on the road to Bala, 
through the Valley of Edeirnion. It is formed by the little 
river Trystiog, which rushes in a furious torrent from the rocks 
above, and roars along its rugged course till it joins the Dee, a 
little above Cynwyd. 

OWEN GLYNDWR'S PALACE 

Was situated at a place called Sychnant, about three miles 
from Corwen, and at a short distance from the road towards 
Llangollen. The site is denoted by a small clump of firs upon 
an eminence. 



122 COWBRIDGE. 

COWBRIDGE, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bridgend 8 Llantrissent 7i 

CaerdifT 12§ St. Donat's 

Llandaff 10 



Cowbridge (in Welsh, Pont y Von) is a small but neat ! 
town, divided into two portions by a small stream called the 
Thaw. The streets are broad, and paved. The Church is a 
singularly-shaped building, and, at a distance, appears like 
the embattled tower of a fortress. Cowbridge also possesses a 
Town-hall, and a Free Grammar School founded by Su 
Llewelyn Jenkins, secretary of state in the time of Charles II.' 
At this school Dr. Price was educated. The Market, held on 
Tuesday, is well supplied. 

Inn. The Bear. 

LLANBETHIAN, 

About two miles from Cowbridge, is a picturesque vill; 
with some remains of a Castle, built prior to the conquest o: 
Glamorganshire by Fitzhamon. It was also called St. Quin- 
tins Castle, from Sir Robert St. Quintin, to whose share it fel 
in the division of the country. The remains have been con 
verted into a barn. 



CRICCAETH, or CRICCIETH, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 






Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Beddgelart 11 Pwllheli 8 

Caernarvon 23J Tremadoc 5 

London 226 

Is a place of great antiquity. It is a market-town wi# 
about 600 inhabitants, and is very irregularly built. On ai 
eminence, at the end of a long neck of land projecting into th 



I 



CRICKHOWEL. 123 

sea, stand the ruins of the Castle, which is supposed by some 
to have been built by Edward I., though others refer it to a 
more remote period. It appears to have consisted of four 
square courts, with two rounded bastion towers at the entrance. 
It was the residence of Sir Howel y Vwyall, who disputed the 
honour of capturing the King of France at Poitiers with a 
knight of Artois. 

The view from the ruins of the Castle over Harlech Bay is 
beautiful. At low water, the causeway called Sam Badrig, as 
well as the smaller one which runs in a direction to meet it, is 
plainly to be seen. The former of these ridges stretches out 
from the Merionethshire shore for upwards of twenty miles 
into the bay. Tradition informs us that these were artificial 
embankments enclosing a part of Merionethshire, till the sea 
broke over the bounds and inundated the country as far as the 
lowlands extended. It is more probable, however, that they 
are the skeletons of hills, reduced to their present appearance 
I by the continued action of the sea, the softer parts having been 
I washed away. 

Inn. The White Lion. 



CRICKHOWEL, 

IN BRECKNOCKSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Abergavenny 6£ Brecon 13| 

Is a small but pretty town, pleasantly situated on a gentle 
eminence, the base of which is watered by the Usk. Over the 
piver is a mean Bridge of fourteen arches. In the middle of 
JHigh Street is the Town-hall, beneath which the market is held 
pn Thursday and Saturday. 

The Church is cruciform, having a chancel, nave, and two 
(transepts, named Rumsey Chapel and Gwernvale Chapel, from 
&wo estates in the vicinity. The tower, containing five bells, 
;jis remarkable as being the only one in the county surmounted 
ppy a spire. In the chancel are several ancient monuments. 



124 CWM YSTWITH. 

The old custom of singing carols in the church at cock-crowing, 
or the earliest dawn of the morning, on Christmas-day, has 
been continued here. 

On the east side of the town are vestiges of the Castle, 
which formerly occupied about two acres. 

About two miles north of Crickhowel is the British post- 
called Craighywel, or Howd's Rock, from which this town took! 
its name. It is an irregular triangle, 510 feet long and 24Q, 

broad. 

The surrounding scenery is very pretty. Near Langattoc 
to the south of Crickhowel, are several natural caverns, and 
in a dingle leading to the Llanelly Iron-Works is a waterfall 
The village of Lampeter, about two miles to the north, contains 
several pretty walks. The farm-house of Cwmgu, at the villagt. 
of Cwm Du, about five miles from Crickhowel, commands r 
fine view. The river abounds with excellent fish, and th< 
neighbouring hills with game. 

TRETOWER, 

About three miles from Crickhowel, on the road to Brecon 
has the ruins of a Castle, which was once the residence 
Mynarch, Lord of Brecon. 

CWM YSTWITH, 

IN CARDIGANSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles.* 

Devil's Bridge « Rhaiadyr 14* 

Is a small inn at a little distance from the high road, situ 
ated in the dreary valley of the Ystwith. 

Near it are extensive lead-mines, lying on the side of tw 
mountains to the north of the river : the entrance to them is b 
the side of the road. In one mountain the lead is procure 
near the surface ; in the other, a level penetrates about 100_ 
feet. The tourist will find himself surrounded by childre 
anxious to sell specimens of the ore. 



DENBIGH. 125 

DENBIGH, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caerwys 74 Mold-.- 151 

Llanrwst • • 18 Ruthin 8 

London, by Shrewsbury • • 206 St. Asaph 5k 

London, by Chester 218 



The county town, is situated on the declivity of a craggy 
hill, near the centre of the beautiful and fertile vale of Clwyd. 
j It is said to bear some resemblance to the town of Stirling in 
i Scotland, and, when viewed from a distance, has a very im- 
i posing aspect. The town is not large, but is generally well 
built, and contains about 3300 inhabitants. 

On a rock commanding the town stand the ruins of the 
Castle, which was founded in the reign of Edward I., by 
j Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln. Charles I. stopped here after 
ibis retreat from Chester in 1645; and, from this circumstance, 
ione of the towers is still called the Royal Apartment. During 
the following year the castle surrendered to the parliament 
forces under General Mytton. After the Restoration, the 
fortifications were blown up, and no portion of the castle is 
now perfect. It appears to have been a superb structure. The 
principal entrance is a Gothic arch between two octagonal 
towers, over which is a statue of Edward I. in an ornamented 
niche. The views of the vale of Clwyd, obtained through the 
broken arches of these ruins, are peculiarly beautiful. The 
Castle itself is seen to the greatest advantage from the Ruthin 
road. 

The Parish Church is situated at Whitechurch, about a 
mile from the town. In the porch, on a small brass plate, is 
the effigy of Richard Middleton, who was Governor of the 
Castle during the reigns of Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, 
uid was the father of Sir Hugh Middleton, who conducted the 
jNew River to London. There is also a mural monument in 
jhonour of Humphrey Llwyd the antiquary. The church is 



126 devil's eridge, or pont y monacii. 

seldom visited by the inhabitants, who usually attend at the 
Chapel of St. Hilary, formerly belonging to the garrison. 

Below the Castle are the fragments of a Church, 170 feet 
long and 71 broad, which was begun by Dudley Earl of 
Leicester, in 1579, but never completed. 

Denbigh has a good Town-hall and a Dispensary. Its 
chief manufactures are gloves and shoes. The Market is held 
on Wednesday and Saturday. 

Inns. The Black Bull, the Crown. 



DEVIL'S BRIDGE, or PONT Y MONACH, 

IN CARDIGANSHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Aberystwith • llj Llanidloes 18£ 

CwmYstwith 3| Rhaiadyr 18* 

Hafod 4 

Pont y Monach, or Pont ar Fynach — that is, the Monk's 
Bridge, vulgarly called the Devil's Bridge, is a single arch, 
between twenty and thirty feet in span, thrown over another 
arch of less than twenty feet below, which crosses a tremendous 
chasm. According to tradition, the lower arch was thrown o 
by the monks of Strata Florida Abbey, about the year 1087; 
but the country people, thinking it a work of supernatu 
ability, ascribed it to the personage whose name it bears, 
abbey of Strata Florida was not, however, founded till 1164; 
The bridge, therefore, could not have been the work of those 
monks, unless its date is placed a century later. Giraldus 
mentions having passed over it in 1188, when he travelled 
through Wales with Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, to 
preach the crusades. 

The upper arch was built over the other at the expense oi 
the county, in 1753, and the iron balustrades were added bv 
Mr. Johnes in 1814. The lower arch may be distinctly viewed 
by looking over the upper bridge ; but the whole scene is 
enveloped in wood, that the depth is not perceived ; and m; 






DEVIL^ BRIDGE, OR PONT Y MONACH. 127 

an incurious traveller has passed the Devil's Bridge without 
distinguishing its circumstances from an ordinary road. The 
cleft over which these two bridges extend has evidently been 
enlarged, and was perhaps originally produced by the incessant 
attack of the impetuous Mynach on the solid wall of rock. 

In order to view the scenery of this romantic spot, the 
visiter should first cross the bridge, and then descend by the 
right of it to the bottom of the aperture, through which the 
Mynach drives its furious passage, having descended from the 
mountains about five miles to the north-east. The depth from 
the present bridge to the bed of the river is 1 14 feet. The 
effect of the double arch is picturesque ; and the narrowness of 
the fissure, darkened by its artificial roof, enhances the solemn 
gloom of the abyss. 

On regaining the road, the second descent must be made 
by passing through a small wood, at the distance of a few yards 
from the bridge, to view the four concatenated falls from the 
point of a rock in front. Each of these is received into a deep 
pool at the bottom, but so diminished to the eye, at the present 
point of view, as almost to resemble one continued cascade. 
The first fall takes place about forty yards south-west of the 
bridge, where the river is confined to narrow limits by the 
rocks. It is carried about six feet over the ridge, and projected 
into a basin at the depth of eighteen feet. Its next leap is sixty 
feet, and the third is diminished to twenty, when it encounters 
rocks of prodigious size, through which it struggles to the edge 
of the largest cataract, and pours in one unbroken torrent down 
a precipice of 110 feet. 

The height of the various falls is as follows : — 

Feet. 

First Fall 18 

Second Fall • • 60 

ThirdFall • 20 

Fourth Fall, or Grand Cataract 110 

208 
Height from the Bridge to the Water 114 



128 devil's bridge, or PONT y monach. 

As, however, no allowance is here made for the inclined 
direction of the river in many parts (and there are numerous 
interruptions to its passage), the total height from the bridge to : 
the level of the stream, at its junction with the Rheidol, maybe 
computed at nearly 500 feet. 

The rocks on each side of the fall rise perpendicularly to 
the height of 800 feet, and are finely clothed with innumerable 
trees vegetating between the crevices, and forming one vast, 
forest. 

From this spot, with the assistance of a guide, a third 
descent may be made to the Fall of the Rhydiol, or Rheidol, 
the approach to which is difficult, and entirely impracticable 
during heavy rains. A huge fragment of rock, projecting over' 
the river for a considerable way, precipitates the stream about 
eighteen feet. This fall is totally different from that of the 
Mynach, being quite destitute of foliage. 

Turning from this scene, and looking along the glen, may 
be perceived the Hafod Arms Inn, standing on the brink of a 
precipice of forests, at a perpendicular height of more than 150 
yards. 

The cascades on the two rivers are not within sight of each 
other, nor is the Devil's Bridge seen from the Falls of the 
Mynach, as erroneously represented in many engravings. 

After repassing the Devil's Bridge, a fourth descent, by the 
side of the Mynach Falls, is to the Robber's Cave, near the ' 
basin of the first fall. This is a dark cavern, inhabited in the 
fifteenth century by two men and their sister, called Plant Matt, 
or Matthew's Children, who infested the neighbourhood as 1 
plunderers, and who continued their depredations for many' 
years with impunity. They were, at length, however, taken 
up for committing murder, and executed. The descent to this 
cavern is very difficult. 

The Hafod Arms, near the Devil's Bridge, is a commodious 
inn and posting-house, erected by the late Mr. Johnes. Here" 
a guide may be obtained to visit the Falls. The view from the" 
windows of this inn is perfectly enchanting. Immediately 
below, and only separated from the house by the road, is a j 



DEVIL'S BRIDGE, OR PONT Y MONACH. 129 

J 

|j profound chasm, stretching east and west about a mile, the 
j almost perpendicular sides of which are covered with trees of 
j different kinds. At the bottom of this abyss runs the river 
JMynach, its roaring tide hidden from the eye by the deep 
I shade of surrounding woods, but bursting upon the ear in the 
lawful sound of many waters — in the thunder of numerous cata- 
racts ; whilst in front of the spectator the Rheidol is seen rush- 
ing down a chasm in the mountains with tremendous fury. 
The woods in the vicinity of the Devil's Bridge abound with 
J nests of the Formica Herculanea, the largest species of ants that 
I are natives of Britain : these nests are composed of small ends 
B ! of twigs, forming a heap a yard or two across, and from one 
J to two feet high. The insects themselves exceed in size three 
I of the ordinary black kind, and are possessed of uncommon 
strength. 

THE PARSON'S BRIDGE, OR PONT BREN, 



Is about two miles from the Devil's Bridge. It consists of two 
rude pieces of timber thrown across a frightful chasm, with 
I a hand-rail on one side only, while beneath the Rheidol forms 
I a boiling whirlpool, and roars with terrific din. It is said to 
have been erected by a parson, during the last century, for the 
convenience of serving the two churches he had under his care ; 
and which, by means of this bridge, and a walk over the hills, 
he was enabled to do with a saving of several miles' distance. 
Some persons, however, assert that the Bridge derives its name 
from the circumstance of a parson who was intoxicated falling 
from it into the torrent beneath ; and they add, that when the 
water is low, the impress of his figure is still visible! The 
surrounding hills are remarkably grand, and the rocks very 
curious, some of them being excavated into deep cylindrical 
pools, and others ridged, and formed, as it were, of concentric 
layers. 

The tourist may readily find the Parson's Bridge by pur- 
suing the following direction : On leaving the Hafod Arms, 
cross the Devil's Bridge, proceed along the Llanidloes road 
for about a mile and a half, till you arrive at the church of 

G2 " 



130 DINAS MOWDDU, OR MOUTHY. 

Yspytty Kenwyn ; cross the stone wall to the left of the 
church, and enter a field, on the opposite side of which is an 
irregular and steep path, descending through underwood to 
the Bridge. 

Yspytty Kenwyn was formerly connected with Strata Flo- 
rida Abbey. In the churchyard are several upright monu- 
mental stones, from which, and the circular form of the 
enclosure, it has been inferred that this was once a Druidical 
temple. 

PONT HERWID, OR ERWYDD, 

Is a rude stone arch, thirty-six feet in span, thrown from, 
rock to rock over a dark and gloomy chasm, formed by the 
passage of the Rheidol. It is about four miles from the Devil's, 
Bridge, on the left of the road to Llanidloes, and is situated in 
a deep and narrow dingle, at the confluence of the rivers Castel 
and Rheidol, surrounded by scenery more wild than that of the 
Devil's Bridge, but not so rich and varied. 



DINAS MOWDDU, or MOUTHY, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bala 17 Llanfair 18 

Cader Idris • • • 7 Machynlleth 12§ 

Dolgelley 9h Mallwyd 2 

Is now an inconsiderable market-town, though in former 
times the seat of a chieftain. It is romantically situated at the 
junction of three vales, on the declivity of a lofty and almost 
perpendicular mountain, where the river Cerris falls into the 
Dovey or Dyfi. Over the latter is a stone Bridge. The 
Market is held on Friday. 



DISERTH. DOLBADERN. 131 

DISERTH, 

IN FLINTSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Holywell 9 Rhuddlan 2£ 

Is a small village, surrounded by hills. The Church or 
Chapel is situated in a hollow, overshadowed by several large 
yews. There are some paintings on the east window, and on 
the south window of the chancel is inscribed " Sir John Con- 
way, 1636." In the churchyard are vestiges of two ancient 
crosses, and on the altar-tomb is carved a rude cross and 
sword. 

Half a mile distant are some fragments of Cerri Castle, 
or Castel y Craig, which was fortified by Henry III. in 1246. 
From this spot there is a fine view of a portion of the Vale of 
Clwyd. 

One mile fromDiserth, in the parish ofCwm, is a beautiful 
cascade, the water of which rises from a small well, called 
Fynnon Asa, or St. Asaplis Well. The perpendicular height 
of this cascade is fifty feet. 

DOLBADERN, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Beddgelart 14 Capel Curig 9 

Caernarvon 7 Llanberis 2 

Dolbadern, that is, Padarn's Meadow, derives its name 
from Padarn, a British saint, of whom little is known. It is 
a hamlet situated in the romantic vale of Llanberis. A small 
but neat inn here, called the Dolbadern Castle, is much fre- 
quented by persons visiting the Vale of Llanberis and wishing 
to ascend Snowdon. The charge for a guide to Snowdorf, from 
this inn, is seven shillings, and for a pony five shillings. An 
excellent road from Dolbadern to Caernarvon was constructed 
!in 1828. 

i 

I 
I 
I 



132 DOLGELLEY. 

Dolbadern Castle is situated between the two lakes of Llan- 
beris, and is the only one that remains in all the narrow passes 
of Wales. It is now reduced to one circular tower, thirty feet 
in diameter, with the ruins of the exterior buildings. This; 
appears to have been the keep or citadel, and to have formed 
the chief part of the fortress, as it occupies the whole of a small 
elevated rock. It is supposed to have been ninety feet in - 
height, and to have consisted of three stories besides a dungeon. 
The remains of a circular staircase lead to the top, from which 
there is a fine view of the entire valley, the two lakes, and the 
surrounding mountains. 

This castle is evidently of British origin, and was perhaps 
erected as early as the sixth century, being mentioned then as, 
in the possession of Maelgwn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, 
during his contest with the Saxons. Here Owen Goch ml 
confined twenty years for rebelling against his brother Llewelyn? 
ap Jorwerth. The view of the ruins from the adjacent lake is, 
particularly beautiful. [J 

Half a mile south of the Castle, at the end of a deep glen, 
is a waterfall, called Caunant or Ceynant Mawr, ths Waterfall; 
of the Great Chasm, about sixty feet in height. A mountain- 
torrent rushes through a cleft in the rock, and, after descending 
for a few yards, suddenly takes a slanting direction, and falls 
with tremendous fury in one grand sheet to the bottom of the 
vale. 

DOLGELLEY, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bala 17 Machynlleth 16| 

Barmouth 10 Maentwrog 18 



Cader Idris • 4 Mallwyd 1U 

DinasMowddu 9| TanyBwlch 18£ 

London 209 Towyn 16£ 



l 



Dolgelley or Dolgellau, pronounced Dolgethly — that is. 
the Hazel Dale, is the principal market-town in the county. Ji 
is situated in a fertile vale, upon the river Gwinion or Union 



ion 



DOLGELLEY. 133 

jand is surrounded on all sides by high, and, in some parts, 
jwoody mountains. The tourist will do well to make this his 
(central station while he examines the various beauties of the 
^neighbourhood, as there is, perhaps, no place in the prin- 
cipality from which excursions may be made with so much 
advantage. 

This town was probably known to the Romans, as many 
coins have been found in its vicinity bearing this inscription : — 
" Imp. Csesar. Trajan." 

The streets are irregular, and the houses generally ill-built. 
The population amounts to upwards of 2000. The principal 
building is the County Hall, erected about 1825, and fitted up 
very commodiously. Outside the town, on the road towards 
Towyn, is the County Gaol. The view from the Bridge is 
remarkably fine. 

The Church has a decent external appearance, but the 
interior is little better than a barn. It contains an ancient 
monument of an armed knight, with a dog at his feet, and a 
lion passant gardant on his shield, on which is inscribed, 
" Hie jacet Maurice, filius Ynyr Vychan." 

A considerable number of persons are employed here in the 
manufacture of flannels, coarse cloths, and kerseymeres. The 
Markets, on Tuesday and Saturday, are well frequented. 

There are three Inns, the Golden Lion, the Ship, and, for 
tourists without a carriage, the Angel. At all these, Guides 
may be obtained for the ascent of Cader Idris, the summit of 
which is about five miles and a half distant. The Guide expects 
five shillings for his services, and charges five shillings for each 
pony the party may choose to have. 

The banks of the river Maw, from Dolgelley to Barmouth, 
are extremely beautiful. A boat for this excursion may be hired 
at the place called the Storehouse, when the water is high, but 
when it is low, at Penmaen Pool, two miles from the town. 
The price of the boat, from Dolgelley to Barmouth, is'about 
three or four shillings; or, from Barmouth to Dolgelley, six 
shillings. Passage-boats go occasionally, the fare in which 
varies from sixpence to one shilling. The tourist should select 



he 
of 



134 DOLGELLEY. 

the time of high water, or the beauty of the scenery will appear 
considerably diminished. 

EXCURSION TO THE WATERFALLS. 

The waterfalls in the vicinity of Dolgelley form a consider-, 
able attraction to tourists : the principal are, Rhaiadyr Du, or, 
the Black Cataract, about five miles from Dolgelley, on the left; 
of the road towards Maentwrog; Rhaiadyr y Mawddack, 
Fall of the Mawddach; and Pistyll y Cayne, or the Spout 
the Cain. The two latter are only separated from each otheib 
by a thick wood, and are about eight miles from Dolgelley, aty 
some distance to the right of the road to Maentwrog. 

Setting out from Dolgelley, and proceeding for about two' 
miles, the tourist crosses a bridge, and arrives at the pretty vil-, 
lage of Llaneltyd, situated on the river Mawddach, and forming 
a kind of port to Dolgelley. Many small vessels are built here. 
Thence he proceeds along the vale to a small alehouse called' 
the Traveller's Rest, where a guide to the Falls may be obtained: 
if the tourist has not taken one with him from Dolgelley. 

RHAIADYR DU, OR THE BLACK CATARACT, 

Is situated at Dol-y-Melynllyn, that is, the Holme of the 
Yellow Pool. It is a double fall, about sixty feet high, and the 
water foams with a thundering noise among the black rocks, 
down which it falls. These rocks give to the scene a singular! 
appearance, from their being in many places covered with 
pure white lichen. 

The lively and varied green of the trees which hang over 
the stream forms an elegant contrast to the almost jet black 
rocks on either side. The torrent rolls into a small deep basing 
where it is dashed along a rugged channel, and falls into the_ 
Mawddach, at no great distance. Mr. Maddocks was at the> 
expense of making a good foot-path both to the bottom and: I 
upper part of this fall, giving to the traveller every possible 
means of seeing it to advantage. 

The tourist must then return to the high road, and, passing 
along it for about a mile, turn to the right, in order to visit 



DOLGELLEY. 135 



RHAIADYR Y MAWDDACH. 



This stream falls down a rock between sixty and seventy 
I feet in height, the strata of which, lying in parallel lines several 
I degrees inclined from the horizon, give the scene a singular and 
I crooked appearance. The stream is thrice broken in its de- 
i scent : the first fall, about eighteen feet, precipitates itself into 
! a basin thirty feet in diameter; the second fall is over a ledge 
t of rock about thirty feet high ; and in the third the water falls 
i into a large basin. The rocks and trees form an amphitheatre 
)J around, and the fore-ground is finely broken by large pieces of 
'rock. 

Separated only by a wood from the Rhaiadyr y Maw- 
•ddach, is 

PISTYLL Y CAYNE, OR SPOUT OF THE CA.YNE. 

This is by far the highest and most magnificent cataract of 
the three. A narrow stream rushes down a vast rock, about 
1200 feet high, the horizontal strata of which run in irregular 
jsteps through its whole breadth, and form a mural front. These, 
jindeed, are so regular, as in a great measure to spoil its pictu- 
resque beauty, unless hidden by a volume of water much greater 
than usual. Immense fragments of broken rock, scattered 
^around in every direction, at the foot of the fall, communicate 
:|a pleasing effect; and the agreeable mixture of tints of the dark 
oak and birch, with the yellower and fading elm, forms a scene 
ighly picturesque. 

Y VANNER, OR Kl'MMER ABBEY. 

J The remains of this Abbey are situated about one mile and 
ja half from Dolgelley, and half a mile from Llaneltyd, near the 
abanks of the Maw. It was founded in 1 1 98, by Meredith and 
[[Griffith, lords of Merioneth and sons of Cynan ap Owen Gwy- 
c .|nedd, prince of North Wales. The monks were of the Cister- 
cian order, and the abbey was dedicated to St. Mary. 

Part of the church of this monastery only is left, and the 
ectory and abbot's lodging are built into the adjoining farm- 



lefe 



136 DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE. 

house. The east end is the most perfect, and through its thick 
covering of ivy may be observed three small lancet windows. 
Against the south wall are a few small Gothic pillars and 
arches, and an aperture in the wall, in which was probably 
kept the holy water. In this part of the building there has' 
also been a semicircular door, opposite to two small arches, 
and near them a mutilated stone representing the head of a' 
human figure. 

NANNEAU PARK, 

About two miles from Dolgelley, was once the residence of 
Howel Sele, an inveterate enemy of Owen Glyndwr. The pre- 
sent handsome mansion was erected by Sir Robert Yaughan, to; 
whose family the estate now belongs. In the upper part of the 
park are the remains of a British post called Mod Orthrwn, or 
the Hall of Oppression. 

In the demesne of Nanneau formerly stood a large oak, 1 
measuring twenty-eight feet in girth. It was called Ceubren yr 
Ellyll, or the Spirit's Blasted Tree, — an appellation which if 1 
derived from a tradition founded on the deadly feud which' 
subsisted between Owen Glyndwr and his kinsman Howel Sele, 
then resident at Nanneau. This tree fell down on the night of 
July 27, 1813, and its trunk was then converted into work-' 
tables, cabinets, snuff-boxes, &c, which Sir R. Yaughan dis- 
tributed amongst his friends. 

DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Capel Curig 5 Llanrwst 10 V 

Is situated on a lofty rock, in a vale entirely enclosed by 
mountains. It originally consisted of two square towers, each 
three stories high, having one room on a story. Between these. 
was a court-yard. Little remains of the building, which is said 
to have been erected in the sixth century. Jorwerth Drwyndwn 






DUNRAVEN. 137 

! 

imade this castle his residence, and here his son Llewelyn the 
JJGreat is said to have been born. 

A mile distant is the village of Dolwyddelan, consisting of 
nly a few small cottages. 

Near the village is Pont y Pair, a singular bridge of five 
arches, crossing the Llugwy, the bed of which is covered with 
large masses of rock. 

DUNRAVEN, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 



Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bridgend < 5 St. Donat's 5 

Ewenny Priory 3 



Or Din Dryvan Castle, an ancient seat of the Wyndham 
family, stands on a rocky promontory on the sea-shore, 100 feet 
in height. The present mansion is a modern building, in the 
pointed style, erected on the site of the ancient structure. It 
,jcommands fine sea-views, and is surrounded by grand rocky 
pcenery. 

Dunraven is satisfactorily ascertained to have been the 
jabode of Caradoc, the Caractacus of British and Roman his- 
tory, and also of his father, Bran ab Llyr. After the capture 
of this celebrated British hero, the lords of Glamorgan conti- 
nued to reside here occasionally, from whom the estate passed 
to the Vaughans, and from them to the Wyndhams. 

In the cliffs on the shore, about a mile west of Dunraven, 
are several large and curious excavations caused by the percus- 
sion of the sea. One called the Cave is a passage or colonnade 
running parallel with the sea-shore, having its entrance towards 
the south. Another is called the Wind Hole, as, when the sea 
blows fresh from the south-east, the air is forced with consider- 
able violence through two or three fissures in its roof. This cave 
is about eighty feet in length. It can only be entered at spring 
tides, and then the stranger should be accompanied by a guide. 
Another excavation has received the appellation of Fairy Cave, 
jfrom the petrifactions and grotesque shapes which the strata 
jassume. 



138 ELLESMERE. — EWENNY PRIORY. 



ELLESMERE, 

IN SHROPSHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Chirk 7 Shrewsbury 16 J 

Oswestry 8 Wrexham 12 i 

Overton 5 

This is a neat town, situated on the borders of a lake of 100 
acres, well stocked with fish, particularly eels, from which the 
place derives its name, and finely fringed with wood. The site 
of the Castle, now a Bowling Green, commands a good view,; 
In the east window of the Church is a fine specimen of glass- 
staining, executed by Mr. David Evans in 1829 : it represents 
St. Paul and the four Evangelists. 

Inns. The Royal Oak, the Bridgewater Arms, the Black 
Lion. 

HANMER 

Is a village five miles north-east of Ellesmere, in a detached 
portion of Flintshire. In the church is a handsome monument, 
executed by Bacon, and erected, in 1806, to the memory of 1 
Lord Chief Justice Kenyon, who was born at Gredington, in the 
vicinity. There is another monument, in honour of Sir Thomas 
Hanmer, who was Speaker in the reign of Queen Anne. Han- 
mer Lake contains about fifty acres. 



EWENNY PRIORY, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom 

Bridgend 2 Newton 

Cowbridge 6 Pyle 

Dunraven 3 



Was founded about 1140, by Maurice or John Londres ; ; 
lord of Ogmore Castle, but formerly belonged to Gloucester 
Abbey. It is situated close to the road from Newton to Pyle,. 
in a marshy plain near the banks of the river Ewenny. The" 



FESTINIOG. 139 

Church is indisputably of greater antiquity than any other 
building in Wales, and affords a fine specimen of the Saxon 
style of architecture. It is said to have been finished before 
the year 1100. The arches are all circular, the columns short, 
round, and massive, and the capitals simple. The tower is 
supported by four arches, upwards of twenty feet in the span. 
The church contains numerous monuments, but the most curious 

I are those of the founder and of his friend Sir Roger de Remi. 

'The latter has frequently but erroneously been ascribed to 

i: Payne Turberville, whose family long inhabited the adjacent 

' mansion-house. 

FESTINIOG, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bala 19J TanyBwlch 2| 

Llanrwst • • 18 Tremadoc 9i 

Maentwrog 2£ 

Festiniog, that is, the Place of Hastening, is a small village 
situated on a hill at the head of the enchanting vale of Maent- 
wrog, the beauties of which were celebrated by the pen of Lord 
Lyttleton in 1756. " With the woman one loves, with the friend 
of one's heart, and a good study of books, one may pass an age 
there and think it a day. If one has a mind to live long, and 
renew his youth, let him come and settle at Festiniog." Various 
other travellers have lavished encomiums on this spot. Mr. 
Pennant calls it the " Tempe of the country ." Mr. Warner 
says, "that it comprehends every object that can enrich or diver- 
sify a landscape." And Mr. Wyndham tells us, that " it affords 
as rich studies for the painter as the neighbourhood ofTivoli or 
Frascati." After such exalted praise, the tourist may chance to 
be disappointed. The valley is bounded by high mountains, 
shaded with lofty oaks, richly cultivated, and watered by the 
Dwyryd, a limpid stream flowing across sands into the sea, 
which terminates the view. 

There are two Inns, the Pengwern Arms, where post-horses 

! 
! 
I 



140 FESTINIOG. 

may be obtained, and the Newborough Arms. Connected with 
the former is a Lodging-House, where board and lodging are 
charged \l. Is. per week. 

At a short distance behind the Pengwern Arms is a Meeting- 
House, which is a good station for viewing the valley. 

About half a mile from Festiniog are the 

RHAIADYR DU, OR FALLS OF THE CYNFAEL. 

One of them is about 300 yards above, and the other 300 
yards below, a rustic stone bridge. The upper fall is formed 
by three steep rocks, over which the water foams into a deep 
black basin, overshadowed by the adjoining rocks. The other 
is formed by a broad sheet of water, precipitated down a slightly : 
shelving rock, about forty feet high. After the water has reached 
the bottom of the deep concavity, it rushes along a narrow rocky 
chasm, where, rolling amid the shaggy rocks, it glistens among 
the scattered fragments, and, falling from slope to slope, gains a 
smoother bed, and steals among the mazes of the vale. 

Between the lower cataract and the bridge is a tall columnar 
rock, which stands in the bed of the river, called Pulpit Hugh 
Llwyd Cynfael, or Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit. 

PISTYLL Y CWM 

Is another fall of the Cynfael, situated three miles from 
Festiniog. It is visible from the high road towards Bala. 
Green hills rise steeply from it on either side, but it is not 
so pretty as the falls lower down the stream. 

LLYN CONWY, OR CONWAY, 

The source of the river of that name, is situated about seven 
miles from Festiniog, on the right of the road to Llanrwst ; but - 
it is not very easy of access, on account of the bogs by which it ' 
is surrounded. It is about one mile and a half long, and con- 
tains several islands. 






FISHGUARD. 141 

FISHGUARD, 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Cardigan, by Newport • • • • 17£ Newport 7 

Haverfordwest 14 St. David's 16 

London 249 

Is situated upon a steep rock, projecting into St. George's 
Channel. The harbour, formed by the mouth of the river 
Gwaen, extends about three miles from east to west, and two 
j from north to south. This place bore the name of Fishgarth 
ias far back as the time of Richard II. ; garth, in Saxon, sig- 
nifying a wear. 

The town may be divided into upper and lower; the 
former, occupying the eminence above the harbour, contains 
the Church, the Market-place, and the principal shops ; the 
latter, the natural appendage to the port, is situated on the east 
iside of the river, and consists of a single and double row of 
! buildings of considerable length. The road leading from one 
| to the other winds along the edge of a precipitous hill, and 
affords a fine view of the bay and harbour. The streets are 
irregular, and the houses generally badly built. The latter, 
however, are annually whitewashed all over, both roof and 
walls, so that they have a cleanly appearance. The population 
amounts to 2000 persons, who are chiefly supported by the 
herring fishery. 

The Church presents nothing remarkable. A few yards 
from the north-east wall is a distinct echo. Between the 
church and the river is a cromlech, formed by a stone, about 
nine feet in diameter and nine tons in weight, resting on 
others. 

Fishguard is celebrated on account of the invasion, which 
took place here February 20th, 1797, when about 1400 
Frenchmen, under the command of General Tate, landed on 
the coast. The neighbouring peasantry were immediately 
armed, the militia and fencibles, 660 strong, were collected 
the same evening, under the direction of Lord Cawdor, and 



142 FLINT. 

on the next day, the French troops surrendered, and gave up 
their arms, on Goodwich Sands. 

The rock upon which the French made their descent is: 
situated a little below the village of Llanwnda, about two miles 
and a half from Fishguard. Near it is Trehowel, a house 
which General Tate made his head-quarters, and afterwards 
plundered. 

FLINT, 

IN FLINTSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Holywell 5£ Mold 6i ] 

London 200 Northop > 3 

The deserted capital of the county, is a small and irre- 
gularly-built town, situated on the estuary of the Dee. It is 
supposed to have been a Roman British town, as it is formed' 
on the plan of a Roman encampment, with regular ramparts,' 
and four fortified gates. This also appears evident from the 
number of Roman coins and instruments which have been 
found here. The lines of the streets are now broken, the walls 1 
and ramparts have been obliterated, the market has been" 
discontinued, the assizes removed to Mold, and the place 
looks like a deserted village. In summer, however, it is 
frequented for sea-bathing, though the marshy beach is some- 
times unfavourable for the purpose. 

The Castle is now in a decayed state. It stands upon a 
rock, in a marsh upon the south bank of the Dee, the channel 
of which formerly passed immediately beneath its walls. Thei: 
building was originally a parallelogram, occupying about an 
acre, with circular towers at each angle. One, detached from: 
the walls, seems to have been an additional work : it consists 
of two circular walls, each six feet thick, including an area . 
between them, twenty feet in diameter, having a gallery 
opening into it, with four entrances. This is called the Double 
Tower, or Dungeon. 

The time when the Castle was erected is unknown. 
Camden attributes its commencement to Henry II., and 



GLASBURY. 143 

Leland ascribes it to Edward I. Richard II. was here be- 
trayed by Percy, Earl of Northumberland, into the hands of the 
Duke of Lancaster, soon after his return from Ireland; and 
hence he was conducted to Chester, where he was deposed. 
The Castle was dismantled by the Parliament during the Civil 
Wars, after having sustained a lengthened siege. 

The Church, or rather Chapel of Ease, the Guildhall, and 
the County Gaol, are the public buildings ; but the latter is 
the only one entitled to notice. Over the gateway is an 
inscription, which was written by the late Thomas Pennant, 
Esq. 

Passage Boats go daily from Flint to Chester, starting 
[according to the state of the tide. There are likewise boats 
crossing daily from Flint and Bagilt to Parkgate : the estuary 
is about seven miles wide. 

Inns. The Royal Oak, the Ship. Population, 1600. 

About a mile from the town, on the lower road to Chester, 
jwas Atis Cross, or Croes Ati, where tradition states that a large 
town formerly stood. 

The road from Flint, along the coast, through Bagilt and 
Greenfield, is very populous, owing to the extensive lead, coal, 
and copper works, established at intervals the whole of the 
way. 

GLASBURY, 

IN BRECKNOCKSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Brecon 11 Hay 4£ 

Builth 11 

Pronounced Glazebury, is a small village, situated on the 
Wye, over which Edwards, the architect of Pont y Pridd, 
erected an elegant bridge of five arches. This, however, was 
destroyed by a flood at the end of the last century. In the 
vicinity are several gentlemen's seats, the principal of which 
are, Maeslough Hall, Gwernalt Lodge, and Llangoed Castle. 



144 GLOUCESTER. GLYN NEATH. 

GLOUCESTER, 

IN GLOUCESTERSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bristol • 34£ London, by Oxford 102 

Hereford 30J London, by Faringdon 106 

Ledbury 16J Ross 161 

Is situated near the borders of Wales, and is sometimes, 
selected as the point from which to commence a tour of the! 
Principality. We, therefore, insert a slight notice of it, and. 
refer the reader for a more minute account to " Leigh's Road 
Book of England and Wales." 

It is the capital of the county, and is situated on the 
Severn, by means of which, and of the Ship Canal recently 
constructed, it carries on an extensive trade. 

The Cathedral, originally the Abbey Church, is a noble 
building, containing many interesting monuments and a curious 
whispering gallery. 

Near the city is a well-frequented Mineral Spring; anc 
from the top of Vineyard Hill, one mile distant, there is e 
fine view. 

Inns. The Bell, the Booth Hall, the King's Head, the Ram 
Population, 10,000. 

GLYN NEATH, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. - 

Aberdare 8 Neath 11 

Brecon 25 Pont Neath Vaughan ■ • • • 2 

Merthyr Tydvil 13 - 

Glyn Neath, or Cwm Neath, is a small village, situated, ai 
its name imports, in the Valley of the Neath. It has i. : . 
tolerable Inn, called the Lamb and Flag, where post-chaise 
and cars may be obtained . This is a good station from whicl 
to visit the Waterfalls of the Hepste, the Mellte, &c, as thi 
Inn is superior to that at Pont Neath Vaughan. In th< 
parlour are several paintings representing the Waterfalls. I 



GOODRICH CASTLE. 145 

was at this house that Hatfield, who married the Maid of But- 
termere, was apprehended. See " Leigh's Guide to the 

Lakes." 

GOODRICH CASTLE, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles- 

Monmouth • 6 Wilton 3§ 

Ross 4£ 

Is an interesting ruin situated on an eminence on the 
banks of the Wye, which here makes a graceful sweep. There 
is no doubt but that this was a frontier post held by the 
Saxons, and many parts of the ruin still bear a Saxon or early 
Norman character. In the reign of King John, and in several 
succeeding ages, it was in the possession of the Earls of Pem- 
broke, but afterwards passed into the Talbot family. During 
the Civil Wars, it was at first occupied by the Parliament, and 
(successively afterwards by both parties; but in 1646 it was 
[garrisoned for the King by Sir Richard Lingen, and taken by 
Colonel Birch. 

This castle appears to have been of considerable strength, 
though not very extensive. The various styles of architecture 
visible in the remains, indicate that it was originally built by 
the Anglo-Saxons, but successively altered in the twelfth, 
fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries. Its form is nearly square, 
measuring 156 feet by 144, with a large round tower at each 
ingle. 

The best way of viewing the Castle is to enter at the Gate 
House, which was evidently constructed for a series of port- 
cullises. On the right, beyond the Drawbridge, is a loop- 
lole, by which the porter received messages previous to 
opening the gates. Over the Gateway was the Guard Room ; 
md beneath the causeway, which supported the drawbridge, 
. |vas a sally-port for cavalry. 

On the north, or right hand, beyond the Gateway, are 
pvindows, used for reconnoitring the passage over the Wye ; 
jind in front, on the west side, is the Hall. On the south side 



146 



GOODRICH CASTLE. 



is an angular tower; and next to it, in the centre, the ancierr 
Ango-Saxon Keep, with a Norman staircase. On the eas 
side are the remains of a Chapel, with an ornamented Gothk 1 
window, and a stone chalice for holding holy water. A 
curious octagon column, near the Hall, is evidently the centre; 
round which the grand staircase was carried; but the towc 
which enclosed it has been destroyed. 

One of the towers is called Mackbeth's, from the name o 
an Irish prisoner and his son, with whose ransom it is said % 
have been built. The helmet of the former, which was Ion}; 
preserved here, held half a bushel. 

From the south-west angle of the Castle, by the wicke 
field-gate, may be seen the trench by which the besieger 
advanced to storm the castle from the opposite hill. From th 
Barbican there is a fine view of the front of the building, an< 
facing the north, of the adjacent country. 

GOODRICH COURT, 

The seat of Dr. Meyrick, the well-known antiquary, and th 
author of an elaborate work on the History of Armour, \\ 
situated near Goodrich Castle, crowning an eminence ovei 
hanging the Wye. The building is modern, and, indeed, i 
not yet completed. The material is stone, and the archi 
tecture that of the time of Edward II. It is highly creditably 
to the talents of Mr. E. Blore, under whose superintendenc 
the fabric has been erected, for the express purpose of receivin. 
Dr. Meyrick's unrivalled collection of armour. 

The edifice is of quadrangular form, enclosing a court 
yard, and is adorned with square and round towers, s I 
disposed as to give it a picturesque effect. The entrance i 
over a drawbridge, through a groined archway between tw 
round towers, and the drive thence leads to a Gothic porch, o 
tke door within which is a very curious knocker : it is ext 
cuted in bronze, from the design of Giovanni di Bologna, an 
represents Samson slaying the Philistines. 

The entrance-hall is decorated with hunting weapons, cross- 
bows, glaives, and halberds, with trophies of arms on th 



GRESFORD. 147 

r staircase and over the doors. The fire-place was designed from 
>ja monument at Winchelsea. 

The hastilude chamber, which leads to the grand armoury, 

is in an opposite part of the building, and is approached 
• through the Asiatic armoury, South Sea chamber, and ban- 
3 queuing hall. It is calculated to give a complete idea of an 

ancient tournament, and exhibits a joust between two knights 

on horseback, whilst others in the list are waiting for their 
J|turns. At the back are the royal box and the heralds, with 
ii rewards for the victorious combatants. The grand armoury is 

a noble apartment. 

B ! 

GRESFORD, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Chester 8 Wrexham 3 j 

Is a small village, with a very beautiful Church, erected in 
the fifteenth century. It is situated on rising ground, at the 
end of the village, and is built of freestone. Its length is 123 
feet, and its breadth 59 feet. The tower, which is°quadran- 
gular, is 90 feet in height, and contains a very fine set of 
twelve bells, ranked as one of the Seven Wonders of Wales 
Upon one side is a statue of Henry VII. The east window 
was formerly ornamented with groups, representing the history 
of several saints, and having in the centre some figures of the 
Virgm Mary. Under each group are sentences in her praise 
Her history also occupies the east window of the north aisle 
In the south aisle is the tomb of an armed man, with this in 
scnption: « Hie jacet Madoc ap Llewelyn ap Grynydd, obiit 
1-331." A monument to Mr. Parry, in the chancel, was sculp- 
tured by Westmacott. The churchyard contains a number of 
large yew-trees. 

Gresford Lodge is a neat freestone mansion, built from 
designs by Wyatt. It is situated in the valley watered by 
'theAlun. J 



In the immediate vicinity is an eminence, called the Rofts, 



148 GROSMONT. 

formerly a British camp, treble trenched, having at one corner 
a lofty mount or keep. i 

Upper Gwersilt Hall, near Gresford, on the banks of the 
Alun, was the residence of Colonel Robinson, a distinguished 
adherent of Charles I., who was buried in Gresford Church in 
1680. Lower Gwersilt was also occupied by another Royalist, 
Jeffrey Shakerly. 

Marford Hill, a little beyond Gresford, on the road towards 1 : 
Chester, commands an extensive view of the Vale of Cheshire, 
the city of Chester, and the river Dee. j 

GROSMONT, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Abergavenny 10 Screnfrith Castle • 5 

Monmouth 10£ 

This small village is situated in a valley, watered by the 
Monnow, and was formerly a place of some importance,' 
though it now consists of only small cottages. It is remark- 
able for the ruins of its Castle, which rise picturesquely above 
the river. This building was of irregular form, and sur- 
rounded by a dry moat. Large circular towers cover the: 
angles of the ramparts, within which are traces of the hall and 
other rooms. The arches of the doors and windows appear to. 
have been in the pointed style prevalent in the thirteenth i 
century; but the castle is supposed to have been founded by 
the ancient Britons. 

This fortress was besieged by the Welsh, under Prince 1 
Llewelyn; but before he could take it, says Lambarde, " the T 
king came with a great army to raise the siege, whereof, as: 
soon as the Welshmen had understanding, they saved their i 
lives by their legs." The castle was a favourite residence of 
the Earls of Lancaster. The environs present many pleasing - 
views. 

The Church is a handsome building, in the form of a 



GWINDU. HAFOD. 149 

cathedral, having a nave with two aisles, a transept, and a 
chancel. 

GWINDU, 

IN ANGLESEA. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Holyhead 12| Menai'Bridge 13£ 



Llangefni 



Gwindu, or Gwindy, that is, the Whitewashed House, is 
Ian Inn on the old road from Bangor to Holyhead. It was 
(considered the half-way inn and posting-house previous to the 
i formation of the New Road and erection of Mona Inn. 



HAFOD, 

IN CARDIGANSHIRE. 



Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberystwith 15J Rhaiadyr 17 

Devil's Bridge 4 Strata Florida 5 

Hafod, or Havod, that is, the Summer Residence, has been 
long and justly celebrated as the seat of the late Thomas 
Johnes, Esq., who was Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum 
of the county of Cardigan, as well as its representative in 
Parliament, and who, in addition to these honours, enjoyed the 
reputation of being an enlightened patron of literature and the 
fine arts, and a distinguished benefactor of the neighbouring 
peasantry. 

The estate was formerly a barren waste, but under the 
superintendence of Mr. Johnes, the wilderness was made to 
smile, and the worthless heath clothed with waving woods. 
Between October 1795 and April 1801, upwards of 2,0(?5,000 
trees were planted, of which 1,200,000 were larches, exclusive 
of a great number of acres sown with acorns. For many years 
(after that period the plantations were extended on the same 
| scale, and from 100,000 to 200,000 trees were annually 

] 

! 



150 HAFOD. 

planted, including larches, birches, mountain ashes, beeches, 
elms, and oaks. 

The entrance to the grounds is formed by a rude stone 
arch, beyond which the carriage road winds to the right, partly 
through a grove of various trees, and partly through a majestic 
forest of oaks, till a turn round a projecting rock at the ex- 
tremity of the wood brings the house in full view. ' 

The Mansion was originally erected from designs by 
Mr. Nash; but having been burnt down in 1807, was rebuilt 
on nearly the same plan by Mr. Baldwyn, of Bath. It is a 
handsome edifice, in which a sort of Greek and Saxon archi- 
tecture is blended with the prevailing Gothic, and is situated 
at a short distance from the banks of the Ystwith. In front is> 
a sloping lawn, commanding a fine view of the valley, which is 
bounded by lofty hills, clothed with luxuriant woods. 

The principal apartments are on the ground floor, above- 
which is only one story. They are fitted up in a style ot l 
elegant simplicity, and some of them adorned with chimney- 
pieces of the most exquisite workmanship. The first collection' 
of scarce and valuable books, manuscripts, paintings, &c, made 
by Mr. Johnes, was unfortunately burnt in the fire ofl807;' : 
but another, almost equal in value, was afterwards obtained 
and disposed in this noble mansion. 

The grounds are very extensive. A great number of walks* 
branch off in different directions through the woods, extending 
altogether to a distance of about eight or ten miles, and pre- 
senting numerous grand and romantic prospects. The river 
Ystwith forms several cascades, and its banks are finely 
fringed with wood. In one part of the grounds is a monument 
in memory of Francis, Duke of Bedford ; and near it is a vase, 
erected over the remains of a red-breast, and inscribed with 
some lines by Mr. Rogers. 

The Church is a very plain structure, designed by Wyatt. 
The north window is adorned with painted glass ; and over the 
altar is a picture by Fuseli, representing Christ and the two 
Disciples at Emmaus, but it has been sadly injured by the 
damp. In the centre of the church is a richly-sculptured font. 



HAFOD. 151 

; At one corner of the churchyard, enclosed by iron railings, is 
the burial place of the Johnes family. Miss Johnes died in 
1811, and a monument to her memory, executed by Chan trey, 
was intended to be erected in the church. The estate, how- 
II ever, having been in chancery, the monument had not reached 
the place of its destination in 1830. Mr. Johnes died at 
Exeter in 1816, and was buried at Hafod. The whole of this 
splendid domain was put up to auction by Mr. Robins in the 
spring of 1831. 

Tickets to view the house and grounds may be obtained at 
jthe Hafod Arms Inn, Devil's Bridge. 

As some persons may wish to know the appearance of 
j' Hafod in its best days, we subjoin the elegant, though flat- 
tering description given of it by Mr. Cumberland : — 

* Havod is a place in itself so pre-eminently beautiful, that 
- it highly merits a particular description. It stands surrounded 
]| with so many noble scenes, diversified with elegance as well 
J as with grandeur; the country, on the approach to it, is so very 
, wild and uncommon, and the place itself is now so embel- 
jj lished by art, that it will be difficult, I believe, to point out a 
i spot that can be put in competition with it, considered either 
J as the object of the painter's eye, the poet's mind, or as a 
desirable residence for those who, admirers of the beautiful 
J wildness of Nature, love also to inhale the pure air of aspiring 
y mountains, and enjoy that santo pace, as the Italians ex- 
y pressively term it, which arises from solitudes made social by 
J a family circle. 

.<! " From the portico it commands a woody, narrow, winding 
J vale ; the undulating forms of whose ascending, shaggy sides, 
J are richly clothed with various foliage, broken with silver 
|y waterfalls, and crowned with climbing sheep-walks, reaching 
I to the clouds. 

t " Neither are the luxuries of life absent ; for on the margin 
I, of the Ystwith, where it flows broadest through this delicious 
tj vale, we see hot-houses and a conservatory : beneath the rocks 
r| a bath ; amid the recesses of the woods a flower-garden ; and, 
| within the building, whose decorations, though rich^ are pure 



152 HAFOD, 

and simple, we find a mass of rare and valuable literature, 
whose pages here seem doubly precious, where meditation 
finds scope to range unmolested. 

" In a word, so many are the delights afforded by the 
scenery of this place and its vicinity, to a mind imbued with 
any taste, that the impression on mine w T as increased, after an 
interval of ten years from the first visit, employed chiefly in 
travelling among the Alps, the Apennines, the Sabine Hills, ' 
and the Tyrolese ; along the shores of the Adriatic, over the 
Glaciers of Switzerland, and up the Rhine ; where, though in 
search of beauty, I never, I feel, saw any thing so fine — never- 
so many pictures concentred in one spot ; so that, warned by 
the renewal of my acquaintance with them, I am irresistibly 
urged to attempt a description of the hitherto almost virgin 
haunts of these obscure mountains. 

" Wales, and its borders, both North and South, abound, 
at intervals, with fine things : Piercefield has grounds of great 
magnificence, and wonderfully picturesque beauty ; Downton 
Castle has a delicious woody vale, most tastefully managed ; 
Llangollen is brilliant ; the banks of the Conway savagely 
grand; Barmouth romantically rural; the great Pistill Rhayader 
is horribly wild ; Rhayader Wennol, gay, and gloriously irre- 
gular, — each of which merits a studied description. 

" But at Havod and its neighbourhood I find the effects 
of all in one circle ; united with this peculiarity, that the deep 
dingles and mighty woody slopes, which, from a different 
source, conduct the Rhyddol's never-failing waters from Plyn- 
limmon, and the Fynache, are of an unique character, as 
mountainous forests, accompanying gigantic size with graceful 
forms ; and, taken altogether, I see ' the sweetest interchange 
of hill and valley, rivers, woods and plains, and falls, with 
forests crowned, rocks, dens, and caves/ insomuch, that it 
requires little enthusiasm there to feel forcibly with Milton, 

' All things that be send up from earth's great altar 
Silent praise!' 

" There are four fine walks from the house, chiefly through 



HARLECH. 153 

ways artificially made by the proprietor ; all dry, kept clean, 
land composed of materials found on the spot; which is chiefly 

Ca coarse stone, of a grayish cast, friable in many places, and 
like slate, but oftener consisting of immense masses, that cost 
I the miner, in making some parts of these walks, excessive 
j labour ; for there are places where it was necessary to perforate 
the rock many yards, in order to pass a promontory, that, 
jutting across the way, denied further access, and to go round 
which you must have taken a great tour, and made a fatiguing 
descent. As it is, the walks are so conducted that few are 
steep; the transitions easy, the returns commodious, and the 
branches distinct. Neither are they too many, for much is left 
; for future projectors ; and if a man be stout enough to range 
|the underwoods, and fastidious enough to reject all trodden 
J paths, he may, almost every where, stroll from the studied 
line till he be glad to regain the friendly conduct of the well- 
known way. 

" Yet one must be nice not to be content at first to visit 

| the best points of view by the general routine ; for all that is 

j here done has been to remove obstructions, reduce the ma- 

i terials, and conceal the art ; and we are no where presented 

with attempts to force the untamed streams, or indeed to 

invent any thing where nature, the great mistress, has left all 

art behind." 

HARLECH, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE. 



Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Barmouth 10 Tan y Bwlch 10 

Maentwrog 91 Tremadoc 10 



i Harlech, Harleigh, or Harddlech, that is, a bold rock, was 
j formerly one of the principal towns in the county, but has now 
j dwindled to an insignificant village, containing not mofe than 
j 500 or 600 inhabitants. 

The Castle, formerly called Twr-Bronwen, from Bronwen 
(the fair necked), sister to Bren ap Llyr, Duke of Cornwall, 

i h 2 



154 HARLECH. 

and afterwards King of Britain, is situated on a lofty rock, 
once washed by the waves of the sea, which has now retired to 
some distance. It is one of the most entire in Wales, and is 
in the possession of the crown. The form is quadrangular, ' 
each side measuring about 210 feet, and every corner having a 
round tower, formerly surmounted by a smaller turret of the 
same shape. Most of these turrets are destroyed. The Castle 
is quite inapproachable, except on the east side, where it is[ 
defended by a deep fosse. The entrance is between two large - 
towers. The chief apartments appear to have been over the 
gateway. 

In fine weather the Castle commands an extensive view, 
embracing the lofty summit of Snowdon, the Promontory of' 
Llyn, Criccieth Castle, and the Bay of Cardigan. 

Harlech Castle is said to have been founded by Maelgwyn '- 
Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, about the year 350 ; and it 
is generally believed that Edward I. erected the present 
building on the ruins of the former one. It was completed ' 
previous to 1283. In 1404, Owen Glyndwr seized it during 
his rebellion against Henry IV. ; but it was retaken four years 
afterwards, and afforded an asylum to Margaret of Anjou, 
after the defeat of her husband, Henry VI., at Northampton, in 
1460. In 1468, it surrendered, after a short siege, to an army 
under the command of William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke. 
During the Civil Wars this fortress was defended by Sir 
Hugh Pennant, till he was deserted by his men ; and it then 
fell into the hands of the Parliament. It was recaptured by 
the royal forces, and finally taken, in March 1647, by General 
Mytton, being the last castle in W T ales which held out for the 
King. 

Harlech has a small market on Saturday. Inn, the Blue 
Lion, where post-chaises may be procured. 

Near Harlech is a curious antique monument, called Coeton 
Arthur, consisting of a large flat stone, lying horizontally, sup- 
ported by three others. The supporters are about twenty 
inches square, two of them are eight feet high, and the incum- 
bent- stone, inclining to an oval, is. eleven feet in length. 



HAVERFORDWEST. 155 

! 

|j In the winter of 1694, this neighbourhood was much 
l alarmed by a fiery exhalation, or mephitic vapour, which arose 
| from a sandy marshy tract of land, called Morfa Bychan, (the 
J little marsh,) across the channel, eight miles from Harlech, 
I and injured much of the country, by poisoning the grass in 
jj such a manner as to kill the cattle, and firing hay and corn- 
|j ricks for near a mile from the coast. It is represented to have 
i! had the appearance of a weak blue flame. All the damage 
1 was done invariably in the night ; and in the course of the 
ij winter not less than sixteen hay-ricks, and two barns, one filled 
J with corn and the other with hay, were burnt by it. It did 
not appear to affect any thing else, and men could go into it 
■ without receiving any injury. It was observed at different 
; times during eight months. An account of this singular phe- 
nomenon may be found in No. 208 of the " Philosophical 
Transactions." 

In the vicinity of Harlech are several monumental remains, 
supposed to be of Druidical origin, and the scenes of Bardic 
meetings. 

From Harlech the pedestrian tourist may make an excur- 
sion to Cwm Bycan, or the Little Hollow, which is four miles 
distant. This is a narrow grassy dell, about a mile long, and 
encompassed by black and dreary scenery. 

HAVERFORDWEST, 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles, 

Carmarthen, by St. Clare. 32f Narberth 10| 

Cardigan 26 Pembroke 10 

Fishguard 14 St. David's 15£ 

London ..249 Tenby, by Narberth 20J 

Milford 7i 

Haverfordwest, called in Welsh Hwlffordd, is one of the 
largest towns hi South Wales. It is very irregularly built on the 
declivity of a hill, descending to the banks of the West Cled- 
dau. The streets are generally narrow and crooked, and some 
of them so steep that they cannot be traversed on horseback or 



156 HAVERFORDWEST. 

in carriages without danger. The ground floors in many- 
places overlook the roofs of the neighbouring houses. The 
best views of the town are from the Narberth and Fishguard : 
roads. 

The town was formerly foilified by a strong wall, or ram- 
part, defended by towers, which are supposed to have been 
destroyed in the Civil Wars. 

Upon a rocky eminence overhanging the river was a strong ; 
Castle, built by Gilbert, Earl of Clare, in the reign of Stephen: '>, 
The Keep, which is the only portion remaining, has been con- k 
verted into the County Gaol. On the south side of it is a ; 
remarkable echo. ; 

The Parade, or Public Walk, upon the hill above the river, x 
commands a pleasing view. At its extremity are the ruins of : 
a Priory of Black Canons, erected before the year 1200, and Is 
dedicated to St. Mary and St. Thomas. It was endowed, if \ 
not founded, by Robert de Hwlfforrd, lord of this town, who i 
bestowed on it several churches and tithes, afterwards con-. r ., 
firmed by Edward III. 

The chief public building is the Town or Guild Hall, a d 
modern erection, 'situated in the upper part of the town. j« 
There are three Churches, the principal of which is St. Mary's, < • 
behind the Town Hall, but it presents nothing remarkable. 
The others are St. Martin's, which appears to have been an 
appendage to the Castle ; and St. Thomas's, on the summit of 
the hill on which the chief part of the town is built. 

There are also several Meeting-Houses, a Free School, 
an Alms Flouse and School supported by the donation of Mrs. 
Howard, in 1684, and a Custom House. Vessels of small 
burden can come up the river to the Quay. 

On the north side of the river is the suburb of Prendergast, - 
containing the remains of a mansion formerly occupied by a 
family of that name. Maurice de Prendergast, who accom- 
panied Earl S:rongbow to Ireland, was the last who held the 
property. 

The population of Haverfordwest amounts to upwards of 
4000. The Market is held on Tuesday and Saturday : it is 



HAVERFORDWEST. 157 

one of the largest and most abundant in Wales, particularly 
for fish. Living is said to be cheaper here than at any other 
I, place in the Principality- 
Inns. The Castle and the Mariners. 

PICTON CASTLE, 

Formerly the seat of Lord Milford, is situated about five miles 
from Haverfordwest, on the right of the road towards Narberth. 
It is one of the most ancient residences in the kingdom, having 
been built by William de Picton, a Norman knight, in the 
reign of William Rufus. During the Civil Wars, Sir Richard 
Phillips made a long and vigorous defence in it for King 
'Charles. It is one of the few castles which escaped the dila- 
pidations of Cromwell, and is remarkable for having been 
ijalways inhabited; yet the alterations and additions made by 
i successive occupiers have not destroyed its embattled cha- 
<|racter, and it retained till within a few years its original form. 

The building is an oblong, with three large bastions pro- 
jecting on each side. At the east end, between two smaller 
bastions, was the grand portcullised entrance, now converted 
into a modern doorway. The moat and drawbridge have been 
superseded by a stone terrace, with a parapet. About 1800, 
Lord Milford added two large rooms to the west end, the 
exterior of which has but little harmony with the other parts 
5 of the structure. 

The gardens, hot-houses, &c, are extensive, and the park is 
richly wooded. A beautiful walk which passes near an old 
encampment, called Castle Lake, leads to Slebech, remarkable 
as having been an ancient commandery of the Knights of St. 
John of Jerusalem. No trace, however, of the building is 
visible, except the Church, which contains two alabaster 
figures, supposed to be of some members of the Barlow 
family. 



158 HAWARDEN. 

HAWARDEN, 

IN FLINTSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Caergwrle 6J Holywell 11$ 

Chester 7 Mold 6 

Flint • 8 Northop 5 

Hawarden, pronounced Harden, is a thriving- market-town, 
with upwards of 5000 inhabitants, situated on a small river 
which runs into the Chester Channel. It has a handsome 
Church and an Iron Foundry. At the east end of the town 
formerly stood the Castle, which was built soon after the 
Norman invasion. Henry VI. granted it to Sir Thomas 
Stanley, in whose family it continued till the Civil Wars. 
After the death of James Stanley, Earl of Derby, at the battle 
of Worcester, in 1651, it was purchased by Serjeant Glynne, 
with whose descendants it still remains. Only a small portion ' 
of the original edifice now exists ; but from the eminence on 
which it stands a fine view is obtained of the Dee and the 
county of Chester, on the opposite shore. 

Trie Castle is a handsome modern mansion belonging to 
the Glynne family. It was erected in 1752, by Sir John 
Glynne, and remodelled in 1809, in the Gothic style of the 
thirteenth century. The remains of the original castle are 
situated in the park. 

Many of the inhabitants of Hawarden are employed in the 
manufacture of earthenware. The Market is held on Saturday. - 

Inn. The Glynne Arms. 

v EULOE CASTLE, 

About two miles from Hawarden, is situated on the edge of-' 
a glen surrounded by a wood, on the side of the road to 
Northop. From the ruins still existing, it appears to have 
consisted of two parts, the larger of which was an oblong 
tower, rounded at one end, about forty-two feet long and 
thirty broad. The other part is an oblong court, with the 
remains of a circular tower overgrown with ivy. 



HAY. 159 

In the adjacent wood, called Coed Euloe, Henry II. was 
severely repulsed by David and Conan, the sons of Owen 
Gwynedd. By stratagem they drew the English army into a 
narrow and deep defile between the hills, and, attacking it in 
front and rear, routed it with the most dreadful slaughter. 

HAY, 

IN BRECKNOCKSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Brecon 15£ Hereford 19 

Builth 15* Kington 12J 

Glasbury 4£ London 153 

Hay, in British Tre Gelli, and also called Haseley, is a 
small town, pleasantly situated on the river Wye, near its 
junction with the Dulas, which separates this place from Here- 
fordshire. It is said to derive its name from the Norman 
French haier, to enclose, and celli, a grove of saplings. It 
consists principally of one street, dividing into a fork near the 
middle, and the houses are arranged on the declivity of a hill. 
The population is about 1400. 

The Church is situated upon an eminence close to the river. 
It contains a very ancient chalice, on which are engraved these 
words, — " Our Ladie Paris of the Haia." In the church- 
yard is a mutilated effigy, supposed to be that of a monk. 
The view from this cemetery is rich and varied. 

Hay formerly possessed a superb Castle, but by whom 
erected is uncertain. It was destroyed in 1216, by King 
John; Llewelyn, who was in possession of it, having refused 
to render him his assistance against the French. This fortress 
occupied the highest land on the bank of the river, near the 
parish church, and was afterwards rebuilt near the centre of 
the town. A Gothic gateway is the only portion remaining. 
The site of the old castle is occupied by an ancient mansion. 

The Market-day is Thursday. Inn, the White Swan. 

CLIFFORD CASTLE, 

On the banks of the river Wye, between two and three miles 



160 HEREFORD. 

from Hay, is remarkable as the birth-place of Fair Rosamond, 
who was the daughter of Walter de Clifford. Here she was 
first seen by Henry IT. This fortress was erected by William 
Fitzosborn, the first Earl of Huntingdon. It is now com- 
pletely in ruins. 

" Clifford has fall'n, how e'er sublime, 
Mere fragments wrestle still with time ; 
Yet as they perish, sure and slow, 
And rolling dash the stream below, 
They raise tradition's glowing scene, 
The clue of silk, the wrathful queen, 
And link, in mem'ry's firmest bond, 
The love-lorn tale of Rosamond." 

At the village of Clifford is a small Inn. 



Is a small village two miles north of Hay. " On a head-stone 
in the churchyard/' says Dr. Malkin, " appears the very great 
age of 219 years." An adjacent hill, in what is called the; 
Forest of Clyro, commands a fine view. The point of pro- 
spect is marked by a single tree. 

HEREFORD, 

IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Abergavenny 24 London • • • 134 

Gloucester 301 Malvern, by Ledbury 23J 

Hay 19 Monmouth 18 

Kington 20£ Ross 14£ 

Ledbury 15£ Worcester, by Ledbury • • • • 31£ 

Leominster 13 

As this city is frequently visited by tourists, either in going , 
to or returning from Wales, a short notice of it is introduced. 
For a more detailed account of it the reader is referred to 
" Leigh's Road Book of England and Wales." 

Hereford is the capital of the county, and is situated on the 
Wye. The principal objects worthy of notice are the Cathe- 
dral, with its library ; the Court House, or Shire Hall ; the 



HOLT. — HOLYHEAD. 161 

I'jCastle Green Promenade, in the centre of which is a column in 
honour of Lord Nelson's victories ; and the house in Pipe 
^ane, where Nell Gwynne was born. Population 9000. — 
Ohm. The City Arms Hotel, the Green Dragon, the Black 
|S wan, the Mitre, the Greyhound. 

HOLT, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 
Chester 9 Wrexham 5J 

This was formerly a market-town of some importance, but 
jis now an obscure village. Tt is situated on the Dee, which 
|here separates England from Wales. Over the river is a Bridge 
lof ten arches, erected in 1345, and connecting Holt with the 
ij village of Farnham or Farndon. 

I Holt formerly possessed a Castle, which stood on a solid 
)jrock close to the river. This fortress was garrisoned by the 
'iRoyalists in 1643, but besieged by the Parliament, forces in 
,1645, and shortly afterwards demolished. 

HOLYHEAD, 

IN ANGLESEA. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Amlwch 20 London, by Shrewsbury. • • • 261 

Bangor 24 London, by Chester 279 

Dublin, about 60 Menai Bridge, by New Road 21J 

Gwindu 12* Mona Inn 12 

Holyhead is called in Welsh Caer Cyhi, that is, the Fort 
of Cybi, who, according to Mr. Pennant, was a son of Solomon, 
Duke of Cornwall, and a pupil of Hilarius, Bishop of Poitiers 
about the year 380. In honour of his preceptor he named one 
of the neighbouring promontories St. Hilary's, now St. Elian's 
j Point. Mr. Owen supposes Cybi to have been a son of Selyv 
jab Geraint ab Erbin, and to have nourished in the sixth 
I century. 



162 HOLYHEAD. 

This place has risen, during the last half century, from a 
poor fishing village into a decent-looking town, in consequence 
of its being the most commodious place of embarkation for 
Dublin, and the station for the government steam-packets to 
that city. These vessels are admirably fitted up : they sail 
every morning, and generally perform the passage in six or 
eight hours. 

The Church is situated near the centre of the town, on a 
rock overhanging the sea, and occupies the site of a Monastery, 
which was founded by St. Cybi, and converted into a College 
by Maelgwn Gwnedd or Hwfa ap Cynddelw, his cotemporary. 
in 580. This college was afterwards transferred to Jesus Col- 
lege, Oxford, which still appoints the minister to the church 
The pulpit is of great antiquity, having been put up in the 
twelfth century. The churchyard appears to be very ancient I 
three of the sides are bounded by walls six feet thick and 
seventeen feet high, which are supposed by some to be of Roman 
origin, whilst others ascribe them to a chieftain of Anglesea in 
the fifth century. The fourth side is open to the cliffs. 

The Pier, erected on Ynys-halen, an island on the north- 
east side of the harbour, is a noble work, affording protectior 
to the vessels engaged in the trade of the channel, and enabling 
them to ride at anchor in four fathoms water: it was com- 
menced in 1809. At the' extremity is a Light-House, and ir 
the centre a Grecian Triumphal Arch, of dark Anglesea marble, 
erected on the spot where George IV. landed in August, 1821 ; 
when the royal squadron remained windbound in the bay. Or 
the frieze is the following inscription, with its counterpart in 
Welsh on the opposite side : ■ — 

GEO. IV. REX 

MONAM INVISENS, HUC APPULIT 

AUG. VIk A.D. 1821. 

Immense quantities of corn are annually exported from this 
harbour. 

The Promontory called the Head, which likewise protect' 
the harbour, is an immense precipice of rock hollowed intc 



HOLYHEAD. 163 

jcaverns. One of these, supported by huge natural pillars, is 
Wiled the Parliament House, but, like the others, is only 
! (accessible in a boat at certain times of the tide. 

Upon the South Stack, an islet about twenty yards west of 
rjthe Head, is a Light-House in the form of a tower, erected in 
Pjl809. The light is placed 200 feet above the sea, the summit 
'level of the island being 140 feet, and is visible over the whole 
i jof Caernarvon Bay. Besides the tower there are two dwellings 
pjfor the residence of the light-keepers, and another, on a small 
Fjscale, for the use of Captain Evans, under whose direction the 
^Light-House was erected. 

The South Stack is connected with the adjacent mountains 
riby a modern Suspension Bridge of elegant form. The Rope 
; JBridge, which it has superseded, was a curious structure, in 
I jthe form of an inverted arch. A few rotten planks were placed 
[on the wattled cordage, as a footway for the passenger, and the 
jlbridge was rendered tolerably steady by ropes which stretched 
; 'across the chasm in various directions, and were fixed into the 
jrocks by iron rings. Originally there was only a single rope 
'across the chasm, and the passenger was conveyed along it in 
la basket, by means of pullies. 

These lofty cliffs afford shelter to innumerable birds, such 
as pigeons, gulls, razor-bills, ravens, cormorants, herons, puf- 
fins, and other sea-birds. On the highest crags may be found 
j the peregrine falcon, the eggs of which are considered a great 
delicacy. 

Upon the top of the mountain called Pen Caer Cybi is 
Caer Twr, a circular stone building without mortar, ten feet in 
circumference, supposed to be the remains of an ancient Pharos 
or watch-tower. 

Holyhead has an Assembly Room and Baths. The Market- 
|day is Saturday. The population is upwards of 4000. 

Inns. The Eagle and Child, and the Hibernian Hotel. 



164 HOLYWELL. 



THE SKERRIES 

Are a collection of islet rocks, situated about eight miles : 
north of Holyhead, and two miles and a half from the west[ 
shore of Anglesea. They are inhabited by a few poor sheep, a 
numerous colony of rabbits, and the families who take care of. 
the Light-House, which is built on the largest of them. The 
rocks abound with sea-fowl. The principal island is called by 
the Welsh Ynys y Moel Rhoniaid, or the Isle of Seals, this, 
animal being frequently seen here. 

Boats to visit the Skerries may be hired at Holyhead, at a ; 
very cheap rate : a sailing-boat, with two or three men for the; 
day, will not be more than eight or ten shillings. 



HOLYWELL, 

IN FLINTSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caerwys 5 Northop 6J 

Flint 5£ Rhuddlan 11 

London • 208 St. Asaph 10 

Mold 91 

Is a flourishing town on the high road from Chester to 
Holyhead, and carries on a considerable trade, having several 
manufactories and lead-mines in its vicinity. It is pleasantly' 
situated on the slope of a mountain, which extends nearly ta- 
ttle estuary of the Dee, about a mile and a half distant. It 
consists of a wide street, in which the markets are held, and a ; 
cross street at the further end, leading to St. Asaph on the left, 
and Greenfield to the right. In this street is the Church, dedi- 
cated to St. Winifred. It was erected in 1769, but the columns 
which separate the nave from the aisles are remains of a former 
building. 

St. Winifred 's Well, from which this place derives its name, : 
springs with great impetuosity from a rock at the foot of a steep 
hill at the bottom of the town, near the Church. The quantity 



HOLYWELL. 165 

f water thrown up is calculated to exceed eighty-four hogsheads 
n a minute, and is sufficient to give motion to about a dozen 
ills, forges, &c, in its passage to the sea, a distance of little 
ore than a mile. 
The basin in which the spring rises is an oblong square, 
ijtwelve feet by seven, and four feet in depth, surrounded by a 
ktone wall, and covered by a Gothic stone canopy, said to have 
P'peen erected by Margaret, the mother of Henry VII. The 
jroof was exquisitely carved, with representations of events in 
the legend of St. Winifred ; but upon these Time has laid his 
(unsparing hand. ' In a niche opposite the entrance once stood 
a statue of the Virgin. The Chapel over it is of the same date, 
and is private property ; but the Well is, in consequence of a 
chancery decree, open to the public. Small cabins are built 
ror the convenience of persons wishing to bathe, and attend- 
ants are always at h?.nd, with bathing dresses and drinking 
glasses, for those whose curiosity may induce them to taste the 
iwater. 

The legendary story connected with this well is too curious 

(to be omitted. Winifred, who is said to have lived in the 

seventh century, was the daughter of a nobleman named The- 

with, and niece to St. Beuno, who, having obtained from her 

father leave to found a church upon his possessions here, took 

her under his protection, in order to instruct her in the Chris- 

llian religion. Caradoc, the son of king Alen, admired the 

lijlpeauty of her person, and resolved to make an attempt on her 

jjprtue. It is said that he made known to her his passion on a 

j r punday morning, after her parents were gone to church. She 

i made an excuse to escape from the room, and immediately ran 

i)f.owards the church. He overtook her on the descent of the 

pill, and, enraged at his disappointment, drew his sword and 

tptruck off her head. The head rolled down the hill to the 

Ultar, at which the congregation were kneeling, and, stopping 

\ there, a clear and rapid fountain immediately gushed up. St. 

i,Peuno snatched up the head, and, joining it to the body, it 

^|was immediately re-united, the place of separation being only 

jparked by a white line encircling her neck ! Caradoc, it is' 



166 HOLYWELL. 

said, dropped down upon the spot where he had committed 
this atrocious act. The sides of the well were henceforth 
covered with a sweet-scented moss, and the stones at the bot- 
tom became tinctured with her blood. 

Winifred survived her decapitation about fifteen years, and,, 
towards the latter end of that time, having received the veil 
from St. Elerius, at Gwytherin, in Denbighshire, died abbess of 
that monastery, and was buried there, where four upright stoneg 
are still shewn as Winifred's Tomb. Her uncle Beuno had 
promised her two immortal privileges ; namely, that the blood 
should never be washed out of the stones, and that her meril 
should be prevalent all over the world. t 

The well, after the decease of the saint, is said to have 
become endowed with many miraculous properties ; and hei 
devotees were for a long time very numerous, but of late yean 
they have fallen off. 

The legend is generally supposed to have been invented b) 
the monks of Basingwerk Abbey, in the fourteenth century. 

This water has never been known to freeze, and scarcely 
ever varies in quantity, either in droughts or after the greates- 
rains, — a circumstance which the manufacturers in the vicinitj 
deem far more important than its miraculous powers. 

Holywell has also Chapels for the Roman Catholics, anc 
Meeting-Houses. The population is about 9000. The Marke 
is held on Friday. 

The chief Inns are, the Red Lion, the White Horse, the 
King's Arms. 

BASINGWERK ABBEY, 

Or Maes-Glas, frequently called Greenfield Monastery, i 
situated in a meadow between two hills, about a mile east o 
Holywell. It is supposed to have been founded about 1131 
by Ranulph, Earl of Chester, and to have been made an abbe; 
of Cistercian monks by Henry II., in 1159. The ruins ar< 
insignificant, but the situation is delightful, commanding a fini 
view of the river Dee, Chester, Parkgate, and the hills of Lan 
cashire. 



HOLYWELL. 167 

^ At a short distance is an ancient oak, called the Abbot's 
5 lOak, measuring upwards of fifteen feet in circumference. 

DOWNING, 

'About three miles north-west of Holywell, is remarkable as 
^having been the residence of Thomas Pennant, Esq., to whom 

the world is indebted for many publications on the natural 
'history and topography of Great Britain. Below the house are 

the ruins of Malandina Abbey. 

MYNYDD GARREG, 

Or the Rock, about a mile and a half north-west of Downing, 
is a lofty hill, surmounted by a Pharos erected by the Romans. 
'This building is of circular form, and still affords a useful land- 
'mark to vessels on the neighbouring coast. 

MOSTYN HALL, 

The seat of the Mostyn family, is situated about two miles 
•north-east of Mynydd Garreg, and five from Holywell, at a 
3 jshort distance from the sea. The original structure is sup- 
posed to have been built in the reign of Henry VI., but an 

lelegant modern mansion was erected during the last half 
'century. 

LLANASSA, OR LLANASAPH, 

jls a village six miles and a half north-west of Holywell, and 
about a mile and a half to the right of the road towards 
Rhuddlan. The Church contains some painted glass formerly 
at Basingwerk Abbey : the centre represents the Crucifixion, 
jwith Mary and John at the foot of the Cross : on one side are 
'figures of St. Lawrence and St. James, and on the other St. 
•[Anne and St. Augustine, or St. Thomas a Becket. 



168 KIDWELLY. 

KIDWELLY, 

IN CAERMARTHENSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Caermarthen 10^ Llanstephan 6 

Llanelly 9 

Is a neatly-built town, seated in a narrow and well-wooded : 
valley, at a short distance from Caermarthen Bay. It consists 
of two parts, the Old and the New Town, connected together 
by a bridge over the Gwendraeth. The Old Town, situated 
between the two rivers Gwendraeth Vawr and Vychan, is of 
great antiquity, and was formerly surrounded by strong walls 
and three gates, now much dilapidated. 

The Parish Church stands in New Kidwelly, surmounted 
by a spire 165 feet in height. Over the entrance is a figure of 
the Virgin Mary, and in the interior is a sepulchral effigy of a 
priest, with an illegible inscription. Near the Church formerly 
stood a Priory of Black Monks. 

The Castle, which is the principal object of interest, stands 
on a bold rocky eminence on the west side of the river, and is 
in very good preservation. Its form is nearly square, with a 
strong round tower at each of its angles, and the walls forming 
the enclosures are also defended by towers of smaller dimen- 
sions. Several of the apartments, with their arched roofs, are 
entire, and some of the staircases are in good condition. The 
principal entrance was on the west side, by a grand gateway " 
between two lofty towers, which still remain. There are fine 
views from the battlements. 

This fortress is said to have been built soon after the Con-' 
quest of Glamorganshire by Maurice de Londres, one of the 
twelve Norman knights who invaded this country. To thi: 
place King John retired when at war with his barons. 

Kidwelly contains some iron and tin manufactories, anc 
carries on a considerable trade in coals, with which the neigh- 
bourhood abounds. The Market-days are Tuesdays anc' 
Fridays. 

Inn. The Pelican, 



'■ 



K.ILGERPwAN. 169 

KILGERRAN, 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Cardigan 3 Newport 8 

Newcastle in Emlyn.. 8 



Kilgerran, Kilgarron, or Cilgeraint, is situated upon the 

ver Teivy, at the foot of a steep hill. It consists of one irre- 

lar and ill-built street, extending about half a mile from the 

Iphurch, which, it is said, formerly stood in the centre of the 

town, but is now at its extremity. 

The Castle stands on the summit of a naked rock rising 
from the bed of the river, which winds beautifully between the 
-feteep banks, thickly fringed with wood and interspersed with 
-jrocks. The chief remains consist of two ponderous circular 
jtowers, situated on the isthmus which connects the projecting 
-irock with the main land. There are also fragments of massive 
| bastions, and a curtain-wall. The inner ward contained the 
fceep and state apartments. 

The period when this castle was erected is uncertain, and 
I .he styles of various ages appear throughout the building. The 
' prevalence of the circular arch would seem to indicate a Nor- 
jjnan origin. It has been generally supposed that Gilbert 
; Strongbow erected a fortress here in 1109, which was taken 
|jjf Rhys, Prince of South Wales, in 1164, and razed to the 
! jround. The present edifice is said to have been commenced 
,py William Marshal, Earl of Pembroke, in the thirteenth 
pentury. 

I In order to view the banks of the river between Kilgerran 
, jtnd Cardigan, the tourist should hire a boat. By following the 
|. urnpike-road he would entirely lose the beauties of this .spot. 
J* This beautiful scenery," says Sir R. C. Hoare, "stands un- 
equalled in South Wales, and can only be rivalled by that of 
ponwy in North Wales; but it must be visited by water, not 
py land. Having skirted the sides of a long and extensive 



170 KINGTON. 

marsh, a sudden bend of the river, contracting its channel, 
conducts us into a narrow pass, surrounded by a perpendicular 
rampart of wood and rock, with steep and precipitate banks of 
oak and copse-wood, feathering down to the water's edge. The 
first view we catch of the castle, at a distance, between a per- 
spective range of well-wooded hills, is very striking; and what, 
on a nearer approach, it may lose in picturesque beauty, * 
certainly gains in grandeur. The proud walls of a large cast 
appear towering full in front; the hill on which they stand u 
rather destitute of wood, but boldly broken with projecting 
rocks ; and perhaps the general effect of the landscape may n< 
lose by this contrast to the rich surrounding scenery of woe 
I have never seen ruins more happily combined with rod 
wood, and water, a more pleasing composition, or a more cap- 
tivating landscape, which is animated by the numerous coracle*, 
employed in catching salmon." ; 

In a romantic hollow, a mile or two higher than the Castle 
near the village of Kenarth, the Teivy falls over a ledge of rocl 
in one bold sheet, though not more than six feet m depth 
forming a salmon-leap. 

Near this fall is a Manufactory of iron and tin plates. 



KINGTON, 

IN HEREFORDSHIRE, 
Distantfrom MUes. Distantfrom Jfito 



12£ Penybont 15 * 

Refold 2°* Presteign g 

« eretorQ u New Radnor & 



Hay 



Leominster 
London 



154 



Is a small market-town on the Arrow, and on the Kingto 
Canal. It presents nothing worthy of notice.-Inns. The Ox 
ford Arms, the King's Head. 



KNIGHTON. — LAMPETER. 171 

KNIGHTON, 

IN RADNORSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bishop's Castle 12£ Presteign 7 

London 159 Radnor, New ... n^ 

Ludlow 16£ 

Or Tref-y-Clawdd, that is, the town upon the Dyke, is 

situated on the Teme, on the north-east border of the county. 

Offa's Dyke, from which it derives its Welsh name, passes 

above the town. This rampart was constructed as a line of 

3 j separation between the Britons and Saxons ; and Harold made 

i a law, that if any Welshman passed this boundary he should 

i lose his right hand. On a hill near Knighton is still shewn 

j the Camp of Caractacus ; and an encampment on another hill, 

"separated from the first by a deep valley, is said to be that of 

\\ the Roman general Ostorius. 

f Knighton has a Church, erected in 1752, and a Free 
m School. The Market is held on Thursday. The population is 
i; upwards of 1000.— Inn. The Duke's Arms. 

LAMPETER, 

IN CARDIGANSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

y Aberaeron 15 Llandilo Vawr 17 

Aberystwith 27i Llandovery 1 6 

Aberystwith, by Aberaeron 29 London 203 

! || Caermarthen 23£ Newcastle in Emlyn 20 

Cardigan, by Newcastle • • • 30 Tregaron 10 



I Lampeter, Or Llanbedr, formerly called Llanbedd, and 
(afterwards Llanbedr pont Stephan, is a straggling town, si- 
! tuated on the banks of the Teivy, and containing about 1000 
.inhabitants. 

The Church, dedicated to St. Peter, is situated on rising 
(ground. It contains some monuments of the Millfield family, 
; and an ancient font, sculptured with grotesque figures. 



172 LEDBURY. 

About half a mile from the town is a Bridge over the 
Teivy, said by some to have been built by King Stephen, and 
by others, to have been erected by a man named Stephan, al 
his own expense. 

St. David's College, at this place, was founded by Dr. Bur- 
gess, when Bishop of St. David's, for the instruction of Welst 
clergymen, the poverty of whose preferment precludes their 
from the advantages of an university education. It was ori-'; 
ginally established in 1804, at Llanddewi Brefi, six miles [ 
distant ; but this situation having been found inconvenient, i 
was removed to its present site in 1822. The King, the Lord: 1 
of the Manor of Lampeter, and the Universities, were libera : 
contributors to the undertaking. The present edifice wa 
opened in 1827, and is calculated to accommodate abou" 
seventy students. It was erected from designs by Mr. Cock 
erell. The annual expenses of each student, including board 
lodging, and tuition, does not exceed fifty guineas. TV 
College possesses a library of several thousand volumes, mos 
of which have been presented to it ; and an elegant Chapel. : 

Lampeter is much frequented by fishing parties, the rive 
affording excellent sport. Its salmon are famous. The markel 
day is Saturday. 

The Black Lion is a good Inn, where post-chaises may b 
procured. 

LEDBURY, 

IN HEREFORDSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Gloucester m Malvern 8 

Hereford 15* Ross 121 

London 118 Worcester 16 

Is an ancient market-town, situated about a mile from tf 
river Leddon. It consists principally of two streets, crossic' 
at right angles. In one of them is the Market House, whe: 
the market is held on Friday. 

The population is about 3800, and the chief Inns are tl 
George, the Feathers, trie New Inn. 



I 



,|m: 



LEOMINSTER. LLANBADARN VAWR. 173 

Eastnor Castle, the residence of Lord Somers, is about a 
He and a half from Ledbury. It commands fine views. 

LEOMINSTER, 

IN HEREFORDSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bromyard 12 London 137 

Hereford 13 Ludlow 10| 

Kington 14 Presteign 14 

Is situated in the fertile vale of the Lugg. The principal 
jbbjects worthy of notice are, the Church, with an altar-piece 
; ifrom Rubens; the Town Hall, or Butter Cross; a singular 
Lfigure, holding a hatchet over the door of an Alms House ; and 
tithe grotesque carvings on many of the houses. 
[J Population, 4800. — Inns. The Crown, the King's Arms, the 
rjTalbot, the Unicorn, the Red Lion. 

Li For a more minute account of Leominster, see " Leigh's 
JJRoad Book of England." 

3 LLANBADARN VAWR, 

i 

IN CARDIGANSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles, 

Aberystwith 1£ 

Llanbadern Vawr, or the Great Church of Badarn, or 
j Padarn, is situated in a valley, to the south-east of Aberyst- 
Ikvith. It was formerly called Mauritanea, but derived its 
j present name from St. Paternus, or Padarn, who, in the sixth 
iipentury, founded a monastery here, and an episcopal see, which 
' |was afterwards united with St. David's. 

In 1111, the church was given to St. Peter's at Gloucester, 
Und was afterwards appropriated to the Abbey of Vale Royal, 
pin Cheshire. 

The present edifice was probably erected soon after the 
j|anding of William I., as the plain pointed arch is visible 
; jthroughout : this, indeed, forms the only ornament on the 



174 LLANBERIS. 

font, which is an octagonal shaft, resting on three steps, and 
supporting a basin of similar form. The chancel and transept 
are separated from the other parts of the church by carved 
screens, probably erected in the time of Henry VII. 

A flat stone in the chancel covers the grave of Lewis 
Morris, the antiquary, and author of" Celtic Remains," Om 
the south side of the church are two ancient stone crosses. t 

Service is performed here on Sunday morning in Welsh 
and English, and in the afternoon in Welsh. 

LLANBERIS, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles* • 

Beddgelart • 12 Capel Curig 7 

Caernarvon 9 Dolbadern Castle 2 

Llanberis, that is, the Church of St. Peris, or Nant Peris 
the Vale of St. Pens, as it is usually called, is a small village 7 
surrounded by lofty mountains, the summits of which an 
seldom visible to the inhabitants below. With the exceptior 
of the houses occupied by the agents of the copper mine anc 
slate quarries in the vicinity, it consists of mean-looking cot 
tages, built of stone, but without any plaster within. 

At this village reside several persons who act as guides t< 
Snowdon, Glyder, and other places in the environs. There i 
a small Inn near the churchyard ; but the traveller will find \ 
better one at Dolbadern, lower down the valley. 

The Church presents nothing remarkable. St. Peris, t« 
whom it is dedicated, was a monk, who lived here in seclusio; 
during the thirteenth century. The view from the churchyart 
is most romantic. 

St. Peris's Well, famed for the cure of diseases, is stil 
shewn here. It is a square shallow well, approached on eac' 
side by slate steps, and having two small excavations in th* 
rock, for the accommodation of several trout, which are quit 
familiar, and come out to be fed by anybody. 

The Vale of Llanberis is extremely picturesque. It wa 



I 



LLANBERIS. 175 

r! formerly covered with extensive woods of oak, but these have 
.ilong been cut down, and the general character of the valley is 
jlthat of a desolated waste, through which an alpine torrent 
;foams and roars over huge masses of rock. At every step of 
slhis progress the tourist cannot but feel increasingly interested 
;with the impressive grandeur of the scenery. 

The valley is straight, and nearly of equal breadth through- 
| out its whole extent. On the north side, it is bounded by the 
I Glyder and Llider mountains ; and on the south, by the base 
| of Snowdon. Towards the western extremity are two lakes or 
pools. The upper, or eastern one, is about a mile in length 
,and half a mile in breadth : it formerly contained char. The 
i other is longer, and has more the appearance of a river. 
These two lakes are connected together by the river Seiont, 
which passes through a small neck of land situated between 
them. See Dolbadern Castle. 

About half a mile from the village, on the edge of the 
| upper lake, is a Copper Mine, consisting of several horizontal 
|j galleries, driven into Snowdon. A wooden aqueduct is car- 
jj ried across the Vale, in order to supply the copper works with 
,1a stream to turn its water-wheel; and this has a very pic- 
Jturesque effect. 

There are also several slate quarries on each side of the 
valley. Some of them are situated at a great height, amongst 
the rocks, from which the slates are brought down on slanting 
} rail-roads. 

Near the extremity of the lower lake, formerly resided that 
singular character Margaret uch Evan, who died in 1801, at 
the age of 105. Mr. Pennant gave the following account of 
her : — " This extraordinary female was the greatest hunter, 
shooter, and fisher of her time ; she kept a dozen at least of 
dogs, terriers, greyhounds, and spaniels, all excellent in their 
kinds. She killed more foxes in one year than all the con- 
federate hunts do in ten ; rowed stoutly, and was queen of the 
lake ; fiddled excellently, and knew all the old British music ; 
did not neglect the mechanic arts, for she was a good joiner : 
J and, at the age of 70, was the best wrestler in the country, and 



176 LLANBEKIS. 

few young men dared to try a fall with her. She had a maid 
of congenial qualities; but death, that mighty hunter, at last 
earthed this faithful companion. Margaret was also black- 
smith, shoe-maker, boat builder, and maker of harps. She 
shod her own horses, made her own shoes, and built her own 
boats, while she was under contract to convey the copper ore ; 
down the lakes. All the neighbouring bards paid their ad- 
dresses to Margaret, and celebrated her exploits in pure 
British verse. At length she gave her hand to the most effe- 
minate of her admirers, as if predetermined to maintain the 
superiority which nature had bestowed on her." 

The late Mr. Hutton, of Birmingham, thus metrically de- 
scribed Margaret, and the simple manners of the natives in this 
retired vale : — 

*« 'Mong the rocks of Llanberis, where foot comes not nigh, 
No eye sees their summit, except a bird's eye, 
Nor aught in the prospect appears to the sight, 
But water and mountain, yet they give delight ; 
Quite silent for miles through these regions you go, 
Except when the surly wind chooses to blow; 
But few are their neighbours, and fewer their quarrels, 
And fewest of all are good liquors and barrels ; 
In stockings and shoes are no mighty sums spent, 
In building, or gaming, or eating, or rent ; 
Instead of regaling in luxury there, 
We see life sustained with the most simple fare ; 
Their health and their harmony are not disjointed, 
For, as they expect not, they're not disappointed. 
Robust are the females, hard labour attends them, 
With the fist they could knock down the man who offends them. 
Here lived Peggy Evans, who saw ninety-two, 
Could wrestle, row, fiddle, and hunt a fox too ; 
Could ring a sweet peal, as the neighbourhood tells, 
That would charm your two ears — had there been any bells ; 
Enjoy 'd rosy health in a lodging of straw, 
Commanded the saw-pit, and wielded the saw; — 
And though she's deposited where you can't find her, 
I know she has left a few sisters behind her." 

The Vale of Llanberis may be most conveniently visitec 
from Caernarvon, an excellent carriage - road having beei' 
finished from that town as far as the village of Dolbadern, ii 
1828. The mountain Pass of Llanberis, beyond Dolbadern 



LLANDAFF. 177 

| leading to Capel Curig, is only practicable for ponies and 

pedestrians. It is one of the finest scenes in Wales, and bears 

, | the name of Cwm Glas, or the Blue Vale. It extends three or 

•ifour miles in length, and is, in some places, not more than 160 

( j feet in breadth. The rocks on each side are of an immense 

! height, rising in some parts nearly perpendicular, and in 

J others overhanging their bases. About three miles from Llan- 

! beris is a large fragment of rock, under which is a cavity, 

D where a poor woman resided for many years, during the 

i summer season, to tend her sheep and milk her cows. It is 

i called Ynys Hettws, or Hetty's Island. The highest part of 

this romantic pass is named Gorphwysfa, or the Resting 

| Place. 

LLANDAFF, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caerdiff 2£ Llantrissent 8* 

Caerphilly • • • 6 Pont y Pridd 9^ 

Cowbridge - 10 

Although this place ranks as a city, it is now reduced to a 
village, consisting of mean cottages and a few gentlemen's 
seats, and dependent on CaerdifT for its supplies. It is situ- 
ated, as its name denotes, on the river Taaf. 

The only object worthy of notice is the Cathedral. A 
church is said to have existed here from the first introduction 
of Christianity into Britain, a.d. 186, but it was not made a 
see till the fifth century. The edifice, of which portions still 
remain, was erected by Bishop Urban, in the year 1107. It 
j measured, according to Grose, 263 feet in length, 65 in 
j breadth, and 119 in height. It has no cross aisle, nor any 
j tower rising from the centre. 

The western front is a fine relic of Norman and Gothic 

(architecture, ornamented with a lancet window. Immediately 

lover the principal entrance, and underneath the arch, is a 

,j figure, said to be that of Dubricius, the first Bishop. Above 

i 2 



178 LLANDAFF. 

the window is a statue of Henry I., and the whole is sur- 
mounted by an antique cross. Two magnificent towers for- 
merly occupied the angles of this front, but of these only that 
on the north side remains. It was built by Jasper, Duke of 
Bedford, in 1485 ; and its pinnacles were much damaged by a 
storm in 1703. Two sides of this tower are raised on two 
light arches, springing from a single pillar. 

On entering the west door, the visitor sees the new struc- 
ture, which was raised within the walls of the old building in 
1751, and presents an instance of as total an absence of taste 
as can possibly be conceived. A Grecian temple is seen' 
obtruding within the walls of a Gothic cathedral. Beneath" 
the solemn Gothic towers has been engrafted an Italian - 
fantastic summer-house elevation, with a Venetian window 
and Ionic pilasters. The interior is equally disfigured : a- 
huge building, upon the model of a heathen temple, surrounds" 
the altar, and a colonnade of the Ionic order runs round the 
stalls ; while the elegant pointed arches of the original edifice 
separate the nave from the aisles. 

The Cathedral contains several ancient monuments, amongst 
which is a figure of an emaciated female, said to have died in 
love. Another, representing an armed knight, is in memory oi 
Christopher Matthews, who fell in the Civil Wars. 

At the east end of the Cathedral is a Chapel, dedicated 
to the Virgin Mary ; and on the south side is the Chapter 
House. 

In the vicinity are some slight remains of the Bishop's 
Palace; the destruction of which, with the principal portion oJ 
the churchy is attributed to Owen Glendwr. 

st. fagan's, 
About two miles from Llandaff, is a retired village, with e : 
Castle. It is noted for a sanguinary battle during the Pro- 
tectorate of Cromwell, in which the Royalists were defeated. 



LLANDEGAI. J 79 



LLANDEGAI, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 



from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aber 3£ Penrhyn Castle 1 

Bangor 2 Port Penrhyn 2 

Llandegai, that is, the Church of Tagai, is a village si- 
tuated on the little river Ogwen. The Church is a very pretty 
I Gothic building, with a square tower rising from the centre, 
and is supposed to have been erected in the time of Ed- 
ward III. It is said to have been originally founded in the 
sixth century by St. Tagai, the son of a French nobleman. 

This church contains the remains of Dr. Williams, Arch- 
bishop of York, who lived in the reign of Charles I. A mural 
monument represents him in an episcopal dress, kneeling at 
an altar. 

There is also an elegant marble monument, erected in 
pursuance of the will of Lady Penrhyn. It was executed by 
Mr. Westmacott. The upper part contains an inscription to 
the memory of Lord and Lady Penrhyn. It is supported on 
one side by a female peasant, deploring the loss of Lord and 
Lady Penrhyn, and on the other by a quarry man, with an 
iron bar and slate knife, earnestly regarding the inscription 
which commemorates his benefactors. Beneath, are four 
smaller subjects, representing a boy feeding his goats on the 
mountain, emblematical of the state of the country when 
Lord Penrhyn commenced his improvements ; two boys, 
working in a slate quarry, emblematical of industry; a boy 
teaching another, an emblem of religion ; and three boys with 
sickles in a wheat field, denoting plenty. Lord Penrhyn died 

j in 1808. 

I 

THE SLATE QUARRY, 



I Belonging to Mr. Pennant, and esteemed one of the great 
j curiosities of Caernarvonshire, is situated at Dolawen, about 
1 four miles from Llandegai Church and six from Bangor, at the 



180 LLAKDEGAI. 

entrance of the valley called Nant Frangon, and close to the 
road to Capel Curig. 

The summit of the slate mountain is termed Y Br on, a 
name usually given to any prominence which does not rise 
abruptly, and signifies breast or pap. The ascent to the apex 
in the last stage is steep and rugged ; but to gain the first swell 
of this arm of the mountain is no difficult task, and the 
prospect thence is charming and extensive. The distance to 
the highest point may be two miles from the quarry, though \ 
the perpendicular height cannot measure more than 600 or 
700 yards. 

The solid masses of slate dug from the summit to the base 
are from 80 to 100 feet, and when the sun shines they exhibit . 
the prismatic colours with great brilliancy. They are separated i 
by blasting the rock with gunpowder, or by the following i 
process, which appears one of considerable danger. A small 
beam is fastened to the top of the rock, having two ropes at , 
each end, upon which four, five, or six men frequently stand, 
and, with iron crows and sledge hammers, flake off the slate in 
masses, six or seven feet long, and from two to eight feet j 
broad. 

The various pieces of slate are shaped upon the spot, 
according to the purposes for which they are intended, such as 
grave-stones, chimney-pieces, covering for houses, &c. Some 
are polished and others are only half finished. They are theni 
put into small waggons, each of which holds about half a ton, 
and conveyed along a rail-road, six miles in length, to Port 
Penrhyn, where they are shipped, not only for all parts of the 
kingdom, but even for the United States of America. The: 
expense of the inclined planes and rail-roads, formed by the 
late Lord Penrhyn, to reduce the labour of bringing down the 
slates to the port, is said to have been upwards of 170,000/. \ 

Parties of pleasure visiting the quarry should take refresh- 
ments with them. 









LLANDILO VAWR. 181 

LLANDILO VAWR, 

IN CAERMARTHENSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles* 

Brecon, by Llandovery 34J London • 201 

Caermarthen 14| Neath 22 

Lampeter • 17 Pont ar Dulas 14 

Llandovery 14J Swansea 23 

Llangadock 7J 

Is a neatly built town, pleasantly situated on the side of a 
i steep hill, rising from the banks of the river Towey, over which 
is a Bridge, consisting of three light arches, erected by David 
)| Edwards. The Church is very ancient. It is situated in the 
sj middle of the town, and the churchyard is intersected by the 
high road. Llandilo is remarkable for a battle fought in 1281, 
between Edward I. and Llewelyn the Great, in which, by a 
manoeuvre of Mortimer, «the Welsh were defeated. The po- 
pulation exceeds 1000. The Market-day is Saturday. 
Inns. The Bear, the Castle. 

The environs of this place abound with pleasing scenery, 
and present many objects entitled to the tourist's notice. 



DYNEVOR, OR DINEVAWR CASTLE. 

The ruins of this celebrated fortress are situated in Newton 
Park, about a mile from Llandilo, on the road towards 
Caermarthen. This castle was built by Rhys ap Theodore, 
in the time of William I. Its original form was circular^ 
fortified with a double moat and rampart. The most pro- 
minent parts are, the apartment called the ladies' dressing- 
room, a massive round tower, the ancient keep, and a sub- 
terraneous passage. Giraldus saw a castle here ; but that was 
jdestroyed in 1194, about six years after he made his Itinerary : 
(it was, however, soon rebuilt, and became the royal seat of the 
[princes of South Wales ; but frequently changed its masters, 
juntil it fell to the crown of England. Henry VII. made a 
jgrant of it to Sir Rice ap Thomas, Knight of the Garter, a 



182 ILANDILO VAWR. 

lineal descendant of the Welsh princes, and ancestor to the 
present proprietor. Henry VIII., on a false charge of treason, 
seized this castle, but restored it to the family. It was in- 
habited till about 1760, when the combustible part of it was 
destroyed by fire. 

The view of the Vale of the Towey from these ruins is 
extensive and beautiful. Golden Grove, Grongar Hill, Mid- 
dleton Hall, and the ruins of Drusslyn Castle, form prominent 
objects in this splendid prospect. 

In the centre of the park, about a mile from the ruins, 
stands the House, a large quadrangular structure, which was ( 
modernised at the beginning of the present century. It is, 
surrounded by a profusion of wood, principally of the finest, 
oaks, interspersed with some large Spanish chestnuts, de- 
scending towards the Towey, and forming a scene of en-, 
chanting beauty; while the mountains, crossing the road at 
right angles, bound three separate vales of dissimilar character. 
In the park is a medicinal spring. 

CARREG CENNEN CASTLE. 

.The ruins of this fortress are situated about three miles from 
Llandilo, between the roads to Llangadock and Pont ar Dulas 
They occupy a craggy insulated rock, upwards of 400 feet ir 
height, three sides of which are quite inaccessible, and covei 
about an acre of ground. The well is remarkable for its sin- 
gular construction : instead of a perpendicular descent, hen 
is a winding cave bored through the solid rock, with ai 
arched passage on the northern edge of the precipice, running 
along the. outside of the fortress, with an easy slope, to th<, 
beginning of the perforation, which is eighty-four feet in length 
This perforation is of various dimensions: the breadth at th^ 
beginning is twelve feet, and in some places less than three , 
but at a medium it may be estimated to be from five to six, 
and the height of the cave ten feet. The whole descent througl 
the rock is 150 feet. 

The origin of this fortress is unknown, some antiquaru 
ascribing it to the Britons, and others to the time of Henry 



LLANDILO VAWR. 183 

'(History makes no mention of it till 1284, when, according to 
'iCaradoc, it was taken from the English by Rhys Vychan. 

GLENHEIR WATERFALL, 

s situated about five miles south of Llandilo Vawr, to the 
ght of the road towards Pont ar Dulas, in the grounds of a 
rivate gentleman. " At this place," says Mr. Barber, " the 
oughor river pursues its course between steep banks clothed 
ith various trees and shrubs. On one of the descents a walk 
I'iis traced, with some ingenuity, in front of a small picturesque 
j'pscade formed by a tributary stream to the Loughor. This 
'might be mistaken for the object sought; but, crossing a rustic 
fibridge, the eye on a sudden encounters the whole river 
j-rushing beneath a portal of trees, and throwing itself over a 
4edge of black rock in a single fall of eighteen feet. The effect 
Hof the whole, seen through the gloom of pendant trees, is 
^undoubtedly striking ; though, it must be confessed, the sheet 
• pi water presenting the formality of an unbroken square, is 
Somewhat unpicturesque. 

lj GOLDEN GROVE, 

tmbout three miles from Llandilo, on the left of the road 
towards Caermarthen, is the seat of Lord Cawdor, by whom it 
?pas been lately rebuilt. A curious specimen of the drinking- 
-horn, called Hirlas, is preserved here. 

l| GRONGAR HILL, 

jjln sight of Golden Grove, and about the same distance from 
■Llandilo, but on the opposite side of the road to Caer- 
jmarthen, has been celebrated by the poem of Dyer, and is 
ow the property of one of his descendants. The view from 
his eminence is remarkably beautiful. The hawthorn under 
(which it is said Dyer wrote his poem entitled " Grongar Hill," 
'kill exists. 






t DRYSLYN, OR DRUSSLYN CASTLE, 

About six miles from Llandilo, near the road to Caermarthen^ 



184 LLANDOVERY. 

forms a conspicuous object. These ruins consist chiefly of 
parts of the walls and fragments of one of the towers. They 
command a fine view of the Vale of Towey. 

MIDDLETON HALL, 

About seven miles from Llandilo, and in sight of the road to 
Caermarthen, was formerly the seat of Sir W. Paxton. In the 
grounds is a castle, or folly, intended for a summer-house. 

LLANDOVERY, 

IN CAERMARTHENSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Brecon 20 Llangadock 7 

Builth 22i London 187 

Lampeter • 16 Trecastle 9 

Llandilo Vawr 14£ Tregaron 11 

Or Llan ym Ddyfri, is a small town, situated near the 
junction of the Gwydderig and the Bran. The latter joins the 
Towey, about a mile distant, where there is a Bridge of one 
arch, forty-five feet in the span, erected by Edwards, the 
architect of Pont y Pridd. It contains about 1300 inha- 
bitants, many of whom are employed in the manufacture o 
woollen stockings. 

On an eminence near the centre of the town, between tht 
two streams, are the remains of a small Castle, the origin o 
which is unknown. In 1113 it was besieged by Gruffydd al 
Rhys, but successfully defended by Richard de Pws. Ir 
1214 it belonged to Rhys Frechan, from whose forces it wa: 
taken by an army of Welsh and Normans. 

Llandovery was the birth-place of the Rev. Rhys Prit 
chard, the author of the " Vicar's Book;" a work well known ir 
the Principality. He was buried here, but no inscriptioi 
marks the place of his interment. 

The Market is held on Saturday. The chief Inn is 
Castle. 



LLANDRINDOD. 185 



CWM DWR, 

rhrough which the high road from Llandovery to Trecastle pro- 
ceeds, is a romantic pass, winding through a beautifully wooded 
£len which encircles a lofty mountain. 

LLANDRINDOD, 

IN RADNORSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Builth 7 New Radnor 12 

Penybont 3 Rhaiadyr 13 

I 

Or Llan y Drindod, that is, the Church of the Trinity, is 
celebrated for its mineral waters, which, according to Dr. 
Linden, were used by the inhabitants of the vicinity as far 
back as 1670. In 1726, they began to be visited by strangers 
from distant parts of the country ; and, in 1749, additional 
[louses were erected, by Mr. Grosvenor, of Shrewsbury. One 
bf the buildings then erected was large enough to receive 
•upwards of a hundred visitors. Since that period, they are 
mnually much frequented in the summer season. Several 
)ther boarding-houses have been built, and lodgings may be 
)btained in the vicinity. 

Llandrindod is situated on a common, about five miles in 

ength and one in breadth. There are three springs, all within 

ji short distance, but not participating with the qualities of each 

I pther. We shall notice each of them, premising that no person 

i should commence a course of mineral waters without consult- 

ng a medical man. 

First. The Rock-water, which issues out of a slate rock, 
Jind contains a strong impregnation of iron-earth, salts, and 
: blphur. A glass of this water, taken from the rock on a clear 
jjlay, appears like common spring water, and as bright as 
; prystal, but after standing a short time acquires a chalybeate 
ijaste and smell, and changes into a pearl colour. This water 
|ias had a beneficial effect in various diseases, but is usually 
confined to those which are chronic, proceeding from a weak- 



186 LLANDRINDOD. 

ness in the fibres ; also in scorbutic eruptions, weak nerves 
palsies, or a laxity of the whole frame, and in agues, where 
bark proves ineffectual. The best time for drinking this wate; 
is between six and seven in the morning, before breakfast, anc 
in the following quantities. Begin with three quarters of i 
pint, adding each morning one quarter, to the amount of i 
quart. After this, a gentle walk is advisable ; another glass t( 
be taken before dinner, and two more on going to bed. 

Secondly. The Saline Spring, about one hundred yard 
north of that which is sulphureous. This water has beei 
very serviceable in many diseases, particularly in the scurvy 
and other eruptions ; the hypochondriac malady, proceedinj 
from a superabundance of the juices ; in low fevers, th 
leprosy, &c. It should be drank from about the middle o, 
March to November. Bleeding is generally recommendei 
previous to its use. The quantities are half a pint befor : 
breakfast, half a pint between breakfast and dinner, and anothe 
before going to bed. 

Thirdly. The Sulphur, or Black Water, when thrown on he 
iron, emits a blue flame, and smells like brimstone. Silve 
leaves have been changed in less than six minutes into a fin 
yellow gold colour. This water is well adapted for an artificic 
bath, or, applied externally, for relieving chronic diseases. 3 
is taken internally in the subsequent cases, viz., ulcers, leprosj 
the scurvy, diseases of the head, rheumatism, and gouty coir; 
plaints. It should be drank, like other mineral waters, in th 
morning fasting, or between breakfast and dinner ; on n 
account in the afternoon, unless at meals, with brandy c 
rum, or about half a pint at bed-time. The dose cannot we 
be ascertained without a previous knowledge of the patient 
disease. It is advisable to begin with a pint, taken at shco 
intervals, and in moderate draughts, increasing the quantity a 
seems necessary. Walking or riding much should be avoide 
after drinking this water. 

There are two Inns, which are also boarding-houses, th 
Rock House and the Pump House. The rivers Ithon an 
Wye afford excellent sport to the lovers of angling. 



LLANDUDNO. — LLANDULA9. 187 



LLANDUDNO, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from 
Abergeley '••• 16 Conway 



Or Llandidno, is a small church, situated on the promontory 
ailed Orme's Head, and serving as a beacon. Between 
tilandudno and Conway are Gloddaeth and Bodscallen, two 
Meats of the Mostyn family. 

,, GREAT ORME'S HEAD, OR GOGARTH, 

m a lofty promontory to the north of Conway, forming the 
Eastern boundary of the entrance into Beaumaris Bay. Little 
fioubt can be entertained that this vast unconnected rock was 
formerly an island, as it is at present joined to the main land 
[only by low marshes. It consists entirely of lime-stone, very 
|)ure and hard. Some copper is procured from two mines near 
^jhe top of the mountain. Towards the sea the cliffs are very 
^jibrupt, and hollowed into various inaccessible caverns by the 
gashing of the water. In this secure retreat multitudes of 
'fulls, cormorants, herons, razor-bills, ravens, and rock-pigeons, 
! iave taken up their abode ; and some of the steepest crags are 
inhabited by the peregrine falcon. 

f The sea view from Orme's Head is extensive, and is 
generally enlivened by the passage of vessels between Liver- 
s' )ool and the ports of Wales. The prospect likewise includes 
| he coast of Lancashire and Cheshire, and, in fine weather, the 
'jsle of Man, and the coasts of Ireland and Scotland. 

Little Orme's Head is, as its name imports, a rock of less 
dimensions, situated on the south-east of Great Orme's Head. 

LLANDULAS, 

I 

IN A DETACHED PART OF CAERNARVONSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles* 

• ••'• 2i Conway...- • r« 9 



188 LLANEDWEN. LLANELIAN. 

Llandulas, or the Dark Village, is situated on the littl 
river Dulas, near its entrance into the sea. In the vicinity c 
this place, it is said, Richard II. was captured by a ban, 
of ruffians, sent by the Earl of Northumberland. 

Llysfaen, or Llysvan Hill, about a mile distant, on the le: 
of the road towards Conway, commands a fine view of th, 
hills round Conway, Orme's Head, and Priestholme Islanc 
The pedestrian going to Conway can ascend the hill, and re. 
enter the road about two miles and a half from Llandulas. 

LLANEDWEN, 

IN ANGLESEA. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from 
Menai Bridge 4 PlasNewydd 



This village is situated on the shore of the Menai Strait. ] 
is only remarkable as the burial-place of the Rev. H. Row 
lands, the learned author of " Mona Antiqua Restaurata," wh 
died in 1723. He was interred in the south part of th 
church. 

LLANELIAN, 

IN ANGLESEA, 

Distant from Miles. 

Amlwch 1J 

Is a small village on the northern coast of Anglesea. Th 
Church was founded about 540, by St. Elian. Adjoining it 
a small Chapel, called the Myfir, or Confessional, in whic 
is a curious ancient semicircular box, denominated St. Eli; 
Closet, and supposed to have served both the office of con 
munion-table, and as a chest to contain the vestments an 
church utensils. During the Wake, or Festival, which is hel 
in August, persons of all sizes and all ages enter, or attempt 1 
enter, this box ; and if they can succeed in turning themselv* 
round three times within its narrow limits, they believe 
they shall be fortunate till the ensuing wake. On the coi 
trary, if they cannot succeed, they consider it is an omen < 






ILLANELLY. LLAKERCH YMEDD. 189 

Jl fortune, or of death within the year. There is a hole in the 
Mill of the chapel, through which it is supposed the priests 
ieceived confessions. 

In the church is placed Cuff Elian, Elian's Chest or Poor 
| pox, in the form of a trunk, with an opening at the top for the 
! Idmission of money. Persons out of health were accustomed 
: j |o make their offerings to the saint here, and the amount was 
j formerly very great. 

LLANELLY, 

IN CAERMARTHENSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Kidwelly • 9 Pont ar Dulas 6J 

Lloughor 5 

Pronounced Llanithly, is a small, irregularly-built, and dirty 
own, chiefly inhabited by miners and sailors. It is situated 

Upon a creek of the sea, and the harbour is tolerably good. 

jExcellent coal is obtained here. The tower of the church is 
quare and embattled, and is remarkable for being larger at 
he base than at the upper part, forming a sort of pyramid. 

Pembree, or Venire Hilly about halfway between Llanelly 
|nd Kidwelly, commands a fine sea view. Caermarthen Bay 
ppears beneath, terminated on one side by Wormshead Point, 
nd on the other by the insulated rock of Caldy, in Pembroke- 
hire; the opposite shores of Somerset and Devon, forming- 
he distance, faintly skirt the horizon beyond a vast expanse of 
ea, studded with vessels. Looking internally, the county 

Exhibits a strong undulatory surface, variously chequered with 
Id heaths and rich cultivation. 



LLANERCHYMEDD, 

J IN ANGLESEA, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

L! Amlwch 7 Llangefni 6* 

| Holyhead 15 

Fj Is a considerable market-town deriving importance from its 



190 LLANFAIR. 

vicinity to the Parys Mountain. The Market-day is Wed- 
nesday. 

In the woods of Llygwy, in this parish, is a large cromlech 
called Arthur s Quoit. 

LLANFAIR, 

IN A.NGLESEA, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. ' 

Llangefni • 5 Pentraeth 2J 

Is only remarkable as the birth-place of Goronwy Owen, : 
celebrated scholar and poet. He was born in 1722, educatec 
at the Free School at Bangor, and afterwards removed to Jesu 
College, Oxford. Though his talents were acknowledged an<. 
admired, he struggled hard for a livelihood, and at lengt 1 
expatriated himself to Williamsburg, in Virginia, where he wa 
appointed pastor of the church, but soon died. He was we 1 
acquainted with Latin, Greek, and the Oriental languages, wa 
a skilful antiquary, and an excellent poet. 

LLANFAIR, 

IN MONTGOMERYSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Cann Office 7 Newtown 10 

Dinas Mowddu 18 Oswestry 20 

Mallwyd 16 Welsh Pool 7* 

Llanfair, Llanvair, or Llan Fair yn Nghaer Einion, is 
small market-town, situated between hills, on the banks oft! 
Vyrnwy. The river abounds with a great variety of fish, pa 
ticularly salmon, trout, grayling, perch, tench, roach, gudgeon 
dace, flounders, and carp ; and the inhabitants of this tow 
are said to be very dexterous in using the spear and harpoc 
in the destruction of the finny tribe. 

Llanfair has an ancient Church, and a Market Hous 
The Market is held on Saturday. The population is aboi 
2500. 



LLANFAIR ISCOED CASTLE. LLANFYLLIN. 191 

LLANFAIR ISCOED CASTLE, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caerwent 2 Usk 9 

The ruins of this castle are situated at a short distance 
rom the road between Caerwent and Usk. They chiefly 
onsist of a square and two round towers. The walls are 
even feet in thickness. The best views of the ruins are from 
he south and south-east. The period when this fortress was 
rected is unknown, but it is of considerable antiquity, as it 
jvas in the possession of Sir Robert Pagan in 1290. 

The village is situated beneath the eminence on which the 
lastle stood, and its cemetery is bounded by the turnpike- 



LLANFYLLIN, 

IN MONTGOMERYSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bala 20 Mallwyd 20 

Cann Office ••- 11 Oswestry 14 

Llangynog 9 Shrewsbury 25 

Llanrhaiadyr 5 

Or Llanvyllin, is a market-town, situated in a pleasant val- 
;y. It was incorporated by Llewelyn ap Gruffydd, in the time 
f Edward I. Though many Roman coins have been found 
ere, antiquaries do not allow it the honour of having been a 
toman station, as they say it was not customary for the 
Jritons to prefix Llan, church, to the name of Roman towns, 
ut generally Caer,/or£, or fence. The Church and the Town 
[all are the only public buildings. The Market is held on 
'hursday. Population, 1500. 

Bodfach, about a mile from Llanfyllin, is an elegant man- 
,on, situated in a valley on the banks of the Cain. The 
rounds are richly planted. 



192 LLANGADOCK. — LLANGEFNI. — LLANGOLLEN. 

LLANGADOCK, 

IN CAERMARTHENSIIIRE, 
Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 



Llandilo Vawr 1\ Llandovery 



Is a small town, situated near the Towey, but present 
nothing to arrest the traveller's attention. 

LLANGEFNI, 

IN ANGLESEA. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. ' 

Holyhead 17 Llanerchymedd 6£ ' 

Gwindu 4 1 Menai Bridge 9 

This market-town is situated on the old road from Bangc 
to Holyhead. It has two Inns, a Church, Meeting House: 
and about 700 inhabitants. 

LLANGOLLEN, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Chirk 7 Ruabon 6 

Corwen 10 Ruthin 13J 

London 184 Valle Cruris Abbey 2 

Oswestry 12J- Wrexham 11£ 

Llangollen, pronounced Thlangothlen, is a small and irr 
gularly-built town, with about 4000 inhabitants, situated on tl 
Dee, and much frequented by persons who come to visit tl 
beauties of the adjacent vale. 

The Bridge has long been celebrated for its picturesqi 
appearance, and was formerly considered one of the Vv'onde 
of Wales. It is said to have been originally built by Jol 
Trevor, bishop of St. Asaph, who died in 1 357, and to ha 
been repaired in 1656. It consists of four pointed arches, t L 
largest of which does not exceed twenty-eight feet in diamt 
The great body of the river usually runs under only one, whe 
it has formed a black chasm more than twenty feet deep, 



LLANGOLLEN. 193 

(which the water pours with great fury from a high broken 
jledge, formed in the smooth and solid rock, which composes 
hie whole bed of the river. The view through the arches, 
pither upwards or downwards, is extremely picturesque. The 

f^eir, which was formerly situated immediately beneath the 
ridge, has been removed a few yards lower down the river. 
The Church is not remarkable for its architecture ; but the 
liame of the saint to whom it is dedicated cannot be passed 
jvithout notice. It is St. Collen ap Gwynnawg ap Clydawg ap 
Uowdra ap Caradog Freichfras ap Lleyr Merim ap Einion 
pth ap Cunedda Wledig. The roof, which is curiously 
prved, was brought from the chapel of Valle Crucis Abbey. 
The tourist will be pleased with the view of the river Dee, 
Obtained from the churchyard. A triangular monument will 
lso attract his attention. It was erected by Lady Eleanor 
Sutler and Miss Ponsonby, over a vault of similar shape, 
ptended to be the burial-place of themselves and their servant, 
Mrs. Mary Carryl. The latter died in 1809, and the monu- 
ment bears some lines to her memory. Lady Butler was 
juried here in 1829. 

On the bank of the river, a short distance below the 
ridge, is a Cotton Factory, where coarse cloths are made. 
jftie machinery is impelled by two water wheels. 

The principal Inns are the Hand, or Chirk Castle Arms, 
'-pich has a small but pretty garden on the banks of the river, 
ind the King's Head. The Market-day is Saturday. 
I 

LLANGOLLEN VALE, 

r,|o long the subject of admiration both in prose and poetry, is 
Hounded on each side by lofty mountains of imposing grandeur, 
ihd watered by the Dee, which rolls in cataracts at every 
rjozen yards. The whole is richly diversified with meadows, 
.joodlands, and hills, interspersed with houses. The Vale of 
*|langollen appears to hold a kind of rivalry with those of 
ijlwyd and Festiniog, each being supposed by its admirers to 
p the most beautiful in Wales. 



194 LLANGOLLEN. 



PLAS NEWYDD, 

Which is situated in this vale, at the east end of the towi 
of Llangollen, has long been celebrated as the residence o 
Lady Eleanor Butler and the Hon. Miss Ponsonby. It wa r 
about the year 1779 that these ladies first associated themselve 
to live in retirement. It was thought desirable by thei 
families to separate two individuals who appeared to cheris,, 
each other's eccentricities; and, after their first departur, 
together, they were brought back to their respective relation!.! 
Miss Butler resolutely declined marriage, of which she we 
said to have had five offers; and the ladies soon after cor f 
trived to elope a second time. The place of their retreat i 
the Vale of Llangollen was only confided to a female servanl 
and they lived for many years unknown to their neighbours I j 
any other appellation but " the Ladies of the Vale." Lad 
Butler expired here June 2, 1829. 

Plas Newydd is an elegant little cottage, situated oi 
small knoll, and surrounded by extensive and tasteful grour 
The peculiar style in which these ladies have decorated t! 
retreat has been much admired. A palisade, ornamented v 
antique and grotesque figures carved in oak, encloses tl 
front ; and the door and windows are decorated with carvii; 
of the same material. The rooms are tastefully adorned wi 
drawings, but they have not been exhibited to strangers f 
many years. Persons, however, wishing to see the grounc 
may obtain permission, by sending a letter, stating their nam 
and address. A carriage drive, open to strangers, crosses | 
lawn immediately in front of the cottage. 

CASTLE DINAS BRAN, OB CROW CASTLE, 

About a mile from Llangollen, formerly occupied the sumn 
of a steep and craggy hill. The remains are now trifling, ai 
consist of only a few scattered walls. The ascent is diffia 
and fatiguing. The Castle appears to have been about 3 ■ 
feet in length and 150 in breadth. From its lofty situatic 
it must have been a place of great strength. Of its one 



LLANGOLLEN. 195 

(various opinions are entertained, but it was most probably 
founded by the ancient Britons. Myfanwy Vechan, celebrated 
in poetry, resided here. 

Considering the height of this hill, nearly 1800 feet perpen- 
dicular, it is remarkable that the two wells within the castle 
'jwalls are never dry. The views obtained from this eminence 
•ire extensive and beautiful. Chirk Castle, Wynn Stay, and 
other seats at a less distance, are visible, as well as a consi- 
derable portion of the Vale of Llangollen and the meandering 
bourse of the Dee. 

Within the walls of the old castle is a room much fre- 
quented by tea parties, who are attended by a person who lives 
fan an adjacent cottage. 



VALLE CRUCIS, OR LLAN EGLWEST ABBEY, 



Is situated about two miles from Llangollen, and one mile 
ind a half from Castle Dinas Bran, on the right of the road 
owards Ruthin, and in the centre of a small verdant meadow, 
lit the foot of a high hill called Bron Vawr. The situation 
is one of the most beautiful and secluded in the kingdom, and 
he remains of the abbey are the finest ecclesiastical ruins in 
Wales. 

This abbey was a house of Cistercians, founded about the 
rear 1200, by Madoc ap GryfFydd Maclor, lord of Dinas Bran, 
md dedicated to the Virgin. It derived its name of Crucis from 
he adjacent cross, called Eliseg's pillar. Although converted 
J nto a farm-house, it still retains many of its monastic features. 
Three rows of groined arches, or single round pillars, support 
he dormitory, which is now a hay-loft. A chimney in one of 
he bed-chambers has the relic of a sepulchral monument, with 

|his broken inscription : Hie jacet arvrvj. The 

jloors are remarkably thick, and partly supported by rows of 
Gothic arches. 

The Church appears to have been cruciform. The east 
nd west ends, together with part of the transepts, are still 
n existence, and exhibit a specimen of the ornamented Gothic 
ttyle which prevailed in the thirteenth century. The whole 



196 LLANGOLLEN. 

length of the church was 180 feet. The breadth of the nave 
was thirty-one feet, and of the aisles thirteen feet. The west i 
front has an arched door, with two of its mouldings adorned 
with a kind of nail-head quatrefoil, and over it, in a round 
arch, are three lancet windows, with a marigold one above, 
containing eight divisions. The latter formerly bore this in- 
scription : . ad . . . adam . . . dns . . . fecit hoc opus pace : 
beat a quiescat. Underneath, md . . . . 

The area of the church is overgrown with tall ash-trees, 
which partly conceal by their branches the ivy-clad walls,; 
and combine to render the Abbey as picturesque an object as a 
painter could desire. 

eliseg's pillar 

Is situated in a meadow, about 300 yards from the Abbey. IfJ 
is supposed to have been erected about 1000 years ago, to the- 
memory of Eliseg, the father of Brochwel, Prince of Powis, who 
was slain by the Saxons in the battle of Chester, in the year 607 
His great grandson, Concern, was the person who erected it' 
It was originally twelve feet in height, but is now not mon 
than eight feet. Having been thrown down and broken during 
the Civil Wars, it lay neglected, until Mr. Lloyd, of Trevo 
Hall, in 1779, ordered it to be erected on its pedestal. Onb 
the upper part of the original shaft remains. It bears son* 
vestiges of the original inscription, but too illegible to decipher 
There is also a modern inscription. 

The tumulus on which the pillar stands was opened a fe\ 
years back, and some bones were found placed between two fla 
stones, the usual mode of interment in former times. Mi 
Pennant supposed Eliseg's Pillar to be the most ancient Britis 
inscribed pillar now existing. 

PONT CYSYLLTAU, OR CYSYLLTY AQUEDUCT, 

Pronounced Pontycasult, is about four miles from Llangollei 
at a short distance from the road towards Chirk. The touri: 
may proceed along the high road towards Chirk, and inquii 
for it at the turnpike, four miles from the town; or, crossin 



LLANGOLLEN. 197 

J the Bridge at Llangollen, ascend the hill to the Canal, and 
4 walk along its banks till he arrives at the Aqueduct. 

This extraordinary Aqueduct was constructed for the pur- 
I pose of conveying the Ellesmere Canal over the river and vale 
I of the Dee. It was commenced in 1795, from designs by Mr. 
| Telford, and completed in ten years. Its direction is from 
north to south, crossing the Dee at right angles ; and it forms, 
in connexion with the exquisite scenery surrounding it, a noble 
.] and magnificent picture. To view it, however, to the best 
advantage, the stranger must descend on either side of it into 
the valley beneath ; he will then be impressed with its stupen- 
dous character. Though the aqueducts of the Romans were 
superior to it in length, they were inferior to it in other 
respects. 

It consists of nineteen arches, resting upon square stone 
pillars, and is built of sand-stone, which bears considerable 
resemblance to that of Portland. The river flows through three 
of the arches, nearly in the centre. On the south side of the 
middle pillar, near its base, is the following inscription : — 



The nobility and gentry of 

The adjacent counties, 

Having united their efforts with 

The great commercial interests of this country, 

In creating an intercourse and union between 

England and North Wales, 

By a navigable communication of the three rivers, 

Severn, Dee, and Mersey, 

For the mutual benefit of agriculture and trade, 

Caused the first stone of this aqueduct of 

PONT CYSYLLTY 

To be laid on July xxv. m.dcc.xcv., 

When Richard Middleton, of Chirk, Esq., M.P., 

One of the original patrons of the 

Ellesmere canal, 

Was lord of this manor, 

And in the reign of our sovereign 

George the Third, 

When the equity of the laws and the security of property 

Promoted the general welfare of the nation, 

While the arts and sciences flourished 

By his patronage, and 

The conduct of civil life was improved by his example. 



198 LLANGYNOG. — LLANHAIARN. 

DIMENSIONS OF THE AQUEDUCT. 

Feet. In. 

Length of the cast iron trough for the water 1007 

Breadth of the water-way within the iron-work 11 10 

Depthofditto 5 3 

Span of each of the nineteen arches, at the top 45 

Height from the surface of the rock, on the south side of 

the river, to the top of the side-plates 126 8 

Length of the earthen embankment on the south side of 

the river 1504 

Height of ditto at the south abutment 75 

LLANGYNOG, 

IN MONTGOMERYSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bala ii Llanrhaiadyr 5 

Llanfyllin 9 

Or Llangannoch, the Church of St. Cynog, is a small villag* 
situated in a valley watered by the river Tanat, and enclosec 
by the Berwyn Mountains. The river is celebrated for it! 
delicious trout. The New Inn affords tolerable accommodation 

About two miles and a half distant is the celebrated lead 
mine called Craig y Mwn, which was discovered in 1692, an< 
for forty years afforded an annual revenue of 20,000/. to th 
Powis family. The water then broke in, and the undertakinj 
was abandoned. The vein of lead ore was ten feet thick. 

On the other side of the village, and visible from th 
churchyard, is the lofty and perpendicular rock of Llangynog 
which supplies an immense quantity of coarse slates. 

The Church of Pennant, one mile and a half from Liang}- 
nog, was the burial-place of St. Monacella or Melangell, th 
patron saint of hares. This legend is perpetuated in some rud 
sculptures, representing hares running to her for protection. > 



LLANHAIARN, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 
Caernarvon 13 Pwllheli 9 ' 

Llanhaiarn, Llanaelhauarn, or Llan Elhaiarn, is a sma 



LLANIDAN. 199 

village near the west coast of the Promontory of Llyn. Its 
Church, situated on an eminence, forms a good landmark. 

Between this place and the sea is the lofty and triple-peaked 
range of the Rhifel, Reifl, or Eifl Mountains, which form con- 
spicuous objects from Caernarvon and other parts of the county. 
Upon the first of these three eminences, about a mile from Llan- 
haiarn, is Tre yr Cairi, or the Town of Fortresses, which Mr. 
Pennant described as "the most perfect and magnificent, as 
well as the most artfully-constructed British post he ever 
beheld." The only accessible side was defended by three 
walls, which appear to have been very lofty. The area is 
irregularly shaped, and near the centre is a square space 
surrounded by the fragments of habitations. 

Near Tre yr Cairi is Nant Gwrtheyrn, or Vortigerns Valley, 
an immense hollow bounded by rocky declivities, and only open 
towards the sea. A verdant mount in this valley is said to have 
been the site of Vortigern's residence ; and a tomb here, opened 
some years ago, was found to contain the bones of a tall man, 
which gives some credibility to the tradition. 

LLANIDAN, 

IN ANGLESEA, 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Mites. 
Caernarvon 3 Menai Bridge 6 

Is a small village, situated near the shore of the Menai, and 
remarkable as the place where the Romans under Suetonius 
Paulinus landed, and destroyed great numbers of the Britons. 
In the Church is a curious relic called Maen Mordhwyd, or 
the Stone of the Thigh. Giraldus says it was so constant to 
one place, that, let it be carried ever so far, it would return at 
night. Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, determining to subdue 
its locomotive faculties, fastened it with a chain to a far greater 
| stone, and flung it into the sea ; but, to the astonishment of all 
j beholders, it was found next morning in its usual place. 



200 LLANIDLOES. 

LLANIDLOES, 

IN MONTGOMERYSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Aberystwith, by Devil'sBridge 30 Machynlleth 19J 

Aberystwith, by the New Newtown 13 

Road, about- •• < 28 Rhaiadyr 11 

Devil'sBridge 18| 

Llanidloes, or the Church of St. Idloes, is a small towr 
pleasantly situated near the Severn, over which is a Bridge. I". 
is built in the form of a cross, with a Market-house in th( 
centre. Some of the streets are spacious, but very dirty; anc 
the houses generally are mean, being built of laths and muc 
between timber frame- work. 

The Church is an ancient edifice, with a curiously-carvec 
oak roof. The nave is separated from the aisles by column: 
surmounted with capitals of palm-leaves and other ornaments 
which are said to have been brought from the Abbey of Cwn 
Hir, in Radnorshire. 

There are about 2800 inhabitants, many of whom are em 
ployed in the manufacture of flannel. A considerable trade i, 
carried on in wool. There are extensive sheep-walks near th 
town, and in the vicinity is a quarry of coarse slate. Th 
Market-day is Saturday. 

Inns. The New Inn, the Queen's Arms. 

SOURCE OF THE SEVERN. 

From Llanidloes the Severn may be traced to its source- oi 
Plinlimmon, about twelve miles distant. The tourist mus 
proceed along the north bank of the river, passing Old Har 
the farm-house of Glyn Hafren, Geifron, to the farm of Blae: 
Hafren, about three miles beyond which is the head or spring 
The water is here a strong chalybeate, leaving an ochrou 
deposit several inches in thickness. About two miles fror, 
this spot is the Source of the Wye. 



LLANLLYFNI. LLANRHAIADYR, &C. 201 

LLANLLYFNI, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caernarvon 8 Tremadoc 10J 

This small village is situated among meadows bounded by 
mountains, on the road from Caernarvon to Tremadoc. Hence 
the tourist may make an excursion up a romantic vale, about 
five miles in length, passing by Llyniau Nantle, to Drws y 
Coed. See Beddgelart. 

On the mountain called Mynydd Mawr, about three miles 
] distant, are extensive slate-quarries. 

LLANRHAIADYR, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 
Denbigh 2J Ruthin 5* 

Llanrhaiadyr, or Church of the Fountain, is a small village 
situated on the road from Ruthin to Denbigh, in the delightful 
Vale ofClwyd. The Church, dedicated to St. Dyfnog, con- 
tains a curious stained glass window, representing our Saviour's 
descent from David. In the churchyard is a singular inscrip- 
tion to John ap Robert, whose pedigree is traced up to Cadell, 
king of Powis. At a short distance is a spring called Ffynnon 
Dyfnog, at which there was formerly a Bath and a Chapel 
dedicated to the Saint. 

LLANRHAIADYR YN MOCHNANT, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bala 16 Llangynog 5 

Llanfyllin 5 Oswestry 13 

Is a small village, situated on the south border of the 
k2 



202 LLANRWST. 

county, just at the outlet of a confined and pretty valley called 
Mochnant, or the Vale of the Rapid Brook. It is almost sur- 
rounded by mountains. The houses are nearly all old and 
decaying, and in the centre of the village is a tottering market- 
house. Dr. Morgan, who first translated the Bible into Welsh, 
was a native and vicar of this place. He was afterward Bishop 
of LlandafF, and was translated to St. Asaph, where he died in 
1604. 

The Inn called the Coach and Horses affords tolerable 
accommodation. 

PISTYLL RHAIADYR, - 

Or the Spout of the Cataract, said to be the largest waterfall in 1 
Wales, is situated in the Valley of Mochnant, about four miles 
and a half from the village of Llanrhaiadyr. Here the little' 
river Rhaiadyr falls down a dark and almost perpendicular' 
crag, 210 feet in height. For about two-thirds of this space" 
the water slides down the flat face of a naked rock : thence it' 
rages through a natural arch, and, passing between two pro- 
minent sides, makes a second fall into an accessible basin 
The first fall is about 140 feet in height. It then proceeds 
through a wooded dell, forming a boundary line which separate* 
the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, and, passing by th( 
village, falls into the Tanat. 

Though this is certainly the highest, it is far from being the 
most picturesque waterfall in Wales, as it is totally destitute o 
wood. W T hen the sun shines on the upper part, it is visible a 
a great distance. Near the foot of the rock is a room built fo ' 
the use of visitors, by the late Dr. Worthington, Vicar of Llan 
rhaiadyr. The road to the fall is scarcely passable for carriages 

LLANRWST, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE, 
Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

BettwsyCoed 3 Denbigh 18 - 

Capel Curig 8 Festiniog 18 

Cernioge Inn 10^ London 218 

Conway 12 

Is a small market-town, pleasantly situated on the east ban 






LLANRWST. 203 

| of the river Conway, in a luxuriant vale, so beautiful that Mr. 
Burke pronounced it "the most charming spot he had seen in 
Wales." The town itself presents nothing deserving particular 
notice, for the streets are narrow and the houses irregularly- 
built. 

In the centre of the Market Square is the Town Hall, 
erected by Maurice Wynne, Esq., in 1661; and at the east 
end of the town is the Free School, founded in the seventeenth 
century. 

The Church, situated close to the river-side, is a mean- 
looking building, dedicated to Grustus or Grwst, a British 
saint, who lived in the sixth century. It was originally erected 
about 1170, and rebuilt in the time of Edward IV. The 
music-gallery, pulpit, and reading-desk, are ancient, having 
been brought here from the Abbey of Conway at Maenan. 

Adjoining the Church is a Chapel, erected in 1633, by Sir 
R. Wynne, from a design by Inigo Jones. Against the wall 
are several brasses, which are fine specimens of the chasing of 
the seventeenth century. Four of them were executed by Syl- 
vanus Crew ; but that representing Dame Sarah Wynne, by 
William Vaughan, is the most admired. In the middle of the 
floor are two ancient sculptures, one of which is the effigy of 
Howel Coytmor ap Gruffyd Vychan ap David Gam ; the other 
is part of the stone coffin of Llewelyn the Great, who died in 
1240: it was removed from the Abbey at Maenan. There are 
other monuments of the Wynne family, one of which traces the 
pedigree of Sir Richard Wynne, who died in 1649, from Owen 
Gvvynedd. 

The churchyard is adorned with three yew-trees. Near 
j the gate are Aims-Houses, founded by Sir J. Wynne in 
I 1610. 

The Bridge over the Conway, leading to Gwydir, is an 
J elegant structure, erected by Sir Richard Wynne in 1636, from 
I designs by Inigo Jones, who, according to some, was a native 
J of this place, though others say he was born in London. It 
j consists of three freestone arches, the middle one being 59 feet 
; in span and 24 feet in height. The other arches are only 30 



204 LLANRWST. 

feet in span and 15 feet in height. That nearest to Gwydir 
was rebuilt in 1703. The total length of the bridge is 510 feet, 
its breadth 15. This Bridge, it is said, is easily shaken: a lad,' 
falling forcibly against the parapet above the middle arch, may 
make the whole structure vibrate. 

Llanrwst contains about 1500 inhabitants. The Market is 
held on Tuesday. The Eagles is the principal Inn. 

GWYDIR, 

About half a mile distant, the seat of the Wynne family, was 
built in 1555, by John Wynne ap Meredydd. It contains 
some curious ancient furniture ; and here also is preserved tru 
cradle in which some members of the family were nursed 
This is said to have been the first house in the Principalit} 
fitted up with glass windows. 

Of Upper Gwydir, situated on an eminence surrounded b) c 
trees, above the other, only the Chapel remains. It was buil 
by Sir R. Wynne, in 1673. From this spot there is a fine view 
of the Vale of Conway. 

RHAIADYR Y PARC MAWR, 

Situated in the valley called Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, nea 
Gwydir, is a cataract which falls about 100 feet. The quantity 
of water, however, is seldom large enough to produce mue) 
effect. 

GWITHERIN, 

About five miles east of Llanrwst, is an ancient Nunnery, a 
which, it is said, St. Winifred was buried. The box in whic) 
her relics were deposited is shewn in the church, but her cha 
pel, on the south side, is quite destroyed. In the churchyarr 
are four upright stones, one of which, of triangular shape, bear 
the remains of an inscription. 

MAENAN ABBEY 

Was situated about three miles north of Llanrwst. The remain 1 
have been converted into a farm. 



LLANSTEPHAN. 205 



TREFRIW, OR TREVRIW, 

Is a small village, two miles lower down the Conway than 
Llanrwst. It is remarkable for a mineral spring, containing 
common salt. Llewelyn had a palace here, but no remains of 
it exist. Numerous small vessels are built at this village, up 
to which the tide flows from the sea. 

From Llanrwst, also, the tourist may visit Rhaiadyr Dol- 
garrog, five miles distant, and Rhaiadyr Forth Llwyd, six 
miles, but both in the same direction. See Conwat. 

LLANSTEPHAN, 

IN CARMARTHENSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caermarthen 7 Llaugharne 5 

Kidwelly 6 

This is a pleasant village, situated at the mouth of the river 
Towy, and much resorted to for sea-bathing. At high water, 
there is a ferry to\he village on the opposite side of the river 3 
and when the tide is out, the sands may be crossed and the 
river forded with the assistance of a guide. 

Llanstephan Castle is a venerable ruin, crowning the sum- 
mit of a bold hill, the precipitous base of which is washed by 
the sea. Its broken walls enclose a large area, and, furnished 
with several encircling earthen ramparts, appear to have pos- 
j sessed considerable strength. From numerous stations it offers 
a truly picturesque appearance, and, in the approach, charm- 
ingly combines with the surrounding landscape ; which, ever 
varying, is sometimes confined to a woody character ; at others, 
exhibits the wide estuary, the rocky promontory forming its 
opposite shore, and the boundless sea. 

This castle is said to have been built by the sons of Uch- 
tred, prince of Merionethshire, in 1138, but soon after fell into 
the hands of the Normans and Flemings. In 1145 it was taken 
from them by Cadelh, son of Rhys, Prince of South Wales, 
and so vigorously maintained that the utmost force which the 



206 LLANTHONY ABBEY. 

foreigners could raise was unable to retake it. However, by 
the year 1189 it must have been in the possession of the Eng-i 
lish, as Caradoc informs us that it was then taken from them 
by Prince Rhys. 

LLANTHONY ABBEY, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. ] 

Abergavenny 10 Hay 11 

Crickhowell 7 

This venerable ruin is situated in the retired Vale of Ewias_ 
which is surrounded by the dreary summits of the Blacl; 
Mountains, and watered by the river Honddu, here called the 
Llanthony Stream, — 

" Llanthony, dear to monkish tale, 
And still the pride of Ewias' Vale." 

Venerable and grand, but almost wholly devoid of orna 
ment, it partakes of the character of the surrounding scenery 
Only a few tendrils of ivy decorate the massive walls of th< 
structure", and but a sprinkling of shrubs and light branch 
trees fringe the parapets or shade the broken fragments beneath 

" The area of the church," says Mr. Barber, " is not ver 
extensive : the length is 212 feet, the breadth 50, and it mea 
sures 100 across the transepts. The roof has long since falle ' 
in, and a great part of the south wall is now prostrate ; but th 
view afforded of the interior, in consequence, is extremely gran 
and picturesque. A double row of pointed arches, reposing o 
massive piers, separate the side aisles from the nave; abov 
which, divided from the Gothic form by a strait band or fasck 
is a series of small circular arches, — an intermixture an 
arrangement of the two forms which characterise the earlie; 
use of Gothic architecture. Two lofty arches, rising from th 
middle of the church, still sustain a massive portion of th 
tower. The grandeur of the western front cannot be passe, 
unnoticed ; nor, looking over the fragments of the choir, th 






LLANTHONY ABBEY. 207 

line view of the inside ruin seen through the great eastern arch 
Iff the tower; neither is a small chapel adjoining the south 
transept, with a well-formed engroined roof, to be overlooked : 
ihe transept is remarkable for a large Norman archway, which 
lied into the south aisle of the choir." 

Several apartments of the Abbey are still in sufficient pre- 
servation to be habitable, and these are fitted up as bed-rooms 
(for the accommodation of visitors. 

This Abbey was founded for Cistercian Monks, by Walter 
|de Lacy, at the beginning of the twelfth century, and was 
(afterwards endowed by Milo, Earl of Hereford. St. David, 
[the uncle of King Arthur, and the patron saint of Wales, say 
ancient legends, was so struck with this sequestered recess, that 
,he built a chapel here, and passed many years in it as a hermit. 
Here, according to Drayton,— 

" He did only drink what chrystal Hodney yields, 
And fed upon the leeks he gather'd in the fields ; 
In memory of whom, in the revolving year, 
The Welchman on his day that sacred herb do wear." 

The following extract, however, from Shakspeare's Henry V., 
gives this custom of wearing leeks an origin of later date : — 

" Fluellen. Your grandfather, of famous memory, and please your Majesty, 
and your great uncle Edward the Plack Prince of Wales, as I have read in the 
Chronicles, fought a most prave pattle here in France* 

"King Hen. They did. 

" Flu. Your Majesty says very true. If your Majesties is remembered of it, 
the Welchmen did goot service in a garden where leeks did grow, wearing leeks 
in their Monmouth caps; which, your Majesty knows, to this hour, is an 
honourable padge of the service : and I do believe your Majesty takes no scorn 
to wear the leek upon St. Tavy's Day. 

" King Hen. I wear it for a memorable honour; for I am Welch, you 
jknow, good countryman." 
I 

William, a retainer of the Earl of Hereford, in the reign of 
[William Rufus, being led into the valley in pursuit of a deer, 
i (discovered the hermitage. The solitude and mysterious aspect 
• of the building deeply affected him, and he renounced the 
jworld for a life of mortification and prayer. Llanthony now 
; 5 |belongs to Walter Landor, Esq., the author of " Imaginary 
'!; Conversations." 



208 LLANTRISSENT, 

The following beautiful lines, for a monument in the Val»! 
of Ewias, were written by Mr. Southey : — 

" Here was it, stranger, that the patron saint 
Of Cambria pass'd his age of penitence, 
A solitary man ; and here he made 
His hermitage, the roots his food, his drink 
Of Honddy's mountain-stream. Perchance thy youth 
Has read with eager wonder how the Knight 
Of Wales, in Ormandine's enchanted bower, 
Slept the long sleep : and if that in thy veins 
Flows the pure blood of Britain, sure that blood 
Has flowed with quicker impulse at the tale 
Of Dafydd's deeds, when through the press of war 
His gallant comrades followed his green crest 
To conquests. Stranger ! Hatterel's mountain heights, 
And this fair vale of Ewias, and the stream 
Of Honddy, to thine after-thoughts will rise 
More grateful, thus associate with the name 
Of Dafydd and the deeds of other days." 

LONGTOWN, 

About three miles from Llanthony Abbey, is supposed to hav 
been the Blestium of the Romans. It is a sequestered village 
on the banks of the Minnow, and has some vestiges of a Castl< 
but by whom or when erected is unknown. 



LLANTRISSENT, 



IN GLAMORGANSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles., 

Bridgend 7 Liandaff- 8J 

Cardiff.- 11 Merthyr Tydvil 16i 

Cowbridge U PontyPridd 4* 

Llantrissent, Llantrissant, or Llantrisaint, that is, the Churc 
with Three Saints, is an ancient town, containing about 28C 
inhabitants. It is situated near the top of a cleft in one of th 
lofty hills which bound the Vale of Glamorgan. It has tF 
remains of a Castle, within the precincts of which the Marque; 
of Bute, some years ago, erected a Market House and Tow. 
Hall. The vicinity abounds with lead ore. 



LLANWRTYD. — LLAN Y MYNACH. 209 

The Church is a large edifice, of Norman architecture ; and 
from the churchyard there is a fine view of the most beautiful 
and fertile parts of the Vale of Glamorgan. 

Inns. The Cross Keys, the New Inn. 

LLANWRTYD, 

IN BRECKNOCKSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Builth 14 Tregaron 13 

Llandovery • 11 

Or Llanworthid, is noted for its mineral waters, which 
are said to resemble those of Harrowgate in Yorkshire. It is 
situated between two hills, in a romantic vale watered by the 
Irfon, the banks of which are adorned with hanging woods and 
impending rocks. 

The well was discovered by a clergyman, about 200 years 
^go, and has since been annually frequented by numerous 
visitors, for whose accommodation a house called Dol-y-Coed 
has been erected. Its Welsh name is Fynnon Drewllyd, or 
jFoetid Well, as it smells strongly of sulphur, of which it con- 
ains a large proportion. It also contains neutral salts. Xtoe 

ater is very transparent, and never loses its taste or smell, 
hen poured out, it sparkles and emits a great quantity of air- 

ubbles. This water is recommended for nervous affections, 
scorbutic eruptions, &c. The best road to Llanwrtyd is from 

landovery. 

LLAN Y MYNACH, 

IN SHROPSHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

jlj Llanfyllin 10 Shrewsbury 17 

J Llanrhaiadyr yn Mochnant •• 10 Welsh Pool ~9h 

| Oswestry ■. 5| 

Llan y Mynach is situated on the west border of the county, 
ind on the banks of the river Vyrnwy, which abounds with a 



210 LLAUGHARNE. 

great variety of fish. Its name denotes the Village of Monks, 
though history does not inform us that any monastic establish- 
ment existed here. The Montgomeryshire Canal, which form; 
a communication between the rivers Severn, Dee, and Mersey 
passes this place, and crosses the Vyrnwy at a short distance.— 
Inn. The Cross Keys. 

The Hill of Llan y Mynach is remarkable for its extensive 
lime-works. The lime lies in a strata, parallel to the horizon, 
varying in thickness from three inches to five feet ; it is of ai 
extraordinary hardness, with but little calcareous spar, and fev 
shells, or rather marine exuvial; its colour reddish brown 
burning almost to white. It is highly esteemed for manure 
and great quantities of it are sent away by the canal. This hi] 
also affords copper, zinc, lead, and calamine. It was explores 
by the Romans, the traces of whose works are still visibU. 
One of the levels, called Ogo, made by them, was explored i: 
1760, when several skeletons, some mining instruments, and 
few Roman coins, were discovered. 

From the top of this eminence there is an extensive view 
embracing the Severn, with its tributary streams the Tanat an 
the Vyrnwy, the Breiddon Hills and the Berwyn Mountains i 
the distance. When the sun shines, the Waterfall of Pisty 
Rhaiadyr may be distinctly seen. 

Along the west side of Llan y Mynach Hill runs Offa 
Dyke. See Wynn Stay. 

LLAUGHARNE, 

IN CAERMARTHENSHTRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caermarthen 12J Narberth 15 

Kidwelly, by Llanstephan • • 11 Tenby 16 

Llanstephan 5 u 

Or Lacharn, pronounced Larn, is a small and irregularl 
built town, occupying a retired situation at the mouth of tl 
river Tave or Taf, across which is a ferry to Llanstephan. Tl. 
population is about 1600. The Market is held on Friday, ar 



LLOUGHOR. 211 

Ifjs well supplied. Living is cheap here, and many families who 
elvish for an economical retirement reside in this sequestered 
tot. 

Towards the south end of the town, and close on Caermar- 
■jhen Bay, are vestiges of a Castle, which was built by the 
Normans prior to 1214, and afterwards fell into the hands of 
'(Llewelyn the Great. 

In the Church are preserved the cloak and mantle of Guido 
jle Bran, who, in the reign of King John, granted some lands 
1 o this town. The churchyard occupies the side of a declivity, 
"from the top of which there is a pretty view. 
| Llaugharne was the birth-place of the once celebrated poli- 
tical writer Dean Tucker, who died in 1799. The sands in 
-.he vicinity abound with curious shells. 
i Inn. The Castle. 

KOCH CASTLE, 

pne mile from Llaugharne, and now in ruins, is supposed to 
5 liave been a monastic foundation. 

GREEN BRIDGE, 

\bout five miles from Llaugharne, in the direction of Tenby, is 
natural excavation in the rock, into which a little rivulet 
nters, and, running for a mile and a half, mingles its waters 
vith the ocean. The tourist will not be able to find it without 
i guide, as it is completely hidden from the road. 

LLOUGHOR, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Llanelly 5 Swansea • 6 

* Or Lwghor, supposed to have been the Lucarium of Anto- 
ninus, is situated at the mouth of the river of the same name, 
i which for a considerable distance forms the boundary between 
; Glamorganshire and Caermarthenshire. An old house, called the 



212 LUDLOW. 

Sanctuary, is said to have belonged, in former times, to th 
Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. 

The Church is seated on an eminence commanding fir. 
views. In the churchyard is the following pretty epitapl 
containing an allusion to the Welsh custom of planting grave 
with flowers : — 

" The village maidens to her grave shall bring 
Selected garlands each returning spring, i 

Selected sweets, in emblem of the maid 
Who underneath this hallowed turf is laid: 
Like her, they flourish, beauteous to the eye ; 
Like her, too soon, they languish, fade, and die." 

On a small mount, conjectured to have been thrown up \ L 
the Romans, are vestiges of a Castle, which was last repain 
in the reign of Henry II. In the vicinity are collieries ar 
copper-works. 

The river is fordable from two hours before low water t: 
within two hours of high water. At other times there is 
ferry-boat for the conveyance of foot-passengers. 

LUDLOW, 

IN SHROPSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles 

Bishop's Castle 17 London 143 

Knighton 16£ Presteign 16* 

Leominster - • • • 10i , Shrewsbury 30 

Is seated on the north bank of the Corve, near its confluen 
with the Teme. The Castle, where Milton's Comus was fi: 
performed, and Butler wrote part of Hudibras, and the Churc 
are the principal objects worthy of notice. 

Inns. The Angel, the Crown. 

For a more detailed account of this place, see "Leigi 
Road Book of England." 



MACHYNLLETH. 213 



MACHYNLLETH, 

IN MONTGOMERYSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberystwith 18 London 206 

Dinas Mowddu 12J Mallwyd 10£ 

Dolgelley 16£ Newtown 29 

Llanidloes 19£ Towyn 12 

Machynlleth, pronounced Mahunthleth, is delightfully situ- 

ted upon the western border of the county, near the confluence 

>f the Dulas and the Dovey or Dyfi. It is a place of great 

• mtiquity, and is supposed to have been the Maglona of the 

| ( Komans, where, in the name of Honorius, a lieutenant was 

Rationed to awe the mountaineers. 

[ The streets are wider than those of most towns in North 
\ Wales, and the market-place is well built. The population 
i imounts to about 1600. The inhabitants are chiefly employed 
Ijjn tanning, and in the manufacture of flannels and webs. 

In this town is an old Mansion, built of the thin slaty stone 
;bf the country, in which it is said Owen Glyndwr summoned a 
Darliament or assembly of the nobility and gentry of the prin- 
I npality, in 1402, and accepted from their hands the crown of 
j Wales. At this meeting he narrowly escaped assassination from 
i David Gam, whose courage was so conspicuous at the battle of 
/Agincourt. A part of this building has been converted into 
^tables and a butcher's shop. A spacious doorway is the only 
race of its former grandeur. 
•6 Machynlleth has a Town-hall, built by Sir W. W. Wynne in 
' p83, and a Free School. The principal Inns are, the Eagles, 
jind the Unicorn. The Market is held on Wednesday. 

Near Penalt, about two miles distant, is a place called 
, Cefn Caer, or ridge of the city, upon which formerly stood a 
ircular fortification. At this spot several Roman coins have 
)een found. 

FRWD FAWR, 

pr Running Torrent, is a waterfall about ten miles from 
jMachynlleth and one and a half to the left of the road towards 



214 MAENTWROG. 

Llanidloes. The rock from which the water descends is ven 
lofty, and almost perpendicular. It is adorned with a fev 
shrubs. 

MAENTWROG, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from 

Bala 22 Llanrwst 

Beddgelart < 9 Pont Aberglasslyn 

Dolgelley 18 Tan y Bwlch Inn 

Festiniog 2J Tremadoc 



Harlech 



Is a little village, most delightfully situated at the north-ea; 
extremity of the vale of Festiniog, on a small but rich trac f 
of land, surrounded by woods, which seem to vegetate eve: 
on the bare and most lofty rocks. It derives its name from, 
stone in the churchyard called Maentwrog, or the stone k 
Twrog, a British saint, who lived about the year 610. I 
the Church was buried Mr. Edmund Prys, who translate 
the Welsh version of the Psalms, and assisted Bishop Morga, 
in translating the Bible. He died about 1626. The Tan 
Bwlch Inn is in sight of the village. 

RHAIADYR DU, 

Or the Black Cataract, is situated about two miles from M 
entwrog. It is formed by the rivulet Velenryd, which soc 
after enters the Dwyryd. The water rushes down a stec 
channel for about a hundred yards, and is then thrown wi 
great force over three dark smooth rocks, each of whii, 
has a different direction from the others. The surroundii 
scenery is extremely grand. The depth of the fall is abo 
forty feet. 

In order to reach this waterfall, the tourist must proce< 
along the road towards Harlech for half a mile, cross a sm; 
bridge, and then take a foot-path on the left, which leads i_ 
a wooded valley to the cataract. 



MALLWYD. — MALVERN. 215 



MALLWYD, 

IN MONTGOMERYSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Bala 19 Dinas Mowddu 2 

Cann Office 9 Machynlleth 10J 

Is a small village, situated in a valley watered by the Dovey, 
or Dyfi, at the junction of three mountains, the Arran, Comlin, 
and Moel Dyfi- The Church presents nothing remarkable, 
except the situation of its altar, which was placed in the 
icentre of it, by the incumbent, Dr. Davies, in defiance of 
me orders of Archbishop Laud. The churchyard contains 
('several large yew-trees, one of which measures upwards of 
twenty-two feet in girth, and is forty feet in height. It rises 
jfrom the ground with a single stem, but divides, at the height 
of four feet, into six large branches, which spread over a space 
240 feet in circumference. 

Mallwyd has a good Inn, where post-chaises may be pro- 
cured. 

FALL OF THE DOVEY. 

At Pont Tallwyd, in the vicinity of Mallywd, the Dovey 
makes a beautiful cascade. The river, impatient to rush 
through a narrow rocky channel, foams against a slaty rock in 
the middle of its bed, and then dashes into a pool beneath. 
3 jA.bove is a mountain bridge, of a single arch, adorned with 
vy, while the steep and rough banks are clothed with under- 
wood to the water's edge. 

MALVERN, 

IN WORCESTERSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Ledbury 8 Tewkesbury 14 

London 118 Worcester 8 

This charming spot is frequently visited by the tourist 
in his way to or from Wales. It is famous for its Wells, its 



216 MANORBEER. 

Hills, commanding very extensive views, and its Gothic Church. 
See " Leigh's Road Book of England." 
Inns. The Crown, the Foley Arms. 

MANORBEER, 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Miles. P 

Carew 2 Tenby 6 1 

Pembroke 6 

Manorbeer, or Maenorbyr, is a small village on the sea, 
coast, noted for the ruins of its Castle, which was the birth 
place of Giraldus Silvester, surnamed Cambrensis, the celej 
brated historian of Wales. He was born in the twelfth century, 
became Bishop of St. David's, and was buried in the cathedra 
there, in 1215 The Church, however, of this place contain 
an effigy of him. f, 

The ruins of the Castle are situated on a tongue of lane 
and are surrounded everywhere, except towards the sea, U 
higher ground. The front, towards the land, is defende 
by a moat and a strong tower, beneath which is the entrant 
having on each. side an embattled wall, terminated by circul? 
towers. The distinguishing peculiarity of this castle is i. 
total exemption from all architectural innovation since thi 
time of its foundation. It is a fine specimen of the militar 
architecture of that period. The court-yard is of irreguh 
form, and is nearly surrounded by the remains of rudeh 
constructed habitations. 

This fortress was probably amongst the earliest of those i. 
which the Norman and Flemish settlers established then 
selves. It was long in the possession of the De Barri famil; 
to which Giraldus Cambrensis belonged ; but afterwards b« 
came the property of the crown, and had several possessor, 
till the reign of Elizabeth, when it was granted to Thorn 
ap Owen, of Trefloyne, from whose family it passed, by ma 
riage, into that of Lord Milford. 

The small sandy bay near which the Castle stands is ! 



MARGAM. 217 

exposed to the unbroken force of the Atlantic, that a landing 
can only be effected in fine weather. 

MARGAM, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bridgend 8| Neath 11 

Briton Ferry 7j Pyle Inn 1| 

Margam is a village to the right of the road from Caerdiff 
to Neath, most delightfully situated beneath a magnificent wood 
of oaks, which covers a mountain 800 feet in height, and ex- 
tends over a space more than a mile in circumference. It was 
formerly called Pen Dar, or the Oak Summit, but is supposed 
to have derived its present name from Margan, or Mawr Gan, 
that is, the great head or chief, the son of Caradoc. 

The Abbey of Margam was founded by Robert Earl of 
i'JGloucester, in 1147, for white monks. At the time of the 
fJDissolution, it was sold to Sir Rice Mansel, from whom it has 
ndescended to the Talbot family. The old mansion attached to 
? the Abbey was taken down at the close of the last century; but 
i'lconsiderable remains of the monastic buildings still exist, in- 
t eluding the cloisters and the ruins of the Chapter House. 

The Church is a very spacious edifice, though it is only 

Mlf of that which existed in Monastic times, having been cut 

rpff at the transept. It was repaired at the expense of Mr. 

RTalbot. It contains a curious antique cross, with an inscrip- 

I ion in memory of an abbot, and several monuments of the 

Imansel family. 

| In the street leading to the Church is an ancient Cross, 

'jibout eight feet in height, richly carved and ornamented with 

;ret-work. Two other crosses also are situated at the foot- 

■iridge over the brook, which comes out of the park. 

I The Park, which is about five miles in circumference, is 
i Abundantly stocked with deer, and the pleasure-grounds are 
I veil laid out. It contains an elegant Conservatory, or Green 
: blouse, erected by T. M. Talbot, Esq., in 1787. This building 



218 MENAI BRIDGE. 

is of the Doric order, upwards of 300 feet in length and 80 h 
breadth. It comprises a saloon, containing some fine spec" 
mens of sculpture, an orangery, in which, during winter, th< 
are more than a hundred trees, and a room called the libra 
appropriated to the reception of cork models of some of 
celebrated buildings of antiquity. During summer, the oranj 
trees are removed to the lawn. The establishment of tl 
orangery is said to have originated in accident. A vessel o 
veying some orange and lemon-trees from a Dutch merchs 
as a present to Queen Mary, was shipwrecked on the c< 
and the cargo was purchased by the proprietor of Marj 
The grounds may be seen on application to the gardener. 
Eglwys Nunyd, now a farm-house, about two miles south o, 

Margam, was formerly a nunnery attached to that abbey. , 
Near Margam are very extensive copper works, which wer 

first established about 1770. The Avon, which falls into th; 

Bristol Channel, affords great facility for exporting the metal. 
On the summit of a hill between Margam and Neath is 

square column, about four feet in height, called Maen Llyth h 

rog, or the Lettered Stone, bearing traces of a Latin inscripuoi 

MENAI BRIDGE, 

BETWEEN CAERNARVONSHIRE AND ANGLESEA. 

Distant from MUes. Distant from Miles. 

Bangor 2J Llangefni 9 

Beaumaris 4 London, by Shrewsbury. ... 239 

Caernarvon 6J London, by Chester 254 

Holyhead 21* Monalnn 9* 

This magnificent and unrivalled specimen of national entc- 
prise and skilful architecture was erected from designs 1 
Thomas Telford, Esq., to whom Great Britain was alrea< 
indebted for some of the finest works of human ingenuity. 

The Bridge is situated at the narrowest part of the Mei 
Strait, and now forms the principal means of communicati 
between the counties of Caernarvon and Anglesea, having coi 
pletely superseded Bangor Ferry, and considerably diminish 
the use of the other ferries over the Strait. 






MEtfAI BRIDGE. 219 

j The undertaking was commenced May 1819 ; the first 
■i stone laid by Mr. W. A. Provis, August 10 of the same year; 
j the first suspension chain carried over April 26, 1825; the 
j last July 9, 1825 ; and the bridge opened to the public Jan. 
J 30, 1826, when the Holyhead mail crossed it at half-past one 
in the morning. The total expense incurred by government in 
the erection of the structure was 120,000/. 

This wonderful bridge is built partly of stone and partly of 
iron, and is on the suspension principle. On the Anglesea 
side are four stone arches, and on the Caernarvon side three, 
which exceed in magnitude every work of the kind in Europe. 
They connect the land with the two main piers, which rise 
fifty-three feet above the level of the road, and over the top of 
which the chains are suspended. 

There are sixteen chains, arranged in four rows, and having 
their extremities firmly secured in the rocks at each end of 
the bridge. Two rows are in the centre, about four feet apart, 
jj thus leaving space for the foot-path between the rods which 
•j descend from them, and one is at each side. Each row consists 
of four chains, which are placed one above another, the joints 
of one chain falling on the centre of the links of the next, and 
the pressure upon each equalised by connecting stanchions. 
Each chain consists of a series of links bolted together, and 
each link is formed by five bars placed upon their edges, 
and kept about an inch asunder by the fastenings at each 
end. 

To regulate the contraction or expansion of the iron, in 
winter and summer, self-acting rollers are placed at the summit 
of the suspension piers, over which the chains pass ; and these 
move either way, according to the temperature of the atmo- 
sphere, without causing the least derangement in any part of 
I the work. When the wind is blowing high, a trifling undu- 
jlatory motion is perceptible at the centre of the bridge. 

The road-way is suspended from the chains by vertical 
jrods, one inch square, placed five feet from each other. It 
I consists of two carriage-roads, passing through arches in the 



220 MENAI BRIDGE. 

suspension-piers, and protected on each side by a light lattice- 
work of wrought iron. Between them is the foot-path. 

The form of the road-way between the points of suspension 
is slightly convex, rising gradually from the extremities to a 
height of three feet at the centre, so that it assumes a graceful 
appearance, and resembles an eye-brow curve. The flooring 
of the road is composed of three tiers of planks, well covered 
with pitch, over which granite broken very small has been 
spread, forming a solid body quite impervious to the wet. 
From the main piers to the toll-houses the road falls at the rate 
of one foot in twenty-five. 

At each end of the bridge is an elegant toll-house, where 
specimens of minerals found in the vicinity, inkstands, chimney 
ornaments, &c, made of the stone employed in building the 
bridge, and views of this noble structure, maybe purchased by 
the curious traveller. 

Persons wishing to see the mode in which the chains are 
fastened into the rock must apply at the toll-house on the 
Anglesea side, as the cavern leading to the spot is kept locked, 
and a light is also requisite. 

One of the most eligible situations to view the Bridge is 
from the sea-shore, just below the toll-house on the Anglesea 
side, a short distance south-west of Bangor Ferry Inn. From 
this spot the arches between the main pier and the land assume 
a gigantic appearance. The abutments taper gradually from 
the base to the point from which the arches spring, and exhibit 
no appearance of heaviness, notwithstanding their immense 
mass. The main pier on this side, however, is not so large a 
body of masonry as its gigantic rival on the opposite shore, as 
it rests upon a rock called Ynys-y-Moch, the summit of which 
is six feet above high-watermark. This difference is verj 
evident at low water. 

Beneath the Bridge, and close to one of the main piers, U 
a remarkably fine echo, the following account of which H 
given by Mr. Herschel, in the " Encyclopedia Metropolitana:': 
" The sound of a blow on the pier with a hammer is re- 



MENAI BRIDGE. 221 

J turned in succession from each of the cross beams which sup- 

i port the road-way, and from the opposite pier, at a distance of 

i| 576 feet; and, in addition to this, the sound is many times 
repeated between the water and the road-way. The effect is 

J a series of sounds, which may be thus described : the first 
return is sharp and strong from the road-way overhead ; the 
rattling which succeeds dies away rapidly, but the single re- 
percussion from the opposite pier is very strong, and is suc- 
ceeded by a faint palpitation, repeating the sound at the rate 

1,1 of twenty-eight times in five seconds, and which therefore cor- 
responds to a distance of 184 feet, or very nearly the double 

n\ interval from the road-way to the water. Thus it appears, that 
in the repercussion between the water and road-way, that 

jij from the latter only affects the ear, the line drawn from the 
auditor to the water being too oblique for the sound to diverge 
sufficiently in that direction. Another peculiarity deserves 
especial notice, namely, that the echo from the opposite pier 
is best heard when the auditor stands precisely opposite to the 
middle of the breadth of the pier, and strikes just on that 
point. As it deviates to one or the other side, the return 
is proportionably fainter, and is scarcely heard by him when 
his station is a little beyond the extreme edge of the pier, 
though another person, stationed (on the same side of the 
water) at an equal distance from the central point, so as to 
have the pier between them, hears it well." 

The gray stone employed for the piers and arches of this 
structure was obtained from Penmon, in Anglesea, about seven 
miles from Beaumaris. It is a kind of marble, and is suscep- 
tible of a good polish. 

The tolls paid on crossing are, for a foot-passenger, one 
penny; a single horse, twopence; a carriage with two wheels, 
sixpence; with four wheels and two horses, two shillings; or 
i with four horses, three shillings. 

The first three-masted vessel that passed under this bridge 
! was the Melantho, in her passage from Liverpool to Caernar- 
von, February 1st, 1826. Though her top-masts were nearly 
i as high as those of a frigate, they cleared twelve feet and a half 



222 MENAI BRIDGE. 

below the centre of the road-way. The first vessel that passed 
under the bridge after the navigation was opened, was the St. 
David steamer, from Chester. 

In an account of this stupendous monument of architectural 
skill, the names of Mr. Telford's coadjutors cannot with justice 
be omitted. Mr. W. A. Provis was the resident engineer; Mr. 
J. Provis, prover and examiner of the iron ; Mr. J. Wilsc 
contractor for the stone-work; Mr. Hazeldine, the iron-founde 
and Mr. T. Rhodes, the superintendent engineer of the iron | 
timber-work. 

DIMENSIONS, &C. 

Feet. 
Height of the two main piers from high-water line to the 

level of the road-way •- 100 

Height of the two main piers from the level of the road-way 

to the top ' • • • 53 

Width of each main pier at high-water mark 42J 

Thickness of each main pier at high- water mark 60 

Height of the arches in the main piers, through which the 

carriage-roads pass, reckoning to the spring of the arch- • 15 

Width of ditto 9 

Height of each of the small piers from high-water line to the 

spring of the arches 65 

Span of each of the seven arches 52$ 

Length of each chain from the fastenings in the rock 1714 

Length of the suspended portion of each chain between the 

main piers, forming a curvature 590 

Length of the road-ways suspended between the two main 

piers 550 

Total length of the road-way 1000 

Width of each road- way 12 

Width of the foot-path between the road-ways 4 

Number of chains • • • • 16 

Number of chain-bars in each chain • 935 

Number of chain-plates, which unite the chain-bars, in each 

chain 1122 

Number of bolts in each chain 374 

Total number of vertical rods in the four lines of suspension 795 



The total weight of each chain is 121 tons 299 lbs. 



MENAI BRIDGE. 223 

The total weight of iron-work in the bridge is 2186 tons 
1282 lbs. 

The suspending power of the chains has been calculated at 
j 2016 tons ; and as the whole weight of the suspended portion 
j of the bridge is only 489 tons, there remains an available power 
of 1527 tons. 

THE MENAI STRAIT, 

Over which the bridge is thrown, is a narrow arm of the sea, 
although it bears considerable resemblance to a river. Little 
doubt is entertained that Anglesea was formerly connected with 
the main land by an isthmus near the site of the Menai Bridge ; 
and history informs us that Roman and British cavalry forded 
the strait at low water. The tide at this part flows at the rate 
of five miles an hour, independent of the influence of the wind, 
which adds considerably to its velocity. During the erection 
of the bridge the channel was made considerably deeper and 
wider, so that coasting vessels can now pass through this nar- 
row strait with ease and safety. 

The Menai Strait is about fifteen miles long, and in this 
space there are five ferries : the first, commencing at the south 
extremity, is at Aber Menai ; the second, three miles distant, 
at Caernarvon ; the third, called Moel y Don, is four miles 
north of Caernarvon, and three miles south of the Menai Bridge ; 
the fourth, about a mile north of the bridge, is Garth Ferry, 
which is the nearest to Bangor; and the fifth, which is four miles 
in width at high water, is between Beaumaris and Aber. 

The name Menai is said to denote the Land of Menes, a 
word synonymous with Menus, Manes, and Mannus, recorded 
by Tacitus as the common ancestor of the German nations. The 
Romans gave to both the great islands of the Irish Sea the 
name of Mona, which is still applied to Anglesea. The people 
of the Isle of Man still call their country Manning or Mann. 

Connected with the history of the Menai Strait is the fol- 
lowing remarkable coincidence : — On Dec. 5th, 1664, a boat 
crossing the Strait with eighty-seven passengers was upset, and 
only one person, named Hugh Williams, saved. On the same 



224 MERTHYIt TYDVIL. 

day in 1785, another boat, with sixty persons, overset, and all 
the passengers were drowned except one, also named Hugh 
Williams; and, August 5th, 1820, a third boat, with twenty- 
five passengers, met the same disaster, and all perished except 
one, who, singular to relate, was named Hugh Williams. 



: 



MERTHYIt TYDVIL, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 



* - 



Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberdare 6 Llantrissent 16£ 

Brecon 18J London 173 

Caerdiff 24 Neath 24 

Caerphilly 15| Pont Neath Vaughan 12 

Glyn Neath, or Lamb & Flag 13 Pont y Pridd 12 ' 

Is a large and irregularly-built town, with about 18,000 
inhabitants. It derived its name from Tydvil, the daughter of. 
Brychan, Prince of Brecknockshire, who was murdered or 
martyred here by a party of Saxons, with her father and 
brother. 

Merthyr Tydvil is remarkable for the number and extent of 
its iron-works, the whole of the surrounding district, eight miles 
in length and four in breadth, abounding with iron ore and 
coals. Scarcely any thing can be conceived more awfully 
grand than the descent, on a dark night, into the Vale of 
Merthyr Tydvil, from any of the surrounding hills, where on a 
sudden the traveller beholds, as it were, numberless volcanoes 
breathing out their undulating pillars of flame and smoke; 
while the furnaces below emit through every aperture a vivid 
light, which makes the whole country appear in flames : nor ^ 
do the immense hammers, the wheels, the rolling-mills, the , 
water-works, uniting together their various sounds, add a little 
to the novelty and magnificence of the scene. 

The largest iron-works are the Cyfarthfa, half a mile dis- 
tant, belonging to Messrs. Crawshay. They consist of seven 
blast-furnaces, and two nearer the town, with fineries, air and 
pudding furnaces, mill-forges, &c, to correspond. The blast 



: : 



MERTHYR TYDVIL. 225 

required for the furnaces was formerly produced by a water- 
wheel fifty-two feet in diameter ; but this has been taken down 
some years, and its place supplied by two steam-engines, one 
of eighty horse power and the other of seventy-five. The 
latter is a very beautiful engine, on Boulton and Watt's prin- 
| ciple, constructed on the spot, and furnished with three boilers 
and a condensing apparatus. The blast-cylinder is 100 inches 
in diameter. Some idea may be formed of the force employed, 
from the fact, that the blast impels the flame through the ore 
piled up in the furnaces to a height of sixty feet. 

The rolling-machines, by which the iron is drawn out into 
bars, are put into motion by two water-wheels, one of which is 
thirty-nine and the other twenty feet in diameter. 

The ore and the coals employed in the works are both 
found only a mile distant, and are brought here on rail-roads. 

Each of the furnaces is capable of producing about sixty 
tons of iron per week, and some have been known to produce 
as much as 100 tons; but they are seldom all in use at the 
same time, one at least being generally extinguished and under 
repair. This establishment employs about 4000 workmen. 

The whole process of manufacture may be seen by strangers 
who ask permission for that purpose. 

In a park, on the hill opposite to the iron-works, stands the 
Castle, built by Mr. Crawshay about 1825, from designs by 
Mr. Robert Lugar. It is a quadrangular edifice in the castel- 
lated style, being embattled and flanked by square towers. At 
the side of the principal building are stables on a large scale. 

The Pendarron Iron- Works are situated nearer to the town, 
but are not so extensive as the Cyfarthfa. Near them is a 
handsome mansion belonging to the Pendarron Company. 

The immense collections of cinders and refuse from the ore, 
which are heaped up in the vicinity of the iron-works, will 
! astonish the traveller who views them for the first time. On 
the road towards Neath they absolutely rival in magnitude the 
I neighbouring hills. 

The Canal from Merthyr to Caerdiff was completed in 
; 1798, and is navigable for barges of 100 tons. It is twenty- 
l 2 



226 MERTHYR TYDVIL. 



six miles in length, has forty locks, and is crossed by an equal 
number of bridges. In some places it skirts precipitous 
mountains 300 feet above the Taaf, which flows parallel with . 
it. In order to avoid interruption in the transportation of the i 
produce of the iron- works during dry seasons, when the canal 
is scantily supplied with water, a Rail-way was made in 
1804, for the distance of about ten miles, along which laden 
waggons, constructed for the purpose, are conveyed. 

Merthyr Tydvil possesses a modern-built Church, a Chapel 
of Ease, and numerous Meeting-Houses. The first dissenting 
congregation in Wales was formed here, about 1620, by Vava- 
sour Powell. There is also a Theatre. The three marke 
places are well supplied twice a-week. 

There are two good Inns, the Bush and the Castle. Post 
chaises may be obtained here. 



all) 



CASTLE MORLAIS, 

About three miles north-east of Merthyr Tydvil, was origin 
a British post, and is said to have been the seat of the kings 
Brecon. It was afterwards rebuilt by Gilbert, Earl of Gl 
cester, in the reign of Edward I., and so completely destroy 
by the parliamentary army, that its form and extent cannot n 
be traced. A small keep on the most elevated part of its si 
still remains, and from the top of this there is a good view, 

Quaker's yard 
Is a village seven miles from Merthyr, on the road towa 
Caerdiff. It was so called from a burial-place here belongii 
to the Society of Friends. 

THE BUTE IRON-WORKS 

Are situated on the estate of the Marquis of Bute, in a wik 
and narrow valley, amongst the upper hills, about five mik: 
from Merthyr Tydvil. They are well entitled to a visit fron 
travellers, on account of their peculiar style of architecture 
this being one of the first attempts in this country to exhibit 
architectural taste in the erection of an iron-factory. TV 






MILFORD. 227 

! buildings were begun about 1825, from designs by Dr. J. 
J Mac Culloch, and, when completed, will form a square, afford- 
iil ing an excellent idea of an ancient Egyptian city. They are in 
jj the occupation of Messrs. Forman and Co. 

MILFORD, 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Haverfordwest 7| Pembroke 7 

London 256 

Milford is a neat town, most eligibly situated on one of the 

i finest parts of Milford Haven, occupying a point of land sloping 

on all sides towards the water, by which it is almost surrounded. 

The principal streets run in parallel lines nearly due east and 

west, and are intersected by shorter ones at right angles. 

The whole town is of recent origin, having been commenced 
about 1790, under the superintendence of the Right Honourable 
Ij Charles Greville, who had obtained an Act of Parliament for 
the purpose, and to whom the property had descended on the 
death of Sir W. Hamilton. For some time it gave great pro- 
mise of prosperity. A dock-yard was constructed for building 
ships of war ; the mail-coach was continued from Haverford- 
west, and regular packets were established for the conveyance 
of the mail to Waterford ; and the place was also chosen by 
Mr. Rotch, of Castle Hall, as the rendezvous of his ships from 
the South Sea Whale Fishery, by which much money was cir- 
culated in the town. The appearances of prosperity have, 
however, all declined. The dock-yard has been removed, the 
whalers have sought other ports, and the packet system, though 
conducted with the greatest regularity, has never been much 
encouraged. 

The Church, situated at the eastern extremity of the lower 
street, is a handsome structure, surmounted by a lofty tower, 
which forms a conspicuous object from the water, in sailing up 
the haven. The windows contain stained glass, representing 
the arms of Hamilton, Barlow, and Greville. A vase of red 
porphyry, brought from Egypt by Dr. Pococke, bears an 



228 MILFORD. 

inscription in memory of Lord Nelson ; and here also is pre- 
served the truck of the mainmast of I/Orient, which bore the 
French Admiral's flag at the Battle of the Nile. Sir William i 
Hamilton, who explored the volcanic mountains of Etna and 
Vesuvius, and whose collection of vases adorns the British 
Museum, was buried here in 1803. 

The Custom House is at the lower end of the town, by the 
water side, where there is a good quay. There is a neati 
Market House, at which the market is held on Tuesday and 
Saturday. 

Milford is situated between two creeks, about a mile from 
each other. The upper one, or that to the east, formerly called i 
Prix Pill, is prettily wooded, and has the traces of a castle on 
the summit of a steep hill. This was an important fortress in 
the time of the Civil Wars, and the reduction of it by the 
Parliament forces caused the evacuation of Haverfordwest by 
the Royalists. 

The other creek, to the west, called Priori/ Pill, or Pyle, • 
was so named from a priory founded in the thirteenth century, 
by Adam de Rufe, for monks of the order of St. Martin of' 
Tours, who afterwards became Benedictines. Only small 
portions of this building can now be traced in the surrounding 
cottages. On the opposite bank stands the village of Haking, 
sometimes called Old Milford, between which and Hubber-: 
stone, an Observatory and Mathematical School were esta- 
blished some years ago. 

Inns. The New Hotel, the Pack Horse, and the Nelson. 

Milford maintains a daily communication with Waterford, 
in Ireland, by Steam Packets, which carry the Mail, and per- 
form the voyage in from eight to twelve hours, according to 
the weather. 

Castle Hall, near Milford, was built and inhabited by 
Governor Holwell, celebrated for the account which he pub- 
lished of his imprisonment in the Black Hole at Calcutta. 

MILFORD HAVEN. 

The beauties of this celebrated harbour may be best viewed 






MILFORD. 229 

by taking a boat to Pembroke. It is justly considered one of the 
finest havens in Europe, and is sufficiently capacious and well 
sheltered to hold all the navy of England in perfect security. 
It abounds with good anchorage, and has five bays, ten 

, ( creeks, and thirteen roads. The spring tides rise thirty-six 
feet, and the neap above twenty-six feet. Ships may be out of 
this haven in an hour's time, and in eight or ten hours over at 
Ireland or the Land's End. 

This haven is formed by an immense arm of the sea 
entering the land from the south, and suddenly turning 

ij towards the east. It is about twelve miles in length, reck- 
oning from Dale to Pembroke Ferry, beyond which, however, 
the tide flows up to Carew Castle, and varies in breadth from 
one mile to three. The shores rise into gentle hills, but being 
destitute of wood, and presenting no crags or precipices, they 
have little interest to the lover of the picturesque. The grand 
expanse of water is, however, a fine object, as it exhibits the 
appearance of an inland lake, covered with vessels, and fre- 
quently navigated by ships of the greatest burden. 

On a lofty cliff, at the west end of Milford Haven, above 
the village of Dale, are St. Anne's Lights, which were erected 
in 1800, on an improved plan. They are of great service in 
the navigation of the Irish Channel, in protecting vessels from 
a dangerous rock, called the Crow, visible at low water off 
Lenny Head, which is about five miles distant. 

At Milford Haven, Richard II. landed on his return from 
Ireland ; and here also Henry Earl of Richmond disem- 
barked a short time previous to his obtaining the crown at 
Bosworth Field. In the reign of Henry IV. the French king 
sent aid to Owen Glyndwr, with 1 40 vessels, which anchored 
in Milford Haven. 



230 MOLD. 

MOLD, 

IN FLINTSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caergwrle 6| Holywell 9J 

Caerwys 11 London, by Chester 201 

Chester 12 London, by Shrewsbury • • 194 

Denbigh 15| Northop 3J 

Flint 6i Ruthin 8J 

Hawarden 6 Wrexham 12 

Or Mould, called in Welsh Yr Wyddgrug, or the Con- 
spicuous Barrow, is a small, but neat market-town, situated 
in a pleasant valley watered by the river Alun. It consist; 
principally of one long and spacious street, and contains abou 
8000 inhabitants. 

The Church, erected in the reign of Henry VII., is « 
handsome structure, the walls of which are ornamentec 
towards the upper part with various animals cut in stone 
The tower is more modern, but is built in the same style a 
the other parts of the church. The pillars separating the nav< 
from the aisles are elegant, and between the arches are figure 
of angels holding shields with arms on them, or emblem 
referring to the death of Christ. Amongst the monuments i 
an elegant one to the memory of Richard Davies, Esq., c 
Llanerch ; and against a pillar of the nave, is a singula 
epitaph, composed by Dr. Wynne for himself, and place* : 
there during his life. In the churchyard, Wilson the painte 
was buried in 1788. 

Upon Bailey Hill, a mount on the north side of the towi 
formerly stood a strong Castle, only slight vestiges of whic 
now exist. It is famed in Welsh history for the sieges i 
sustained. Owen Gwynedd destroyed it in 1144, but it wa 
rebuilt, and again demolished by Gruffyd ap Gwenwynwy 
in 1263. 

In the vicinity of Mold are extensive cotton mills, as we 
as coal and lead mines, which are worked with considerabl' 
success. The Market is held on Saturday. 






MOLD. 231 

Inns. The Black Lion and the Leeswood Arms. 

MAES Y GARMON, 

Or the Field of Germanus, about a mile from Mold, is re- 
markable as the scene of the celebrated battle called the 
Victoria Alleluiatica, which took place in Easter week 448, 
when the Britons, headed by Bishops Germanus and Lupus, 
defeated the Picts and Saxons. It is said, that previous to the 
j engagement Germanus had instructed his soldiers to shout the 
: j word Alleluia three times at his command, at which the 
l| enemy fled affrighted, numbers perishing by the sword, and 
3, many being drowned in the adjacent river. To commemorate 
[| this event, a stone column, with an inscription, called the 
Hallelujah Monument, was erected on the spot by N. Griffith, 
Esq., in 1736. 



i About a mile and a half from Mold, on the right of the 

road towards Caergwrle, is a good specimen of the border 

houses on the confines of Wales and Scotland. It is a square 

i, tower of three stories : in the ceiling of the lower story there 

[ still remains a staple, the memorial of the rudeness of former 

i times. During the Civil Wars between the houses of York 

and Lancaster, this place belonged to Reinallt ap GrufFyd ap 

Bleddyn. He and his vassals were constantly quarrelling with 

the people of Chester. A party of the latter came to Mold 

I Fair in 1465 ; a fray ensued ; the Mayor of Chester was taken 

prisoner, and hung by order of Reinallt on the staple in 

his hall. 

MOEL FAMMA, 

About five miles west of Mold, on the right of the road to 
Ruthin, is a conspicuous eminence, rising 1845 feet above the 
level of the sea. It is surmounted by the Jubilee Monument, 
t erected from designs by litr. Harrison, of Lancaster, to com- 
fi memorate the 50th year of the reign of George III. The first 
stone was laid October 25, 1810, by Lord Kenyon, in the 



232 MONA INN. 

presence of more than 3000 persons. The monument is a 
rough stone building, of pyramidal form, about 150 feet in 
height, and 60 feet in diameter at the base. A square block ' 
of stone in the centre marks the division of two counties, 
Denbighshire and Flintshire, and four parishes. From this 
spot may be seen parts of Staffordshire and Derbyshire ; the 
Wrekin, in Shropshire ; Snowdon and Cader Idris, in Wales ; 
and Black Comb, in Cumberland. 

KILKEN, 

About four miles from Mold, on the bridle-road to Denbigh, 
is remarkable for the carved roof of its church, which was 1 
brought from Basingwerk Abbey. In the vicinity are lead' 
mines. II 

On his way to Kilken, the tourist may visit Hesp-alun, 
where the river Alun sinks under ground, and continues its 
subterranean course for half a mile. ! 

PENBEDW HALL 

Is a handsome mansion, five miles from Mold, on the left of 
the road towards Denbigh. In the meadows near it are vestiges 
of a Druidical circle, and a small tumulus. 

MOEL ARTHUR, 

One of the Clwydian Hills, situated above Penbedw Hall, is 
surmounted by the traces of a strong British post. It had two 
deep ditches and dikes on the sides which were accessible, and ; 
was one of the posts which defended the Ordovices from the 
incursions of the Romans. 

MONA INN, 

IN AKGLESEA. 



Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bangor 12 Menai Bridge . . 9J 

Holyhead 12 

Mona, or Caea Mon Inn, is a commodious hotel, erected 






MONMOUTH. 233 

ia few years ago, on the New Road from the Menai Bridge to 
jHolyhead. Post horses may be obtained here. 

About nine miles beyond the Mona Inn, the Mail Road to 
Holyhead crosses the Stanley Sands, by means of an embank- 
ment 1300 yards in length, and averaging 16 feet in height. 

MONMOUTH, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Abergavenny 16£ Pontypool 20 

Chepstow 15J Ragland 8 

Goodrich - 6 Ross I0J 

Hereford 18 Tintern Abbey 10J 

London, by Gloucester 127 Usk 14 

London, by Bristol 151 

Supposed to be the site of the Blestium of Antoninus, is 
lelightfully situated in a gently undulating valley, surrounded 
by high hills. It occupies a sort of peninsula, formed by the 
confluence of the Wye and the Monnow, so that it is nearly 
encircled by the two rivers. 

The town was formerly surrounded by walls and a moat, 
mly small portions of which are now visible. The Monnow is 
he only one of the four gates which remains entire : it is a 
:urious vestige of antiquity. 

The Town Hall, which is built over the Market Place, is a 
landsome edifice. On the outside is an ill-executed statue, 
nth. this inscription underneath : — " Henry V. born at Mon- 
nouth, August 9, 1 387/' The charter was granted to the town 
n the birth of this prince. 

The remains of the Castle stand upon an eminence to the 
[orth of the Monnow, but exhibit little appearance of their 
prmer extent and magnificence. A British fortress is said to 
;ave existed here previous to the Roman Conquest, and to 
save been occupied by the Saxons. It is supposed to have 
jeen rebuilt by John, Baron of Monmouth, who, in 1257, 
|esigned it to Prince Edward, afterwards Edward I. In 
|265, Simon Earl of Leicester besieged Gilbert Earl of Glou- 



234 MONMOUTH. 



cester, and levelled the castle with the ground. It was, how 
ever, rebuilt, and devolved to John of Gaunt, whose son 
Henry of Bolingbroke, was afterwards Henry IV., dur 
whose reign this fortress became the birth-place of Henry 
The room where it is said he was born is part of an uj 
story, now in ruins. Adjoining it are the remains of anot 
large apartment, supposed to have been the baronial 
A circular staircase-tower, which led to the grand aj 
ments, still exists, and portions of the castle may be trace< 
amongst the neighbouring stables and outhouses. 

A large mansion was built in 1673, on a part of th 
castle site, and some of the old materials were employed 
This was occasionally the residence of the Beaufort family, t^ 
whom it still belongs, and was afterwards occupied as a ladiej 
school. 

St. Mary's Church is a handsome edifice, distinguished t 
a spire rising 200 feet from the foundation. It was rebuilt i. 
1740, with the exception of the tower and lower part of tl' 
spire, and occupies the site of the Priory church. 

The Priory was founded by Withenoc de Monmouth, i 
the reign of Henry I., for Benedictine monks, and suppress^ 
at the Dissolution. Traces of it are visible to the north 
St. Mary's Church. The Priory House contains an apartme 
which tradition asserts was the library of the celebrate 
Geoffrey of Monmouth, who lived about the middle of tl- 
twelfth century, and composed a well-known history of Bi 
tain, abounding with legendary tales. 

St. Thomas's Church, without the town, at the foot of t. 
Monnow Bridge, is a curious old structure, ascribed partly i 
the Saxons and partly to the Britons. The mouldings of sor 
of the arches are worthy of notice. 

The County Gaol, by the side of the Monnow, was built 
the end of the last century, on Mr. Howard's plan. Mo 
mouth also possesses a Free School and Alms House, found 
by William Jones, in the reign of James I. Mr. Jones wa: : 
native of Newland; but being unable to pay ten groa 
quitted this parish, went to London, engaged himself as por 



MONMOUTH. 235 

[ifo a Hamburgh merchant; afterwards became a factor, and 
iftcquired a large fortune. In order to try the generosity of his 
native place, he disguised himself, and solicited relief, which 
vas refused, and he was referred to Monmouth. There he 
,net with a more favourable reception, and making himself 
known, acknowledged his gratitude by the foundations just 
mentioned. 

Monmouth has no manufactures, but in the vicinity are 
Iron and tin-works. A chapel still exists, which once belonged 
j:o the makers of Monmouth caps, mentioned in Shakspeare's 
tienry V. The manufacture was removed to Bewdley. 
>! The walks in the vicinity of the town are pleasant, par- 
ticularly Chippenham Meadow, which is a favourite evening 
promenade. 

The population is about 4500. The Market is held on 
Saturday. The principal Inns are, the Beaufort Arms and the 
[King's Head. 

Monmouth is much frequented by parties making the tour 
jof the Wye, as it is about half-way between Ross and Chep- 
stow. — See Wye. 
J 

THE KYMIN, 

'About two miles and a half from Monmouth, is a lofty emi- 
nence, rising from the banks of the Wye, on the Glouces- 
tershire side, and surmounted by a rich wood, called Beaulieu 
Grove, which is intersected by several walks. At the top is a 
Naval Monument, now going to decay, erected to com- 
'memorate the victories of English seamen. Around the frieze 
are medallions of eminent British Admirals. The view from 
ilthis spot extends to a circumference of nearly 300 miles. A 
circular pavilion has been erected here for the accommodation 
jof visitors, and is much frequented in summer time. 

J THE BUCKSTONE, 

'iWhich is seen from the Kymin, towards the south-east, not a 
J !mile distant, is a famous rocking-stone of the Druids. In 
'jform it resembles an irregular pyramid inverted, and standing 



236 MONMOUTH. 

upon its apex. Its circumference at the upper part is abou 
fifty-four feet, and at the point on which it rests about fou 
feet. It is about ten feet in height. At the eastern corner is \ 
rude arch, which is supposed to have been the little chape 
where the Druid of the stone placed himself. Above the stow 
is a rock basin, into which it is supposed libations of blood 
wine, honey, or oil, were formerly poured. 

The view from the Buckstone is remarkably beautiful 
consisting of wood, river, mountain, and precipice, grouped if 
the most picturesque manner. 

TROY HOUSE, 

About half a mile from Monmouth, to the right of the roas 
towards Chepstow, is situated near the little river Troth) 
from which it derives its name. It was formerly a seat of th 
Herbert family, but now belongs to the Duke of Beauforl 
The present mansion was built from designs by Inigo Jones 
and contains noble apartments, adorned with family portraits 
Amongst the antiquities preserved here is a curious oa: 
chimney-piece brought from Ragland Castle, and carved wit 1 
scriptural subjects. Here also are kept the bed in whic' 
Henry V. was born, his cradle, and the armour which he i 
said to have worn at Agincourt, although its appearance is c 
more recent date. The gardens were formerly celebrated fo 
their beauty, but are now converted into orchards. 

WONASTOW, OR WYNASTOW HOUSE, 

On the left of the road to Ragland, a mile from Monmouth, i 
conjectured to have been built about the reign of Henry VI 
It was once the residence of a branch of the Herbert family 
but has been divided in modern times into distinct habitations' 

TREOWEN, 

Now a farm-house, two miles from Monmouth, on the right c 
the road to Ragland, was formerly a splendid mansion, bull 
from designs by Inigo Jones. 



MONTGOMERY. 237 



PENALT CHURCH, 

3n the Monmouthshire bank of the Wye, one mile and a half 
rom Monmouth, is situated on the side of a woody eminence, 
behind which is a common. On this common is a large oak, 
vith a stone seat at its foot. A singular custom formerly 
Drevailed here. When a funeral passed by, the corpse was 
placed on this stone, and the company sung a psalm; an 
violent continuation of a Druidical rite. 

MONTGOMERY, 

IN MONTGOMERYSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Miles, 

Bishop's Castle 9 Newtown ° 9 

London, by Worcester • • • • 169 Shrewsbury 22 

London, by Shrewsbury • • 174 Welsh Pool 8 

The capital of the county, is a neatly built town, containing 
( ibout 1100 inhabitants, many of whom are persons living in 
etirement on small independent fortunes. It is very plea- 
santly situated on a gentle ascent, behind which is a steep hill 
:overed with beautiful plantations. 

On the summit of this eminence, which is called Town 
nil, formerly stood the Castle ; but from the little that re- 
nains, it is difficult to ascertain its original form. The site 
ommands a charming view of the Vale of Montgomery, 
>ounded by the Shropshire hills. 

The Castle was built in the time of William I. During 
he Civil Wars it was garrisoned for the king by Lord Herbert, 
if Cherbury, who surrendered on the approach of the Par- 
iament forces. The Royalists attempted to retake it, but were 
ompletely defeated. It was afterwards dismantled by order 
I !>f the Government. 

|J On a hill near the Castle site are some remains of an 
i,pimense British post, which appears to have been defended 
|»y four great ditches. 
: j Montgomery derives its name from Roger de Montgomery, 



238 NANT FRANGON. 

Earl of Shrewsbury, who, in 1092, took this place, then callei 
Trevaldwin, or Baldwin's Town, from a lieutenant of that nam 
in the service of William I. 

The Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is a cruciforr 
structure, containing several monuments, one of which is iii 
memory of Richard Herbert, Esq., the father of the celebrate'^ 
Lord Herbert, of Cherbury, who was bom at the Castle. 

The other public buildings are, the Guildhall and th 
County- Gaol. The Market-day is Thursday. 

Inn. The Dragon. 

MYNYDD, OR CEFN DIGOLL, 

About five miles from Montgomery, is celebrated as havin, 
been the spot where, in 1294, the last contested battle we 
fought in defence of the liberties of the Principality. Tt 
Welsh were commanded by Madoc, the cousin of Llewelyn. ■■ 

LYMORE LODGE, 

About half a mile from Montgomery, on the left of the road t 
Bishop's Castle, is a seat belonging to Earl Powis. 

NANT FRANGON, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 

Or the Vale of Beavers, so called from having been frequente: 
by these animals, is a most romantic valley, or rather cbasr 
about four miles in length and one in breadth, situated betwee- 
Capel Curig and Bangor, and extending from the west end it 
Ogwen Lake to the Llandegai slate quarries. The HolyheE. 
road passes through its whole extent: it is conducted lJ 
terraces, at a great elevation above the Ogwen, and benea 
the impending precipices of the great Carnedd David, tl' 
summit of which rises 3427 feet above the level of the sea. 

On each side of this awful valley the mountains rise a 
ruptly to an immense height, presenting fantastic piles of bol ' 
rugged, and barren rocks, which afford a fine contrast to th 
verdure in the glen below, where the river Ogwen roars alor 
its craggy channel, and leaps over the shattered fragmen 



NANT FRANGON. 239 

Itvhich from time to time have been hurried down the declivity. 
tJFew scenes can be compared with this in grandeur. 

The mountains at the upper or south-east end of the valley- 
form a noble group. On each side, the chasm appears guarded 
I m a lofty conical rock. Trivaen, or the Three-Headed, is seen 
iibn the right. This mountain derived its name from three tall 
' Atones which stood on its summit ; there are now, however, but 
I two, which are about fourteen feet high, and at a distance look 
; }ike two men. Braich Du, or the Black Arm, appears on the 
I left, while Glyder Bach and Glyder Fawr, with other moun- 
tains, fill up the distance, and apparently close the vale. 

At the extremity of Nant Frangon, close to Ogwen Lake, 
I'iare the 

,7, 

]! FALLS OF BENGLOG, 

nWhere the river Ogwen rushes down a precipice about 200 
I jfeet in height, in three cataracts, following each other in imme- 
Jdiate succession. In order to view them, the tourist must leave 
\ (the road and descend into the hollow, climbing over a rugged 
rock to the lowest, which is also the largest of the three. Here 
the stream roars in one sheet of foam down an almost perpen- 
dicular rock. A rocky steep leads to the second fall, which is 
between two perpendicular rocks. The third cataract is not so 
majestic as either of the lower ones. These falls are difficult of 
access, but the trouble will be amply compensated for by the 
*jbeauty of the scenery. The surrounding mountains are most of 
lithem precipitous, and the tops of many are edged with pointed 
ijrocks. 

Benglog, or the Scull, is the name given to the pass from 
?IOgwen Lake into the valley of Nant Frangon. It probably 
^received this appellation from being at the head or extremity of 
: the valley. The Falls are about ten miles from Bangor and 
lc jfour and a half from Capel Curig. 

:| In a dark hollow of the mountains, just above the Falls of 
k\ Benglog, is Llyn Idwal, so called from the murder of a young 
jjprince of that name. It is surrounded by stupendous perpen- 
ijdicular rocks, amongst which is seen an immense gap called Twll 



240 



NARBERTH. — NEATH. 



Du, or the Devil's Kitchen, extending 600 feet in length, 10( 
in depth, and only six in width. I 

NARBERTH, 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. ' 

Caermarthen 22 Llaugharne 15 

Carew 10 London 238 

ColdBlow 2 Pembroke 13 , 

Haverfordwest 101 Tenby 9| 

Is a small town of great antiquity, situated on a rivuk 
which runs into the Cleddau, and containing about 2500 inha: 
bitants. It has the ruins of a Castle, which have a picturesque 
appearance. The Market-day is Thursday. — Inn. The Whit 
Hart. 

LLANHAUADEN OR LLAWADEN CASTLE. 

The ruins of this fortress are situated about three miles fror 
Narberth, in a picturesque valley watered by the Cleddau. ] 
is supposed to have been built by Thomas Beke in the thii 
teenth century. Beneath the hill on which the ruins are siti 
ated is the Church of Llanhauaden. 



NEATH, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Brecon, by Pont Neath Llandilo Vawr 22 

Vaughan 32 London 196 

Bridgend 183 Margam 11 

Briton Ferry 2\ Pont Neath Vaughan 12 

Caermarthen, by Swansea • • 34f Pyle Inn 125 



Glyn Neath, or Lamb & Flag 11 Swansea 



Is a market-town with about 3000 inhabitants, situated o 
the east bank of the river Neath, over which is a handsoir 
stone Bridge. Though surrounded by beautiful scenery, tr 
town itself has not a very pleasant appearance, the situatic 



NEATH. 241 

being low, the streets narrow, and the buildings generally old 
and ill-built. 

The Church, dedicated to St. Thomas, is a handsome struc- 
ture, with an embattled tower ; and the Town-hall is a commo- 
dious building. 

The Castle, now an inconsiderable ruin, was rebuilt in 1091, 
by Richard de Granville, a Norman, from whom are descended 
the noble families of Granville Marquess of Bath, Granville 
iJDuke of Buckingham, and Lord Grenville. 
| The ruins of the Abbey are situated about a mile from the 
i town, on the left of the road to Swansea. They have a pictu- 
resque appearance, though the walls are blackened by the fires 
Ljcontinually burning at the adjacent iron and copper-works. 
This Abbey was founded for Cistercians, by Richard de Gran- 
ville and Constance his wife, who gave their chapel in the 
Castle, with the tithes belonging to it, and a large tract of land 
to endow it. At the Dissolution it contained only eight monks. 
| In this building the unfortunate Edward II. secreted himself 
iin 1326, when prevented by contrary winds from escaping to 
ilreland. He was soon, however, discovered, and confined in 
Kenilworth Castle. 

Near the Abbey ruins are extensive Blast-Furnaces and 
Iron-Foundries, as well as large Copper- Works. The copper 
ore is chiefly brought from Cornwall and Wicklow. Neath 
also possesses a Factory for the production of sugar-of-lead, 
[vitriol, and alum ; and in the vicinity are Coal-Mines, which 
contribute greatly to the prosperity of the manufactories. 

The Neath Canal, constructed about 1795, extends up the 

alley for twelve miles, passing through a district abounding 

'iwith coals, limestone, iron -ore, &c. About five miles from 

JNeath it is carried over the river by an aqueduct of five arches. 

The Market-days are Wednesday and Saturday. The chief 
linn is the Ship and Castle. 



GNOLL OR KNOLE CASTLE, 

lAbout half a mile north from Neath, on the east side of the 
ijriver, is a handsome mansion, which was built by the late Sir 



242 NEATH. 

Herbert Mackworth. It stands on the summit of a hill, and 
commands fine views of the river and vale of Neath, the Mum- 
bles, Swansea, and the sea. In the grounds is an artificial 
waterfall. 

MELINCOURT 

Is a village delightfully situated on the east side of the Vale of 
Neath, five miles to the north of the town. It is noted for a ' 
beautiful Cascade formed by the river Cledaugh or Cleddau, 
which is here precipitated about eighty feet. The adjacent' 
crags are richly clothed with foliage, and as an enclosed scene 
it may be considered unrivalled. Near the Fall are blast- 1 
furnaces, foundries, &c. 

CADOXTON, OR ST. CADOc's TOWN. 

This village is situated on the west side of the Vale oi 
Neath, one mile and a half north of the town. The Church is. 
remarkable for a singular epitaph detailing the whole genealogy 
of the Williams family, and affording a striking corroboration 
of the proverb, " As long as a Welsh pedigree." In the church- 
yard is a tombstone erected to commemorate the murder of < 
young woman, for which a man was tried several times anc 
acquitted. 

ABERDYLAIS, OR ABERDULAS, OR ABERDILLIS, 

Is also situated on the west side of the Vale of Neath, about ? 
mile north of Cadoxton. Here there is a forge, where crude o 
pig-iron is worked into bars. 

At Aberdylais Mill, in the vicinity, is a Waterfall of con 
siderable size : the access to it is not very easy, but th* 
neighbouring peasantry are always ready to guide the curiou 
traveller. 

Still further up the Vale of Neath are several gentlemen' 
seats, amongst which Rheola, the residence of Edward Vaughar 
Esq., appears conspicuous. 



NEVYN. — KEWBOROUGH, &C. 243 

NEVYN, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant/rom Miles. 

Caernarvon 21 Pwllheli 7 

Criccieth 13 

Is a small town, with about 1000 inhabitants and an indif- 
ferent inn. It is only remarkable as the place where Edward I., 
in 1284, celebrated his conquest of Wales by tournaments, &c. 
The Market is held on Saturday. 

About two miles west of Nevyn is Forth yr Llyn, which is 
supposed to have been frequented by the Romans. 

Both these small fishing-towns have piers, which protect 
vessels during the gales that frequently blow from the south- 
ward. The herrings taken on this coast are highly esteemed, 
and are double the size of those caught in Cardigan Bay, on 
the other side of the promontory of Llyn. The former are 
known by the name of Nevyn, and the latter of Criccaeth 
herrings. 

NEWBOROUGH, 

IN ANGLESEA, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberfraw 7 Menai Bridge- 12 

Caernarvon ••• < 5 

Derived its name from having been created a new borough 
by Edward I. It once possessed a palace belonging to the 
princes of North Wales, but is now an insignificant place with 
not more than 700 inhabitants, who are employed in fishing 
and rope-making. 

NEWCASTLE IN EMLYN, 

IN CAERMARTHENSHIRE, 
Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 



Aberaeron 22 Kilgerran» 

Caermarthen 20 Lampeter • 

Cardigan 10 London. •• 



Or Dinas Emlyn, is delightfully situated on the banks of 



244 NEW PASSAGE INN. 

the Teivy, partly in Caermar then shire and partly in Cardigan- 
shire. It formerly possessed a Castle, which was captured by 
Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, rebuilt by Sir Rice ap Thomas, and 
was held by the Royalists during the Civil War. The ruins 
of this fortress occupy a picturesque situation, and com- 
mand a fine prospect. The Teivy enters the valley from the 
north-east, and flows almost in a straight line till it arrives 
nearly underneath the castle; it then makes a sudden turn, 
and, instead of winding immediately round the base of the 
hill, darts back again for a considerable way, in a course 
parallel with its first channel. It then sweeps round majesti- J 
cally in front, leaving a meadow between it and the castle, and 
comes down again on the opposite side, with features of a dif- ' 
ferent character. Here its bed becomes impeded by rocks, > 
through which it furrows a deep, tortuous, and noisy course, 
and rolls with much impetuosity under the venerable bridge. - 
Thus the castle is almost surrounded with a magnificent natural ' 
moat. 

Inn. The Salutation. 



NEW PASSAGE INN, 

IN GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

BlackRocklnn 2§ Bristol 10| 

This Inn is situated on the east bank of the Severn, and 
commands a fine view of Monmouthshire on the opposite 
shore. The traveller who intends to cross the river here should 
inquire at Bristol as to the state of the tide, or he may be 
detained some time. A steam-vessel is, however, occasionally 
employed here. 



NEWPORT. 245 



IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 



Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

^Caerdiff = 11J London, by Bristol 147 

Caerleon 3 London, by Oxford 145 

Caerphilly ••• 12 Pontypool 8 

Caerwent 11 Usk 8 

Chepstow 16j 

Is a flourishing market-town, with about 2000 inhabitants, 
situated on the west bank of the Usk, by means of which, and 
of the canals which communicate with it, it carries on a con- 
siderable trade, particularly in iron and coals. Over the river 
is a stone Bridge of five arches, built by Mr. David Edwards, 
the son of the Edwards who built the famous Pont y Pridd. 
It cost 10,000^. The central arch is seventy feet in the span, 
and the others are sixty-two feet each. The height from low- 
water-mark to the top of the parapet is fifty-seven feet. This 
bridge was erected in 1800. 

The Castle stands on the brink of the river, very near to 
the Bridge. It was apparently erected for the defence of the 
passage of the river, towards which it has three strong towers ; 
but towards the town there is only a common wall, without 
any flanks or defences. In form it is a parallelogram, measuring 
about 138 feet by 96, the greatest length being from north to 
south, parallel with the river. Some of the windows still 

I remain : they were in the pointed style, richly ornamented. 
This Castle was erected by Robert, Earl of Gloucester, the 
natural son of Henry I., and, after passing into the possession 

j of several noble families, was seized by Henry VIII. 

Near the Castle was the Roman military way of Julia 
Strata; and at a short distance there is a ford, where tradition 
asserts that Henry II. crossed the river; Merlin Sylvester, the 
prophet of Wales, having predicted that the Welsh should be 
conquered by a prince of freckled complexion who should pass 
that ford. 

The Church, dedicated to St. Woolas, exhibits the architec- 



246 NEWPORT. 

ture of several periods: the nave, which formed the original 
edifice, was erected prior to the settlement of the Normans, \ 
but the chancel and aisles are more modern. The west door- 
way, formerly the principal entrance, is a curious specimen of 
Saxon architecture. The church contains several ancient monu- 
ments, but its chief ornament is the lofty square tower built by 
Henry III. in gratitude for the attachment of the townsmen to' 
his cause. The Churchyard affords a fine prospect of the sur- 
rounding country. At the extremity of the town are seen the 
ruins of the Castle, watered by the Usk. The wild mountains 
about Pontypool are finely contrasted by the fertile tract of 
Wentloog and Caldecot levels ; and the Bristol Channel is 
seen, backed by the hills of Somersetshire. 

On the banks of the river, a short distance below the Bridge, 
are the remains of a Monastery of preaching friars. 

During the summer a Steam Vessel goes daily to Bristol, 
generally performing the voyage in about four hours. The 
time of starting is regulated by the tide. 

The Market-day is Saturday. — Inns. The King's Head,, 
the West Gate House. 

MALPAS CHURCH, 

About one mile and a half from Newport, is a small but curious 
specimen of Saxon or Anglo-Norman architecture. The arch 
of the south window is richly carved. 



On the road towards Caerphilly, one mile and a half distant, is 
a large encampment, supposed to be Roman. It occupies an 
eminence near the Ebwy, in Tredegar Park. 

TREDEGAR PARK, 

The seat of the Morgan family, is situated three miles from 
Newport, on the road to CaerdifF. It is a large quadrangulai 
mansion, erected in the time of Charles II. The apartmentf- 
are adorned with numerous pictures. One of the rooms, forty- 
two feet long and twenty-seven broad, is said to have beer 



1 



NEWPORT. — NEWTON. 247 

floored and wainscotted from a single oak. The park contains 
a great number of fine forest-trees, and the scenery is enlivened 
by the river Ebwy. 

GOLDCLIFF 

Is a promontory on the Bristol Channel, two miles from New- 
port. It is so called from a glittering yellow mica incorporated 
with the rock, which the neighbouring peasantry imagine to be 
gold. At this place are vestiges of a Priory founded by Robert 
de Chandos, in 1113, for Benedictine monks. 

NEWPORT, 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Cardigan 10J Kilgerran 8 

Fishguard 7 London 242 

Is a small fishing-town on the river Nevern, which, at a 
short distance, falls into the Bristol Channel. Upon a knoll 
above the town are vestiges of a Castle which was built by the 
Anglo-Norman settlers in 1215, but afterwards destroyed by 
Llewelyn. 

In Nevern churchyard, two miles from Newport, on the 
road to Cardigan, is the shaft of a stone cross about thirteen 
feet in height; and dXJPenire 'Evan, in this parish, is a Druid- 
ical circle 150 feet in circumference, surrounding a very large 
cromlech. 

NEWTON, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distant from' Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bridgend 7 Margam • .. 7 

Ewenny Priory 5 Pyle 4 

Is a small village, which has risen to the rank of a watering- 
place since the beginning of the present century. The beach 
« is well sheltered by limestone cliffs, and bathing-machines are 



248 NEWTOWN. 

kept here. The sands, however, drift considerably, and are 
not well adapted for promenading. 

NEWTOWN, 

■■ 

IN MONTGOMERYSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant fi-om Miles, j' 

Bishop's Castle 16 London 178 

Builth 29 Machynlleth 29 

Llanfair 10 Montgomery 9 

Llanidloes 13 Welshpool 13} 



Or Tre Newydd, as it is called in Welsh, is a neat town, 
pleasantly situated in a valley, and almost surrounded by the 
Severn, the banks of which are bounded by gentle hills partially 
covered with wood. Several woollen manufactories are carried 
on here. 

The Church is an ancient structure, containing a font and 
curiously-carved screen, which are said to have been brought 
from the Abbey of Cwm Hir, in Radnorshire. The altar-piece 
was painted by Dyer the poet. There is also a small monu- 
ment in memory of Sir John Pryce, who resided at Newtown 
Hall in the vicinity, the ancient seat of the Pryce family, which 
was regularly descended from one of the royal tribes of Wales. 
Sir John was very eccentric. He married three wives, and 
kept the first two after their death embalmed, one on each side 
of his bed ; the third, however, refused the knight the honour 
of her hand till he had removed her defunct rivals to a proper 
place of interment. 

The Market is held on Tuesday. — Inns. The Bear's Head, 
the Red Lion. 

CASTEL DOL FORWYN, 

Or the Castle of the Virgin's Meadow, formerly stood on the 
west bank of the Severn, about four miles from Newtown, upon 
the summit of a lofty hill, from which there is a good view. 
Very slight remains of it now exist. It was erected in the 
eleventh century, but the origin of its name is unknown. 



■ 



NORTHOP. — OSWESTRY.' 

NORTHOP, 

IN FLINTSHIRE, 



VERTON. 



249 



Distantfrom 

Flint 

Hajyarden 



Miles. 

• 3 

• 5 



Distantfrom Miles. 

Holywell 6J 

Mold 3* 



Or Llan Eurgain, is a village of considerable size. It is 

supposed to have derived the former name from being situated 

north of Hope. In the vicinity are several mines of lead and 

coal. The Church has a handsome Tower, and there are two 

'Schools. The Market is held on Saturday. — Inn. The Lion. 

At Halkin, about three miles from Northop, on the road to 

;i Holywell, is an elegant villa, in the Gothic style, belonging 

r jto Earl Grosvenor. It was built under the direction of Mr. 

IGummow. 

OSWESTRY, 



IN SHROPSHIRE, 



Distant from 

Chirk 

Ellesmere 

Llanfyllin 



Miles. 
• 5| 



14 

12* 

Llanrhaiadyr yn Mochnant 13 



Distant from Miles. 

Llan y Mynach 53 

London 171 

Ruabon 10 

Shrewsbury 18 



Welsh Pool- 



15| 



Is situated near the Ellesmere Canal. It contains nothing 
to interest the traveller ; but about three miles distant, on the 
road towards Ellesmere, are the ruins of Whittington Castle. 

Inns. The Foxes, the Cross Keys. 



Distant from 

Bangor Iscoed 

Ellesmere 



OVERTON, 

IN FLINTSHIRE, 



Miles. Distant from 

• 3 Ruabon 

■ 5 Wrexham 



Is a pleasant village, situated upon a small eminence over- 
looking the Dee. In the churchyard are several fine yew- 

' 'trees. 

M2 



250 OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE. 



OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distant/torn Miles. Distant from Mile*. 

Pennarth Castle 4 Swansea * 4 

Penrice 8 

Is a majestic ruin, situated on the brow of an eminence 
surrounded by broken limestone cliffs, on the west shore of 
Swansea Bay. Its principal walls are little injured, and most 
of the apartments may still be easily distinguished. The 
general figure is polygonal ; the ramparts are lofty, but not ; 
flanked with towers except at the entrance, which appears to : 
have been protected by a portcullis and double gates. This 
Castle is supposed to have been built by the Earl of Warwick,. 
in the reign of Henry I. It now belongs to the Duke of 
Beaufort. > 

To the south of the Castle is the village of Oystermouth, : 
pleasantly situated on the shore of Swansea Bay, beneath a 
lofty limestone rock, the headland of which, called the Mumble 
Point, stretches far into the bay, and affords a safe anchorage . 
to vessels. On the head of the Promontory is a Light-House,- 
which is much visited by parties from Swansea. 

In the rock beneath the Light-House is a large cavern: 
called Bob's Cove, which may be visited at low water. 

The village is chiefly inhabited by fishermen, who are 
employed in dredging for oysters in the adjacent bay. The 
Old Mermaid is the principal house of accommodation for 
travellers. 

There is a railway from Oystermouth to Swansea, on which 
a car daily carries passengers. 

Caswell Bay, about one mile and a half west of Oyster- 
mouth, is noted for the character of the cliffs, which are 
hollowed into excavations of various shapes and dimensions 
by the violence of the sea. It is also famous for the beauty 
and number of its shells. Of course low water is the best time 
to visit it. 



PEMBROKE. 251 



PEMBROKE, 



IN PEMBROKESHIRE. 



Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Carmarthen 32J Manorbeer 6 

Carew 4J Milford 7 

ColdBlow 12 Narberth 13 

Haverfordwest 10 Tenby 10 

London 248 

Pembroke, the county town, is so called from Pembroch, 
the Head of the Foam, or, as some suppose, from Penfro, a 
cape or promontory, being situated upon a neck of land pro- 
jecting into an arm of Milford Haven. It consists principally 
of one long and spacious street, running from east to west, with 
a short cross street leading towards the north. It has been 
strongly fortified. The ruined walls extending along the north 
and south sides of the town still remain, and terminate at the 
rocky point on which the noble ruins of the Castle are situated. 
These walls were strengthened by towers, and secured by their 
position on the edge of the two creeks of Milford Haven, which 
\ were flooded at high water. The east entrance to the town was 
i rendered strong by art. 

Few ruins in the kingdom are entitled to a greater share of 
admiration than Pembroke Castle. Its two most conspicuous 
sides are surrounded by water, and rise from the edge of a steep 
though not lofty rocky bank. Its general form is adapted to 
the irregularities of its craggy foundation, and its walls are 
connected by clusters of towers, of different elevation and great 
variety of form. It is seen to the greatest advantage on 
approaching by water, and coming up with the tide. 

The architecture is a mixture of the Norman with the early 
Gothic. The castle was divided into an inner and outer ward : 
the former including the keep and the state apartments, and 
the latter the inferior buildings and offices for the use of the 
garrison. 

The keep or principal tower is a building of beautiful 
proportions, slightly tapering towards its summit, the stone 



252 PEMBROKE. 

roof of which still remains. It was formerly divided into four 
stories. The walls are fourteen feet in thickness, and enclose 
a space twenty-five feet in diameter : their circumference at 
the base is 163 feet; the height to the roof is 75 feet. 

A little to the north of the Keep are the remains of the 
Chapel, and adjoining it is a small apartment in which Henry 
VII. is said to have been born, in 1457. Beneath the Chapel, 
and formerly connected with it by a winding staircase, is a 
remarkable cavern called the Wogan, a large and nearly 
circular excavation, from sixty to seventy feet in diameter, with 
a wide mouth towards the water. 

The Castle was founded, according to Caradoc, by Arnulph, 
son of the Earl of Shrewsbury, in 1094; but Giraldus fixes the 
time of its erection in the reign of Henry I. It is celebrated 
for the gallant defence which Colonels Langhorne, Powell, and 
Poyer, made against the Parliament forces in 1648. Cromwell, 
however, at length compelled them to surrender, and dismantled 
the castle. 

There are two churches, both of which are ancient. St. 
Michael's, at the east end of the town, is of Norman architec- 
ture; and St. Mary's, near the centre, in the pointed style. 
In the suburb of Monkton, at the west end of Pembroke, are 
some scattered remains of a Prion'-, founded in 1093. 

Pembroke has a Town-hall and a Custom-house. There 
are about 5000 inhabitants. The Market is held on Wednes- 
day and Saturday. 

Inns. The Green Dragon, the Golden Lion. 

PEMBROKE DOCKYARD 

Is within two miles of the town. It occupies about sixty-five 
acres, enclosed by a strong and lofty wall, on the outside of 
which a village of considerable size has sprung up. This dock- 
yard was established about 1815. Strangers are allowed to 
visit it, on entering their address in a book at the gate. 

LAMPHEY, OR LLANFEY, 

A village three miles from Pembroke, on the road towards 






PEMBROKE. 253! 

Tenby, is remarkable for the ruins of an episcopal palace, 
which formerly belonged to the See of St. David's, and in the 
reign of Henry VIII. passed into the possession of the Devereux 
family. The great Lord Essex resided here. These remains 
stand a little out of the road, near a marshy meadow, and are 
covered with thick masses of luxuriant ivy. They consist 
chiefly of the east end of the chapel, an oblong square building 
with an arched parapet, and the gateway, which has also an 
arched battlement. These battlements are supposed to have 
been erected in the fourteenth century, by Bishop Gower, who 
left similar specimens of his taste at St. David's and Swansea 
Castle. 

STACKPOOL COURT, 

The seat of Lord Cawdor, is situated about three miles south of 
Pembroke, and half a mile from the sea. It stands in the midst 
of beautiful and thriving plantations, and has in front a fine 
piece of water. It formerly bore a castellated form, and during 
the Civil Wars was garrisoned for the King. The present man- 
sion was erected on the site of the old one, and is built of lime- 
stone. It contains many fine apartments, a library, and several 
pictures. The park is well stocked with deer, and the lake with 
wild fowl. 

ST. GOWAN'S, ST. GAWAINE'S, OR ST. GOVIN'S CHAPEL, 

Situated on the coast, a short distance west of Stackpool Court, 
is said to have been a hermitage. It consists of a rude chapel, 
with an altar at the east end, over which is an arch opening 
into a cleft of the rock. Within this cleft, tradition informs us, 
St. Gowan was concealed from the pursuit of his enemies, and 
that the chasm opened to release him when they had passed by. 
/ Below the Chapel also is a Well, said to be miraculous in the 
cure of various disorders. The Chapel is approached on the 
land side by a flight of rude steps. 

Still further towards the west is a fissure in the cliffs, called 
Penny's and Adam's Leap, over which it is said two hunters, 
with these names, were carried in the ardour of the chase. 



254 PEMBROKE. 



BOSHERTON MEER 

Is yet further westward. It is a small opening in the limestone 
rock, through which, during heavy gales from the south-west, 
the sea is forced up from beneath in a column thirty feet high. 

THE STACKS OR CASTLES, 

About one mile and a half west of Bosherton Meer, are two 
lofty and insular rocks, disjointed from the main land by the 
continued action of the waves. They are surrounded by the' 
sea, even at low water, and derive their name from the resem- 
blance which their perpendicular sides bear to castellated 
buildings. From March to August they are covered with birds 
called eligugs, which in form and colour are not unlike the 
parrot. They come hither for the purpose of laying their 
solitary egg, and hatching the young one. They make no nest, 
but support the egg or young bird on the shelving rock with 
their foot, the warmth of which is of itself sufficient for the 
purpose of hatching. When this is effected, they shove the 
young down into the water, and leave the rock, to make room 
for others. They never leave their station voluntarily till their 
office is at an end; and if disturbed during the process, their 
charge falls into the sea and is lost. Another peculiarity is, 
that they cannot take wing from the land, nor fly to any dis- 
tance from the water over the land, though they rise high and 
fly a great way out at sea. 

Near the Stacks is a large Danish Camp, occupying an 
extensive neck of land, in which is an abyss with perpendi- 
cular sides, called the Cauldron. In short, the whole extent 
of coast from Stackpool Court as far as Lenny Head abounds 
with excavations, insulated rocks, and a variety of appearances 
which demonstrate the tremendous violence with which the sea 
occasionally acts. Though the direct distance from Pembroke 
is only a few miles, the greater part of a day must be occupied 
if the tourist wish to make the circuit of the coast. 






PENMACHNO. PENMAEN MAWR. 255 

PENMACHNO, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Capel Curig 9 Llanrwst 7 

Festiniog 11 

Penmachno, or the head of the Machno, is a singular vil- 
lage, being built in a circle round the Church. 

About two miles from this place, near the road to Llan- 
rwst, is 

RHAIADYR Y CRAIG LLWYD, 

'I A waterfall near the junction of the Machno with the Conway. 
i The descent to it is very steep. It is surrounded by naked 
precipices with lofty angular rocks. 



PENMAEN MAWR, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aber 3 Conway 6i 

Bangor 8£ 

Or the Great End Stone, is so called from being the last of 
the long chain of mountains which crosses the county. Its 
height above the level of the sea is 1545 feet, and from its base 
perpendicularly 1400 feet. It is the blackest-looking hill in 
Wales, being without herbage, and composed of a coarse shivery 
slate. It presents towards the sea a rugged and almost per- 
pendicular front, along which the high road from Bangor to 
Conway has been carried. Previous to 1772 the only passage 
was by a narrow and irregular path, attended with great 
danger; but an application was then made to Parliament, and 
ja voluntary subscription entered into for the formation of a 
I road, which was accomplished under the superintendence of 
| Mr. John Sylvester. This has since been improved by Mr. 
j Telford, by order of the Parliamentary Commissioners, and the 
■ new road was opened in the summer of 1827. It is protected 



256 PENMORFA. 

on the sea-side by a dwarf stone wall, and is supported in many 
places by walls rising from the shore, which is seen at a great 
depth below. On the other side of the road the rocks rise 
abruptly to an immense height, covered with fragments, which 
seem ready to fall on the passing traveller. 

Amidst the craggy rocks towards the upper part of the 
mountain, goats are frequently seen leaping from one fragment 
to another with surprising agility. They may be distinguished 
from the sheep, which also feed here, by their superior white- 
ness, the great height preventing their forms from being dis- 
tinctly seen. 

On the summit of Penmaen Mawr are vestiges of an ancient 
fortification, called Braich y Dinas, or the Arm of the City, 
which, according to tradition, was the strongest post of the 
Britons in this part of the country. Within the innermost 
enclosure is a well which is never dry. 

Penmaen Mawr may be ascended by the pedestrian from ( 
the base on either side, and a horseman will find no difficulty 
in going up to the top on the west side. 

Penmaen Bach, or the Little End Stone, is another lofty 
mountain, though of less height than Penmaen Mawr, situated 
on the coast, about a mile nearer to Conway. 



PENMORFA, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caernarvon 16J Tremadoc 2 

Criccieth 3J 



b 



Or the Head of the Marsh, is a village nearly surrounded by 
woods, and pleasantly situated at the extremity of some marshy 
meadows to the west of Tremadoc. In the Church is a monu 
ment in memory of Sir John Owen, a distinguished adherent 
of Charles I., who resided at Clenenny, which is about two ' 
miles to the north. After being defeated at Caernarvon, he 
was tried along with the Earl of Holland, Lord Loughborough, 






PENNARTH CASTLE. — PENRICE CASTLE. 257 



•jand other supporters of the royal cause, and condemned to die. 

! Great intercession being made for the other prisoners, and none 
for Sir John, Cromwell, it is said by some historians, and Ire- 
"jton by others, pleaded for him, saying, " Well, if no one tries 
Jto save this poor Welshman, I must stand his friend." He was, 
lii consequence, released, and permitted to retire to Clenenny, 
where he died. 

PENNARTH CASTLE, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Oystermouth Castle 4 Swansea « • • 8 

Penrice Castle- •••• 4 

Is supposed to have been erected by the Earl of Warwick, 
in the reign of Henry I. The ruins are surrounded by deep, 
1 loose sand-banks, which render them very difficult of access. 



PENRICE CASTLE, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Pennarth Castle 4 Swansea 12 

Is so called from the Norman family named Penrice, who 
settled here in the time of Edward I. From the ruins it appears 
to have been an extensive' fortress. Beneath the towers of the 
indent castle is an elegant modern mansion, with pleasing 
grounds commanding fine views of the sea. 

The village of Penrice, at a short distance from the Castle, 
h situated on the shore of Oxwich Bay. It is well sheltered 
with wood, and its Church forms a pleasing object when seen 
irom a distance. 

tj Between Pennarth and Penrice is the Gower Arms Inn, 
(which stands almost in the centre of the Peninsula of Gower, 
is consequently an excellent situation for persons wishing 



-land 

|to visit Arthur's Stone, Oxwich Bay, &c. 



258 PENTRAETH. PENYBONT. 



About two miles south of Penrice, is a small village at the ex 
tremity of Oxwich Bay. Of the Castle very little remains. ' 

Arthur's stone, 

Situated on a mountain called Cevn y Bryn, about three mile 
north of Penrice, is an immense flat stone, said to have beei t 
placed there by this celebrated hero. It weighs twenty tons 
and is supported by six or seven smaller stones four feet i; 
height, arranged in a circle. The tradition that there was a: 
ebbing and flowing well beneath it has been proved to b 
totally without foundation. Arthur's Stone is called by th 
Welsh the Stone of Sketty. 

PENTRAETH, 

IN ANGLESEA. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Beaumaris 5 Llangefni 4 

Llanfair - 2J 

Pentraeth, or the End of the Sands, is a small village wit 
a picturesque Church. 

Near the porter's lodge at Plas Gwynn, about half a mi. 
distant, are two stones, which, tradition says, mark the plac 
where Einion ap Gwalchmai, some centuries ago, obtained h 
wife by leaping fifty feet ! There were two competitors, an 
the female offered to take him who could leap the farthest. 

PENYBONT, 



IN RADNORSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from MUet. 

Builth 10 NewRadnor 

Kington 153 Rhaiadyr ■ 10 

Llandrindod 3 



r 



Is a small village situated on the river Ithon. It was fo 



PIERCEFIELD. 259 

merly called Rhyd y Cleivion. There are several gentlemen's 
seats here, and a respectable Inn where post-chaises may be 
procured. 

LLANDEGLEY 

Is about three miles from Penybont, on the road towards King- 
ton. It is a sulphureous vitriolic water, which rises in a field 
near the Bath-House. 

PIERCEFIELD, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 



Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 
Chepstow 2 Tintern Abbey 3 

The seat of N. Wells, Esq., has been long and justly cele- 
brated for the beauty of its walks. It is an elegant freestone 
mansion of three stories, consisting of a centre and two wings, 
standing nearly in the middle of a park of 300 acres. It 
originally belonged to the Walters family, who sold it in 1736 
to Colonel Morris, the father of Valentine Morris, to whom it 
was indebted for its principal embellishments, and whose cha- 
racter has been thus beautifully described by Bloomfield : — ' 

" Who was lord of yon beautiful seat, 

Yon woods which are tow'ring so high ? 
Who spread the rich board for the great, 

Yet listen'd to pity's soft sigh ? 
Who gave with a spirit so free, 

And fed the distress'd at his door ? 
Our Morris of Piercefield was he, 

Who dwelt in the hearts of the poor. 

'* But who e'en of wealth shall make sure, 

Since wealth to misfortune has bow'd ? 
Long cherish'd, untainted, and pure, 

The stream of his charity flow'd. 
But all his resources gave way, 

O what could his feelings control ! 
What shall curb, in the prosperous day, 

Th' excess of a generous soul ? 

" He bade an adieu to the town, 
O ! can I forget the sad day, 



[ 

I 



260 PIERCEFIELD. 

When I saw the poor widows kneel down, 

To bless him, to weep, and to pray ? 
Though sorrow was mark'd in his eye, 

This trial he manfully bore ; 
Then pass'd o'er the bridge of the Wye, 

To return to his Piercefield no more. 

" 'Twas true that another might feel, 

And poverty still might be fed ; 
Yet long we rang out the dumb peal, 

For to us noble Morris was dead. 
He had not lost sight of his home, 

Yon domain which so lovely appears, 
When he heard it, and sank overcome, — 

He felt it, and burst into tears. 
• • 
" The lessons of prudence have charms, 

And slighted, may lead to distress ; 
But the man whom benevolence warms 

Is an angel who lives but to bless. 
If ever man merited fame, 

If ever man's failings went free, L 
Forgot at the sound of his name, 

Our Morris of Piercefield was he." 

Piercefield was afterwards trie residence of George Smitr 
Esq., and of his accomplished daughter Miss Elizabeth Smith 
whose Memoirs were published by Mrs. Bowdler. She die 
in 1806. 

The grounds can only be seen on Tuesdays and Fridayr 
The best way is to enter them at the gate furthest from Chep 
stow, as the sceneiy then appears to most advantage. The nin 
principal views will then be seen in the following order:- 
1. The Lover's Leap. 2. A seat near two beech-trees on 
edge of the precipice. 3. The Giant's Cave. 4. The He 
way Seat. 5. The Double View. 6. The View above Pierc 
Wood. 7. The Grotto. 8. The Platform. 9. The Alcove 
But whichever way the tourist enters the grounds, he cam 
fail of being delighted with the romantic character of 
scenery. 

The Walk extends about three miles in length, amidst pla 
tations of oak, ash, and elm, which grow in luxuriant profusic 
For the greater portion of the way it is carried along the e( 
of a precipice overhanging the Wye, which urges its sinuc 



PIERCEFIELD. 261 

:ourse along the bottom of the glen. In one place the river, 
jently curving, exhibits the whole breadth of its channel, whilst 
n another, projecting rocks and intervening foliage conceal its 
:ourse, or sparingly exhibit its darkened surface. Sometimes a 
)road face of naked rock is presented, stretching along a vast 
pace like the fortifications of a citadel ; and sometimes the 
>anks exhibit an amphitheatre of woods. Many of the objects 
ire seen more than once, but, being viewed from different sta- 
ions and with new accompaniments, they appear new. The 
,valk, however, has a degree of tediousness and too much 
ameness in many of its parts, notwithstanding the general 
r ariety which enlivens it. 

About a mile from the grounds of Piercefield, and three 
niles from Chepstow, is the 

MOSS COTTAGE, 

Erected by the Duke of Beaufort for the accommodation of pic- 
lic parties and other visitors to this charming district. Imme- 
diately behind this cottage a path has been formed to the sum- 
mit of the 

WINDCLIFF. 

This is an almost perpendicular hill, about 1000 feet in 
leight, crowned with a dark wood, which extends down its sides 

the Wye. The view from the top is the grandest scene on 
he banks of this river, and one of the most beautiful in England. 

1 extends into nine counties, and presents such an extraordinary 
ombination of wood, rock, water, sky, and plain, of height and 
jibyss, of rough and smooth, of recess and projection, of fine 
Jand scape near and exquisite perspective afar, all melting into 
|ach other, and grouping with such admirable harmony, that it 
js almost impossible to conceive of a scene more beautiful. 

The spectator stands upon the edge of a precipice, the depth 
ij)f which is awful, and the river winds at his feet walled in by 
jugged rocks. To the right are the woods of Piercefield, and 
v)eyond them the town and castle of Chepstow ; to the left, a 
: fange of -rocks, over which appear the Severn and the fine shores 



262 PLAS NEWYDD. 

between Thornbury and Bristol, rising behind each other in 
graceful curves. This view also embraces the union of the 
Severn and the Wye, at the head of the peninsula of Beachley, 
the mountains of Brecon and Glamorgan, the hills of Somer- 
setshire, and the Bristol Channel. 

PLAS NEWYDD, 

IN ANGLESEA. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caernarvon 5 Menai Bridge 3 

Plas Newydd, or the New Mansion, the magnificent seat 0i 
the Marquess of Anglesea, is situated near the shore of the 
Menai Strait. The architecture is in the castellated style 
though the building is modern. It was erected from design: 
by Mr. Potter. The front consists of three bows, the centra, 
one being separated from those of the extremities by two oc, 
tagonal pillars of stone, which terminate in light turrets anc 
spires rising above an embattled parapet. The windows are ii 
the modern Gothic style. 

The interior comprises a lofty vestibule, bearing consi 
derable resemblance to a chapel ; a large dining-hall, adornei 
with valuable pictures; a drawing-room, elegantly furnished; ; 
billiard-room; a chapel; and other apartments. The window 
command fine views of the Menai Strait and the Snowdo: 
Mountains. In the summer of 1821, his late Majesty Georg 
IV. was entertained here on his way to Dublin. 

The Park is not very extensive, but is well laid out in ride, 
and walks, which exhibit great diversity. It is protected fror 
the encroachments of the sea by a strong parapet wall. 

At a short distance from the house is one of the largest 
most entire Cromlechs* in Wales. It is double, consisting 

* Cromlechs are large stones, supposed by some to have been the altars, ar 
by others the tombs of the Druids. Mr . Toland derives the word from the M 
erom, to adore, and leac, a stone — a stone of adoration ; but it is much mo 
probable that cromlech is the compound of the Welsh words crom, the feminij 
of cnvm, crooked, and llech, a flat stone, which, when joined to another syllabi 
is spelt lech. 



PLAS NEWYDD. 263 

ija greater and a less. The greater is twelve feet nine inches 
i long and thirteen feet two inches broad. It rests upon four 
jstones, a fifth having been detached and thrown down; and is 

supposed to weigh upwards of thirty tons. Its greatest depth 
\ or thickness is five feet. The lesser cromlech is six feet square, 

resting on three stones, a fourth having fallen down. 

Near these cromlechs is a Carnedd, part of which having 
I teen removed, discovered a cell seven feet long and three 
[jwide, covered with two flat stones. In one of these stones 
liwere two holes, supposed by some to have been stocks, in 
■ which the victims of Druidical sacrifice were confined. Others 

suppose that the cell was a burial-place, and that the heads of 

tthe bodies were placed in these holes. 



THE ANGLESEA COLUMN, 

Erected in honour of the noble Marquess, is situated on the 
summit of Craig y Dinas, a lofty eminence commanding a fine 
I view of the Menai. The first stone was laid June 18, 1816, 
Ion the anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo, and the column 
icompleted September 8, 1817. It is 100 feet in height from 
■ the base ; and the rock on which it stands rises 260 feet above 
i|the level of the sea. 

< Opposite to Craig y Dinas, are the Swelly Rocks, many of 
which are visible at low water, when the sea runs between 
i jthem with such tremendous fury, that its roaring can be heard 
Wot a considerable distance. At high water all is perfectly 
! calm. Vessels passing by these rocks are obliged to take a 
'pilot well acquainted with the navigation. 

MOEL Y DON, 

'Or the Hill of the Wave, is about a mile from Plas Newydd. 
"From the village of Moel y Don there is a ferry across the 
1 Menai. Caernarvon is four miles to the south-west. 



264 PLINLIMMON. 

PLINLIMMON, 

IN CARDIGANSHIRE AND MONTGOMERYSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberystwith 16 Llanidloes 13 

Devil's Bridge 9£ Machynlleth 10 

Is one of the principal mountains in Wales, being inferior 
only to Snowdon and Cader Idris in size and height. Its 
name, Plinlimmon, or, more properly, Pumlumon, is derived 
from five beacons, some of which still remain, and are seen al 
a great distance. Though Plinlimmon is usually spoken of at 
a single mountain, there are in fact three, each of which may 
be considered as a vast bed of mountains, piled one abovt 
another. The highest point rises 2463 feet above the level o 
the sea. 

The ascent of this mountain is the most dangerous ir 
Wales, and should never be attempted without a guide, or 
account of the frequent bogs, which hold out no warning 
concealed as they are under a smooth and apparently firm turf 
This, and all the adjacent hills, are entirely destitute of wood 
and the whole scene has a desolate character. 

The summit commands a circle many miles in diameter 
but tourists seldom deem the view sufficiently grand to com 
pensate for the fatigues of the ascent. On a clear day, th< 
lulls of Cardiganshire appear towards the south like so man; 
hillocks; to the west, are Cardigan Bay and St. George'- 
Channel; to the north, Cader Idris and part of the Snowdoi 
range ; to the north-east, the Breiddon Hills ; and to the easl 
parts of Herefordshire and Shropshire. 

This mountain is chiefly remarkable as the source ofn«. 
fewer than five rivers, the Severn, Hafren or Sabrina, the Wy 
or Vaga, the Rheidol, the Ystwith, and the Clevedoc. Th 
sources of the Wye and the Severn are within two miles o 
each other. See Llanidloes. 

Plinlimmon is also famous as having been a statio' 
occupied by Owen Glyndwr, who, in 1401, fixed himse' 



PONT ABERGLASLYN. 265 

here with 120 men, and greatly harassed the neighbouring 

country. 

A guide may generally, though not always, be procured at 
: Steddva Gerrig, a village about six miles and a half from the 
j Devil's Bridge, on the road towards Llanidloes. The distance 

from this village to the summit of Plinlimmon is about three 

miles. 

PONT ABERGLASLYN, 

BETWEEN CAERNARVONSHIRE AND MERIONETHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Beddgelart • 1£ Tan y Bwlch 7£ 

Maentwrog 7i Tremadoc o 4 \ 

Pont Aberglaslyn, or the Bridge at the mouth of the Blue 
Lake, is sometimes called the Devil's Bridge, an appellation 
which has frequently led strangers to confound it with the 
Devil's Bridge in Cardiganshire. 

The Bridge itself presents nothing remarkable, but the 
surrounding scenery is magnificent. The road winds along 
a narrow stony vale, where the dark perpendicular cliffs on 
each side approach so near as only to leave room for a car- 
riage-road and for the river, formed by the united torrents of 
si) the Colwyn and Glas Llyn, which rolls along with tremendous 
B fury. 

t This bridge crosses the Colwyn, and forms a connexion 

k between the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth. It is 

ii thirty feet in span and forty feet in height, from the water to 

lithe parapet. A few yards above the bridge was a noted 

j salmon-leap, but it is now broken down. The salmon come 

'{up the river towards the latter end of the year, sometimes as 

1 early as the end of September, in order to deposit their spawn 

Si on the sandy shallows ; and it was formerly not uncommon to 

•jsee twenty or thirty in an hour attempting to pass the falls, 

although they seldom succeeded. 

Near Pont Aberglaslyn are some rich copper-mines, be- 
ii longing to a company. 



266 PONT AR DULAS. — PONT NEATH VAUGHAN. 

Upon the side of the road towards Beddgelart is a stone, 
called the Chair of Rhys Goch oV Ryri, on which, it is said, ; 
this mountain bard, who was contemporary with Owen Glyndwr, 
composed some of his poems. 

PONT AR DULAS, or DYLAIS, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caennarthen 17i Llanelly 6J 

LlandiloVawr 14 Swansea 9 

Separates Caermarthenshire from Glamorganshire. It takes- 
its name from the little river over which it is built, and which 
here joins the Lwghor, or Loughor. The character of the- 
surrounding scenery, and the beauty of the vale through which 
the river flows, frequently induce travellers to stop at the Inn 
here. 

PONT NEATH VAUGHAN, 

IN BRECKNOCKSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Brecon 20 Merthyr Tydvil 12 ,; 

Glyn Neath, or Lamb and Neath 12 

Flag 2 

Pont Neath Vaughan, or Faughan, or Pont ar Nedd Fechan 
that is, the Bridge on the Lesser Neath, is a small village 
the south edge of the county. It has a Public-house, callec 
the Angel, where a guide may be procured to visit the natura 
curiosities in the vicinity. Other guides also reside in the 
village. 

The Neath Fechan, or Little Neath, here divides the coun- 
ties of Glamorgan and Brecon. The greatest number of house; 
are on the Brecon side. 

This village is situated at the head of a valley, near th( 
junction of five rivers, most of which form waterfalls, adorne 
with picturesque rocks and woods. The Purthen makes twcr 
the Melte two, the Hepste two, and the Scwd Rhyd one. 

These seven falls may all be viewed in one excursion : 
making a circuit of ten miles, including a visit to Porth Ogof 



PONT NEATH VAUGHAN. 267 

3. but, as this would be too fatiguing for many persons, it is 
usual to visit the falls of the Purthen in a portion of one day, 
and reserve the other falls and Forth Ogof for the next. Ponies 
imay be used for a small part of the excursion, but the greater 
[part of it must be on foot. A guide is indispensable. A con- 
siderable portion of the route is rugged and dirty. 

THE SCWD, OR YSGWD EINON GAM, SCOTENOGAM, OR 
CROOKED WATERFALL. 

About a mile and a half from the village is a waterfall, 
formed by the little river Pryddin, or Purthen. The river 
tears through a narrow and gloomy glen, and falls from an 
elevation of eighty-one feet in one unbroken sheet of v/ater. 
A.n oak, spreading its branches over the stream just at the 
point where the water is precipitated from the rock, adds much 
to the picturesque effect. One side of the chasm is a naked 
rock, and the other is fringed with the mountain-oak and 
willow. The descent to this fall is not very easy; but the 
grandeur of the scene will amply compensate for any difficulty 
the visitor may experience. 

SCWD, OR YSGWD GWLNDIS, OR WLADIS, OR LADy's FALL, 

[s also situated on the Pryddin, at a short distance from the 
receding, but lower down the river, and nearer to the village 
)f Pont Neath Vaughan. Its height is about thirty feet, and it 
s projected from the impending rock with such force that the 
tourist may pass behind it with the greatest ease. 

On a rock near the Lady's Fall is a Logan, or Rocking 
.jStone, about four feet in diameter. 

THE FALLS OF THE HEPSTE, OR HEPSEY, 

ifoe between three and four miles from Pont Neath Vaughan. 
The tourist must first proceed to the romantic pass of Craig 

< r Dinas, or the fortress precipice, which is one of the finest 
cenes in Wales. After gaining the top of the crag, and 
rossing to the right, you look down upon a dingle, through 
yhich the Sycrhyd, or Scwd Rhyd river flows to the Purthen; 



268 PONT NEATH VAUGHAN. 

and opposite is seen a pretty fall of the Scwd Rhyd, whicf 
here divides Brecknockshire from the county of Glamorgan' 
There is here a very curious stratum of gray marble in thi' 
rock, which, being of curvilinear form, is called Bwa Maen 
or the Stone Bow. It is about ninety feet high and seventh • 
broad ; the strata lie in concentric lines. From the top c [ 
Craig y Din as a fine view is obtained of the Vale of Neath. ,- 

On recrossing the summit of the hill, the river Melte i 
seen pursuing its rugged course along the base, in the form c 
a semicircle. The opposite bank rises abruptly to a gres 
height, covered with trees. Thence we proceed over a com 1 
mon towards Culhepste Farm. From a stile on this side of : 
there is a fine view of the Vale of Neath, extending to Swanse 
and the Mumbles. Beyond this farm, the Hepste and Mell- 
join. The bed of the former is an immense depth imnu 
diately below, and the two streams are separated by a woode 
promontory, forming a frontispiece to the view when you loo 
up the course of the united streams. 

The roaring of the Hepste cascades is heard at a cor 
siderable distance as they are approached from the uppt 
grounds. On arriving at the edge of the dingle, the 

j 

GREAT OR UPPER FALL OF THE HEPSTE 

Bursts at once upon the view ; a broad sheet of water pr- 
jecting itself over an abrupt ledge of rock to the depth of fif 
feet. The distance of the falls from the junction of the tv 
dingles with their streams is less than a quarter of a mil 
The descent, to examine the fall more minutely, is down 8 
rugged and steep rock, which forms the boldest feature in tf 
dingle at the bottom, but affords an abrupt and hazardo_ 
passage. The ascent, on returning, were it necessary, won 
be very difficult, but the surprise of the visitor will be excite 
when he is informed that his route lies behind or under i 
cascade ; for such is the rapidity of the torrent, that the whc 
sheet is thrown out so far as to leave, at all times, a pa 
wide enough for a horse-path between the falling river and 
rock. This path is formed by a rude natural ledge of stor 



PONT NEATH VAUG'HAN. 269 

covered with moss, at about one-third of the height from the 
J bottom of the precipice. Beneath this waterfall Mr. Warner 
took refuge from a shower of rain. 

KThe effect of sunshine on the cascade, when behind it on a 
fine day, is grand and beautiful, and a rainbow is then con- 
~i istantly visible. The particles of water glittering with a silvery 
{brightness as they fall; the uncommon brilliancy of every 
||jning without, seen through such a medium, contrasted with 
jj the dark green of the moss, everlastingly wet with spray ; the 
ycorroded dinginess of the rock ; the damp and vaporous gloom 
J of the atmosphere within, — altogether form a singularly mingled 
-scene of awe and gaiety. 

h After passing this cascade, and skirting the side of the 
y dingle for a few steps in front of the majestic rock, the tourist 
j descends to the 

■I 

LOWER FALL OF THE HEPSTE, 

i ! Or rather series of falls, as there are several, all being within a 
I furlong of the first. The total height of these falls is upwards 
Ljof 300 feet. From the last of the cascades a path winds 
round the front of the promontory, which separates the two 
dingles and their rivers. Having gained the high ground, and 
passed two or three stony fields, the brink of a precipice dis- 
closes the 

LOWER CLYN GWN OF THE MELTE, 

Consisting of four falls, following each other in rapid suc- 
cession. These falls are frequently missed by visitors, if the 
guide happens to be tired ; but they are well worthy of in- 

J spection. 

J Thence we proceed by fording the stream, or else going 

j about a mile round, to the 

•| 

UPPER CLYN GWN OF THE MELTE. 

: j This cataract is broader than that of the Hepste, and is 
J seventy feet in height. It is different also in character. It 
,i projects as suddenly, and carries a larger body of water with 

I 



270 PONT NEATH VAUGHAN. 

more violence. It is, therefore, more awful and tremendous ; 
but the great curiosity of the river Melte is 

PORTH YR OGOF. 

This is a stupendous cavern, between the Fall and Ystrad- 
velly, through which the Melte runs for half a mile. The 
descent from the upper lands to the bed of the river is by no 
means difficult, nor does it at the first view present any thing 
beyond a rural, quiet landscape ; but as the tourist advances.' 
he finds himself at the mouth of the cavern, the opeuing of: 
which is about forty-three feet wide and nineteen feet high.; 
There is a practicable passage through it, but the attempt 
imprudent. It is necessary to carry candles, and if they 
happen to be extinguished by the damp vapour, the difficult)! 
and danger become great. There is also a passage to the right, 
•where it is necessary to take candles, leading, after a shor 
distance, to a considerable excavation, in the form of a dome ; 
faintly illuminated by an aperture at the top. 

On quitting the cavern, the Melte is crossed at the entrance. 
w T hen a beaten path winds gradually and pleasingly along tht 
western bank, with the little village of Ystradfellte in the dis- 
tance. Ystradfellte, or velty, is situated four miles from Pon 
Neath Vaughan. It consists of only a few cottages and i 
Church. 

THE SGWD YR HEN RHYD, 

Is a waterfall made by the little river Llech. It lies in 
same direction from Pont Neath Vaughan as the Scwd Einc 
Gam, but is about four or five miles beyond it. This litt 
mountain-stream is only seen to advantage after heavy rain; 
and is consequently but little visited. The water is firs 
thrown in foam over a ledge of rocks, three or four yards ir 
length, interrupting its descent; after which it falls in on( 
unbroken sheet of ninety feet, and then runs concealed bj 
underwood into the Tawe. A guide will be necessary to fine 
this waterfall. 



PONT Y GLYN. PONTYPOOL. 271 

PONT Y GLYN, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Cerig y Druidion 4| Corwen 5J 



Pont y Glyn DifFwys, or the Bridge of the Valley Pre- 
cipice, is situated on the great Holyhead road, at the head of a 
woody glen, with prominent rocks almost obscured by the 
surrounding foliage. The Bridge consists of a single arch, 
| standing upon two nearly perpendicular eminences, about 
I sixty feet above the bed of the river, which here foams most 
[I furiously over the rugged rocks. The cataract is not very lofty, 
but being immediately beneath the bridge, and surrounded by 
foliage, it has a very picturesque appearance. 



PONTYPOOL, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Abergavenny 10J Monmouth • • •-• 20 

Caerleon 8 Newport 8 

Caerphilly 11 Ragland 11 



London 150 Usk 



Is situated on a cliff overhanging the river Avon. Its 
name is a corruption of Pont ap Howel, or Howel's Bridge, 
though some have supposed it was derived from a bridge 
thrown over a pool. This place is noted for the manufacture 
of japan ware, invented here by Thomas Allgood, in the reign 
« of Charles II. The trade, however, has considerably de- 
\ clined since the improvements effected at Birmingham and 
other places. The coating of iron plates with tin was intro- 
duced into England by J. Hanbury, Esq., and the first ma- 
factory of it established at this place. In the vicinity are 
extensive iron works ; and there is a Canal from Pontypool to 
Newport. The Market is held on Saturday. Inn. The Red 
Lion. 



nul 



272 PONT Y PR1DD. 

Pontypool Park, close to the town, is the seat of the Han- 
bury family. 

PONT Y PRIDD, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distant/ram Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberdare 9 Llandaff 9J 

Caerdiff 12 Llantrissent 4£ 

Caerphilly 7 Merthyr Tydvil 12 






Or New Bridge, is an extraordinary piece of architecture, " 
consisting of a single stone arch, thrown across the river Taaf. 
It is 140 feet in the span, and the height from the spring of 
the arch to the keystone is thirty-four feet. In each of the 
haunches are three circular openings ; the diameter of the first, 
nearest to the abutment, is nine feet ; of the next, six feet ; of 
the third, three feet. The road over the bridge is about eleven : 
feet in width, but is narrower at the centre than at the ex-' 
tremities. The view of the valley and adjacent hills from the 
summit of the arch is remarkably beautiful. 

The artist will find the best position for taking a view, by 
crossing the bridge from east to west, turning to the left, and 
following the edge of the river for a little distance. The whole 
then appears finely set off with rock, wood, and water. Un- 
derneath the Bridge is an echo, which is said to repeat a single 
sound nine times. 

The history of this bridge is curious. In 1746, William' 
Edwards, who was a stone-mason and self-taught architect, 
undertook to build a bridge, at the expense of the county, and 
to ensure its standing seven years. This first attempt was a 
structure of three arches, which was swept away by a flood two 
years and a half after its completion. He then constructed a 
single arch ; but its crown was so light and thin, and the 
pressure on the haunches so great, that the keystone was 
forced up, and the bridge fell. This occurred in 1751. Not 
discouraged by these failures, he improved on his second plan' 
by introducing circular openings, which, while they relieved' 
the weight of the haunches, gave lightness and elegance to the 



PORT PENRHYN. 273 

general appearance of the structure. This third bridge, which 
; has stood ever since, was completed in 1755. The following 
| inscription is, however, placed on the parapet wall : " Wil- 
; liam Edwards, 1750. Repaired in 1798 by Edward David 
j J and Thomas Evan." 

On account of the high ground on each side, the Bridge is 
not visible from the turnpike road which runs up the Vale of 
the Taaf from Cardiff to Merthyr Tydvil. In ascending the 
vale, it is approached by a road turning abruptly to the left 
over the Canal, about three quarters of a mile beyond the 
Bridgewater Arms, an Inn about halfway between Cardiff and 
Merthyr. 

In the vicinity of Pont y Pridd are two small waterfalls ; 

[ one, half a mile above the Bridge, is formed by the river Taaf, 

which descends eight or ten feet in several divisions; and the 

other, two miles distant, by the little river Rontha, the scenery 

of which is very pretty. 

VALLEY OF THE RONTHA. 

From Pont y Pridd the enterprising horseman or pedes- 
trian might make an excursion up the valley of the Rontha to 
Ystrad y Vodwg, a village about six or seven miles distant, 
surrounded by very striking mountain scenery. The Rontha 
makes several falls, besides the one just noticed, in its passage 
down the valley, and joins the Taaf a little below Pont y 
Pridd. 

PORT PENRHYN, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 



' 



Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aber 3J Llandegai « 2 

Bangor 1| 



Port Penrhyn, formerly called Aber Cegin, from its situ- 
j ation at the mouth of the little river Cegin, is the grand depot 
I for the slates brought from the Llandegai Quarries, and hence 

Ethey are exported in immense quantities. The quay is 
upwards of 900 feet in length, and the port is capable of 
n 2 



274 PORT PENRHYN. 

receiving vessels from 300 to 400 tons, which can lie here 
completely sheltered. 

Near the port is a manufactory of ciphering slates, ink- 
stands, &c, which was established by the late Lord Penrhyn. 
There are also Hot and Cold Sea-Water Baths, constructed 
from designs by Wyatt. 

PENRHYN CASTLE, 

About a mile east of Port Penrhyn, is the magnificent seat of 
G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. It is delightfully situated on a 
wooded eminence between the mouths of the Cegin and the 
Ogwen, and commands extensive views both of sea and land. 
The original castle was the palace of Roderic Mywnog, the 
grandson of Cadwalader, the last king of the Britons, who 
began his reign in 720. It was rebuilt in the reign of Henry 
VI. by Gwillim ap Gryffydd, and has experienced many 
changes; but the present proprietor is likely to render it a 
lasting monument of his wealth and taste, having been many 
years occupied in remodelling it on a splendid scale from 
designs by Wyatt. It is a noble specimen of Norman archi- 
tecture, and, although new, looks exceedingly venerable, from 
its massive proportions and the sombre colour of the stone. 

The park and grounds are well laid out, and the principal 
entrance to them is one of the finest gateways in the kingdom : 
it is in the Norman style. Tickets to view this princely domain 
may be obtained at the Penrhyn Arms Hotel. 

At Penrhyn Castle is preserved a curious specimen of ' 
antiquity. It is the Hirlas, or Drinking Horn, which be- 
longed to Piers Gryffydd, and bears his initials. This is a 
large horn of an ox, ornamented with enchased silver, and 
suspended by a chain of the same metal. On festive days it - 
was the practice, in former times, to fill the horn with me- 
theglin, and compel each visitor to empty it at a single 
draught, blowing the horn immediately afterwards, to prove that 
he had accomplished it. This custom is said to have ori- 
ginated with Owain Cy ve iliog, one of the most distinguished 
Princes of Powis, who flourished about 1160. He was a great 






PRESTEIGN. 275 

warrior and an eminent poet, and wrote a poem called the 
Hirlas Horn. After a battle he always called for the Hirlas, 
filled it with metheglin, and drank the contents at a draught, 
then sounded it to shew that there was no deception, and 
made each of his officers follow his example. To this Mrs. 
Hemans refers, in a beautiful song published by Mr. Parry, in 
the Welsh Melodies, concluding thus : — 

" Fill higher the Hirlas ! forgetting not those 

Who shar'd its bright draught in the days which are fled ! 
Though cold on their mountains the valiant repose, 

Their lot shall be lovely — renown to the dead ! 
While harps in the hall of the feast shall be strung, 

While regal Eryri with snow shall be crown'd — 
So long by the bard shall their battles be sung, 

And the heart of the hero shall burn at the sound : 
The free winds of Cambria shall swell with their name, 
And Owain's rich Hirlas be fill'd to their fame." 



PRESTEIGN, 

IN RADNORSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Builth, by New Radnor 19J London, by Worcester 151 

Kington 6$ London, by Hereford ••• • 156 

Knighton 7 New Radnor 1\ 

Leominster 14 

Or Llan Andrew, is the principal place in the county. It 
is a neat and well-built town, containing about 2000 inha- 
bitants, and is pleasantly situated on the small river Lugg, 
over which is a Bridge uniting the counties of Radnor and 
Hereford. The river is noted for its trout and grayling. 

The Church is surrounded by an extensive cemetery. It 
contains numerous monumental tablets, and an altar-piece of 
tapestry representing Christ's entry into. Jerusalem. The 
walls are decorated with ancient figures of Moses, Aaron, Time, 
and Death. 

Presteign also possesses a Town Hall, and a Free School, 
founded by John Beddoes, in the reign of Elizabeth. The 
site of the ancient Castle is occupied by the Warden Walk, 



276 PWLLHELI. 

adorned with plantations, laid out for the use of the inha- 
bitants, at the expense of Lord Oxford. Near it is a Bowling 
Green. Dr. Lucas, who wrote the " Inquiry after Happiness," 
was a native of Presteign. 

The Market-day is Saturday. Inn. The Radnorshire 
Arms. 

PWLLHELI, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caernarvon 22 London 234 

Criccieth 8 Nevin 7 

Pwllheli, that is, Saltwater Pit, is a considerable market- 
town and sea-port, with about 1500 inhabitants. It is situated 
at the mouth of several small streams, and the harbour is 
capable of accommodating vessels of sixty tons, which are 
employed in the coasting trade and fishing. Herrings, John 
Dories, smelts, and a peculiar kind of lobster, are caught here ; 
and large salmon of superior flavour and colour are frequently 
taken at the mouth of the river. The streets are badly paved, 
and the houses generally mean ; but the vicinity is adorned 
with villas and gentlemen's seats. The Church is about half a 
mile distant. Many small vessels are built here. 

At the entrance of the harbour is Curreg y Wimbill, or the 
Gimlet, a large circular rock, which forms a prominent feature 
in every view of Cardigan Bay. It is connected w T ith the main 
land by a series of sand-hills. 

The beach is well adapted for sea-bathing, and is much 
frequented for this purpose during the summer months. Many 
hundred acres of land in the vicinity of Pwllheli, which used 
to be flooded by high tides, have been secured against the sea 
by embankments, and are now in cultivation. The view from 
the sea-shore is beautiful. The Market is held on Wednesdays 
and Saturdays; and provisions are cheaper here than in any 
other part of Wales. 

Inns. The Crown and Anchor, where post-chaises may be 
obtained ; the Ship and Ivy Bush. 



PYLE INN. 277 



LLANGYBI, 



About four miles north-east of Pwllheli, has a mineral spring, 
which is efficacious in curing diseases of the eyes. It was dis- 
covered during the last century. 



The tourist who is fond of aquatic excursions may hire a 
vessel at Pwllheli to visit Bardsey Island, which is about 
twenty-four miles distant. 

ABERDARON, 

About thirteen miles south-west of Pwllheli, is a fishing vil- 
lage, situated near the mouth of the little river Daron. The 
bay is pleasant and well adapted for bathing. There is an 
indifferent Inn. Here boats may be hired to visit Bardsey 
Island, the landing-place of which is eight miles distant. 

To the east of Aberdaron is an extensive bay of the sea, 
which is called HelVs Mouth, on account of the dangers which 
attend the navigation there. 

THE PROMONTORY OF LLYN, 

In which Pwllheli is situated, is an extensive district, forming 
the south-west portion of Caernarvonshire, and bounding the 
north side of Cardigan Bay. It is about twenty-two miles in 
length. Its breadth at the north-east end is ten miles, and at 
the south-west extremity not more than three miles. 

PYLE INN, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bridgend 7 Neath 121 

Margam 1| Newton "4 

Is a handsome house, erected for the accommodation of 
travellers by Mr. Talbot, the proprietor of Margam Park. It 
commands a good sea view. 



278 NEW RADNOR. 



KENFIG, OR CYNFIG LAKE, 

About two miles from Pyle Inn, is a geological cariosity. It 
occupies a hollow in the midst of sands ; and though only a 
short distance from the sea at flood tide, always retains its 
freshness. It is about a mile and a half in circumference. 
Kenfig Castle, which was one of the residences of Fitzhamon, 
stood on an eminence at some distance from this lake. 
Scarcely any traces of it are visible. 

RADNOR, NEW, 

IN RADNORSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Builth < 11| London, by Worcester 159 

Kington 6§ London, by Gloucester 161 

Knighton 11J Penybont 9 

Llandrindod 12 Presteign ~i\ 

New Radnor, or Maes-yved Newydd, was formerly the 
county town, but now consists of only a few miserable houses, 
forming an irregular street, without a single object to arrest the 
notice of the passing traveller. The Church stands on an emi- 
nence above the town. 

WATER BREAK ITS NECK 

Is a celebrated waterfall of seventy feet, about two miles weslj 
of New Radnor. It is so called on account of its precipitous, 
descent into a vast hollow, surrounded by craggy declivities, 
the loose fragments of which are frequently put in motion b\. 
the wind, and roll down in all directions; The grandeur of the 
scene is much heightened by an insulated mass of rock, twent) 
feet high, standing erect over the waterfall. The spring is ai 
a short distance from the cascade, and is sometimes nearl) 
dry. The fall is approached by a path along the side of i 
steep and barren mountain, beneath which the brook roll;, 
along. 






RAGLAND. 279 



HARPT0N COURT, 

About two miles from New Radnor, is the seat of Thomas 
Frankland Lewis, Esq. M.P. A mile from it is the Church of 
Old Radnor, built upon a rock, from which the place has 
sometimes been called Pen y Craig, or the Summit of a Rock. 
It contains some monuments of the Lewis family, and a font of 
large dimensions. 

BLANEDOW, 



Between eight and nine miles from New Radnor, at some dis- 
j tance to the left of the road towards Rhaiadyr, is a noted 
; mineral well, much frequented during the summer months. 

RAGLAND, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Abergavenny 9 Monmouth 8 

Chepstow 12 Pontypool 11 

London 138 Usk 5 

Is a small village, celebrated for the ruins of the Castle, which 
are amongst the finest in the kingdom. The Church is a 
Gothic edifice, containing a few mutilated monuments of the 
Beaufort and Worcester families. Here were buried William, 
third Earl of Worcester, in 1588 ; Edward, fourth Earl, 1628; 
and Edward, sixth Earl and second Marquess of Worcester, 
the Author of " A Century of Inventions/' from which it is 
supposed that Capt. Savery took the first hint for a steam- 
engine. He died in 1667. 

The Beaufort Arms Inn and Posting-House affords good 
accommodation to visitors. The London Mail passes and re- 
passes the village daily, and there is a Stage Coach-on al- 
ternate days, going up to London on the evenings of Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday, and returning to South Wales on the 
mornings of Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 

Ragland is supposed to have derived its name from Rhag- 



280 RAGLAND. 

law, the Welsh for Lieutenant or Governor, the governor of the 
district having resided in the Castle. This was at first cor- 
rupted to Rhaglan, and afterwards to Ragland. 

RAGLAND CASTLE. 

The Castle stands upon a gentle eminence, a few hundred 
yards from the village, on the road towards Monmouth. At a t 
distance the ruins appear a shapeless mass, partially concealed [ 
by intervening trees; but, on a nearer view, they assume a J 
more distinct form, from which their ancient strength and J 
grandeur may be easily imagined. 

A gate from the high road conducts into the Castle Farm, 
through which is a carriage drive to the gateway of the Castle. 8 
Persons reside here constantly, in order to shew the ruins to 
visitors, for whose accommodation the Duke of Beaufort has 
provided tables, chairs, &c, so that pic-nic parties may take - 
refreshment. During summer also a harper attends. , 

The Citadel, Keep, or Yellow Tower, which is first visited, 
was connected with the main building by a drawbridge. One 
half of this edifice was blown up by order of Cromwell ; but 
from the remaining portion it appears to have been a hexagon, 
five stories in height, defended by semicircular bastions. A 
geometrical stone staircase of ninety steps leads to the top of. 
the tower, from which a fine view of the whole extent of the 
ruins, and of the adjacent country, is obtained. In 1821, the 
rubbish surrounding the base of the tower was cleared away, 
and a walk formed, so as to afford a better view of this once 
noble structure. 

The Yellow Tower is surrounded by a moat, now nearly 
filled with water, and a raised terrace, with a wall, in which 
are fifteen niches, or large circular recesses, once adorned with 
statues of the Roman Emperors. The visitor then returns to 
the entrance gate. 

The Castle, which is faced with hewn freestone, encloses 
two courts, each communicating with the terrace by a gateway.] 
The principal entrance is the grandest part of the whole struc- 
ture : it consists of a Gothic portal and two elegant embattled 



RAGLAND. 281 

| towers, partially covered with ivy, which has within a few years 
i been so judiciously trained as to exhibit many architectural 
I ornaments hitherto concealed from the view. To the right 
1 appears a third tower, with a machicolated summit. The space 
I of ground within the castle-walls is upwards of four acres. 

Passing through the east gate, which contains grooves for a 
double portcullis, we enter the Pitched Stone Court, an oblong 
square, now covered with verdure. This appears to have been 
surrounded by the principal rooms of the castle, and the culi- 
nary offices. The bow-window of the Hall, on the left side, 
crowned with ivy, forms a beautiful object; and at the extre- 
! mity of the court are five windows, which have recently been 
i cleared, and produce a pleasing effect when the sun is setting. 
The Kitchen is situated at the end of this court, and is 
remarkable for a very large fire-place. The apartment itself 
appears to have been small for such an establishment, being 
only twenty feet square. One hundred and fifty persons are 
tj said to have had their daily food within the w-alls of the castle. 
'j Beneath the kitchen is a room of similar dimensions, called the 
Wet Larder. 

The visitor then passes through the dining-room appro- 
priated to the chief officers of the household, and enters the 
Grand State Hall or Banqueting-Room, used not many years 
ago as a fives-court by the neighbouring villagers. It is a 
noble apartment, apparently of the time of Elizabeth, sixty-six 
feet in length and twenty-eight in breadth. In the centre of 
the wall, at the east end, are the Arms of the first Marquess of 
Worcester, now much defaced, surrounded by the legend of 
the Order of the Garter, and having underneath his own motto, 
Mutare vel timere sperno, — I scorn to change or to fear. An 
aperture at the opposite end of the hall formerly led to a Music 
Gallery, in which the bards of South Wales were accustomed 
to assemble, as the Earl of Worcester was Governor of this 
part of the Principality. The fire-place is still perfect : it is 
ten feet in width, and eight in height. At the upper end of the 
hall is a Stone Table, placed here by Mr. Wyatt, under whose 
direction most of the improvements in the appearance of the 



282 RAGLAND. 

castle have been made. It consists of one piece of Monmouth- 
shire marble, nearly seventeen feet in length and four feet three 
inches in breadth, and is supported by eight fluted pillars, 
made from the elm-tree which formerly stood at the end of the 
Terrace. 

Beyond the Hall is the Large Court, surrounded by a range 
of buildings which were occupied during the siege as barracks. 
In the centre formerly stood the Fountain Horse, which was 
considered a great ornament. Traces of the well which sup- 
plied it are still visible. 

The Chapel is a long narrow room, parallel with the apart- 
ments for the chief officers of the household. It. contains two 
ancient stone statues. 

On leaving the Large Court, the visitor is conducted to the 
summit of the South-west Tower, where a space about nine 
feet square is protected by a railing and furnished with seats, 
so that persons may enjoy at their leisure the beautiful pro-' 
spects which this spot commands. The views are equally fine 
with those from the Yellow Tower. 

From the Large Court, a lofty gateway and a bridge across; 
the moat lead to the Grand Terrace, a noble walk 260 feet in 
length and seventy-seven in breadth, clothed with verdant turf, 
and commanding fine views. At the end of this terrace for- 
merly stood an elm of immense size : it measured twenty-six 
feet in girth, and the bark was nearly four inches thick. This 
stately tree fell a prey to the hurricane which occurred on Dec. 
5th, 1822. The seat which was placed under it has been since 
removed to another elm-tree of smaller dimensions. 

The visitor is then led through a rustic gate at the lower 
end of the Bowling-Green, to a walk which extends from south 
to north along the west front of the Castle. At the north 
extremity of this path a few stones point the way to another 
walk planted with apple-trees, through which we return to the 
Bowling-Green, and thence to the grand entrance of the Castle, 
thus completing the survey of this interesting ruin. 

Ragland Castle is supposed to have been principally erected 
by Sir William ap Thomas and his son William Earl of Pern- 






RAGLAND. 283 

broke, who was beheaded at Banbury in 1469; but it exhibits 
various styles of architecture, from the time of Henry V. to that 
of Charles I., additions and alterations having been made by 
the successive proprietors. It came into the noble family of 
Worcester by the marriage of Sir Charles Somerset with Eliza- 
beth, the grand-daughter of the Earl of Pembroke. He was 
created Earl of Worcester in 1513, and died in 1526. 

The Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII., was detained 
at this castle by order of Edward IV., in the custody of Lord 
Herbert ; and here also Henry, the first Marquess of Worcester, 
afforded an asylum to Charles L, after the battle of Naseby in 
1645. Soon after the retreat of the king from Monmouthshire, 
the castle was besieged by Sir Thomas Fairfax, and ultimately 
captured August 19th, 1646, being the last fortress which held 
out for royalty. A window is still shewn at which it is said a 
girl in the garrison made a signal to introduce the parliament- 
ary soldiers. The aged Marquess was sent prisoner to London, 
and his castle, being dismantled, fell a prey to his own tenants. 
At the Restoration the estates were recovered by the family, and 
now belong to the noble house of Beaufort. 

" Majestic Ragland ! harvests wave 
Where thund'ring hosts their watchword gave, 
When cavaliers, with downcast eye, 
Struck the last flag of loyalty : 
Then, left by gallant Worc'ster's band 
To devastation's cruel hand, 
The beauteous fabric bowed, — fled all 
The splendid hours of festival. 
No smoke ascends ; the busy hum 
Is heard no more ; no rolling drum, 
No high-toned clarion sounds alarms, 
No banner wakes the pride of arms ; 
But ivy, creeping year by year, 
Of growth enormous, triumphs here." 

Bloomfield's Banks of the Wye. 

KEVENTILLA, 

About four miles south-west from Ragland, is remarkable as 
having been the head-quarters of Sir Thomas Fairfax during the 
siege. Here, also, the Capitulation was signed. It is a large 



284 RHAIADYR. 

stone house, with a spacious court before it. A portion of the 
original front still remains. In order to reach Keventilla, pro- 
ceed along the Usk road for about three miles, to a public-house 
called Taylor's Hall. Here a lane on the left, about half a mile 
long, leads direct to the mansion. 

The house called The Ton, two miles from Ragland, on the 
Usk road, was formerly the residence of Harrison, the inventor 
of the Time-Piece, for the discovery of which he received from 
Parliament 20,000/. 

RHAIADYR, 

IN RADNORSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Builth 14 Llanidloes 11 

Cwm Ystwith 14£ London 178 

Devil's Bridge 18| Penybont 10 

Hafod 17 NewRadnor 19 

Llandrindod 13 

Rhaiadyr Gwy, or Rhayader, is situated on the Wye, at the 
foot of the mountains between North and South Wales. It de- 
rives its name from a cataract which the river formerly made 
here, but which has been removed by the erection of the bridge 
in 1780; Rhaiadyr in Welsh denoting a waterfall, and Gwy 
the name of the river. The town consists of two principal 
streets, traversing each other at right angles so as to form a 
cross, and contains about 1000 inhabitants. 

The Town-hall was erected in 1768, and the Church in 
1783. The view of the river from the south side of the Bridge 
is very picturesque. Of the Castle, which was a place of im- 
portance in the time of the Welsh princes, no vestiges remain. 
It was situated on the banks of the Wye, at the extremity of a 
small common called Maes-bach. 

The Market is held on Wednesday. Inns. The Red Lion, 
the Royal Oak. 

CWM ELIAN, 

About five miles from Rhaiadyr, on the left of the road towards j 



RHUDDLAN. 285 

| 

$ the Devil's Bridge, is a handsome modern mansion, erected by 
ij Thomas Grove, Esq., who some years ago purchased 10,000 
..-! acres of uncultivated waste, and converted them into the present 
I noble domain. Its name is derived from the little torrent 
J Elian, or Elan, which runs through the grounds, and gives great 
variety to the scenery. The beauties of this place have been 
described in Mr. Bowles' poem entitled " Coombe Elian." 

ABBEY CWM HIR, 

i About seven miles north-east of Rhaiadyr, was founded for 
Cistercian monks by Cadwathelan ap Madoc, in 1143, but 
scarcely any remains of it exist. Its situation was remarkably 
retired : it stood at the bottom of a valley, around which the 
hills rise in the form of an amphitheatre. To the north is a 
stupendous hill, with a gradual ascent on one side, called the 
Park, formerly nine miles in circumference, and stocked with 
deer. To the south is Birch Hill, so called from the trees 
growing on it. 

RHUDDLAN, 

IN FLINTSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Abergeley 5 Holywell 11 

Diserth 2* St. Asaph • 5 

Or Rhyddlan, was formerly the largest and most respectable 
town in North Wales, but is now an insignificant village. It is 
situated on the east bank of the river Clwyd, about two miles 
from its entrance into the sea. Vessels of seventy tons can 
come up to the Bridge at high water. 

Rhuddlan has the ruins of a Castle. It was a quadran- 
gular building of red stone, with six towers, several of which 
remain tolerably entire. The whole is surrounded by a deep 
entrenchment, faced towards the river side with stone. This 
castle was originally erected by Robert de Rodelent, and 
rebuilt by Henry II. Edward I. spent a considerable portion 



286 ross. 

of his time here during his contest with the Welsh princes. It 
was at the time of his residence that David the brother of 
Llewelyn was brought in here as a prisoner, and thence sent ; 
to Shrewsbury, where he was executed. He is supposed to 
have been the first person ever sentenced to be hung, drawn, 
and quartered for treason. Here, also, Edward spent three 
subsequent Christmases, and held a parliament in 1283. Ther 
house in which this court assembled is still to be seen, and has 
lately had an inscription placed in it recording the event. One 
of the daughters of Queen Eleanor was born here, and Richard 
II. dined at this castle on his way to Flint. During the Civil 
War the fortress was captured by General Mytton in 1646, and 
soon after dismantled. 

To the south is a mount called Tut Hill, from which, it is 
said, the Castle was battered. In the town, also, is shewn the 
vestige of a house where Edward I. held the parliament which 
passed the code of laws called the Statute of Rhuddland. 

Morfa Rhuddlan, a large marsh below the town, is noted 
for the victory which Offa, king of Mercia, obtained over the 
Welsh under Caradoc in 795. It was on this occasion that the 
plaintive Welsh air of Morfa Rhuddlan was composed. 

At the mouth of the river below Rhuddlan is a port, from 
which a considerable quantity of corn and timber is annually 
exported. 

Inn. The Black. 



On the sea-shore near Rhuddlan, consists of a neat Inn and a 
few lodging-houses erected for the accommodation of bathers. 



ROSS, 

IN HEREFORDSHIRE, 

Distant fi-om Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Gloucester 16£ Ledbury 12J 

Goodrich Castle 4J London 120 

Hereford 14i Monmouth 10J 

Is a town of great antiquity, situated on an eminence which 






; 



ross. 287 

rises gently from the east bank of the Wye. The streets are 
narrow and inconvenient, and the Town-hall, built by John 
Abel in the reign of Charles II., is in the very worst style of 
I Saxon architecture. The population is upwards of 2000. 
J Ross is chiefly celebrated as having been the residence of 
,j Mr. John Kyrle, whose benevolence and public spirit are com- 
i meraorated in the well-known lines of Pope, commencing — 

ri 

i" All our praises why should lords engross ? 
Rise, honest Muse, and sing the Man of Ross." 

This gentleman was born in 1637, served the office of sheriff 
J in 1683, and died in 1724. The House in which he resided is 
situated opposite to the Market-house. 

The Church is a handsome building, with a well-propor- 
tioned spire. In the chancel is a mural monument, erected to 
the memory of the Man of Ross in 1 776, 300/. having been 
bequeathed for this purpose by Lady Kinnoul. It consists of 
ill a bust of Mr. Kyrle, and figures of Charity and Benevolence, 
d the whole executed by Mr. W. Marsh. Mr. Kyrle was buried 
just beneath it. 

In one corner of the church are two elm-trees, growing up 
by the side of the pews, and springing from a tree on the out- 
side, which is said to have been planted by Mr. Kyrle. 

There are several monuments of the Rudhale family, one 
of whom, represented standing in armour, defended Hereford 
against Cromwell. There is also a well-executed bust of Mr. 
Brereton, by Theed. 

At the corner of the churchyard nearest to the town is a 
small stone bearing the date 1637, when Ross was visited by 
the Plague. 

The Prospect Ground adjoining the Churchyard is a quad- 
rangular promenade, surrounded by a dwarf wall, laid out by 
Mr. Kyrle in 1700. The view from this spot is remarkably 
beautiful, commanding a lovely vale adorned with the majestic 
meanderings of the Wye, the castles of Wilton and Bridstow, 
numerous woods and meadows, and finished in the distance by 
|the mountains of Wales. 



288 RTJABON. 



Ross is the favourite resort for summer parties intending to 
descend the river Wye. Boats for this purpose may be hired 
at the inns. — See Wye. 

Inns. The King's Head, which is an excellent house ; the 
Swan. 

WILTON CASTLE, 



About three-quarters of a mile from Ross, on the banks of thei 1 
Wye, was erected by King Stephen in 1141, and is said to, 
have been destroyed by fire, though the period when this oc-^ 
curred is not ascertained. This castle was once the baronial 
residence of the Greys de Wilton, with whom it remained till, 
the sixteenth century, but now belongs to the Governors ol f 
Guy's Hospital. The mouldering ruins have a very picturesque 
appearance. The south-west tower seems to have experienced- 
little change since the building was altered to the style of the 
fifteenth century. 

The Bridge over the Wye, adjoining the Castle, consists ot 
six arches, and is connected with a causeway leading to Ross i 
It was built in the reign of Elizabeth, but broken down by 
General Rudhale during the Civil Wars, and afterwards, 
repaired. 

ACONBTJRY HILL, 

About ten miles from Ross, on the road to Hereford, command? 
a splendid prospect of the Golden Vale. 

From Ross, also, the tourist may make an excursion tc 
Goodrich Court and Castle. 

RUABON, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Chirk 4i Oswestry 10 

Llangollen 6 Wrexham 5J 

Or Rhiwabon, is a pleasant village, situated on an eminence 
and celebrated for the romautic scenery by which it is sur 
rounded. 



RUABON. 289 

The Church is a very ancient building, containing an organ 
given by the late Sir Watkin Williams Wynne. There are also 
several monuments of the Wynne family : that in memory of 
Sir W. W. Wynne, who was killed by a fall from his horse in 
1749, was executed by Rysbrach. It represents him in the act 
of addressing an assembly. On one side is a likeness of his 
son, and on the other that of his daughter, both kneeling. The 
monument in honour of his wife, Lady Henrietta, was sculptured 
by Nollekens : it represents her in the character of Hope, and 
has been much admired. A small mural tablet denotes the 
burial-place of Dr. David Powell, who translated into English 

| the History of Wales written by Caradoc of Llancarfan. He 

I died in 1590. 

Inn. The Eagles, in sight of which is the park-gate of 
Wynn Stay. The Market-day is Monday. 

WYNN STAY, 

The Seat of Sir Watkin Williams Wynne, is situated close to 
I the village, and is shewn to strangers who ask permission to 
see it. It was in former times the residence of Madoc ap 
Gryffyd Maelor, the founder of Valle Crucis Abbey, and was 
called Watt Stay from Watt's Dyke, an ancient rampart which 
runs through the estate; but when it came into the possession 
of the Wynne family, by the marriage of the heiress of Eyton 
Evans with Sir John Wynne, it received its present appel- 
lation. 

This structure appears to have been erected at differ- 
ent periods, part of it in the sixteenth century by Sir John 
Wynne, and part by the late Sir W. W. Wynne. The interior 
of the modern part contains several spacious apartments 
adorned with portraits. One of Sir Richard Wynne is by 
Vandyke. 

The Park is about eight miles in circumference, and is well 
wooded and stocked with deer. It contains Baths, an artificial 
waterfall, and a beautiful lake ; but the principal ornament is 
the Monument erected to the honour of the late Sir W. W. 
Wynne, by his mother. It was constructed from designs by 
o 



290 RTJTHIX. 

Wyatt, and is a tasteful fluted column of freestone, 1 01 feet in 
height. The base is sixteen feet in height, and the top nine. 
Round the summit, which is surmounted by a bronze urn, is a : 
gallery. The base of the column is encircled with oak leaves. 
On the south-west side is the entrance to the staircase leading ( 
to the gallery, from which there is an extensive prospect. The 
other sides bear inscriptions in Welsh, English, and Latin. 

A beautiful drive, about five miles in extent, leads first to e 
a Tower erected to commemorate the heroes of the Cambrian - 
regiment who fell in their country's cause, under the command , 
of Sir W. W. Wynne, in the Irish rebellion of 1798. From this 
spot there is a fine view of the surrounding mountains and of . 
the meanderings of the Dee. Thence it descends to Nant y . 
Belan, or the Martins Dingle, a deep ravine overhung by J 
precipitous rocks, between which the Dee pursues its rugged 
course. From a rock at the end of the dingle there is a fine > 
view towards the west, embracing the ruins of Dinas Bran and c 
the town of Llangollen, backed by mountains. 

Through this park runs Offas Dyke, or Clawd Offa, thrown 
up by the king of Mercia in 763, as a boundary between thee 
Saxons and Britons. It commences at Basingwerk in Flint- J 
shire, and terminates at Chepstow in Monmouthshire, extending 
over rocks and mountains in a line not less than 150 miles in. * 
length. At this part it is about ten feet high, and broad enough , 
for two carriages for a considerable space, which is called 
Llicybr y Cath, or the Cafs Path. : 



RUTHIN, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Mile*. 

Cerig y Druidion 15 London, by Shrewsbury •• 197 h 

Corwen 13 London, by Chester • 210 

Denbigh 8 Mold 8J 

Llangollen 13| Wrexham 16 

Is a large and tolerably well-built town, situated upon the 



RUTHIN. 291 

; summit and declivity of a considerable hill, near the southern 
:| extremity of the beautiful Vale of Clwyd. This river runs 
i through the place, but is here only a small stream, employed in 
j giving motion to several mills. It is crossed by a strong stone 
»| Bridge. 

On the north side of the town are the remains of the Castle, 

from which it is probable Ruthin took its name, it having been 

called Rhud-Din or Red Fort, from the colour of the stone of 

which it is built. A considerable portion of the site is now a 

Bowling Green. The castle and town walls are supposed to 

have been built by Reginald Grey, to whom Edward I., in 1281, 

« made a grant of this district for his services against the Welsh. 

| It was afterwards sold to Henry VII., and suffered to fall into 

ij decay. In 1400, Owen Glyndwr made an unsuccessful attack 

j upon this fortress, but pillaged the town. The Castle was gar- 

1 risoned for the king during the Civil Wars, and, having surren- 

1 dered to General Mytton in 1645, was dismantled. 

The Church is a handsome building, delightfully situated. 
It contains a monument in memory of Dr. Gabriel Goodman, 
a native of this place, and a celebrated linguist. He was made 
Dean of Westminster, and was employed in the translation of 
the Bible. The Free School of Ruthin, which has produced 
many good classical scholars, was founded by him. The bust 
on the monument is said to be a good likeness. 

Ruthin has a Town-hall, and the County Gaol is situated 
here : the latter was built from designs by Mr. Turner. The 
population amounts to about 1500. The Markets are held on 
Monday and Saturday. 

Inns. The White Lion, the Cross Keys. 

ST. FFYN1ST0N ST. DYVNOG, 

Near Ruthin, on the road towards Denbigh, is a neat little 
village, remarkable for a Well, to which many wonderful pro- 
perties are attributed, though it is chiefly famed for the cure of 
! rheumatism. It is approached by a path across the church- 
■iyard, and through an alms-house, to a plantation of trees. 



292 ST. ASAPH. 



THE VALE OF CLWYD. 

This beautiful and justly celebrated valley commences f 
three or four miles south of Ruthin, and extends northwards ;i 
about twenty miles, varying in breadth from six to eight miles, c 
The south end is closed in by the mountains, but at the north p 
the vale is open to the sea. Throughout its whole extent it i 
presents a rich scene of cultivation, abounding in picturesque i 
beauty, being shut in on both sides by lofty mountains, culti- 
vated at the bottom, and covered with verdure even to the 
summits. In many parts it is broken into knolls and hillocks 
thickly planted with wood, whilst in others it is more open and 
extensive, thus producing an endless variety of scenery. The 
Vale is seen to great advantage from Ruthin. 



ST. ASAPH, 

IN FLINTSHIRE 






Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Abergeley 7 London 217 

Denbigh 5$ Rhuddlan 5 

Holy well 10 

Or Llan Elwy, the Church upon the Elwy, is a small but 
pleasant city, built upon the side of a hill in the Vale of Clwyd. 
The houses are chiefly disposed in one street. The river Clwyd 
passes along one side of the place, and the Elwy on the other : 
over each river is a handsome Bridge. The population is about 
3000. 

The Cathedral was erected at the close of the fifteenth 
century, but the choir has been since rebuilt by the dean and 
chapter. It is a neat structure, consisting of a nave, choir- 
two aisles, and a transept, with a square tower in the centre 
rising 93 feet in height. The length from ea s t to west is 17£ 
feet, the breadth at the transept 108 feet, and at the nav< 
and aisles 68 feet. The nave is 60 feet high. The interior i: 
remarkably neat. It is in the Gothic style, and has a roof o 
chestnut-wood, with open ribs. The east window is an imita 



st. clare, or st. clear's. 293 

! 

| tion of the one in ruins at Tintern Abbey, and is adorned with 

! painted glass by Mr. Egginton, executed at the expense of 

;! Bishop Bagot and the neighbouring gentry, many of whose 

[j arms are placed round it. The principal monument is that of 

J Bishop David ap Owen, who died in 1512. In the churchyard, 

!J near the west door, is the tomb of the celebrated Dr. Isaac 

ij Barrow, who died in 1680. From the tower there is a fine 

I view of the Vale of Clwyd. 

a It is singular that the Cathedral is not used as a parish 

J church, as all the other Welsh cathedrals are. The Parish 

I Church stands at the lower part of the town. The Episcopal 

nl Palace is a handsome modern edifice, having been rebuilt by 

i Bishop Bagot. 

Inn. The White Lion. 



About three miles from St. Asaph, on the road to Abergeley, is 
the seat of Colonel Hughes. It is an elegant modern mansion, 
near the old house, which bore the same name. The park-wall 
and railing extend along the side of the road for some distance. 



ST. CLARE, or ST. CLEAR'S, 

IN CAERMARTHENSHIRE, 

Distant from, Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Caermarthen 9£ Llaugharne 3 

ColdBlow •• 11 Narberth 12£ 

Haverfordwest 23£ Tenby 18J 

Is a small village near the entrance of the river Cathgenny 
into the Taaf. It formerly possessed a Castle and a Priory of 
Cluniac monks, no remains of which now exist. 

Inn. The Blue Boar. 



294 st. david's. 



ST. DAVID'S, 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE, 

Distant from Miles-. Distant from Miles. 

Fishguard 16 London, by Caermarthen-- 364 

Haverfordwest 15 J London, by Cardigan 265 

Is an ancient bat almost deserted city, although it still 
exhibits indications- of its past splendour in its ecclesiastical 
remains. It is situated upon a gentle eminence, near the pro- 
montory called St. David's Head, about two miles from the sea. 
The houses are principally arranged in two rows, composing 
the High Street, which is of considerable width. Near its west 
extremity is an ancient Cross, around which the Market was 
formerly held. The Black Lion Inn furnishes good accommo- 
dation. 

The Cathedral, the Episcopal Palace, and the houses of 
some of the dignitaries, are situated in a deep hollow, and are 
scarcely visible in the town : they were formerly enclosed by 
a wall, 1200 yards in circumference, in which were four gates. 
Porth y Twr, or the Tower Gate, which still forms the principal 
entrance to the Close, is situated at the bottom of High Street. 

The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Andrew and St. David, was 
founded in the sixth century, but has been several times demo- 
lished. According to Giraldus, it was rebuilt in its present 
form in the reign of Henry II. It is a large cruciform struc- 
ture, principally of the early Gothic architecture, though not 
without much of the high-wrought fret-work additions of later 
ages. From the centre, the tower rises 127 feet in height. The 
length of the whole building, within the walls, is 307 feet; of 
the nave, 128 feet; of the choir and chancel, 99 feet. The ' 
breadth of the nave is- 70 feet, and each transept is 47 feet 
by 33. 

The nave, which is the only part that wears the simplicity 
of the original structure, is separated from the side aisles by 
two rows of Saxon arches, placed one above another. The rooi 
is of Irish oak, and its workmanship is much admired. 






st. David's. 295 

Beneath the rood-loft, which separates the nave from the 
choir, are three recumbent figures, one of which represents 
Bishop Gower. 

The Choir is very lofty, and occupies the whole space 
beneath the tower, which is supported by four large arches, 
three Gothic and one Saxon, but all resting on Saxon pillars. 
The Bishop's Throne is remarkably beautiful, and there are 
some grotesque specimens of carving beneath the seats of the 
stalls. 

Beyond the screen separating the choir from the chancel is 
the tomb of Edmund Tudor, Earl of Richmond, and father of 
Henry VII. He was the eldest son of Owen Tudor, by Queen 
Catharine, dowager of Henry V. On the north side of this 
tomb is the Shrine of St. David, having four recesses, in which 
the votaries used to deposit their offerings. The number of 
pilgrims to this shrine was immense : amongst the royal visitors 
were William I., Henry II., Edward I., and Eleanor his queen. 
On the opposite side are the monuments of Archbishop Anselm 
and Bishop Jorwerth, of the thirteenth century; and towards 
the middle of the chancel, those of Rhys ap Gryffydd, prince of 
South Wales, and his son Rhys Grug. 

Beyond the chancel is Bishop Vaughan's Chapel, built by 
him in the reign of Henry VIIL, and exhibiting a fine specimen 
of the florid Gothic style. The roof is of carved stone, and is 
in fine preservation. The Bishop was buried here. 

St. Mary's, or the Lady Chapel, at the extreme eastern end 
of the Cathedral buildings, has been roofless many years. It 
was erected by Bishop Martin. 

Besides those already noticed, the Cathedral contains several 
other ancient monuments. In the north aisle is that of Bishop 
Martin, and in the south aisle a figure of a priest, said to repre- 
sent Giraldus Cambrensis, who was buried here in 1 213. 

On the north side of the Cathedral are some remains of St. 
Mary's College, which was founded in the fourteenth century 
by John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, and Bishop Houghton. 

The Episcopal Palace, situated to the south-west of the 
Cathedral, and on the opposite side of the river Alan, is a 



296 st. david's. 

superb ruin of\Gothic architecture. It seems originally to have 
formed a complete quadrangle, enclosing an area 120 feet 
square, but only two of the sides remain. The grand entrance 
is by a beautiful but ruined gateway. On the east side of the 
court was the Bishop's Hall, sixty-seven feet in length and 
twenty-five in breadth, having to the north of it a drawing-room 
and chapel, and to the south the kitchen, which was thirty-six 
feet by twenty-eight. On the south side of the court is the 
King's Hall, a noble apartment, ninety-six feet by thirty-three, 
at the east end of which is a circular window of curious work- 
manship. This hall is said to have been built expressly for the 
reception of King John, on his return from Ireland in 1211, — a 
statement which is at variance, however, with that made by 
Godwin, who says that the Palace was erected by Bishop 
Gower about 1328. Over an archway which was the entrance, 
are statues of Edward III. and his queen Philippa. The whole 
building was surmounted by a light parapet, raised on arches 
of freestone and enriched with fret-work. 

The precise origin of this city is unknown : it was called by 
the Romans Menevia. St. David, the patron saint of Wales, 
removed the metropolitan see from Caerleon to this place, which 
was henceforth called Ty Ddewi by the Welsh, and St. David's 
by the English. St. David was uncle to King Arthur, and son 
of a Prince of Wales. He occupied the see for sixty-five years, 
founded twelve monasteries, and died in 642, at the extraor- 
dinary age of 146 years. He was buried in the Cathedral 
which he had founded, and canonised many years afterwards 
by Pope Calistus II. 

It was at this city that the Roman road called Julia Strata 
is said to have terminated. 

The environs of St. David's are extremely dreary, and almost 
correspond with the description given of them by Giraldus 
Cambrensis : he says, " The land about this remote angle on 
the Irish Sea is rocky, barren, and fruitless; it is neither clothed 
with wood, varied with rivers, nor beautified with meadows, but 
constantly exposed to storms and tempests." The air here 
is, however, extremely pure, and the winters not so cold as 



ST. David's. 297 

in more inland parts, the city being sheltered from the east 
wind. 

st. david's head, 

About two miles west of the city, is a lofty and barren pro- 
montory, commanding a good view of Whitsand Bay, which is 
called by the Welsh Forth Mawr, or the Great Bay. The 
rocks on this shore are broken into every possible variety of 
form by the turbulence of the ocean. On one of these is to be 
seen the celebrated Rocking Stone, which was so large that it 
is supposed a hundred oxen could not drag it away, although it 
was easily rocked by a single man. The equilibrium was 
destroyed many years ago, by a farmer, in order to prevent 
strangers from injuring his ground. 

st. Justinian's chapel. 

The remains of this chapel, which was built by Bishop 
Vaughan, are situated on the cliffs to the west of St. David's, 
about a mile and a half distant, and to the south of St. David's 
Head. Here those who visited Ramsey Island offered up 
prayers for a safe passage. 

RAMSEY ISLAND 

Is separated from the shore by a strait, about half a league in 
breadth. The whole island is high ground, and at each end is 
a lofty mountain. It is about three miles in length, and a mile 
across at the broadest part. Falcons, puffins, razor-bills, and 
rabbits, abound here, and there is much arable and pasture 
land. One part of the island is called the Organ, and another 
the Choir, from the noise made by the sea-fowl there. 

THE BISHOP AND HIS CLERKS 

Are seven insulated rocks, lying about a league to the'west of 
Ramsey Island. They are frequented by an immense number 
of sea-fowl of various kinds. 



o 2 



298 st. donat's. 



THE SMALLS 

Are about twenty rocks, situated seven leagues from the coast : 
some of them are visible at high tide, and others only appear 
at low water. On one of them is a Light-house, projected by 
Mr. Philips, and executed by Mr. "Whitesides at the end of the 
last century. 

ST. DONAT'S, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bridgend 7 Dunraven 5 

Cowbridge 6 

Is a small village, situated on the Bristol Channel, where 
the shore is bold and rocky. The Castle is a large and irregular 
structure, of considerable beauty, but so surrounded by trees 
that it can only be seen to advantage from some of the heights 
in the neighbouring park. On one of these eminences is a 
watch-tower, commanding a fine view of the Channel, bounded 
by the hills of Somerset and Devon. 

This Castle was erected by the Stradling family, in the reign 
of William II., but little of the original structure remains. The 
additions since made to it are dissimilar in style, and formed on 
no regular plan. The principal court is a polygon, in the walls 
of which are recesses, formerly containing busts of the Roman 
emperors and empresses. The state apartments, now greatly 
decayed, were ornamented with carved work, much in fashion 
in the time of Elizabeth. The property remained in the Strad- 
ling family till 1738, when, owing to the failure of male issue, 
it fell to the Mansels of Margam, into which family the Strad- 
lings had married. 

The Church bears marks of great antiquity, but the date of 
the building is unknown. It contains several tombs of the 
Stradling family. In the churchyard is a Cross, on the top of 
which are remains of a figure of the Virgin on one side, and of 
our Saviour on the Cross, with two females kneeling, on the 



SCRENFRITH CASTLE. — SHREWSBURY. 299 

other. There is also a tomb, with an inscription, in memory of 
Captain Turner and his wife, who were drowned off this coast 
in 1774. 

lantwit Major, or llanilltyd fawr, 

About a mile from St. Donat's, on the road towards Cowbridge, 
is a poor village, but is noted as having been the seat of the 
College founded by St. Illtyd in 508, the principal university 
in Britain till the time of the Norman Invasion. Traces of the 
former importance of this place are still visible, in the remains 
of the Hall of Justice, the School, and the Church. The latter 
exhibits some curious monumental crosses, and in the vestry is 
a gigantic figure of Prince Richard Hopkins. 

SCRENFRITH CASTLE, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Abergavenny 10 Monmouth 6 

Grosmont 5 

This fortress is seldom visited by travellers, on account of 
the difficulty of access to it, both for carriages and horses, but 
it is remarkable as the oldest castle in Monmouthshire. It is 
certainly of British origin, and probably of as remote antiquity 
as any in Wales. It is situated in a very retired spot, on the 
banks of the Monnow, surrounded by high hills. 



IN SHROPSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bishop's Castle 21 Ludlow 30 

Ellesmere 16 Montgomery 22 

Llan y Mynach 17 Oswestry 18 

London, by Birmingham • • 153 Welshpool 18J 

London, by Kidderminster . . 160 

This town is generally selected as the station from which to 
commence a Tour of North Wales, its situation on the great 
high road to Holyhead rendering it favourable for this purpose. 



300 SNOWDON. 

There are also stages from this place to Aberystwith, Barmouth, 
Chester, Worcester, &c. 

Shrewsbury is situated on a peninsula formed by the Severn. 
The principal objects worthy of notice are the Churches, the 
Quarry Walk (a very beautiful promenade), the Grammar 
School, the Castle, and the Town-hall. For a more minute 
description, see " Leigh's Road-Book of England." 

Inns. The Talbot, the Lion, the Raven and Bell, the Fox. 

HAWKSTONE, 

The seat of the Hill family, about ten miles from Shrewsbury, 
is celebrated for its extraordinary combination of natural and 
artificial beauties. The mansion is an elegant modern edifice, 
and the grounds present innumerable objects of interest. 

The Hawkstone hotel, situated on the edge of the grounds, 
affords good accommodation to persons visiting this enchanting 
spot. 

THE WREKIN, 

About ten miles south-east of Shrewsbury, is a lofty hill, rising 
1320 feet above the level of the sea. The summit commands 
an extensive and beautiful prospect. 

SNOWDON, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. THE SUMMIT IS 



Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Beddgelart 6 Dolbadern Castle 

Caernarvon, by Dolbadern Llyn C welly n 4 

Castle, or by Llyn C wellyn 1 1 



: 



The etymology of Snowdon, or Eryri, has given rise to 
various ingenious conjectures. Snowdon is evidently derived 
from the Saxon, and denotes a snowy hill, or hill covered with 
snow, which is not uncommon here even in the month of June. 
The W r elsh name Eryri is derived, by some, from Mynydd Ery- 
rod, the hill of eagles, and by others, from a compound of Welsh 
words, Cereig yr au Eira, or Snowy Cliffs. 



SNOWDON. 301 

The range of mountains of which Snowdon forms the loftiest 
summit, commences with Penmaen Mawr, at the north extre- 
mity of Caernarvonshire, and extending across the county in a 
south-west direction, terminates in the triple-peaked Reifel, the 
base of which descends to the shores of Caernarvon Bay. The 
length of this range, following the zigzag direction of the ridge 
along its summit, is about forty miles. 

The summit of Snowdon is 3571 feet above the level of the 
sea, and is so frequently enveloped in clouds and mists as 
grievously to disappoint the traveller's expectations. When, 
however, the weather proves favourable, the view is beautiful 
beyond description. There are various modes of ascent, of 
which we shall endeavour to give an account. Guides may be 
procured at Beddgelart, Llyn Cwellyn, Dolbadern, Llanberis, 
and Capel Curig. The ascents from Beddgelart and Llyn 
Cwellyn are the most frequented, although the latter route is 
boggy and wet in some places, and rocky and stony in others. 

The tourist should take with him a basket of provisions, 
including some brandy, or rum and milk, as the mountain air 
will give keenness to his appetite, and at the summit is remark- 
ably cold. The cordial, however, should be taken cautiously, 
as a very small quantity, owing to the rarefaction of the air at 
this height, will affect the head. 

ASCENT FROM BEDDGELART, BY REV. W. BINGLEY. 

" The distance to the summit of Snowdon hence being 
reckoned not less than six miles, and a lady being one of the 
party, it was thought best for her to ride as far as she could 
without danger, and for the rest to walk. In this manner, 
therefore, we set out, beginning our mountain journey by turn- 
ing to the right from the Caernarvon road, at the distance of 
about two miles and a half from the village. We left the horse 
at a cottage about half way up, whence, taking a bottle of milk 
to mix with some rum we had brought with us, we continued 
our route over a series of pointed and craggy rocks. Stopping 
at different times to rest, we enjoyed to the utmost the prospects 
which by degrees were opening around us. Caernarvon and 



302 SNOWDON. 

the Isle of Anglesea, aided by the brightness of the morning, 
were seen to great advantage; and Llyn Cwellyn below us, 
shaded by the vast Mynydd Mawr, with Castell Cidwm at its , 
foot, appeared extremely beautiful. In ascending, the moun- , 
tains, which from below seemed of an immense height, began , 
now to appear beneath us ; the lakes and valleys became more ( 
exposed, and the little rills and mountain streams by degrees , 
became all visible to us, like silver lines intersecting the hollows 
around. I 

" We now approached a most tremendous ridge, over which 
we had to pass, called Clawdd Coch, or the red ridge or ram- r 
part. This narrow pass, not more than ten or twelve feet across, [ 
and two or three hundred yards in length, was so steep that the ; 
eye reached on each side down the whole extent of the moun- , 
tain ; and I am firmly persuaded that, in some parts of it, if a , 
person held a large stone in each hand, and let them both fall 
at once, each would roll above a quarter of a mile, and thus, 
when they stopped, be more than half a mile asunder. The 
lady who was with us passed this ridge without the smallest 
signs of fear or trepidation. In the hollow on the left are four 
small pools, called Llyn Cock, the red pool ; Llyn y Nadroedd, 
the adder's pool ; Llyn Gwas, the blue pool ; and Llyn Ffyn- 
nony Gwas, the servant's pool. 

" Soon after we had passed Clawdd Coch, we became 
immersed in light clouds till we arrived at the summit, when a - 
single gleam of sunshine, which lasted but for a moment, pre- 
sented us with the majestic scenery on the west. It, however, 
only served to tantalise us, for a smart gust of wind obscured |j 
us again in clouds. We now sheltered ourselves from the cold 
under some of the projecting rocks near the top, and ate our 
dinners, watching with anxiety the dark shades in the clouds, 
in hopes that a separation might take place, and we be once 
more delighted with a sight of the grandeur around us. We 
did not wait in vain ; for the clouds by degrees cleared away, 
and left us at full liberty to admire the numerous beauties in 
this vast expansive scene. The steep rock of Clogwyn y Gar- 
neddf the dreadful precipices of which are some of them above 



9N0WD0N* 303 

200 yards in perpendicular height, and the whole rock, a series 
of precipices, was an object which first struck my companions 
with terror. We now stood on a point which commanded the 
whole dome of the sky. The prospects below, each of which 
we had before considered separately as a great scene, were now 
only miniature parts of the immense landscape. We had around 
us such a numerous variety of mountains, valleys, lakes, and 
streams, each receding behind the other, and bounded only by 
the far-distant horizon, that the eye almost strained itself with 
looking upon them. These majestic prospects were soon shut 
from our sight by the gathering clouds, which now began to 
■j close in much heavier than they had done before, and it was in 
vain that we waited nearly an hour for another opening : we 
were, therefore, at length obliged to descend, despairing of 
being gratified any more with these sublime views. 

" We again passed Clawdd Coch, and soon afterwards, 
turning to the left, descended into the mountain vale called 
Cwm Lldn, and followed the course of a stream which runs 
thence into Llyn y Dinas in Gwynant. This little rivulet 
entertained us much in its descent, by being frequently thrown 
over low rocks, and forming small but sometimes elegant cas- 
cades. After two hours' walking, we came into the pleasing 
vale of Nant Gwynant, the vale I had with so much pleasure 
traversed a day or two before ; and passing Llyn y Dinas and 
Dinas Emrys, we soon reached Beddgelart, somewhat fatigued 
with our long walk." 

The ascent from Beddgelart to the summit of Snowdon, 
allowing leisure to view the various prospects, usually occupies 
about five hours, though it may be accomplished in less time. 

ASCENT FROM CAERNARVON, BY DOLBADERN. 

From Caernarvon the tourist had better proceed to Dolba- 
dern, by the excellent carriage-road completed in 1828.- It was 
formerly the custom to go in a carriage only as far as Cym y 
glo Llanrug, and there take a boat up the Lower Llanberis 
Lake, to the neck of land between the two lakes: the new 
road, however, has superseded this plan. At the Inn at 



304 SNOWDON. 

Dolbadern the tourist must procure a guide, the charge for 
which is seven shillings. Ponies are charged five shillings 
each. The ascent by this route is so gradual, that a person 
mounted on a Welsh pony may, without much difficulty, ride 
up nearly to the top in about four hours. 

From Dolbadern the tourist must ascend by the waterfall of 
Caunant Mawr, and thence along the vale of Cwm Brwynog, 
till he arrives in sight of the black and almost perpendicular ! 
rock called Clogwyn Du Yr Arddu, at the bottom of which is 
a small lake. Leaving this rock about a quarter of a mile to 
the right, he ascends a steep place called Llechwedd y Re, and 
proceeds to the Well, which is within a mile of the highest peak 
of Snowdon, called Yr Wyddfa, the conspicuous. The remain- 
der of the ascent is tolerably smooth. 

ASCENT FROM CAERNARVON OR BEDDGELART, BY LLYN 
CLWELLYN. 

Llyn Clu;ellyn, seven miles from Caernarvon and five from 
Beddgelart, has been already noticed. — See Beddgelart. 

Upon its banks is a small public-house, where guides and 
ponies may be procured for the ascent. The charge for each 
pony is five shillings, and the guide expects from seven to ten 
shillings for attending a single person, or a party five shillings 
each. A person must also go to take charge of the ponies when 
the steepness prevents their proceeding any farther, which is 
within about half a mile of the summit. The whole distance, 
from the Guide's House to the top, is about four miles. 

THE SUMMIT OF SNOWDON 

Is not more than seven yards in diameter, and is surrounded by 
a dwarf wall, which forms some slight protection against the 
wind to which this height is exposed. 

" The mountain from the summit," says Mr. Pennant, 
" seems propped by four buttresses, between which are four 
deep cwms, or hollows ; each, excepting one, had one or more 
lakes lodged in its distant bottom. The nearest was Ffynnon 
Lids, or the green well, lying immediately below ; the waters 



SNOWDON. 305 

of which, from this elevation, appeared black and unfathom- 
able, and the edges quite green. Thence is a succession of 
bottoms, surrounded by the most lofty and rugged hills, the 
greatest part of the sides of which are quite mural, and form a 
most magnificent amphitheatre. The Wyddfa is on one side ; 
Crib y Distyll, with its serrated tops, on another ; Crib Coch, 
a ridge of fiery redness, appears beneath the preceding ; and 
opposite to it, is the boundary called the Llechwedd. Another 
very singular support is Y Clawdd Coch, rising into a sharp 
ridge. The view from this exalted situation is unbounded. I 
saw from it the county of Chester, the high hills of Yorkshire, 
part of the North of England, Scotland, and Ireland ; a plain 
view of the Isle of Man and that of Anglesea, lay extended 
like a map beneath us, with every rivulet visible." 

The view from the summit has been thus described by the 
Author of the " Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of 
Nature :"— 

"From this point are seen more than five and twenty lakes. 
Seated on one of the crags, it was long before the eye, unac- 
customed to measure such elevations, could accommodate itself 
to scenes so admirable : — the whole appearing as if there had 
been a war of the elements ; and as if we were the only inha- 
bitants of the globe permitted to contemplate the ruins of the 
world. Rocks and mountains, which, when observed from 
below, bear all the evidences of sublimity, when viewed from 
the summit of Snowdon, are blended with others as dark, as 
rugged, and as elevated as themselves; the whole resembling 
the swellings of an agitated ocean. 

"The extent of this prospect appears almost * unlimited. 
The four kingdoms are seen at once, Wales, England, Scot- 
land, and Ireland ! forming the finest panorama the empire can 
boast. The circle begins with the mountains of Cumberland 
and Westmoreland ; those of Ingleborough and Penygent, in 
the county of York, and the hills of Lancashire forefollow : 
J then are observed the counties of Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and 
j a portion of Montgomeryshire. Nearly the whole of Merioneth 
j succeeds ; and, drawing a line with the eye along the diameter 



306 



STRATA FLORIDA ABBEY. 



of the circle, we take in the regions stretching from the triple 
crown of Cader Idris to the sterile crags of Carnedds David, 
and Llewelyn. Snowdon rising in the centre appears as if he y 
could touch the south with his right hand, and the north with [' 
his left. ' Surely/ thought Colonna, ' Caesar sat upon these f 
crags when he formed the daring conception of governing the 
world V 

" From Cader Idris, the eye, pursuing the orbit of the bold \, 
geographical outline, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and 
reposes for a while on the summit of the Rivel. After ob- 
serving the indented shores of Caernarvonshire, it travels over . 
a long line of ocean, till, in the extremity of the horizon, the 
blue mountains of Wicklow terminate the perspective. Those 
mountains gradually sink along the coast till they are lost to 
the eye ; which, ranging along the expanse, at length, as weary 
of the journey, reposes on the Island of Man and the distant 
mountains of Scotland. The intermediate space is occupied 
by the sides and summits of mountains, hollow crags, masses 
of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, the fields of Anglesea, with 
woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in magnificent confusion. 
A scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as it were, in 
unison to its grandeur and sublimity : the thrill of astonish- 
ment and the transport of admiration seem to contend for the 
mastery; and nerves are touched that never thrilled before. . 
We seem as if our former existence were annihilated, and as if 
a new epoch were commenced. Another world opens upon 
us, and an unlimited orbit appears to display itself as a theatre 
for our ambition." 

STRATA FLORIDA ABBEY, 

IN CARDIGANSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberystwith 16 Hafod 5 

Devil's Bridge 10 Tregaron 5 

Or Ystrad Flur Abbey, is situated in a very retired spot, ' 
near one of the sources of the Teivy. The original structure 



STRATA FLORIDA ABBEY. 307 

was founded by Rhys ap Griffith, Prince of South Wales, in 
1164, but for what order of monks, historians are not agreed; 
some say for Cluniacs, and others for Cistercians. It was 
situated about two miles south-west of the present edifice, on a 
plain near the river Flur, where there still remains a barn 
called Hen Monachlog, or the Old Abbey. 

The present Abbey was erected about 1294, in the reign of 
Edward I. All that now remains is the west entrance of the 
Church, a fine specimen of the Saxon arch, and a Gothic 
window of the south aisle. 

Strata Florida shared with Conway in the favour and mu- 
nificence of the Welsh Princes, and was the depository of the 
records respecting their transactions from 1156 to 1270. It 
was likewise the burial-place of many of the Welsh Princes and 
Abbots, though no fragments of their tombs exist. 

Ystrad Flur signifies the plain near the Flur, and the more 
general appellation of Strata Florida, or Blooming Plain, has a 
similar derivation, ji'u.r being translated blooming, a charac- 
teristic of the country through which the river passed, when 
contrasted with the dreary aspect of the neighbouring hills. 

LLYN TEIVY, OR TEIVY LAKE, 

Is situated on a mountain, about two miles north-east of Strata 
Florida, but, as there is no path to it, the tourist should pro- 
cure a guide. This lake is the source of the river Teivy, and 
is about a mile and a half in circumference. It is said to be 
unfathomable, and is surrounded by a high and perpendicular 
ridge. On the same mountain, but higher up, are several 
other lakes of inferior size. These are supposed by some 
persons to have been craters ; but the stones, with which the 
margins of all these lakes abound, bear at present no volcanic 
appearance. They contain trout and eels, and are much fre- 
quented by wild fowl. The summit of the mountain on which 
they are situated is the highest ground in Cardiganshire. The 
J prospect is extensive but dreary. 



308 STRIGUIL CASTLE. SWANSEA. 



YSTRAD MEIRIG, 

About four miles from Strata Florida, and five from Tregaron, 
is a small village, noted for its ancient grammar-school. 

STRIGUIL CASTLE, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caerwent 5£ Usk 3 

Or Troggy Castle, is situated at the foot of Pencamawr, 
and at the junction of two small streams, called the Striguil and ' 
the Troggy, the united waters of which fall into the Usk. The ' 
remains of this fortress are so covered with ivy, and the \ 
pendant foliage of wide-spreading trees, that the character of ' 
its architecture can with difficulty be distinguished. Leland l 
and Camden suppose it to have been erected prior to the ! 
Conquest, but part of it is much later. 

PENCAMAWR 

Is a remarkable eminence in the long ridge of hills which 
crosses Monmouthshire. The view from the summit is very 
extensive, embracing, towards the north, the mountains about 
Abergavenny, and to the south, the British Channel. 

SWANSEA, 

IN GLAMORGANSHIRE. 

Distantfrom Miles. Distantfrom Miles. 

Briton Ferry 6 London 205 

Caermarthen 26i Neath 8£ 

Llandilo Yawr • 23 PontarDulas 9 

Lloughor 6 

Swansea, formerly called Abertawe, from its situation near 
the mouth of the river Tawe, is a sea-port town, with upwards 
of 10,000 inhabitants. It stands near the centre of a beautiful 
bay of the Bristol Channel, on an angle between two hills, 
which shelter it from the north-east and north-west winds. ' 



SWANSEA. 309 

The air is mild, and the soil, for a considerable depth, gravelly. 
Some of the streets are modern, wide, and well built, but 
others are old, narrow, and irregular. They are lighted with 
gas, and the principal have good broad foot-paths. 

The Town-Hall, near the south end of the town, is a hand- 
some stone building, erected in 1829. It is approached by 
two flights of steps, and adorned with columns of the Doric 
order. 

The Castle, situated nearly in the centre of the town, was 
formerly a building of great extent. The principal part re- 
maining is a massive tower, surmounted by a range of light 
arches, which support a parapet, in the same style as those at 
Lamphey Court and St. David's. This building was erected 
in 1113, by Henry Beaumont, Earl of Warwick, a Norman 
leader, who conquered Gowerland, but was soon after besieged 
by Griffith ap Rhys ap Theodore, and a considerable portion 
of the out-works destroyed. It is now the property of the 
Duke of Beaufort. 

Adjoining the Castle is the New Market, built in 1774. 
The Market-place for corn, fish, and vegetables, is between 
Wind Street and Castle Street. It is supported by ten pillars 
of freestone, and the roof is covered with lead from St. David's 
Cathedral, which Cromwell gave to a gentleman of this town. 
The Market is held on Wednesday and Saturday, but prin- 
cipally on the latter day. 

The Parish Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is at the lower 
end of St. Mary's Street. It was rebuilt about the middle of 
the last century, and contains some ancient monuments taken 
out of the old church. St. John's Church, near the north end 
of High Street, was rebuilt in 1825. Various classes of dis- 
senters also possess places of worship in Swansea. The Inde- 
pendent Meeting-House is in Castle Street; the W-esleyan 
Methodist in Goat Street; the Unitarian in High Street; the 
* Baptist in Back Lane; Lady Huntingdon's in the Burrows; 
'! the Quakers on the Strand ; and, besides these, there are several 
others. The Roman Catholic Chapel is in Nelson Terrace, and 
the Jew's Synagogue in the White Walls. 



310 



SWANSEA. 



Swansea also possesses an excellent House of Industry and 
Infirmary, established in 1817, and situated on the Beach; a 
Free Grammar School, founded by Hugh Bishop of Waterford 
and Lismore, in the seventeenth century, now kept at Mount 
Pleasant ; as well as Lancasterian and National Schools. 

This town has for many years been resorted to as a bathing- 
place, for which the shore is admirably adapted. There are also 
several warm sea-water and vapour baths, bathing machines, 
circulating libraries, public rooms, billiard tables, reading rooms 
and other attractions for visitors. The inhabitants of Swansea 
have, however, the reputation of paying a strict attention to 
their own interests, and the stranger will find a residence here 
for a short time quite as expensive as at any other watering 
place. But during the winter months the lodgings are con- 
siderably lower in price, and many families then resort hither 
from other parts of Wales. 

The rides and walks in the vicinity are numerous and [ 
pleasing, and aquatic excursions are frequently made to the 
Mumbles and other places on the coast. There are also annual 
boat races and sailing matches, and horse races held on Crymlyn 
Burrows, about two miles east of the town. 

The Theatre, in Goat Street, was built in 1806. The 
season commences towards the end of June, and usually 
terminates in October. In this street the celebrated Beau' 
Nash was born, but the house is no longer standing. It was 
situated at the corner of College Street. Gower, the con- 
temporary of Chaucer, is supposed by some authors to have 
been a native of Swansea^ 

The Public Rooms stand on the north side of the pro- 
menade called the Burrows, which consists of about four acres," 
laid out in parterres. 

Swansea carries on a very extensive trade, as the neigh- 
bouring vale abounds with coal, culm, flags, fire-clay, lime, 
iron, and rotten stone ; and there are numerous manufactories 
for iron, copper, brass, tin, and earthenware. Upwards ol 
100,000 chaldrons of coals are annually exported. 

The Cambrian and Glamorgan Potteries, on the banks of 



f 






SWANSEA. 311 

the river, near the north end of the town, have been a long 
time established. The process of manufacture will interest the 
stranger who has not witnessed any thing of this kind. 

The Copper Works are also situated on the side of the 
river, but about a mile and a half from the town. The face of 
the country in their vicinity is literally scorched up by the 
desolating nature of the copper smoke, which is strongly im- 
! pregnated with sulphur, arsenic, &c. Notwithstanding, how- 
ever, the deleterious effects of such an atmosphere, many of 
the people employed in these works attain a great age. There 
are eight large copper-smelting establishments, besides several 
I rolling mills, and innumerable coal-pits, which contribute their 
mineral treasures to the support of the former. The largest of 
the copper -works is said to consume 40,000 tons of coals 
annually. The first smelting works were established at Swan- 
sea about a century ago, but the business has so increased, that 
it is calculated that not fewer than 10,000 persons are now em- 
ployed in the works and the collieries, and shipping connected 
I with them. 

At Landore, about two miles from Swansea, is a large 
steam-engine, constructed by Messrs. Boulton and Watt, and 
formerly much celebrated for its powers. It has, however, 
been since excelled by some of the Cornwall engines. This 
pumping engine draws the water from the collieries in the 
Vale of the Tawe, throwing up one hundred gallons at each 
stroke : it makes twelve strokes in a minute, and consequently 
discharges 72,000 gallons an hour. 

The Harbour is defended by two stone piers, about 1800 
feet in length, and is capable of protecting a great many 
vessels. On the west pier is a Light-House and Watch- 
Tower. The tide flows a considerable way up the river Tawe, 
which is navigable for vessels of burden for about two miles. 

The Swansea Canal extends from the town parallel with 
j the river Tawe as far as Hen-noyadd, in Brecknockshire, a 
j distance of sixteen miles. Its head is 372 feet higher than the 
'mouth; and in its course the canal passes through thirty-six 
'locks and over several aqueducts. There is also a Canal 



312 SWANSEA. 

from the Swansea to the Neath Canal, on which a packet-boat 
is established ; and a Tram Road from the former to Oyster- 
mouth. 

Inns. The Mackworth Arms, in Wind Street ; the Bush, in 
High Street; the Wheat Sheaf, in Castle Street; the Talbot 
Arms, in Butter Street ; and the Cambrian Hotel, facing the 
Harbour. 

Steam- Vessels go regularly from Swansea to Bristol two or 
three times a-week, and usually perform the voyage in about 
eight hours. The time of starting is regulated by the state of 
the tide. The fare in the principal cabin is about 5s., and in 
the steerage half that sum; a four-wheel carriage, 1/.; a two- 
wheel carriage, 10s.; a horse, 10s. 

There is also a Steam-Vessel once or twice a week to Ilfra- 
combe, in Devonshire, starting according to the tide. 

MORRISTOWN, 

Situated on the west bank of the Tawe, about three miles from 
Swansea, is a large village, chiefly inhabited by persons em- 
ployed in the adjacent copper-works and collieries. It was 
built at the commencement of the present century by Sir John 
Morris, from whom it takes its name. 

GOWER. 

The district which bears the name of Gower is a peninsula 
of Glamorganshire, situated to the west of Swansea. It v 
conquered in the beginning of the reign of Henry I., by Henry" 
de Beaumont, Earl of Warwick, and peopled by a colony of 
Flemings, who had been compelled to quit their own country 
by an encroachment of the sea. For a long time these co- 
lonists retained their own language, manners, and customs ;. 
and the inhabitants of Gower still differ very much from theit 
Welsh neighbours. The women wear whittles or shawls made 
of fine wool, and dyed scarlet. The circumference of Gower is 
between forty and fifty miles. The scenery is not so pretty as 
other parts of Glamorganshire ; but the ruins of old castles and. 
the sea views render it interesting. 



TALYLLYN. 313 

The tourist may make an excursion into this district, com- 
mencing at Swansea, and visiting Oystermouth Castle and 
Village, the Mumbles, Caswell Bay, Pennarth, beyond which 

I is the Gower Arms Inn, situated nearly in the centre of Gower, 

i Penrice, Oxwich, Arthur's Stone, &c. 

TALYLLYN, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Dolgelley 7i Towyn 9 

lj Machynlleth 10 

That is, the Head of the Pool, is a small village, situated in 
a pretty valley at the base of Cader Idris. To the east of it is 
Llyn Talyllyn, a picturesque lake, about a mile in length, 
which contracts, at the western extremity, into the form of a 
river, and rushes through a stone arch into a narrow pass, 
having on one side the church, and on the other some cottages 
interspersed with trees. A guide to ascend Cader Idris from 
this place may be obtained at the Blue Lion. 

About three miles from Talyllyn, on the right of the road 
towards Dolgelley, is Llyn Teigraienyn, or Pool of the Three 
Grains, a small lake abounding with fish. It derives its name 
from three large rocks which have fallen from the adjacent 
mountain. These, however, the peasants assert, were three 
grains which the Giant Idris here threw out of his shoe, as he 
found them troublesome in walking. 

From Talyllyn an excursion maybe made to Craig y Deryn, 
J or the Rock of Birds, about four miles distant, on the right of 
| the road towards Towyn. It will form a fine subject for the 
j artist. It is haunted by multitudes of rock-pigeons, cormo- 
! rants, hawks, and other birds. 

About four miles from Talyllyn the road towards Ma- 
i chynlleth enters the valley of the Dyflas. This river is a 
j roaring cataract, parallel with the road for several miles, during 
; which it forms innumerable petty cascades, and one or two of 
j considerable importance. 



314 TAN Y BWLCH. TENBY. 

TAN Y BWLCH, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles 

Beddgelart « 8| Maentwrog ** £ 

Festiniog 2f Pont Aberglaslyn 7£ 

Harlech 10 Tremadoc 6* 

Tan y Bwlch, that is, Under the Pass, is a handsome Inn j 
and Posting-House, most delightfully situated in the Vale of x 
Maentwrog. From this place the tourist may make excursions 
to Festiniog and Maentwrog. Thence also the hardy pe- 
destrian may ascend Mod Wyn, which is about three miles j 
distant. It consists of two mountains, the highest of which 
rises 2566 feet above the level of the sea, and the other 2372 
feet. Fine views will be obtained in the ascent. Cnicht, a 
little to the north of Moel Wyn, is another mountain 2272 feet 
in height. The descent may be made to Festiniog, which is 
about four miles from the summit, passing by Llyn Cwmorthin, 
and by the side of the stream, which leaves this lake, and makes 
several pretty falls in its passage. 

Tan y Bwlch Hall, the seat of Mr. Oakley, is a handsome 
mansion, surrounded by a thick wood, which covers a steep 
mountain. 

TENBY, 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caermarthen, by Cold Blow 28 London, by Oxford • ••*.• 244 

Carew 6J Manorbeer 6 

Cold Blow 7J Narberth 9J 

Haverfordwest, by Narberth 20£ Pembroke 10 

Llaugharne 16 St. Clare 18J 



London, by Bristol- 



Or Dynbych y Pysgod, that is, the Precipice of Fishes, ob- ) 
tained this appellation from its peculiar advantages as a fishing- 
town. It was originally founded by the Flemings, who settled 
in Pembrokeshire during the twelfth century, but the period 



TENBY. 315 

when the present town was built has not been ascertained. It 
was a port of considerable commerce previous to the time of 
Elizabeth, and during her reign was esteemed an important 
military post. From that period it declined greatly, and was 
at length almost deserted ; but since the close of the last 
century it has revived, and become a fashionable resort during 
the summer months. 

The principal advantages of Tenby as a watering-place are, 
the variety of its aspects, the clearness of the water, which 
flows immediately from the Western Ocean, unpolluted by the 
discharge of any river, the firmness and extent of its sands, the 
purity of its air, and its freedom from the smoke of manu- 
factories and the bustle of more frequented sea-ports. To the 
painter, the naturalist, and the antiquary, few places can be 
more attractive. The painter will delight in the romantic 
character of the rocks, the various effects of light and shade 
produced by the irregularity of the coast, the numerous spe- 
cimens of a peculiar architecture, and the constant motion of 
vessels in the harbour; whilst the naturalist will inspect the 
minute animals in the crevices of the rocks, the shells, lichens, 
mosses, &c. on the sea shore ; and the antiquary will trace the 
progress of his rude forefathers in a survey of the town walls 
and the ruined castle. 

The view from the Caermarthen road, where the town first 
bursts upon the sight, is particularly beautiful. On the left 
are seen the ruins of the Castle and the Signal Station; in the 
centre, the Church, surmounted by a lofty spire; and to the 
right, a conspicuous windmill, whilst the whole is backed by 
the Isle of Caldy and the Ocean. In fine weather, the coast of 
Devonshire and Lundy Island may be discovered. 

Tenby is singularly situated on the steep ascent of a long 
and narrow rock, which bends in a crescent form to the east- 
ward, and terminates in a narrow peninsula, surmounted by 
the ruins of the castle. The aspect of the principal street is 
J to the north-east. From the Castle Hill the line of coast 
i stretches to the westward, so that the houses on that side of 
l the town enjoy a southern aspect. From the height of its 



!| 



316 



TENBY. 



situation the place is unavoidably exposed to the wind ; but 
though the violence of it is felt, it is seldom attended with 
much cold, except from the north-east. The houses are chiefly 
built of stone, and covered with blue slate. 

On the east side of the rock on which Tenby stands, are 
the Norton Sands, bounded by grand and lofty cliffs of black 
granite. On the south and west sides are the White, or Whit 
Sands, forming a most delightful promenade, two or three 
miles in length, bounded, for a considerable distance, by rocks, 
which are hollowed out by the sea into every imaginable 
shape, and terminated by a bold headland of black granite, 
named Giltar Point. 

Tenby was entirely surrounded by walls, a considerable 
portion of which, defended by towers, still remains, extending 
from the back of the White Lion Inn to the White Sands. At 
a short distance from the south gate is a stone in the wall, 
with this inscription: " A. 1588, E. R. 30," alluding to the 
repairs which took place in the thirtieth year of Queen Eliza- 
beth's reign. 

Of the Castle, the remains are inconsiderable, consisting 
principally of the Keep, or W r atch Tower, on the most elevated 
part of the Castle Hill, apparently a Flemish structure; a 
circular bastion overhanging the cliff; an embattled tower, 
which formed part of the entrance ; and fragments of the wall, 
by which the whole castle was surrounded. 

The views obtained from the Castle Hill are pleasing and 
diversified. Towards the north-east is the beautiful sweep 
formed by Caermarthen Bay, embracing part of the coast of 
Pembrokeshire, the whole shore of Caermarthenshire, and a 
portion of the county of Glamorgan, terminating in a bold 
insulated rock, called the Worm's Head, which is eighteen 
miles distant. Monkstone Point, the only conspicuous head- 
land, is seen two miles distant ; and in fine weather may be 
discerned the white houses of Kidwelly, the Black Mountains 
of Caermarthenshire, forty miles distant, and the smoke of the 
copper- works beyond Swansea. To the west appear the 
church and village of Penally and Giltar Point ; and to the 



TENBY. 317 

south, St. Margaret's Island, Caldy Island, and the whole 
expanse of the Bristol Channel. The Panorama from this spot 
is completed by the baths, the pier, the harbour, and the town 
rising abruptly above them. 

The Church is a large and ancient building, apparently 
erected at different periods. It has a lofty spire of Bath-stone, 
painted white, so that it may serve as a sea-mark. The in- 
terior contains a number of ancient monuments, the most 
remarkable of which are those in memory of John and Thomas 
White, merchants in the fifteenth century, adorned with very 
curious sculpture. The roof of the centre aisle also presents 
some singular carving. 

Outside the church is a small but elegant arch, built about 
the time of Henry VII., and still bearing two shields, con- 
taining his arms as Earl of Richmond and King of England. 
It is remarkable that this and many other ancient arches in 
Tenby are built so low as scarcely to admit any person without 
stooping, although there is no appearance of the earth accumu- 
lating at their foundations. 

At the extremity of the Pier are some remains of St. Julian's 
Chapel, at which, in former times, prayers were offered up 
before the assembled fishermen. 

The Market -Place, erected in 1829, is small but com- 
modious, and has a very neat front. The Market is held on 
Wednesday and Saturday. 

Tenby carries on scarcely any trade, and the vessels seen 
here, with two or three exceptions, belong to other places, and 
only frequent the harbour for shelter, or till they can be laden 
with coals at Sandisfoot. During the- summer, from twelve to 
fifteen vessels belonging to the fishermen of Brixholm and 
Dartmouth lie here, and, acting in partnership, despatch two 
of their company every week to Bristol with the produce of 
their industry. The harbour is capable of sheltering vessels of 
200 or 300 tons. 

The Baths, situated between the Harbour and the Castle 
Hill, were built by Sir William Paxton, from designs by 
Mr. Cockerell. They are very commodiously fitted up, and 



318 TENBY. 

comprise every requisite for the comfort of the visitor, in- 
cluding hot and cold sea-water baths, vapour baths, billiard 
room, reading room, &c. The town is likewise indebted to 
Sir W. Paxton for having furnished it with a supply of ex- 
cellent water, and thus removed the inconvenience under which 
it long laboured from a want of this essential article. 

Tenby possesses a small Theatre, erected in 1818, a Cir- 
culating Library, and a Bowling Green. Visitors also amuse 
themselves by rides and walks in the vicinity, aquatic excur- 
sions, and assemblies. The season commences in June, and 
continues till the latter end of October. 

The principal Inns are, the White Lion, overlooking the 

harbour, and the Cobourg Hotel, at both of which post-chaises 

and horses may be obtained. There is also a Boarding and 

Lodging House, from the terms of which some idea may be 

formed of the expense of living in this part of Wales. 

£. 9. d. 

Board and Lodging, per annum 50 

Ditto, per week, tea, sugar, fire, and candle included 2 8 6 

Any lady or gentleman boarding in the house and lodging out 1 12 

Dinners only 18 

Servant's Board 110 

Private Sitting Rooms « 10 

During the summer there is a Steam-Vessel every week to 
Bristol, usually performing the voyage in twelve hours. 

st. Catherine's rock 
Is separated from the Castle Hill at high water, but may be 
approached across the sands when the tide is out. It is 
surmounted by the ruins of a small Chapel. This bold and 
rugged rock is perforated by a cavern, through which the sea 
beats with great violence. The cavern is only accessible from 
the beach at a spring tide. 

CALDY ISLAND, 

About two miles from the main land, is frequently visited by 
parties from Tenby. It is of irregular form, about a mile in 
length and half a mile in breadth, and contains about 600 



TENBY. 319 

acres. The island was formerly more populous than at pre- 
sent, and contained three religious houses. A portion of one 
of these, attached to a modern mansion, still remains. It 
consists of a small square tower, surmounted by a spire. The 
priory was dependent upon St. Dogmael's Abbey. Caldy 
abounds with sea-fowl. 

st. Margaret's island 
Is disjoined from Caldy at high water, but at spring tides 
there is a passage over a ledge of rocky ground. It is situated 
west of Caldy, and contains a small ruined Monastic cell. It 
is only inhabited by rabbits. 

GILTAR POINT 

Is also frequently visited from Tenby. It is about three miles 
distant. The way to it is through the village of Penally, in 
the churchyard of which is part of an ancient cross. This 
village is delightfully situated on the side of the Burrows, an 
extensive rabbit-warren, covered chiefly with moss and wild 
roses. The Giltar Point projects boldly into the ocean, and 
at its extremity the view borders on the terrific, as the rock 
towards the sea is lofty and almost perpendicular. If the tide 
be out, the tourist may return by the sands to Tenby. 

SANDISFOOT, OR SAUNDERSF00T BAY, 

Is about three or four miles from Tenby, on the north side of 
Caermarthen Bay. Many vessels are employed in conveying 
coals from this place. About a mile from Tenby, on the route 
to Sandisfoot, is a windmill, from which there is a fine view of 
the town and its environs. 

GUMFRESTON, 

About two miles west of Tenby, has a mineral spring, resem- 
bling those at Tunbridge Wells. It is situated in a valley at 
the foot of a steep hill. 



From Tenby, also, excursions may be made to Manorbeer 
Castle, Carew Castle, Pembroke, Laugharne, &c. 



320 



TINTERN ABBEY. 



IN MONMOUTHSHIRE. 



Distant from Miles. Bistantfrom Miles, 

Chepstow 5 Piercefield 3 

Monmouth 10£ Ragland -.. 11 

This interesting ruin is generally considered the most pic- 
turesque object on the banks of the Wye. It occupies a gentle 
eminence in the middle of a circular valley, beautifully 
screened on all sides by woody hills, through which the river 
winds its course. A more pleasing retreat could not easily be 
found. The woods and glades intermixed ; the winding of the 
river ; the variety of the ground ; the splendid ruin, contrasted 
with the objects of nature ; and the elegant line formed by the 
summits of the hills, which include the whole, make altogether 
a very enchanting piece of scenery. 

The principal portion of the ruins is the Church, which has 
been an elegant pile of Gothic architecture. As a distant 
object it is not very striking, but on a nearer approach, when 
the eye can fix upon some of its nobler parts only, it appears a 
very beautiful ruin . It is seen to much greater advantage from 
the road than from the river. 

Entering the western door, the scene bursts upon the spec- 
tator so majestic and sublime that words cannot do it justice. 
The walls are almost entire ; the roof only is fallen in ; but 
most of the columns which divided the aisles are still standing : 
of those which have given way, the bases remain, every one 
exactly in its place ; and in the middle of the nave, four lofty 
arches, which once supported the steeple, rise high above the 
rest, each reduced now to a narrow rim of stone, but com- 
pletely preserving its form. The shapes even of the windows 
are little altered ; but some of them are quite obscured ; others 
partially shaded by tufts of ivy; and those which are most 
clear, are edged with its slender tendrils and lighter foliage, 
wreathing about the sides and divisions. 

The pavement is obliterated ; the elevation of the choir is 



TINTERN ABBEY. 321 

no longer visible ; and the whole area is reduced to one level, 
cleared of rubbish, and covered with neat turf closely shorn. 
Monkish tombstones, and the monuments of benefactors long 
since forgotten, appear above the greensward ; the bases of the 
•pillars which have fallen rise out of it ; and maimed effigies 
and sculptures, worn by time and weather, are scattered about, 
or lie in heaps piled up together. Other shattered pieces, 
though disjointed and mouldering, still occupy their original 
places ; and a staircase, much impaired, which led to a tower, 
-no longer standing, is suspended at a great height uncovered 
and inaccessible. 

The best situation to view the interior is from the right- 
hand corner, soon after you enter the west door. The view 
from this spot, when the sun is shining, or when the har- 
vest moon sheds her beams on the mouldering pile, is truly 
sublime. 

" How many hearts have here grown cold, 

That sleep these mouldering stones among ! 
How many beads have here been told ! 
How many matins here been sung ! 

On this rude stone, by time long broke, 

I think I see some pilgrim kneel, 
I think I see the censer smoke, 

I think I hear the solemn peal. 

But here no more soft music floats, 

No holy anthems chanted now ; 
All hush'd, except the ring-dove's notes, 

Low murm'ring from yon beachen bough." 

The Church is in the shape of a cross, measuring from east 
to west 228 feet, and from north to south, at the transept, 150 
feet. The nave and choir are 37 feet in breadth ; the height 
of the central arches is 70 feet ; of the smaller arches, 30 feet ; 
of the east window, 64 feet; of the west window, 42 feet. 
The total area originally enclosed by the walls of the Abbey is 
said to have been thirty -four acres. 

On the north side of the church are remains of the Re- 
fectory and of an Oratory, supposed to have heen used for 
saying grace at the time of meals. There are also vestiges of 
p 2 



322 TINTERN ABBEY. 

the Dormitory, or, as some suppose, the Penitentiary, and of 
several other apartments. 

This Abbey was founded for Cistercian Monks, in 1131, 
by Walter Fitz Richard de Clare, and dedicated to the Virgin 
Mary. He, however, died the following year, and was suc- 
ceeded by Gilbert, surnamed Strongbowe, first Earl of Pem- 
broke, who died in 1148, and was buried at Tintern. His 
brother then took the estates, but the male line of this family 
failing, Matilda, the heiress, married Hugh Bigot Earl of 
Norfolk and Suffolk, by whose grandson, Roger Bigot, ac- 
cording to William of Worcester, the Abbey Church of Tin- 
tern was built, and consecrated for divine service in 1287. 
At the Dissolution, the Abbey was granted to Henry Earl of 
Worcester, and is now the property of the Duke of Beaufort. 
During the Civil Wars the lead was stripped from the roof. 

The name of Tintern is supposed to be derived from the 
Welsh words Din, a fortress, and Teyrn, a sovereign; and it is 
probable that the Abbey was founded upon the site of the 
hermitage in which Theodorick King of Glamorgan resided, 
after he had resigned the throne to his son Maurice. In Tin- 
tern Abbey Edward II. took refuge from the pursuit of his 
queen Isabella. 

Near the Abbey are a few cottages, termed by the inha- 
bitants Abbey Tintern, to distinguish them from Tintern, which 
is about a mile distant. Amidst these cottages is the Beau- 
fort Arms Inn, where tourists will find comfortable accom- 
modation. 

THE IRON AND WIRE WORKS 

Are situated at a short distance from the Beaufort Arms, and 
may be inspected by strangers. The manufacture of wire by 
mills was introduced into this kingdom by some Germans who 
settled at Tintern in 1596. 

SALMON FISHERY. 

Many persons who reside at Tintern are employed in fishing 
for salmon in the river Wye. The season commences in the 



TOWYN. TRECASTLE. 323 

middle of November, and continues to the middle of August. 
The method of taking them is, to moor a boat with one end 
towards the shore, having a net fixed to two poles. When the 
fish strike against the net, the men press down the poles, 
which raises the net and secures the salmon. The employ- 
ment is one of great uncertainty ; but when fortunate, the 
fishermen are amply rewarded for their toil. 

TOWYN, 

IN MERIONETHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberystwith, over the Sands 15 London 218 

Barmouth 11 Machynlleth » 12 

DolgeUey 16* 

Is a small town, with about 2500 inhabitants, situated near 
the mouth of the little river Dysyni. It commands a fine 
view of the sea, and is backed by a range of lofty mountains. 
During summer this town is much frequented for sea-bathing, 
by persons who prefer retirement to the bustle of a more 
fashionable watering-place. The beach is about half a mile 
distant, and there are smooth sands extending three or four 
miles. The Church contains several ancient monuments. In 
the churchyard formerly stood two rude pillars, one of which, 
called St. Cadvan's Stone, was removed some years ago to a 
grotto in the vicinity. 

The Valley of the Dysyni, extending from Towyn towards 
Dolgelley for about ten miles, is remarkably pretty. 

Inns. The Raven, Corbet's Arms Hotel, and Commercial 
Inn. 

TRECASTLE, 

IN BRECKNOCKSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Brecon 11 Llandovery •> 9 

Was so called from a Castle built by Bernard de Neu- 



324 TREGARON. TRELECH. 

march, in the time of William Rufus. Scarcely any traces of 
this fortress now exist. Inn. The Camden Arms, a large and 
handsome house. 

TREGARON, 

IN CARDIGANSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Aberystwith 18 Lampeter 10 

Builth 31£ Llandovery 11 

Hafod 10 Strata Florida 5 

Is a straggling and ill-built town, situated in an abrupt 
hollow watered by the river Berwyn, which flows into the 
Teivy at a short distance. It is interspersed with numerous 
trees, which relieve the dreariness of the surrounding country. 

TRELECH, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 
Chepstow 83 Monmouth 5^ 

Is a village on the Old Road from Chepstow to Monmouth. 
It is supposed to have derived its name from Three Stones 
standing in a field near the Church, adjoining the turnpike 
road towards Chepstow. Some antiquaries have supposed 
these stones to be Druid ical, and have imagined that they 
formed part of a cromlech. They are sometimes called Ha- 
rold's Stones, but for what reason does not appear. They are 
of a pyramidal form, sloping towards the east, and consist of 
pudding-stone. The largest is fourteen feet two inches high, 
and the smallest eight feet ten inches. 

About a hundred yards south-west of the Church is a 
Tumulus or Earthen Mound, encircled by a moat, and sup- 
posed to have been the site of a Castle. Others, however, 
attribute it to the Druids. 

The Chalybeate Well is situated about 200 yards from the 
village. It was formerly much frequented. 



TREMADOC. 325 

Near the Church is a Sun-Dial, said to be of great an- 
tiquity. Upon the pedestal are inscriptions recording the 
three things for which the village is remarkable, — the Stones, 
the Tumulus, and the Well. Trelech has a small Inn. 



TREMADOC, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Beddgelart 6 Harlech 10 

Caernarvon 18J Maentwrog 6| 

Criccieth • 5 Pont Aberglaslyn • - 4J 

Festiniog 9£ TanyBwlch 6$ 

*** The Innkeepers, however, in charging for post-horses, make this 
place 7 miles from Beddgelart, 20 from Caernarvon, 13 from Festiniog, and 
10 from Maentwrog, or from Tan y Bwlch. 

Tremadoc, a modern-built town, erected by the late W. A. 
Madocks, Esq., is situated on land which he reclaimed from 
the sea. It stands beneath a lofty mountain, near the mouth 
of the Traeth Mawr, and is three feet below low-water mark. 
The town is built in the form of a square, on one side of which 
is a handsome Market-House, with an Assembly-Room over it, 
now occupied as a School. The Church is a neat building, in 
the pointed style, surmounted by a spire, and surrounded by 
trees ; and there is a handsome Meeting-House. 

A woollen manufactory gives employment to a number of 
hands. The Market is held on Friday.. 

The Tremadoc Arms, close to the Market-House, is a very 
good Inn, where post-chaises and cars may be obtained. 

TAN YR ALT, 

Built by the late Mr. Madocks, is an elegant mansion, erected 
upon an eminence, and surrounded by charming plantations. 
It is situated about a quarter of a mile from the town, on the 
left of the road towards Beddgelart. 



326 TREMADOC. 



MORFA LODGE, 

About three-quarters of a mile from Tremadoc, on the right of 
the road to the Embankment, was also built by Mr. Madocks. 
It is situated on the declivity of a hill covered with plantations, 
and forms a very picturesque object. 

THE EMBANKMENT. 

The idea of forming an embankment, to reclaim both the 
traeths or sands at the mouth of the Traeth Mawr, was enter- 
tained as far back as 1625, by Sir J. Wynne, who solicited the 
assistance of Sir Hugh Myddleton. This celebrated man 
being, however, engaged in mining and the formation of the 
New River, declined the undertaking. The great design was 
afterwards commenced by Mr. Madocks, who succeeded in 
enclosing the whole of the sand on the west side of the river. 
This was accomplished in 1800. The reclaimed land consists 
of about 2000 acres, which in less than three years were covered 
with vegetation, and now produce wheat, barley, clover, &c. 

Encouraged by this success, Mr. Madocks set about the 
more difficult task of carrying an embankment across the mouth 
of the river; and in 1807 he obtained a grant from the Crown 
of the whole of the sands from Pont Aberglaslyn to the Point 
of Gest. 

The embankment commences about a mile from Tremadoc, 
and is a mile in length. The breadth at the base is 100 feet, 
and at the top 30 feet. It is to be regretted that it has not 
been constructed with sufficient skill to answer the purposes 
intended, as the sea still flows under many parts of it at every 
tide. Along the top of it runs the road from Tremadoc to Tan 
y Bwlch, and to Harlech across the sands. 



Situated near the west end of the Embankment, is a small vil- 
lage, which has sprung up during the present century. It is 
much frequented by craft employed in conveying slates, coals, 



TYN Y MAES. 327 

&c. ; and small vessels are built here. Vessels of 1 20 tons can 
lie here in perfect safety, and the shore is well adapted for 
bathing. 



From Tremadoc the road to Harlech proceeds along the top 
of the Embankment, and afterwards crosses the sands at the 
Traeth Bach or Bychan, thus avoiding the circuitous route by 
Tan y Bwlch. The passage of the sands is often, however, 
attended with danger, as a considerable stream runs across 
them, and they are frequently shifted by the tide. A stranger 
should on no account attempt to cross them without the regular 
guide. 

TYN Y MAES, 

IN CAERNARVONSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles, Distant from Miles. 
7 Capel Curig 7j 



Is a commodious Inn and Posting-House, with good stables, 
situated on the Holyhead Mail-Road. 

About a mile distant, on the right of the road towards Ban- 
gor, but concealed from the view of the traveller by trees and 
plantations, is Ogwen Bank, the beautiful cottage of the late 
Lady Penrhyn. It is built in the florid Gothic style, and 
exhibits great taste. The centre contains an elegant room, with 
semicircular front, and the wings are appropriated to the stables 
and coach-house. The grounds are tastefully laid out. Visitors 
are requested to insert their names in a book kept for that pur- 
pose. Near the house is a picturesque Bridge over the river 
Ogwen, which here forms a pretty cascade. 

A mile further on the same road is St. Ann's Chapel, erected 
and endowed by the late Lord Penrhyn. Near it ate the ex- 
tensive slate-quarries of Mr. Pennant. — See Llandegai. 

From Tyn y Maes, also, the tourist may visit Nant Frangon, 
through which the Holyhead road passes. 



328 usk. 

USK, 

IN MONMOUTHSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Abergavenny 11 Monmouth 14 

Caerleon 7 Newport 8 

Caerwent 8 J Pontypool 6 



Chepstow -•• 11 Ragland 5 

London 138 

Is a place of great antiquity, situated upon a tongue of land 
formed by the confluence of the Olwy with the Usk. It was 
called by the Britons, Brynbida; by Giraldus Cambrensis, 
Castrum Isca ; and is supposed to have been the Burrium of 
the Romans. It was formerly a town of great importance, but 
has dwindled to a village with not more than 1400 inhabitants. 
The houses are chiefly disposed in four lines, forming a square, 
in the centre of which are gardens. 

Over the Usk is a stone Bridge of five arches, erected by 
William Edwards, the architect of Pont y Pridd. From this 
structure the mountains around Abergavenny appear with con- 
siderable effect : the even ridge of the Blorenge, and the conical 
shape of the Sugar Loaf, contrast finely with the broken summit 
of the Skyrrid. The river abounds with fish, particularly sal- 
mon ; and the lover of fly-fishing could scarcely find any other 
place more favourable for his purpose than this town. 

Along the river is a beautiful walk leading to the ruins of 
the Castle, situated on a gentle eminence to the north of the 
town, and now converted into a farm-house. The principal 
entrance, consisting of a fine Gothic gateway with a groove for 
a portcullis, still remains, and there are vestiges of the baronial 
hall and of some of the towers. From the terrace outside the 
walls, beneath the ivy-mantled tower which overhangs the pre- 
cipice, there is a fine view of the town, the river, and the sur- 
rounding country, which is very pretty. 

The period when the Castle was founded is not known. In 
1262 it belonged to Richard de Clare, was afterwards in the 
possession of the Crown, and is now the property of the Duke 



WELSH POOL. 329 

of Beaufort. It was frequently assaulted by Owen Glyndwr, 
who was defeated here by the royal troops. 

Near the Castle is the Church, an ancient and still a large 
structure, though much contracted from its original extent. The 
.tower, in which circular arches are introduced, is the oldest 
part; the body of the church is Gothic. In the interior is a 
curious inscription, which has often perplexed antiquaries : it 
is supposed to be a mixture of English, Welsh, and Latin. The 
Church was formerly attached to a Priory, founded by the Earls 
of Clare in the thirteenth century. Part of the priory-house, 
now occupied by a farmer, still exists, a little to the south of 
the Church. 

In the vicinity of Usk are several ancient encampments. 
Craeg y Gaercyd, crowning a woody precipice on the west side 
of the river, about a mile and a half above the town, is supposed 
to have been Roman. Campwood, two miles from Usk, on the 
left of the road to Ragland, is of an oval figure, entirely covered 
with wood. Coed y Bunedd is four miles from Usk, near the 
road to Ragland. It is 1440 feet in circumference. 

Inn. The Three Salmons. 



WELSH POOL, 

IN MONTGOMERYSHIRE, 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Llanfair 7J Montgomery 8 

Llan y Mynach 9£ Newtown • • • • 13J 

London, by Shrewsbury • • 171 Oswestry 15£ 

London, by Worcester 177 Shrewsbury 18i 

Is called Welsh to distinguish it from a town of the same 
name in Dorsetshire, and Pool, from its vicinity to a piece of 
water called Llyndy Pool, now within the enclosure of Powis 
Park. The town stands on a small hill, and consists prin- 
cipally of one long and spacious street, crossed by another at 
right angles. The houses are chiefly built of brick, and the 
manners of the inhabitants are completely English. The popu- 
lation is about 3800. 



330 WELSH POOL. 

The County Hall is a handsome edifice in the centre of the 
town. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a Gothic struc- 
ture, singularly situated at the bottom of a hill, and so low that 
the upper part of the churchyard is nearly on a level with its 
roof. Amongst the church plate is a curious gold chalice, 
bearing a Latin inscription, which states that Thomas Davies, 
who held the office of governor-general of the English colonies 
on the west coast of Africa, presented it to the church as a sacred 
and grateful offering to God for his preservation in that per- 
nicious climate. 

At Pool Stake, about three-quarters of a mile from this town, 
the Severn becomes navigable for small barges. The distance 
to its mouth, below Bristol, is computed at 200 miles. By 
means of this river, Welsh Pool carries on a considerable trade 
with the towns on its banks. The Montgomeryshire Canal also 
passes by the town, in its way from Newtown to Ellesmere. 

Inns. The Royal Oak, the Bear. The Market is held on 
Monday. 

POWIS CASTLE, 

The seat of the Powis family, is situated one mile south of 
Welsh Pool, and occupies a commanding position, beautifully 
backed by a large plantation of trees. This venerable structure 
has recently undergone a thorough repair, and may justly be 
ranked amongst the most magnificent seats in the kingdom. 

It is built of red stone, from which the Welsh call it Castell 
Coch, or the Red Castle, and is approached by two immense 
terraces, rising one above another by a vast flight of steps, 
adorned with vases, statues, &c. Beyond these is the grand 
entrance, flanked by two immense embattled towers, and lead- 
ing into the court, around which the principal apartments are 
disposed. The gallery is 117 feet long and 20 broad, and the 
rooms are adorned with a large collection of pictures. The 
views from some of the windows are remarkably fine. 

The Park, formed of swelling hills, with spacious verdant 
lawns, is well clothed with wood, and abounds with rich 
scenery. From the upper part of it there is a distant view, in 



WORCESTER. 331 

fine weather, of Plinlimmon, Cader Idris, Snowdon, and other 
mountains. 

The Earl of Powis obtained this estate, by purchase, in the 
reign of Elizabeth. During the Civil Wars, the Castle was 
taken by the Parliament forces under Sir T. Middleton, and its 
owner made prisoner. Lucien Buonaparte resided here for 
several years. 

THE BREIDDON HILLS 

Are situated to the north-east of Welsh Pool. They are sur- 
mounted by three peaks, more conspicuous than the others, 
called Craig y Breiddon, Cefn Castell, and Moel y Golf a. 
Upon one of these, which is about six miles from Welsh Pool, 
is Rodney's Pillar, erected to commemorate the victories which 
Admiral Lord Rodney obtained over the French. It is a lofty 
obelisk, and bears an inscription. 

The boundary between England and Wales, at the base of 
the Breiddon Hills, is singularly marked. By the side of the 
road, near a place called Crew Green, is a young Oak, bearing 
an inscription recording the introduction into the Principality 
of George Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV. This 
occurred September 9, 1806. 



WORCESTER, 

IN WORCESTERSHIRE. 

Distant from Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Bromyard 13| London, by Malvern 126 

Gloucester 25 Ludlow <•••• 31£ 

Hereford, by Ledbury 31£ Malvern 8 

Ledbury 16 Shrewsbury 49 

Leominster 25§ Tewkesbury 16i 

London, by Pershore 111J 

This beautiful city is frequently visited by tourists in their 
route to Wales, and thence there are stage-coaches to Aberyst- 
with, Caermarthen, Shrewsbury, &c. 

The Cathedral, the China Manufactories, and the Guildhall, 
are the principal objects worthy of notice. For a more detailed 



332 



WREXHAM. 



account of Worcester, the reader is referred to " Leigh's Road- 
Book of England." 

Inns. The Star and Garter, the Hop-Pole, the Crown, the 
Angel, the Unicorn. 

WREXHAM, 

IN DENBIGHSHIRE, 

Distantfrom Miles. Distant from Miles. 

Caergwrle 5\ Llangollen 11 J 

Chester 11J London 182 

Ellesmere 12 Ruabon 5J 

Gresford 3i Ruthin 16 

Is a large and well-built town, with about 12,000 inha- 
bitants, situated on the high road from Shrewsbury to Chester. 
From its size and consequence it has sometimes been deno- 
minated the Metropolis of North Wales. The surrounding 
country is beautiful, though the appearance of the immediate 
outskirts of the town are by no means prepossessing. 

The Church, formerly collegiate, is an elegant Gothic struc- 
ture, not surpassed in design, proportion, or taste, by any 
edifice built in the time of Henry VII. It was commenced 
about 1457, and finished in 1472, with the exception of the 
tower, which was not completed till 1506. The body of the 
church is 178 feet long and 62 broad. The tower, which rises 
135 feet in height, and is 22 feet square, is a beautiful specimen 
of the florid Gothic style. It is adorned with numerous statues, 
one of which, with a hind by its side, represents the patron, 
St. Giles. 

The interior also presents several objects worthy of notice. 
The timbers supporting the roof are grotesquely carved, and 
over the arches are the arms of many of the British and Saxon 
Princes. The altar-piece, representing the Lord's Supper, and 
another picture, of David playing on the harp before Saul, in 
the South aisle, are supposed to have been painted by Rubens. 
They were presented by Elihu Yale, Esq., who was buried in 
the churchyard in 1721. On his tomb is a poetical inscrip- 



WREXHAM. 333 

tion. This gentleman is distinguished for having introduced 
auctions into this kingdom about the year 1700. The sale 
consisted of some goods that were brought from Madras or 
Fort George, in the East Indies, of which place he had been 
governor. 

Amongst the monuments is a beautiful specimen of sculp- 
ture, by Roubiliac, in memory of Mrs. Mary Middleton, the 
daughter of Sir Richard Middleton, who died in 1747. Oppo- 
site to this monument is a figure representing Bishop Bellot, a 
distinguished linguist, who was employed in the translation of 
the Scriptures, and died near Wrexham in 1596. At the end 
of the north aisle is a mural monument, by Roubiliac, con- 
taining profiles of the Rev. Thomas Middleton and his wife. 
Under the belfry is the figure of a knight in armour, which 
was dug up during the last century. In the Civil Wars this 
church was converted into a prison by the Parliament Forces. 

Dr. D. Williams, who founded the Dissenters' Library in 
Redcross Street, London, was born at Wrexham in 1644. 

Wrexham has a Town-hall and a Free-school. In the 
vicinity are several collieries and iron-works. The Market is 
held on Monday and Thursday, but the latter is the principal. 
In March a noted fair is held here. 

Inns. The Eagles, the Red Lion, the Golden Lion. 

ACTON PARK, 

One mile from Wrexham, on the right of the road to Chester, 
is the seat of Sir Foster Cunliffe. It is remarkable as the birth- 
place of the infamous Judge Jefferies. 



DESCRIPTION 

OF 

THE WYE. 



This river takes its rise in Montgomeryshire, near the summit 
of Plinlimmon, and about two miles from the source of the 
Severn. After dividing the counties of Radnor and Brecknock, 
it passes through the middle of Herefordshire, becomes a 
second boundary between Monmouthshire and Gloucestershire, 
and falls into the Severn a little below Chepstow. In its 
course it receives the tributary waters of numerous smaller 
streams, and passes by the village of Llangerrig, and the towns 
of Rhaiadyr, Builth, Hay, Hereford, Ross, Monmouth, and 
Chepstow. 

The scenery from the Source to the Hay is very picturesque, 
but the portion of the Wye to which travellers usually resort is 
between Ross and Chepstow. The distance by water is thirty- 
eight miles; that is, twenty from Ross to Monmouth, and 
eighteen from Monmouth to Chepstow. Few persons, how- 
ever, now pursue the voyage further than Monmouth, as the 
New Road from that town to Chepstow commands better views 
of the scenery than those obtained from the Boat. We shall 
give, however, a Plan of the Voyage for the whole distance, as 
well as an account of the New Road. 

Boats for the voyage can be hired at the Inns at Ross. The 
distance from Ross to Monmouth may be performed in five 
hours, but this will not allow time for stopping to see any of 
the various objects on the banks. The price of a boat varies, 
according to the size and accommodation, from 1/. 10s. to 2/. 
This may appear high, but it must be recollected that the boats 
have to be towed the whole of the way back before they can be 
let again. The same price is charged from Monmouth to 



DESCRIPTION OF THE WYE. 335 

Chepstow, and the voyage occupies four hours. The boatmen 
expect nothing but a trifling donation for beer. 

The general character of the scenery is that of a glen or deep 
dell, the opposite sides of which rise abruptly from the edge of 
the water, and are clothed with woods broken into cliffs. In 
some places the banks approach so near, that the river occupies 
the whole intermediate space, and nothing is seen but wood, 
rocks, and water ; in others, they recede, and the eye catches 
an occasional glimpse of hamlets, ruins, and detached buildings, 
partly seated on the margin of the stream, and partly scattered 
on the rising grounds. The towering height of the rocky and 
well-wooded acclivities, the contrast of lines exhibited by their 
folding successively one over another, and the winding of the 
river between them, produce a very striking effect, which is 
heightened by the wildness of the whole scene, and the deep 
shadows of the hills. 

The following Plan of a Voyage down the Wye, from 
Ross to Chepstow, will assist the tourist in discovering the 
various objects on the banks. Each division terminates at the 
place where parties usually disembark. 

ROSS TO GOODRICH. 

Right Bank. Left Bank. 

Wilton Bridge and Castle. Prospect Ground and Church at Ross. 

Weir End. The Hill, or New Hill Court. 
Pencraig House and Wood. 

Goodrich Court. Road to Ross, opposite Goodrich 
Goodrich Castle. Castle. 

Below Ross the banks of the river present meadows backed 
by cliffs, which soon terminate on that side in rich pastures. On 
the Wilton side, the banks are at first low, but soon rise into a 
ridge, partially covered with wood, which continues beyond 
Goodrich Castle, where it slopes to the river. 

Wilton Bridge and Castle, about a mile from Ross, have 
already been noticed. — See Ross. The ride from Ross over 
Wilton Bridge is very pretty; but the approach to Goodrich 
Castle by the water is too beautiful to be omitted, although the 



336 DESCRIPTION OF THE WYE. 

first two or three miles beyond Wilton present few interesting 
objects. 

About two miles beyond Wilton Bridge, on the left, is the 
Hill, or New Hill Court, a handsome mansion, the central 
part of which is said to have been designed by Mr. Kyrle, the 
"Man of Ross." A little beyond it, on the right, is Pencraig, 
sheltered by wood, and crowning a steep eminence. The view 
of Ross and its vicinity, from this mansion, is beautifully 
luxuriant. 

We then approach Goodrich Court and Goodrich Castle, 
about five miles from Ross, both of which have been already 
described. " Here," says Mr. Gilpin, " a grand view presented 
itself, and we rested on our oars to examine it. A reach of the 
river, forming a noble bay, is spread before the eye. The bank 
on the right is steep, and covered with wood ; beyond which a 
bold promontory shoots out, crowned with a castle rising 
among trees. This view, which is one of the grandest on the 
river, I should not scruple to call correctly picturesque." 

" In following the course of the Wye, which makes here 
one of its boldest sweeps, we were carried almost round the 
Castle, surveying it in a variety of forms. Some of these 
retrospects are good ; but, in general, the Castle loses, on this 
side, both its own dignity and the dignity of its situation." 

GOODRICH CASTLE TO SYMONd's YAT. 

Right Bank. Left Bank. 

Flanesford, or Goodrich Priory. Walford Church. 

North side of Coppet Wood Hill. Lays Hill. 

Bishop's Wood. 
Ruerdean Church. 
Court Field. Lidbrook. 

Welsh Bicknor. Rosemary Topping. 

Mr. Warre's Monument. Coldwell Rocks. 

South side of Coppet Wood Hill. Symond's Yat or Gate. 

Flanesford, or Goodrich Priori/, now a farm, is situated in 
a fertile vale, about a quarter of a mile below the Castle. It 
was founded for Augustine monks, by Sir Richard Talbot, in 
1 347. The Church and Village of Walford are seen on the left. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE WYE. 337 

In the former was buried Colonel Kyrle, who was first in the 
service of Charles I., but afterwards turned over to the Par- 
liament : his helmet is still preserved here. 

Beyond, on the right, is the long steep ridge of Coppet or 
Copped Wood Hill, against the base of which the river dashes, 
and then glides in a horse-shoe course of five miles, revisiting 
the hill at its southern extremity. The distance across the neck 
of land is only a mile. 

Upon the left is Bishop's Wood, a gradual ascent inter- 
spersed with rocks, cottages, and detached enclosures, forming 
a striking amphitheatre. In the vicinity are the Bishop's Wood 
Iron- Works, and a handsome seat. The Bishop's Brook, which 
here enters the Wye, parts the counties of Hereford and Glou- 
cester, and the parishes of Walford and Ruerdean. 

Ruerdean, or Riverdean, next presents itself. " The view 
at Ruerdean Church," says Mr. Gilpin, " is a scene of great 
grandeur. Here both sides of the river are steep, and both 
woody ; but in one the woods are intermixed with rocks. 
The deep umbrage of the Forest of Dean occupies the front, 
and the spire of the church rises among the trees. The reach 
of the river which exhibits this scene is long ; and, of course, 
the view, which is a noble piece of natural perspective, con- 
tinues some time before the eye ; but when the spire comes 
directly in front, the grandeur of the landscape is gone." 

At Lidbrook, or Lydbrook, is a wharf, whence large quan- 
tities of coals are sent to Ross, Hereford, and other places. The 
stone-quarries in this neighbourhood supplied the stories with 
which the bridge at Bristol was built. On the opposite side of 
the river is Courtfield, a modern mansion, the seat of the 
Vaughan family. In the original building on this spot Henry V. 
is said to have been nursed. The picturesque church and par- 
sonage-house of Welsh Bicknor are seen beneath. In the former 
is a sepulchral effigy, said to represent the Countess of Salis- 
bury, who was nurse to the infant prince. She died in 1395. 

Extending about a mile along the right bank of the river is 
a semicircular sweep of meadows, between two ridges of wood, 
called Hawkwood and Puckwood. In front is a picturesque 
Q 



338 DESCRIPTION OF THE WYE. 

woody hill, named Rosemary Topping, from the mellow luxu- 
riance of its sides. It soon, however, changes its shape ; and 
the woody hill becomes a lofty side screen on the right bank, 
while the front unfolds the majestic scenery of the Cold well 
Rocks. 

The Monument, which is situated close to the river, near 
Coldwell, was erected in memory of Mr. J. W. Warre, who 
was unfortunately drowned near the spot while bathing, in sight 
of his parents, brother, and sisters, September 14, 1804. It 
bears a long inscription recording the unhappy event. 

The Coldwell Rocks present a splendid scene. The grand 
prominences are overhung with richly varied tufts of oak and 
shrubs, occasionally contrasted and relieved by deep and sha- 
dowy dells, formed by the various lime-kilns hollowed out of 
their surface. The first grand mass of rock, on the left side, is 
partially insulated, and bears some resemblance to the square 
keep of a ruined castle. It is succeeded by a wall of rock, 
resembling the cliffs at the Hot Wells near Bristol. 

The largest and most elevated of these rocks is Symond's 
Yat or Gate, 

" A tower of rock, that seems to cry, 
Go round about me, neighbour Wye." 

Here it is usual for parties to land, in order to enjoy the 
splendid views from its summit. The river here forms an 
immense bend of between four and five miles, returning, on the 
other side of the promontory, to within a quarter of a mile of 
the landing-place. The boatmen will probably recommend 
the tourist to let them take the boat round this sweep, in order 
to save time, while he crosses the summit of the promontory to 
the site of the New Weir. If, however, he agrees to this sug- 
gestion, he will of course lose the changing attitudes and various 
hues which Symond's Yat presents towards the water. Mr. 
Gilpin thought the water in this part was uninteresting. 

Symond's Yat is said by Mr. Coxe, in his History of Mon- 
mouthshire, to rise 2000 feet above the river, but this is evi- 
dently a mistake; its height cannot be near so much. Its base 



DESCRIPTION OF THE WYE. 339 

is not more than 600 yards in width, although the distance from 
one side of it to the other, following the course of the river, is 
upwards of four miles. The panoramic view obtained from the 
summit is very extensive and varied : to the north is seen Coppet 
Wood Hill, interspersed with rock and common; — to the north- 
west appear the spire and village of Goodrich, and, at the foot 
of the hill, Rocklands and Huntsholm Ferry; — to the west, 
Huntsholm, behind which is Whitchurch, and, in the distance, 
the Welsh Hills ; — to the south-west, the mountainous side of 
the Great Doward ; — to the South, Staunton Church, and the 
Buck Stone, upon a promontory; and below, Highmeadow 
Woods and the river: on the left the rock of the New Weir, 
and on the right the rocky wall of the east side of the Doward ; 
— to the south-east, the village of English Bicknor, a side view 
of Coldwell Rocks, and Rosemary Topping ; — and to the east, 
Ruerdean Wood, with the church in the distance, Bishop's 
Wood, and Courtfield, with the woody ridges of Hawkwood 
and Puckwood completing the Panorama. 

SYMOND'S YAT TO MONMOUTH. 

Right Bank. Left Bank. 

South end of Coppet Wood Hill. 
Goodrich Church. 

Whitchurch. Site of the New Weir. 

Great Doward. Highmeadow Woods. 
Arthur's Vale. 

Little Doward and Lays House. Table Mount. 
Dixton Church. 

Monmouth. Monmouth. 

Supposing that the tourist determines to proceed round the 
bend of the river in the boat, instead of crossing Symond's Yat, 
he will pass, on the right, Rocklands, which commands a view 
of Coldwell Rocks, and on the left, an old seat of the Vaughan 
family, now a farm-house. Goodrich church and Whitchurch 
will also be passed. 

This reach of the river brings us to the site of the New Weir, 
the weir itself, which was constructed for catching salmon, hav- 
ing been removed some time ago. Mr. Gilpin termed this the 



340 DESCRIPTION OF THE WYE. 

second grand scene on the Wye. The river is wider than usual 
in this part, and takes a sweep round a towering promontory of 
rock, which forms the side screen on the left, and is the grand 
feature of the view. It is not a broad fractured face of rock, 
but rather a woody hill, from which large rocky crags project, 
covered with twisting branches and innumerable pendant shrubs. 
Near the top is a pointed fragment of solitary rock, the only 
one remaining out of many others which stood here during the 
last century, but have either fallen into the river or been con- 
sumed in the lime- kiln. This rocky pillar is called Bear croft, 
from the well-known barrister, and is said to have received this 
appellation from the Counsel, who were in the habit of making 
the Wye form part of their Circuit. On the right side of the 
river, opposite the rock just mentioned, the bank forms a woody 
amphitheatre, following the course of the stream round the 
promontory. Its lower skirts are adorned with a hamlet and a 
series of rich meadows. Between these two lofty banks the 
river rolls rapidly along, breaking over the large fragments of 
rock which have been shivered by tempests or swept down by 
floods. 

Below the site of the New Weir the river passes between 
Highmeadow Woods on the left, and the rocky wall of the 
Great Doward on the right. At the end of this reach is a beau- 
tiful mass of rock covered with shrubs; in front the river forms 
a pool, and in the back ground is seen the summit of the Little 
Doward. The Doward hills bear the name of King Arthurs 
Plain, and in a valley between them is a cavern, still called 
King Arthurs Hall, although it is nothing more than the level 
of an exhausted iron-mine. A detached cluster of rocks, called 
St. Martins, or the Three Sisters, is seen in passing down the 
river ; near which, at a short reach named St. Martins Well, 
the stream is said to be deeper than at any other part. At the 
extremity of this reach is King Arthur s Vale, from which King 
Arthur s Plain is again seen, assuming a castellated form. 

The Little Doward was formerly a British camp, traces of 
which may still be discovered. At its foot is Lays House, and 
on the opposite side of the river Table Mount. In front is a 



DESCRIPTION OF THE WYE. 341 

woody amphitheatre, with Newton Court on the right, and 
below, near the water's edge, Vaga Cottage. 

The river then serpentines through a wider valley, and 
passing the solitary church of Uixton, reaches the town of 
Monmouth. 

monmouth to tintern abbey. 

Right Bank. Left Bank. 

Troy House. Half-way House. 

Permit. Redbrook. 

Whitebrook. 

Pen-y-van Hill and Maypole. Wye Seal House. 

Paper Mills. 

Pilstone House. Big's Weir House. 

Llandogo. St. Brjavels. 

Coedithel Weir. Hudknolls. 

Llyn Weir. Brook-Weir. 

Tintern. 

Fielding's House. 
Tintern Abbey. 

The banks of the Wye beyond Monmouth are richly 
adorned with woods, which in most places descend to the 
water's edge. No less than eighty are seen between Mon- 
mouth and Chepstow ; and as many works in the vicinity are 
carried on by means of fire, the timber is periodically cut 
down for fuel, and the character of the scenery is per- 
petually changing. What is this year a thicket may the 
next be an open grove. The woods, consequently, exhibit but 
little grandeur, as the trees are not suffered to attain their full 
stature. 

The place of embarkation is about a quarter of a mile 
below the town, where the Monnow enters the Wye. The first 
object seen on the right is Troy House (see Monmouth), near 
which the little river joins the Wye. 

Receding from Monmouth, the spire of the church is seen 
in the retrospect, and the Kymin Woods appear on a rock to 
the left. The Half-way House is so called from being half- 
way between Monmouth and Redbrook. About half a mile 



342 DESCRIPTION OF THE WYE. 

further the river makes a grand sweep, and changes its rocky 
character for sloping hills covered with wood. Penalt Church 
(see Monmouth) may be observed on the right bank, si- 
tuated on an eminence, about a mile and a half below 
Monmouth. Opposite to it is a modern house in the castel- 
lated style. 

A few fields below, on the opposite bank, is Redbrook, two 
miles from Monmouth. It is divided into two parts, and 
distinguished by the names of Upper and Lower Redbrook, 
one standing above the other on the bank of the river. The 
little stream, called the Redbrook, which here flows into the 
Wye, forms the boundary between Monmouthshire and Glou- 
cestershire, and turns the wheels of the Iron and Tin Works at 
this place. 

Two miles further, on the same side of the river, is Wye 
Seal House; and nearly opposite to it, the hamlet of White- 
brook, so called from the brook which here falls into the river- 
Paper Mills occupy the site of the old Iron Works. The river 
then makes a grand sweep between two ranges of lofty hills 
covered with woods. 

A little below Whitebrook is Pen y Van, or Pen y Wale 
Hill, on the summit of which there is a May Pole, erected by 
the neighbouring peasantry; and at a short distance, on the 
same side, the remains of the old manor-house olPilstone, now 
part of a farm. On the left shore, six miles from Monmouth, 
stands Big's Weir House, the seat of the Rooke family, situated 
on the acclivity of a hill, the summit of which is crowned by 
the ruins of the castle of St. Briavels. This fortress was built 
by Milo Earl of Hereford, in the reign of Henry I., as the 
residence of the Lords Warden of the Forest of Dean, and to 
restrain the incursions of the Welsh. The views from it of the 
surrounding country are very pretty. 

A singular custom prevails at St. Briavels. The inha- 
bitants of the parish, from time immemorial, pay a penny or 
twopence per annum to the churchwardens to buy bread and 
cheese on Whit-Sunday. The bread and cheese are cut into 
small pieces, and immediately after the service is ended, the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE WYE. 343 

congregation hold their hats, aprons, &c. and the church- 
wardens distribute them amidst a general scramble. This 
disgraceful scene formerly took place in the church, but was 
transferred to the churchyard in 1819. The custom is said to 
give a right of common on Hudknolls. 

Hence a long reach of the river, with Tiddenham Chase 
Hill rising conspicuously in front, leads to Llandogo, on the 
right shore, seven miles from Monmouth. This beautiful 
village consists of a number of cottages, studded over the side 
of an extensive and lofty hill, and interspersed with apple and 
other fruit-trees. Nearly through the centre of the hill is a deep 
ravine, called Clydden Shoots, in which, during winter, the 
adjacent springs produce a beautiful cascade. The village 
church is a small building, near the edge of the water. The 
tide flows up to Llandogo at all seasons of the year, and the 
character of the water is consequently changed from a trans- 
parent to a turbid stream. 

Nearly opposite is Hudknolls, an extensive tract of wood- 
land, which formed part of the waste of the Forest of Dean. 
Being open to the poor of the parishes of Llandogo, St. Bria- 
vels, and Heweldsfield, the wood does not arrive at great 
maturity. The poor who cut it make it up in small faggots 
and send it by water to the bakers at Bristol. Beneath this 
wood is Coedithel or Cardithel Weir. 

Brook Weir, or Brock Weir, is a small village, situated 
lower down the river, about nine miles from Monmouth, and 
half-way from that town to Chepstow. It forms a mart for the 
reception of goods brought from the upper part of the Wye, 
which are here shipped on board vessels of about sixty tons, 
and sent to Bristol and other places. The trade is chiefly in 
corn, hoops, and faggots. 

The river then meanders round the point at Lyn Weir, and 
discovers the church and village of Tintern. A house, for- 
merly belonging to the family of Fielding, is said to have been 
battered by the Parliamentary forces from the brow of a hill on 
the opposite side of the river. The encampment which for- 



344 DESCRIPTION" OF THE WYE. 

merly existed there, was most probably however raised by the 
Anglo-Saxons. 

We then arrive at the beautiful ruins of Tintern Abbey, 
which have been already described. 

TINTERN ABBEY TO CHEPSTOW. 

Right Bank. Left Bank 

Bannagor Crags. 

Windcliffand Moss Cottage. Fryer's Rocks. 

Lover's Leap. Lancaut. 

Piercefield. Piercefield Bay. 

Twelve Apostles. Tiddenham Rocks. 

Chepstow. Tutshill. 

The banks of the Wye below Tintern Abbey are steep, 
winding, and woody, and in some parts diversified by pro- 
minent rocks, and ground finely broken and adorned. A 
short distance beyond the Abbey the Bannagor Crags form a 
perpendicular rampart on the left, wholly bare, except where a 
few shrubs spring from the crevices or fringe their summits. 
On the opposite side, the river is skirted by narrow slips of 
rich pasture, rising into wooded acclivities, above which towers 
the Windcliff (see Piercefield), a perpendicular mass of rock 
overhung with thickets. At its base is the Moss Cottage. 

The river then enters an abyss, bounded on the right by 
the heights of Piercefield, amongst which the lofty cliff called 
the Lover s Leap appears conspicuous ; and on the left, by the 
peninsula of Lancaut, the church of which, and a house 
termed Lancaut Cottage, are visible. The rocks which ter- 
minate the grounds of Piercefield, on the right bank, resemble 
the bastions of a castle. They are twelve in number, and are 
called the Twelve Apostles; a thirteenth is denominated St. 
Peter's Thumb. 

The next reach of the river introduces us to Piercefield Bay, 
and in sight of the Castle of Chepstow, which occupies the 
highest part of an immense perpendicular crag, and assumes a 
most majestic appearance. Tiddenham Rocks and Tutshill are 



DESCRIPTION OF THE WYE. 345 

seen on the left, and across the river stretches the light and 
airy iron bridge of Chepstow, already described. 



The distance from Chepstow to the entrance of the Wye 
into the Severn is about three miles. The Steam-Vessels 
which go to Bristol, pass down this portion of the river; and 
the high impending character of the banks renders the scene 
very pleasing. Amongst the most remarkable cliffs are the 
Red Rocks and Hardwick Cliffs, adjoining to which are Thorn- 
well Woods, so called from a well in the vicinity. At St. 
Ew art's Rocks, about a mile lower, on the left bank, the Severn 
becomes visible, and soon discloses the whole of its mighty 
stream. 

MONMOUTH TO CHEPSTOW, 

BY THE NEW ROAD. 

Miles. Miles. 

Upper Redbrook 2£ Tintern Abbey £ 

Lower Redbrook • ■> % Windcliff and Moss Cottage 2 

Florence Cottage 3 St. Arvan's 1 

Big's Weir \ Crossway Green 1§ 

Llandogo 1 Chepstow \ 



Tintern 2| 



15J 



The principal objects which occur on this beautiful road 
have already been noticed in the Voyage down the Wye. 
Nothing can be more picturesque : every elevated spot on the 
banks of the Wye furnishes either a landscape or a prospect ; 
and to attempt an enumeration of them would be an endless 
task. The road is sometimes concealed by wood and some- 
times open, and in its course commands several double views 
of the Wye and Severn. 

At Big's Weir is an elegant modern Iron Bridge over the 
Wye. About a mile to the right of Llandogo is seen the 
picturesque Waterfall of Clydden, just above which the stream 
is crossed by a bridge, producing a very pretty effect. 

The Moss Cottage at the foot of Windcliff (see Piercefield) 



346 DESCRIPTION OF THE WYE. 

is a commodious house, erected by the Duke of Beaufort for 
the accommodation of pic-nic parties, and other visitors who 
frequent this beautiful neighbourhood. About half a mile 
beyond it is one of the entrances to the walks of Pierceneld, 
which the tourist may visit in his way to Chepstow. 



Index. 



INDEX 



Abbey Cwm Hir, 285. 

Aber, 23. 41. 

Aberaeron, 42. 

Aberconway. See Conway. 

Aberdare, 43. 

Aberdaron, 277* 

Aberdovey, 43. 

Aberdulais, or Aberdylais Fall, 

242. 
Aberedw, 78, 79. 
Aberfraw, 43. 
Abergavenny, 36. 44. 
Abergeley, 28. 46. 
AbergwiUy, 92. 
Abergwngregin, 41. 
Aberllolwyn, 52, 
Abermaw. See Barmouth. 
Abermayde, 52. 
Aber Menai, 223. 
Aberyron. See Aberaeron. 
Aberystwith, 26. 47- 
Aconbury Hill, 288. 
Acton Park, 333. 
All Saint's Eve, 17- 
Amlwch, 53. 
Anglesea Column, 263. 
Arran Ben Llyn, 57. 
Arthur's Hall, 340. 

Plain, 340. 

Quoit, 190. 

Round Table, 89. 

Stone, 258. 

Atis Cross, 143. 
Aust Passage Inn, 55. 
Avon Llwyd, 46. 

Bala, 27. 56. 

Bangor, 23, 24. 28, 29, 30. 57- 



Bangor Iscoed, 60. 
Bannagor Crags, 344. 
Bardsey Island, 60. 
Barmouth, 25. 61. 
Baron Hill, 66. 
Basingwerk Abbey, 166. 
Beachley, 62. 
Bearcroft, 340. 
Beavers, Vale of, 238. 
Beaumaris, 23, 29. 63. 
Beddgelart, 24. 30. 67. 
Benglog, Falls of, 239. 
Berwyn Mountains, 121. 
Bettws y Coed, 23, 24. 28. 30. 70. 
Big's Weir, 342. 345. 
Bishop and his Clerks, 297. 
Bishop's Castle, 70. 

Wood, 337. 

Black Cataract, near Maentwrog, 

214. 
Cataract, near Dolgelley, 

134. 

Rock Inn, 71 • 

Blaenavon Iron- Works, 46. 
Blanedow, 279. 
Blorenge Mountain, 46. 
Bob's Cove, 250. 
Bodfach, 191- 
Bodscallen, 187. 
Borth, 52. 

Bosherton Meer, 254. 
Braich Du, 239. 

y Dinas, 256. * 

Brecon, 36. 38-71. 
Breiddon Hills, 331. 
Bridgend, 39. 75. 
Bridgewater Arms, 273. 
Bristol, 31. 36, 37- 39. 76. 



348 



INDEX. 



Briton, or Britton, Ferry, 77* 

Bromyard, 27- 38. 

Brook Weir, 343. 

Bualt. See Builth. 

Buckstone, the, 235. 

Builth, 38. 77- 

Bundling, 15. 

Bute Iron-Works, 226. 

Bwa Maen, 268. 

Bwlch y Groes, 57« 

Cader Ferwyn, 121. 

Fronwyn, 121. 

Idris, 25. 79. 133. 

Cadoxton, 242. 

Caea Mon Inn. See Mona Inn. 

Caerdiff, 32. 39. 84. 

Caer Drewyn, 120. 

Caergwrle, 87. 

Caergws, 100. 

Caerleon, 38. 88. 

Caermarthen, 34, 35. 89. 

Caernarvon, 24. 30. 93. 

Caerphilly, 32. 97- 

Caer-Rhun, 119. 

Caerwent, 38. 99. 

Caerwys, 100. 

Caldecot Castle, 101. 

Caldecot Level, 101. 

Caldy Island, 318. 

Camlyn Bay, 53. 

Campwood, 329. 

Canal, Caerdiff, 225. 

, Ellesmere, 113. 197- 

, Montgomeryshire, 210. 330. 

, Neath, 241. 

, Swansea, 311. 

Cann Office, 102. 

Capel Cerrig, or Curig, 23. 28. 

30. 102. 
Caractacus's Camp, 171. 
Cardiff. See Caerdiff. 
Cardigan, 35. 104. 
Carew Castle, 106. 
Car Gwillim Du, 42. 
Cam Boduon, 94. 
Carnedd at Plas Newydd, 263. 

David, 238. 

Carn Madryn, 94. 



Carreg Cennen Castle, 182. 

y Wimbill, 276. 

Castell Cidwm, 69. 

Dol Forwyn, 248. 

y Craig, 131. 

Castle Dinas Bran, 194. 

Gwyn, 46. 

Hall, 228. 

_ Hill, 52. 

Lake, 157- 

Morlais, 226. 

Castles, the, 254. 
Caswell Bay, 250. 
Cave Hill, 46. 
Caunant Mawr, 132. 
Cefn Caer, 213. 

Castell, 331. 

Digoll, 238. 

Ogo, 46. 

Cerig y Druidion, 22. 107. 
Cernioge Mawr Inn, 23. 108. 
Cerri Castle, 131. 
Ceubren yr Ellyll, 136. 
Cevn y Bryn, 258. 
Ceynaunt Mawr, 132. 
Chars tone Rock, 71 • 
Chepstow, 36, 37- 108. 344. 
Chester, 28. 30. 112. 
Chirk, 22. 28. 113. 

Castle, 114. 

Chair of Rhys Goch, 266. 

Cilgeraint. See Kilgerran. 

Clawdd Offa, 290. 

Clenenny, 256. 

Clifford Castle, 159. 

Clifton, 76. 

Cluernog, 50. 

Clwyd, Vale of, 292. 

Clydden Shoots, 343. 345. 

Clynnog, 114. 

Clyro, 160. 

Cnicht, 314. 

Coed Euloe, 159. 

Coedithel Weir, 343. 

Coed y Bunedd, 329. 

Coeton Arthur, 154. 

Coginan, 50. 

Coity, 76. 

Cold Blow, 34. 115. 



INDEX. 



349 



Coldwell Rocks, 338. 

Conway, 23.28. 115. 

Copped, or Coppet Wood Hill, 337- 

Coracles, 13. 

Cors y Gedol, 62. 

Corwen, 22. 120. 

Cottages, 12. 

Courtfield, 337- 

Courtships, 15. 

Cowbridge, 39. 122. 

Craeg-y-Gaercyd, 329. 

Craighywel, 124. 

Craig y Breiddon, 331. 

y Deryn, 313. 

y Dinas (Brecknocksh.) 267. 

y Dinas (Anglesea), 263. 

y Mwn, 198. 

Crew Green, 331. 
Criccaeth, or Criccieth, 122. 
Crickhowel, 36. 123. 
Croes Atis, 143. 
Cromlechs, 262. 
Crosswood, 52. 
Crow Castle, 194. 
Crucis. See Valle Cruris. 
Crugiau, 52. 
Cwellyn Lake, 69. 
Cwrn Bycan, 155. 

Cynvelin, 52. 

Du, 124. 

Dwr, 185. 

DyJi, 69. 

Elian, 284. 

Glas, 177- 

Cwmgu, 124. 

Cwm Hir Abbey, 285. 

Llan, 68. 

Neath, 144. 

Cwmswmbog, 50. 

Cwm Ystwith, 27. 124. 

Cwrw, 4. 

Cyfarthfa Iron-Works, 224. 

Cynfael Falls, 140. 

Cynfig Castle and Lake, 278. 

Cysyllty Aqueduct, 196. 

Dale, 229. 
Ddinas Emrys, 68. 
Dean, Forest of, 342. 



Dee, River, 57. 
Denbigh, 28. 125. 
Devil's Bridge, 26, 27. 126. 
Dinas Bran Castle, 194. 

Emrys. See Ddinas. 

Mowddu, or Mouthv, 27- 

130. 
Dinevawr Castle, 181. 
Diserth, 131. 
Dixton, 341. 

Dolawen Slate Quarry, 179. 
Dolbadern, 131. 
Dolgelley, 25. 27- 132. 
Dolwyddelan Castle, 136. 
Dol-y-Melynllyn, 134. 
Doward, Great, 340. 

Little, 340. 

Downing, 167- 
Drws y Coed, 69. 201. 
Dryslin Castle, 183. 
Dunraven Castle, 137- 
Dyffryn, 86. 
Dynevor Castle, 181. 

Eastnor Castle, 173. 
Eaton Hall, 113. 
Eglwys Nunyd, 218. 
Em Mountains, 199. 
Eisteddfod, 100. 
Eliseg's Pillar, 196. 
Ellesmere, 138. 
Embankment, 326. 
Eryri, 300. 
Esgairvraith, 50. 
Euloe Castle, 158. 
Ewenny Priory, 138. 

Falls. See Waterfalls. 
Farnham, or Farndon, 161. 
Festiniog^ 25. 139. 
Fishguard, 35. 141. 
Flanesford Priory, 336. 
Flat Holme, 86. 
Flint, 142. 
Frwd Fa wr, 213. 
Funerals, 16. 
Ffynnon Asa, 131. 

Drewllyd, 209. 

Dyfnog, 201. 



350 



INDEX. 



Gaer, 74. 246. 
Games, Welsh, 18. 
Garth Ferry, 223. 
Giltar Point, 319. 
Gimlet, the, 276. 
Glamorgan, Vale of, 87- 
Glanrheidol, 52. 
Glasburv, 38. 143. 
Glenheir Waterfall, 183. 
Gloddaeth, 187- 
Glossary, 20. 
Gloucester, 31. 37- 144. 
Glvder Mountain, 104. 239. 
Glvn Neath, 33. 39. 144. 
Gnoll Castle, 241. 
Goats, 12. 
Gogarth, 187. 
Goggerddan, 52. 
GoldcliiF, 247. 
Golden Grove, 183. 

Vale, 288. 

Goodrich Castle, 145. 336. 

Court, 146, 336. 

Prioiy, 336. 

Gorphwysfa, 177- 
Gower, 312. 

Arms Inn, 257- 

Graves, Planting, 17- 
Great Orme's Head, 187* 
Green Bridge, 211. 
Greenfield Monastery, 166. 
Gresford, 147. 
Grongar Hill, 183. 
Grosmont, 148. 
Gumfreston, 319. 
Gwernalt Lodge. 143. 
Gwersilt Hall, 148. 
Gwindu, 149. 
Gwrch, 47- 
Gwydir, 204. 
Gw^therin, 166. 204. 

Hafod, 149. 

Arms Inn, 128. 

Haking, 228. 

Halkin, 249. 

Hallelujah Monument, 231. 

Hanmer, 138. 

Hardwick Cliffs, 345. 



Harlech, 25. 153. 

Harold's Stones, 324. 

Harpers, 4. 

Harpton Court, 279. 

Haverfordwest, 34. 155. 

Hawarden, 28. 158. 

Hawkstone, 300. 

Hay, 38. 159. 

Head Promontory, 162. 

Hell's Mouth, 277- 

Henbury, 76. 

Hepste Falls, 267- 

Hereford, 38. 160. 

Hesp-alun, 232. 

High Meadow Woods, 340. 

Hill, the, 336. 

Hirlas, the, 274. 

Hirwaen Furnace, 43. 

Holmes, 86. 

Holt, 161. 

Holvhead, 23. 161. 

Hoi v well, 28. 164. 

Hope, 87. 

Howel's Rock, 124. 

Hubberstone, 228. 

Hudknolls, 343. 

Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit, 140. 

Ich Dien, 94. 
Inns, 4. 

Jubilee Monument, 231. 
Julia Strata, 245. 296. 
Jumpers, 19. 

Kenarth, 170. 

Kenfig Castle and Lake, 278. 
Keventilla, 283. 
Kidwelly, 37- 168. 
Kilgerran, 35. 169. 
Kilken, 232. 
Kington, 27- 38. 170. 
Kinmel, 293. 
Knighton, 171. 
Knole Castle, 241. 
Kymin, the, 235. 
Kymmer Abbey, 135. 
Lacharn. See'lAaughame. 
Lakes. See Llyn. 



INDEX, 



351 



Lamb and Flag, 33. 1 44. 
Lampeter (town), 35. 38. 171. 

(village), 124. 

Lamphey, 252. 
Lancaut, 344. 
Landore, 311. 
Langadoc, 124. 
Langors Pool, 74. 
Lantwit Major, 299. 
Lavan Sands, 41. 65. 
Lays House, 340. 
Ledbury, 172. 
Leigh Court, 77« 
Lenny Head, 229. 254. 
Leominster, 27. 38. 173. 
Lidbrook, 337. 
Little Orme's Head, 187. 

Skyrrid, 45. 

Liverpool, 29, 30. 
Living, expense of, 5. 
Llanaelhauarn, 198. 
Llanassa, or Llanasaph, 167' 
Llanbadarn Vawr, 173. 
Llanbeblic, 95. 
Llanbedr. See Lampeter. 
Llanberis, 174. 
Llanbetbian, 122. 
Llandaff, 32. 177- 
Llandegai, 179. 
Llandegley, 259. 
Llanddewi Brefi, 172. 
Llandilo Vawr, 35. 38. 181. 
Llandogo, 343. 
Llandoverv, 35. 38. 184. 
Llandrindod, 38. 185. 
Llandudno, 187. 
Llandulas, 187- 
Llanedwen, 188. 
Llan Eglwest Abbey, 195. 
Llanelian, 188. 
Llanelly, 37- 189. 
Llaneltyd, 134. 
Llanerchymedd, 189. 
Llanfair (Anglesea), 190. 

(Montgomeryshire), 1 90- 

Iscoed Castle, 191. 

Llanfey. See Lamphey. 
Llanfyllin, 191. 
Llangadock, 192. 



Llangannoch, 198. 
Llangefni, 192. 
Llangoed Castle, 143. 
Llangollen, 22. 28. 30. 1 92. 
Llangollen Vale, 193. 
Llangybi, 277- 
Llangynog, 198. 
Llanhaiarn, 198. 
Llanhauaden Castle, 240. 
Llanidan, 199. 
Llanidloes, 26. 200. 
Llanilltyd Fawr, 299. 
Llanllyfhi, 201. 
Llanrhaiadyr, 201. 
Llanrhaiadyr yn Mochnant, 27- 

201. 
Llanrwst, 24. 28. 202. 
Llanstephan, 37- 205. 
Llanthony Abbey, 206. 
Llantrissent, 208. 
Llantwit. See Lantwit. 
Llanvaes Abbey, 66. 
Llanwnda, 142. 
Llanwrtyd, 209. 
Llan y Mynach, 27. 209. 
Llaugharne, 37- 210. 
Llawaden. See Llanhauaden. 
Llidiadau, 52. 
Lloughor, 37. 211. 
Llwybr y Cath, 290. 
Llyn Conwy or Conway, 140. 

Cowlid, 120. 

Cwellyn, 69. 

Cwmorthin, 314. 

Geirionydd, 119. 

Gwynant, 69. 

Llyniau Nan tie, 69. 201. 
Llyn Idwal, 239. 

Llydau, 69. 

Ogwen, 103. 

Promontory of, 277« 

Llvnsyvaddon, 74. 
Llyn Talyllyn, 313. 

Tarddemi, 69. * 

Tegid, 56. 

Teivy, 307- 

Teigraienyn, 313. 

y Ddinas, 68. 

y Dywarchen, 69. 



352 



INDEX. 



Llyn y Gader, 70. 

Llysfaen or Llysvan Hill, 188. 

Longtown, 208. 

Lover's Leap, 314. 

Ludlow, 212. 

Lwghor. See Lloughor. 

Lymore Lodge, 238. 

Machvnlleth, 26. 213. 
Maenan Abbey, 204. 
M aen Llythyrog, 218. 

Mordhwyd, 199. 

Maentwrog, 2*14. 
Maen y Morwynion, 74. 
Maeslough Hall, 143. 
Maes y Gannon, 231. 
Maiden Stone, 74. 
Malandina Abbey, 167- 
Mallwyd, 27- 215. 
Malpas Churcb, 246. 
Malvern, 215. 
Manorbeer, 216. 
Marford Hill, 148. 
Margam, 39. 217- 
Margaret's Island, 319. 
Marriages, 14. 
Mawddach, Fail of the, 135. 
Melincourt, 242. 
Melin Gruffytb Works, 86. 
Melte, Falls of tbe, 269. 
Menai Bridge, 23, 218. 

Strait, 223. 

Merlin's Cbair and Hill, 92. 
Mertbyr Tydvil, 33. 224. 
Middleton Hall, 184. 
Milford, 34. 227. 

Haven, 228. 

Old, 228. 

Moel Arthur, 232. 

Eilio, 70. 

Famma, 231. 

Orthrwm, 138. 



Siabod, 104. 

Wyn, 314. 

y Don, 223, 



263. 



y Golf a, 331. 

Mold, 230. 
Mona Inn, 232. 
Mine, 55. 



Monkton, 252. 
Monmouth, 31. 36, 37- 233. 
Montgomery, 27. 237- 
Monument," Mr. Warre's, 338. 
MorfaBycban, 155. 

Lodge, 326. 

Morlais Castle, 226. 
Morristown, 312. 
Morva, 52. 

Moss Cottage, 261. 344, 345. 
Mostyn Hall, 167- 
Mumble Point, 250. 
Mvnach Falls, 127- 
Mynydd Digoll, 238. 

Garreg, 167« 

Mawr, 69. 201. 

Nanneau Park, 136. 

Nanteos, 52. 

Nant Frangon, 238. 

Gwynned, 68. 

Gwrtheyrn, 199. 

Mill, 70. 

Peris, 174. 

Wynan, 68. 

y Belan, 290. 

Narbertb, 240. 
Neath, 33. 39. 240. 
Nevern, 247- 
Nevyn, 243. 
Newborough, 243. 
New Bridge, 113. 
Newcastle in Emlyn, 35. 243. 
New Hill Court, 336. 

Passage Inn, 244. 

Newport (Mourn.) 32. 38. 245. 

(Pemb.)35. 247- 

New Radnor. See Radnor. 
Newton, 247- 

Court, 341. 

Park, 181. 

Newtown, 26. 248. 
Northop, 28. 249. 

OnVs Dyke, 171. 210. 290. 
Ogmore Castle, 75. 
Ogwen Bank, 327. 

Lake, 103. 

Old Passage. See Aust Passage. 



INDEX, 



353 



Old Radnor. See Radnor. 
Orme's Head, 187- 
Oswestry, 22. 27, 28. 249. 
Overton, 249. 

Owen Glendwr's Palace, 121. 
Oxwich, 258. 
Oystermouth Castle, 250. 

Park Wells, 79. 

Parson's Bridge, 129. 

Parys Mountain, 54. 

Pedestrians, hints to, 2. 

Pembree Hill, 189. 

Pembroke, 34. 251. 

Dock Yard, 252. 

Penally, 319. 

Penalt Church, 237. 342. 

, near Machynlleth, 213. 

Penarth Harbour, 86. 

Penbedw Hall, 232. 

Pen Caer Cybi, 163. 

Pencamawr, 308. 

Pencraig, 336. 

Pendarron Iron Works, 225. 

Pendinas Hill, 52. 

Penglais, 52. 

Pen Gwerwyn, 107. 

Penmachno, 255. 

Penmaen Each, 256. 

Mawr, 23. 255. 

Pool, 133. 

Penmon Priory, 66. 

Penmorfa, 256. 

Penmynnydd, 67* 

Pennant, 198. 

Pennarth Castle, 257. 

Penny's and Adam's Leap, 253. 

Penrhyn Arms Hotel, 59. 

Castle, 274. 

Penrice Castle, 257. 

Pentraeth, 258. 

Pentre Evan, 247- 

Penybont, 27- 38. 258. 

Pen y Craig, 279. 

y Pont, 75. 

y Van, or Wale Hill, 342. 

Percelly Mountains, 106. 
j Picton Castle, 157. 
! Piercefield, 259.344. 



Pilstone, 342. 
Pimble Meer, 56. 
Pistyll Rhaiadyr, 202. 

y Cayne, 135. 

y Cwm, 140. 

Pitt's Head, 70. , 
Planting Graves, 17- 
Plas Criig, 51. 

Gwynn, 258. 

Newydd (Anglesea), 262. 

Newydd (Llangollen), 194. 

Teg, 88. 

Plinlimmon, 26. 264. 
Pont Aberglaslyn, 24. 265. 

ar Dulas, 34. 266. 

Bren, 129. 

Cysyllty, or Cysylltau, 196. 

Fallwyd, 215. 

Herwid, or Erwydd, 130. 

Neath Vaugban, 33. 266. 

y Glyn, 22. 271. 

y Monach, 126. 

y Pair, 137- 

Pontypool, 271. 

Pont y Pridd, 32. 272. 

y Von, 122. 

Pool. See Welshpool. 

Stake, 330. 

Porth Mawr, 297- 

yr Llyn, 243. 

yr Ogof, 270. 

Port Penrhyn, 273. 

Posting, 2. 

Powis Castle, 330. 

Prendergast, 156. 

Presele Mountain, 106. 

Presteign, 275. 

Priestholme, 67. 

Priory Pill, 228. 

Prix Pill, 228. 

Provisions, price of, 5. 

Puffin Island, 67. 

Pulpit Hugh Llwyd Cynfael, 140. 

Pwllheli, 276. 

Pyle Inn, 39. 277- 

Quaker's Yard, 226. 
Queen's Hope, 87. 



354 



INDEX. 



Radnor. New, 27- 275?. 

, Old, 279. 

Ragland, 32. 279. 

Castle, 280. 

Ramsey Island, 297* 
Redbrook, 342. 
Red Rocks, 345. 
Rein Hills, 94. 199. 
Rhaiadyr. 27- 284. 

Cwm Dyli, 69. 

Cynwvd, 121. 

Dolgarrog, 120. 205. 

Du, near Dolgelley, 134. 

, near Festiniog, 140. 

, near Maentwrog, 214. 

Mawr, or Gwvn, 42. 

Porth Llwyd,'ll9. 205. 

y Craig Llwyd, 255. 

y Mawddach, 135. 

y Pare Mawr, 204. 

y Wennol, 103. 

Rheidol, Vale of, 52. 
Rheola, 242. 
Rhuddlan, 285. 
Rhug, 120. 
Rhull, 286. 
Rhyd y Velin, 51. 
Riders, hints to, 2. 
Roads in Wales, 1. 
Roch Castle, 211. 
Rocklands, 339. 
Rodney's Pillar, 331. 
Rofts,'l47- 

Rosemary Topping, 338. 
Ross, 31. 37- 286. 
Ruabon, 22. 28. 288. 
Ruerdean, 337- 
Ruthin, 28. 290. 

St. Ann's Chapel, 327- 

— Anne's Lights, 229. 

— Aryan's, 

— Asaph, 28. 292. 

— Asaph's Well, 131. 
_ Briavel's, 342. 

_ Cadoc's Town, 242. 

— Catherine's Rock, 318. 

— Clare's, or St. Clear's. 34. 293. 

— David, 207. 



St. David's, 34. 294. 
_ David's College, 172. 

— David's Head, 297. 

— Dogmael's Abbey, 105. 
— . Donat's, 298. 

— Ewan's Rocks, 345. 

— Pagan's, 178. 

— Ffynnon St. Dyfnog, 291. . 

— Gowan's Cbapel, 253. 

— Julian's, 89. 

— Justinian's Chapel, 297- 

— Margaret's Island, 319. 
_ Martin's Well, 340. 

— Michael's Mount, 45. 

— Peter's Thumb, 344. 

— Quintin's Castle, 122. 

— Vincent's Rocks, 76. 

— Winifred's Well, 164. 
Salmon Fishery, 322. 

Spearing, 14. 

Sandisfoot, or Saundersfoot Bav. 

319. 
Sam Badrig, 123. 
Screnfrith Castle, 299. 
Scwd Einon Gam, 267- 

Gwlndis, or Wladis, 267. 

Seals, Isle of, 164. 
Segontium, 96. 
Seven Wonders, 19. 
Severn, source of the, 200. 
Sgwd yr hen rhyd, 270. 
Shrewsbury, 22." 27, 20. 299. 
Skerries, the, 164. 
Skyrrid, Little, 45. 

Mawr, 45. 

Slate Quarry, 179. 

Slebech, 157- 

Sledge, 13. 

Smalls, the, 298. 

Snowdon, 24. 300. 

South Stack, 163. 

Spout of the Cataract, 202. 

Cayne, 135. 

Swallow, 103. 

Scackpool Court, 253. 
Stacks, the, 254. 
Stage Coaches, 5. 
Stanley Sands, 233. 
Steam Boats, 6. 



INDEX. 



355 



Steddva Gerrig, 265. 
Steep Holme, 86. 
Stone of Sketty, 258. 
Strata Florida Abbey, 306. 
Striguil Castle, 308. " 
Sugar Loaf Mountain, 44. 
Swansea, 33. 37- 308. 
Swelly Rocks, 263. 
Svchnant, 121. 
Symond's Yat, 338. 

Table Mount, 340. 
Taff, Valley of tbe, 32. 

's Well, 86. 

Taiiesin's Grave, 53. 
Talyllyn, 313. 
TanyBwlch, 24. 314. 

yr Alt, 325. 

Teivy Lake, 307- 
Tenby, 34. 37- 314. 
Thornwell Woods, 345. 
Tiddenbam Rocks, 344. 
Tintern Abbev, 320. 344, 
Ton, tbe, 284." 
Tours, plans of, 22. 
Tower, 231. 
To wvn (Caern.) 326. 

"(Merioneth.) 323. 

Traeth Back, 327- 

Mawr, 326. 

Travelling, mode of, 1. 

Trecastle, 35. 323. 

Tredegar Park, 246. 

Trefriw, or Trevriw, 205. 

Tregaron, 324. 

Trehowel, 142. 

Trelech, 324. 

Tremadoc, 25. 325. 

Treowen, 236. 

Tretower, 124. 

Trevecca, 75. 

Tre yv Cairi, 199. 

Tri-crug-hill, 43. 

Trivaen, or Trifen, 104. 239. 

Troy House, 236. 341. 

Tutbill, 96. 

Tutshill, 344. 

Twelve Apostles, 344. 

Twll Dii, 239. 



Twrch, Cascade of the, 57. 

Ty Gwyn, 91. 

Tyn y Maes, 23. 28. 327- 

Usk, 32. 328. 

Vaga Cottage, 341. 
Vale of Aeron, 43. 

Beavers, 238. 

Clarach, 51. 

Clwyd, 292. 

Conway, 119. 

Dee, 22. 193. 

Dyflas, 313. 

Dysyni, 323. 

Edeirnion, 121. 

Ewias, 206. 

,■ Glamorgan, 87- 

Llangollen, 193. 

Mochnant, 202. 

Neath, 33. 

Rheidol, 52. 

Rontha, 273. 

Taff, 32. 

Towey, 35. 

Troggy, 101. 

Usk, 36. 

Valle Crucis Abbey, 195. 
Vortigern's Valley^ 199. 
Vronvaith, 52. 

Wales, General Description of, 8. 
12. 

, History of, 9. 

, Remarks on, 6. 

, Tours in, 22. 

Walford, 336. 

Walking, 2. 

Water Break its Neck, 278. 

Waterfall of Aberdulas, 242. 

Benglog, 239. 

Cayne, 135. 

Cleddau, 242. 

Crooked, 267. 

Cynfael, 140. 

Dol-y-Melynllyn, 134. 

Dovev, 215. 

_ Dyflas, 313. 
Frwd Fawr, 213. 



356 



INDEX. 



Waterfall of Fyimon Asa, 131. 

Hepste, 267. 

Ladv's, 267- 

Llech, 270. 

Lloughor, 183. 

Mawddach, 135. 

Melincourt, 242. 

Melte, 269. 

Mynach, 127. 

Ogwen, 239. 

Purthen, 267- 

Rhaiadyr, 202. 

Rheidol, 128. 

Scotenogam, or Scwd Einon 

Gam, 267- 
Scwd Gwlndis, or Wladis, 

267- 

Scwd Rhvd, or Svcrhyd, 268. 

Scwd vr'hen Rhvd, 270. 

Twrch, 57. 

Velenrvd, 214. 

Water Break its Neck, 278. 

Also see Rhaiadyr. 

"Waterloo Bridge, 70. 

Watt's Dyke, 289. 

Welsh, Character of the, 7, 8. 

, Dress of the, 9. 

Bicknor, 337. 

Pool, 27. 329. 

Whitebrook, 342. 
White Castle, 46. 
Whitechurch, 125. 



Whitsand Bay, 297- 
Whittington Castle, 249. 
Wilton Bridge and Castle, 288. 

335. 
Windcliff, 261. 
Winifred's Well, 164. 
Wolf's Castle, 69. 
Wonastow House, 236. 
Wonders of Wales, 19. 
Worcester, 27. 38. 331 . 
Wrekin, the, 300. 
Wrexham, 28. 332. 
Wye, the, 31. 200. 

, Description of the, 334. 

Seal House, 342. 

Wvnastow. See Wonastow. 
Wynn Stay, 289. 

Y Maen hir, 99. 
Ynvs Enlli, 60. 

Halen, 162. 

Hettws, 177. 

Seiriol, 67- 

y Moel Rhoniaid, 164. 

Yr Alltwen, 52. 
Yspytty Kenwvn, 130. 
Ystradfellte, 270. 
Ystrad Flur Abbey, 306. 

Meirig, 308.' 

y Vodwg, 273. 

Y Vanner Abbey, 135. 



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